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View Full Version : Oh noes not another thread on how to T/A properly....no seriously thoughI searched..



way2sl0
04-27-2010, 02:22 PM
I just bought an HD942U. I see it has T/A which is why I specifically got it (how could I go wrong new for $145).

It doesnt do Left / Right seperate as far as I can tell, thats the Excelon models only. In that respect, how would I properly delay/TA my fronts/subs if they are grouped? I don't run rear fill and here is my setup.

My car isn't big, its a Saturn SC2.

I have Energy 6.5 Components in the front (they are made my Klipsch), off a Dual XPA4100 bridged getting 150w a piece.
Sub is an RE SRx 15 3.65cuft @32hz @ 600 rms/2ohms Alpine Mrp-m650.

T3mpest
04-27-2010, 03:33 PM
I just bought an HD942U. I see it has T/A which is why I specifically got it (how could I go wrong new for $145).

It doesnt do Left / Right seperate as far as I can tell, thats the Excelon models only. In that respect, how would I properly delay/TA my fronts/subs if they are grouped? I don't run rear fill and here is my setup.

My car isn't big, its a Saturn SC2.

I have Energy 6.5 Components in the front (they are made my Klipsch), off a Dual XPA4100 bridged getting 150w a piece.
Sub is an RE SRx 15 3.65cuft @32hz @ 600 rms/2ohms Alpine Mrp-m650.

If you can only delay each set of speakers, delay the fronts assuming the sub is the furthest speaker from you. Play a test tone in the region your fronts and subs both play, usually 80hz-120 or so and then keep adding delay to the sub until you hear the 2 tones blend. you need to keep your sub at a reasonable volume to make this work, if your sub is way louder than your fronts you won't hear it. You can try it with music too, your listening for the sound to begin to sound like it's more up front.

way2sl0
04-27-2010, 05:09 PM
Yeah I understand that part. But Kenwood deck works a little different. It uses a distance calculation, and then automatically time aligns.
Here is what the manual says;
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5408/dta.jpg

way2sl0
04-27-2010, 05:13 PM
I think I understand now.

If my sub is 5.5 feet away from the "center point", and my fronts 1.2 feet, I would set the sub to 0, and the fronts to 4.3ft, right?

How exactly do you factor height into the equation though. Do measure from this hovering center point (I am guessing ear level, between left and right front seats) downwards to my mid's in the bottom of the doors? Or the tweeters in the pods.

Even furthering this, the subwoofer is pointed towards the rear of the vehicle. Wouldn't that essentially mean I would measure to the back of the trunk, then back to the box since the sound has to reflect before it starts its movement forward?

T3mpest
04-29-2010, 12:27 AM
measuring this honestly won't work very well. Cars are a modal environment and absolute distances usually don't work properly when doing t/a at least in my experience. Mids it does sometimes, subs rarely. Just keep upping the distance until you get it to blend, you can measure to get a baseline if you want. If your pointed backwards, then yeah, add the distance to the trunk lid. You may find it sounds better if you add more delay, or even subtract some.

way2sl0
04-29-2010, 11:20 AM
measuring this honestly won't work very well. Cars are a modal environment and absolute distances usually don't work properly when doing t/a at least in my experience. Mids it does sometimes, subs rarely. Just keep upping the distance until you get it to blend, you can measure to get a baseline if you want. If your pointed backwards, then yeah, add the distance to the trunk lid. You may find it sounds better if you add more delay, or even subtract some.

Thanks for your response I expected that. Front rear sub groupe T/A is still better than none. My old x889 did the same and it was a world of a difference with T/A than without so I am looking forward to getting it back.