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View Full Version : Whats the best box config for a wagon???



O.G. D-Wet
05-21-2010, 02:36 AM
I'm guessing subs up, port back, top of box on/below window line...
Also... how should I arrange subs? I want to do 4 15s but not sure how I should arrange them... I don't know whether to cluster them in the back to fire into the rear window or put 2 in the very back and kinda spread the other 2 foward... does any of this make a difference?
1) Clustered in the rear ;)
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/OG_D-Wet/Crystal%20box%20design/111.jpg
2) Spread out a bit
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/OG_D-Wet/Crystal%20box%20design/112.jpg
3) [Top of enclosure] Sub and Port up
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/OG_D-Wet/Crystal%20box%20design/113.jpg

O.G. D-Wet
05-21-2010, 03:08 AM
Bumpity bump bump! Havent bought the car yet... also lookin at a Ford Aspire but A) I hate Ford and B) It's an Aspire and has an a$$load of miles on it :/ (CRXs are hard to come by for cheap round here)

O.G. D-Wet
05-21-2010, 09:35 AM
to the top!

JimJ
05-21-2010, 09:38 AM
Best for what?

I Like Waffle
05-21-2010, 09:55 AM
Probably subs up port back, or subs back port back. In mine subs up port forward is loudest though.

hispls
05-21-2010, 10:08 AM
Wall build FTW

O.G. D-Wet
05-21-2010, 03:08 PM
Wall build FTW

lol eventually when I have more $$$ and better subs :D
So I guess I should build the box subs up port back and turn it around and see if its any louder w/ ports firing foward?

O.G. D-Wet
05-21-2010, 03:44 PM
Any other ideas/input?

O.G. D-Wet
05-22-2010, 11:00 AM
???

O.G. D-Wet
05-22-2010, 06:28 PM
Ttt

subzero
05-23-2010, 01:43 AM
Mang, just build something and see. If you want loud then try to get MAXIMUM air space and MAXIMUM port flow tuned Properly and you should be loud.

HOWEVER, you need to apply POWER> What amps are you using and how is the electrical system in your car? You never even mentioned the subs. on the real... start posting up some details otherwise your ganna get put in "Fail" mode.

dasinde91
05-23-2010, 01:48 AM
If you are doing ssnw try 2 different designs.
1. try 2 facing forward 2 on top ports external firing back.
2 try only 3 woofers all 3 firing forward & ports firing back.

Hope this helps.

AudioDave
05-23-2010, 05:02 AM
Our wagon was walled.

But the idea # 2 you said about spkrs firing forward and ports to rear is what my son is doing in the Blazer. So its a wall, but vented to rear with a baffle going completley around the wall on top to the front along the roof. This "other wall" will have the tuning in it as well. Also we may mount the amps etc on the rear wall in a showcase with venting so that each time the bass hits, it sends the airflow in thru the case cooling them as well. See pic...

O.G. D-Wet
05-23-2010, 02:23 PM
Mang, just build something and see. If you want loud then try to get MAXIMUM air space and MAXIMUM port flow tuned Properly and you should be loud.

HOWEVER, you need to apply POWER> What amps are you using and how is the electrical system in your car? You never even mentioned the subs. on the real... start posting up some details otherwise your ganna get put in "Fail" mode.


If you are doing ssnw try 2 different designs.
1. try 2 facing forward 2 on top ports external firing back.
2 try only 3 woofers all 3 firing forward & ports firing back.

Hope this helps.

If I decide on this wagon, it wont really be built for competition but if it was it would probably be Stock1 (not sure if theres a limit on subs in that class as I've never competed before)
I'll most likely have 1 bat under the hood and 1 or 2 in the rear
HO alt and double or quadruple 0awg power and ground run
4 15" CrystalMobileSounds cSe subs
not sure on amps yet but will probably be putting a clean 3,000w @1ohm

Still trying to decide on whether to do 4 15s in the wagon or do a trunkbuild in a Metro w/ like 2 12s or 2 10s

Rawr-DQ
05-23-2010, 04:35 PM
This is merely to help illustrate a concept and is not accurate.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p254/Totalnewbie007/bswave.jpg

