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magic_wizard
02-06-2004, 07:39 PM
Installation of the CDT's in my civic is gonna **** (I knew that before I got them), so I'm thinking about just putting them in kicks. Has anybody here made kicks for 6.5 and tweeter? Are the speakers too big? I plan on ordering kicks from kickpanels.net. Will be cheaper than getting them installed in the door, I think, and will prolly sound alot better.

BBHP13
02-06-2004, 09:54 PM
If you go to the fiber glass section, one of the pages is exactly what you are trying to do. Same car and it looks like the same CDT's you are talking about. Check it out.

magic_wizard
02-07-2004, 01:07 PM
If you go to the fiber glass section, one of the pages is exactly what you are trying to do. Same car and it looks like the same CDT's you are talking about. Check it out.

I don't know if it was the same one or not, but the one I saw was for a 5 1/2. Anyways, I looked on other boards, and it seems like it will work out.

sumone
02-07-2004, 04:16 PM
q-logic makes some...see if they have your car model. if they don't have your make/model, you can get the universals, however, they need a flat surface to mount to; if you don't have a flat surface...you have to fiberglass a mold to serve as the base of the kick panel.

Acidburn
02-08-2004, 12:40 AM
the sticky in the fiberglass section of this site is very useful, step by step procedure

sumone
02-08-2004, 04:38 PM
also think about the weather. I know here in chicago we're getting about 20 something degrees (Fahrenheit); don't you have to be in a warm (well, not warm, but not cold), ventilated area? That's the only reason I'm not gonna at least try making some until spring maybe (cause when I do make them I'll be out on the street...no garage)

Pete
02-13-2004, 01:15 AM
Magic Wizard - I put CDT HD62's in the factory door location in my 95 civic awhile ago and they just BARELY fit if you make a baffle out of 3/4" MDF (use the plastic stock brackets to start your pattern). So it can be done. I am making kicks for it soon too... so I can maybe help you with that too.

-Pete

sumone
02-13-2004, 01:45 PM
Magic Wizard - I put CDT HD62's in the factory door location in my 95 civic awhile ago and they just BARELY fit if you make a baffle out of 3/4" MDF (use the plastic stock brackets to start your pattern). So it can be done. I am making kicks for it soon too... so I can maybe help you with that too.

Yo, you got any pictures of how you did that? I'm thinking of doing that with my cl-61s til I try to make some kick panels. if you look at my gallery, you can see how ugly and incoveniently mounted they are right now

Pete
02-13-2004, 02:03 PM
I don't have any pictures of it, no.
But if you take the door panel off you should see a plastic baffle that the factory speakers are screwed into. What you want to do is use those as a template to basically cut a spacer out of MDF that gets screwed into the door where the plastic pieces were origionally.

Then you just added a little over 3/4" to the mounting depth and it should still fit inside the door panel.... I can't say for sure how it will work on the new bodystyle civics, but if that doesn't work then kick panels are the way to go.

Also, if the fiberglassing is done in a heated garage (at least somewhat warm) it will work fine it doesn't matter what season the work is done in.

You should let us know which shop gave you the bullshit answers and service to try and save some of the other people that live around your area the headache of going through the same ordeal.

sumone
02-14-2004, 12:33 PM
Also, if the fiberglassing is done in a heated garage (at least somewhat warm) it will work fine it doesn't matter what season the work is done in.

If I'm on the street fiberglassing, what temperature/weather conditions do you feel are ideal? (e.g. 60-70 degrees F with low humidity, etc)


You should let us know which shop gave you the bullshit answers and service to try and save some of the other people that live around your area the headache of going through the same ordeal.

well, it's in chicago - the corner of western & foster. don't wanna say the name; just cause I'm not satisfied, there may be other customers that they have satisfied...

Pete
02-14-2004, 07:51 PM
summone: anywhere from 55-80 degrees or somewhere around there will be fine for fiberglassing. If its pretty cold out, just use a little more hardener and if its really hot use a little less.
Humidity really doesn't matter because fiberglass doesn't "dry" its a chemical reaction that uses the heat to cure the mixture, just like bondo.