Basically the Port will produce a wave that is 90/180 degrees or so ( I cant remember, it may be different) out of phase with the front wave of your speaker.
When that wave combines with the front wave it may be off axis with it, producing a stronger or weaker wave depending on when it combines. If you combine the wave 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, full wave (and in between), you can gain output of the speaker. full being the highest efficiency. To calculate this you need to be able to calculate the speed of sound and then measure the length the port wave will travel until it meets the front wave of the speaker. Honestly, I dont know who even does this. Your best bet is to make a box and move it untill it sounds louder or quieter. The moisture and temperature of the air affects the speed of sound, and I only tried to calculate this to design a Transmission line, which also factors in the FS of the speaker and I don't fully understand the underlying physics of these concepts. Go get the loudspeaker design cookbook and take a read of that, I had a copy but lost it.

O.G. D-Wet
05-23-2010, 05:06 PM
This is merely to help illustrate a concept and is not accurate.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p254/Totalnewbie007/bswave.jpg

Basically the Port will produce a wave that is 90/180 degrees or so ( I cant remember, it may be different) out of phase with the front wave of your speaker.
When that wave combines with the front wave it may be off axis with it, producing a stronger or weaker wave depending on when it combines. If you combine the wave 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, full wave (and in between), you can gain output of the speaker. full being the highest efficiency. To calculate this you need to be able to calculate the speed of sound and then measure the length the port wave will travel until it meets the front wave of the speaker. Honestly, I dont know who even does this. Your best bet is to make a box and move it untill it sounds louder or quieter. The moisture and temperature of the air affects the speed of sound, and I only tried to calculate this to design a Transmission line, which also factors in the FS of the speaker and I don't fully understand the underlying physics of these concepts. Go get the loudspeaker design cookbook and take a read of that, I had a copy but lost it.

HOLY ****! Are all those colorful lines all the DEEBEEZ surrounding the vehicle?!?!?! If so, ur design is magnificent! lol j/k yea, I always cringe when I see someone port opposite of the driver cuz I've only heard bad thingz about it... But whats-his-face had 2 L7s and aeros firing out the asss of his box and he was getn good numbers... I forget who it is but he has a build thread of his CRX... Maybe I should stick to the trunk car... less weight, easier build, cheaper 1st phase, gas saver, etc...

AudioDave
05-24-2010, 06:07 AM
This is merely to help illustrate a concept and is not accurate.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p254/Totalnewbie007/bswave.jpg

Basically the Port will produce a wave that is 90/180 degrees or so ( I cant remember, it may be different) out of phase with the front wave of your speaker.
When that wave combines with the front wave it may be off axis with it, producing a stronger or weaker wave depending on when it combines. If you combine the wave 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, full wave (and in between), you can gain output of the speaker. full being the highest efficiency. To calculate this you need to be able to calculate the speed of sound and then measure the length the port wave will travel until it meets the front wave of the speaker. Honestly, I dont know who even does this. Your best bet is to make a box and move it untill it sounds louder or quieter. The moisture and temperature of the air affects the speed of sound, and I only tried to calculate this to design a Transmission line, which also factors in the FS of the speaker and I don't fully understand the underlying physics of these concepts. Go get the loudspeaker design cookbook and take a read of that, I had a copy but lost it.

lol?

Rawr-DQ
05-24-2010, 06:51 PM
You're a smart guy

T3mpest
05-27-2010, 12:57 AM
whether a port and woofer are in and out of phase depends on frequency. They are out of frequency 180 degrees at tuning, that's why the cone barely moves at tuning, it's fighting the port and the port as a result is doing all the work. Basic rule of thumb, keep woofers close together, port centered and far away if possible, same face of box. In this case, I'd put the woofers on each side of the aero, towards the front, and put the port rear facing the hatch. All on one face might not make the window line. This should sum up just fine, the back wall will load the port and drop tuning some, but alot of times that's not a bad thing for a daily driver. The box will be longer than it is tall I think, so putting the port that way allows you to make it longer with no bending required.