Also, you really only need to do the work in your actual car right at the beginning and the end, so if you can use a warmer garage for those stages you should be able to do the sanding and bondo work in the basement.

sumone
02-14-2004, 09:34 PM
Also, you really only need to do the work in your actual car right at the beginning and the end, so if you can use a warmer garage for those stages you should be able to do the sanding and bondo work in the basement.

So first I do the actual fiberglassing part on the car, wait for it to harden (couple hours?), then I can go remove the molds and go anywhere and do the rest?

Also, no basement...not even a parking lot...we (me & my fam) live on the top floor of a 3-flat in a rough neighborhood

Finding a garage is gonna be kinda hard too...I'm the only one in my circle of (tite/close) friends with a car, and the rest of my fam ain't that rich either...

Pete
02-16-2004, 10:08 AM
Yeah you just need to fiberglass the base and let that dry then do most of the rest outside of the car. Take a look here http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=38665 you can see where he is working in the car and where it is just anywhere.... but be warned fiberglassing has a STRONG smell so you might not want to do it in the house.

The CDT midbass had a really good sound even when they were in the doors in my car you might want to check and see if they will be easier to install there in your case, I just wouldn't recommend factory tweeter placement (if your car already has them).

Maybe one of your friends or their relatives have a place for you to work on your car underground garages in apartment building work pretty good too, just keep asking around.

sumone
02-16-2004, 02:57 PM
I've heard having them in kick panels is supposed to give the best performance, so I guess I need an opinion on what I should do:

1. Try to get the midrange/woofer driver in the door, with the tweeter surface mounted on top of the dash (my a-pillars or whatever they are, are heat vents). My car doesn't have an additional tweeter hole (all I have is one 4x6 hole in each door). But am I sacrificing imaging by 1) having the woofer & tweeter that far apart 2) having the woofers face each other in the door and the tweeter correctly aimed, or does it not make a big difference?

2. Build some kick panels

3. Do #1, then do #2 in a couple of months

Pete
02-16-2004, 10:12 PM
#1 should be pretty easy to do,you could even mount the tweeters on the door panels as well, but up higher would probably sound better. You probably only need to cut two spacers (1 for each door) and use the factory wiring going into the door for now (its a pain in the *** to run wires into civic doors) to connect the midbass to the crossover.
then play around with tweeter placement and different settings until it gets warmer and then you will know better what you want to do or what you want to change about how it sounds.

sumone
02-18-2004, 09:25 PM
...I don't know if you've realized this but I'm not the original poster...I have a 2000 malibu. (just in case)

but, ok; I'm gonna go the route of trying to do the mids in the door with spacers or whatever they are.

1. how do I make it so that it gives me more mounting depth, cause I've measured with the windows down and I'm gonna need a little over an inch in addition to the current depth available. mdf is only up to 1"? doesn't that mean I have to build a small box with a hole in one face for the speaker?

2. do I have to drill? cause what's there already is black plastic...isn't screws in plastic a bad idea?

3. any resources/guides/tutorials on how to do this? (I've found some sites already, but I like having multiple resources. Like this one thread on another forum a guy was putting 8inch subs but I doubt this procedure is of that magnitude)

Pete
02-18-2004, 10:59 PM
Before you start doing this double check to make sure the driver won't be sticking out of the door so much that it starts pressing against the inside of the door panel.
If you have enough room there then you can either cut matching pieces out of 1/2" mdf and screw the first one on the door then glue and screw the second one to that and then attach the speaker.

The mdf piece you will need to make should be pretty easy, first measure and draw out the hole the speaker goes into and then look at the door and look at the door itself to make shape that is mostly flat and provides enough room all around the speaker for you to mount everything without it splitting.

If you send me a picture of your door with the panel off I can maybedraw something up for you.
Also take off the plastic that the factory speaker was mounted into, that might clear up a little more space.

sumone
02-20-2004, 12:17 PM
I think I'm gonna have to cut out the factory grilles cause I think the speaker will most-likely press against them. Don't have a problem with that cause the shop that installed those qforms on my door basically f*cked them up anyway drilling holes in them. (basically the qform is screwed onto the outside of the grille...lol)



. . . and look at the door itself to make shape that is mostly flat and provides enough room all around the speaker for you to mount everything without it splitting.

not sure what you mean...


If you send me a picture of your door with the panel off I can maybedraw something up for you.
Also take off the plastic that the factory speaker was mounted into, that might clear up a little more space.

Yea I'm gonna try and take some pics today, but it was raining earlier today so I'm gonna wait til stuff dries up a little. the black plastic is like part of the whole door though...or maybe not...haven't looked at my door with the panel off that closely; guess I'll just wait and see when I take those pictrues.

sumone
02-21-2004, 08:59 PM
here's (http://www.geocities.com/xxinfamisxx/door1.html) some pictures of my door off...

Pete
02-22-2004, 07:16 PM
first off... I would make the shop that installed the qforms pay to fix the door panels (most likely replace them completely) what they did to your doors is completely unacceptable by any standards I have encountered.

secondly, look at the picture that is the 4th down from the top what you need to do is cut out a piece of mdf roughly the same shape as the black plastic and attach that to the door then attach the speaker to the mdf spacer.

sumone
02-23-2004, 02:47 PM
I'm not getting it: why do I cut out the same shape? the shape that's there is for 4x6s and this is a 6.5 speaker. This hits a bulb: I'm gonna take off my door again and see if this speaker can fit in that hole that's already there...something I should've done all along.

Pete
02-23-2004, 04:29 PM
the outside shape of the mdf will be roughly the same shape as the plastic piece, but the whole in the middle is cut to fit your new speaker.

sumone
02-29-2004, 10:18 PM
update:
I finally just got rid of those q-logic kick panels on the door at times the tweeter'll be just hanging by the wire cuase they didn't glue it good enough or something, the speaker grilles would come off when you close the door, the rattling is now untolerable, and it's just a pain (also it turns people off - cause the outside looks pretty clean...then...you see the doors...lol)

so, back on topic:
- the speakers require 2 and 7/8 inches of mounting depth

- the total distance between the inside of the door's speaker grille and the window is about 3 1/8 inch

- the furthest I can put the speaker in without hitting the window is about 2 and 3/8 inches

- therefore to achieve this ^ max depth, there needs to be at least a 2 7/8 - 2 3/8 inches = 4/8 = 1/2 inch piece of wood.

- that leaves 3 1/8 - 2 7/8 inches = 3/8 inches for space between the door grille and the top frame of the speaker.

if all of this is right / pretty accurate, that means the max excursion for it must be less than 3/8 inches for it not to hit the door grille....that's where the problem arises - I know for a fact that it can go greater than that.

possible solutions:

1. cut out the grille; problem: the grille is about 8 inches long by 5 inches height at max points. the speaker is 6.5 inches circumference.

2. cut out the grille *where necessary*, place speaker outside of grille but mounted to the mdf that's attached to the door. then use the cdt-supplied grilles on the outside. (note: anyone notice that the grilles cdt supplied don't fit??? or is it just me - the part of the grille you screw into has a larger diameter than the speakers)

so, does the picture I attached seem like it'll be a good idea? the black circles/dots things are screws...lol

tobz
03-07-2004, 10:15 PM
Just to let you know, I have CDT CL-61's. I have the 6.5" in the door of my stratus (facing each other, obviously), and I have the tweeters temporarily mounted on my dash with double face tape, in the corner of the windshield and the A pillars. It sounds incredible. I haven't heard much for high quality systems... But my system by far has the best imaging out of my friends'.

Just my 2 cents 4 ya.

T.J.