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View Full Version : Baffling, BRacing questions



Maxipads
04-23-2010, 04:28 PM
So my box is going to be 52 wide, 23 Tall, and 14.5 Deep coming out to around 7.37 cubes. Going to have 4" wide port and 90 sq. inches in of port area. I need a Double front baffle i know that but not quite sure how to go bout that? Also how do you brace it with the metal rods? and if you brace it do you still have to baffle the box? I already ordered to BL 18 and had my local lumber yard cut the wood for me. THanks hoping my first box comes out well :D

Mr. Slate
04-23-2010, 04:32 PM
How many watts?

Maxipads
04-23-2010, 04:35 PM
I got the BL Fully loaded and since no one quite sure how i can run to it fully loaded (i have a BXi 2010d) im just going to try around 1400 and work my way up untill the cones gets hot or i smell the nasties..

hispls
04-23-2010, 04:36 PM
Doubling up the baffle will never hurt, but I find for the most part liberal bracing will do more than multiple thickness walls.

Maxipads
04-23-2010, 04:38 PM
How do you brace? just where the sub is being mounted run threaded metal rods straight through the box and bolt them down? Lol sorry if that sounds dumb i cant seem to find anything telling me exactly how to do it

hispls
04-23-2010, 04:51 PM
I usually do multiple pillars or cross pieces out of wood. Cutting 2" strips of wood and glueing/screwing them

http://www.carstereo.com/images/installs/DSC026441.JPG

Here's a pic of a wall of one of my old boxes and how I reinforced the inside.

bhsdriller
04-23-2010, 04:53 PM
I like using threaded rod, doesn't take up any space and is easy to do. Bolts on the outside and inside of box so 4 total for each rod. Tighten the bolts down real good and they sandwich the wood inbetween

best pics I have but should give you an idea
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/bhsdriller/100_1399.jpg
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/bhsdriller/100_1390-1.jpg

hispls
04-23-2010, 04:54 PM
Another pic of how I do pillars to where the subs mount:

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/hispls/DSC06207.jpg

I like the idea of threaded rod but the fact that it sticks out sometimes makes it impractical

Maxipads
04-23-2010, 04:57 PM
BHs that helps a ton but how did you get the bolt on the inside? and by 4 each that means theres a bolt showing on the front and back of the box?? that was the main concern was on how exactly to bolt the rods down.

bhsdriller
04-23-2010, 05:03 PM
Yeah there's a nut on the inside and outside of each face the rod is going through. Think about it if there's only a nut on the outside the box would still be able to flex in, the nut on the inside prevents that.

Drill the hole and put the rod in. the nuts on the inside will need to be put on next...it takes a while because you have to spin the nut to bring it to the face of the box you put the rod through

idk how to explain it but once you drill the holes and put the rod in you'll figure it out

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg137/bhsdriller/100_1387.jpg
that one you can clearly see the one on the inside

Maxipads
04-23-2010, 05:07 PM
Thats helps a ton thanks bro. if i do that i dont need double baffle?? Cause i dont really want to go through the hassle of asking the lumber co i just need a cut thats 52" and 23" tall.. Where do i put the rods exactly just where the sub is being mounted?? ALso can i just go to Lowes or Home Depot to get the rods?

bhsdriller
04-23-2010, 05:18 PM
I'm guessing the sub is going to be mounted on the piece that's 53" by 23". Eh I don't think you need a double baffle. Usually you should put the bracing on the biggest panels of wood and go from there. Get it playing and if it still flexes add more bracing accordingly.

You can also use wooden dowels which are cheaper

Home depot or lowes should have both

Maxipads
04-23-2010, 05:23 PM
Does it matter if i lay the box so the sub is firing upward so the box is 52" wide 14.5 tall and 23 deep?? Thanks a ton bro.

bhsdriller
04-23-2010, 05:28 PM
The only thing that would matter that way is if you use threaded rod on the panel the sub is mounted to. If you have the rod running up and down the box wouldn't sit level on the floor because a bolt would be sticking out the bottom of it. Get what i'm saying?

Wooden dowels would work fine that way though

Maxipads
04-23-2010, 05:33 PM
Na it wouldnt i have a 01 1500 Extended cab and i took out my rear seats and of course i have that stupid ****ing hump on the floor so im just going to put some sort of wooden or metal blocks on the floor so it will sit above it.

RAM_Designs
04-23-2010, 07:22 PM
2x4's work well too...my favorite thing to use, unless I'm close to a port or actually bracing inside a port, then I'll do a wooden dowel.

Maxipads
04-23-2010, 09:59 PM
Well im getting the cut out sheet tonight form vitveet and i already have the main pieces cut so i just need to get the hole cut for the sub and terminal then figure out how to make this port lol.. then ill see how it turns with the metal rods. Also a quick question where exactly do you put the screws in? I just glue everything down and put screws into it so it stays in place?

bosco2023
04-23-2010, 10:34 PM
I like every 4-5 inches and predrill the face plates first. Kinda overkill as the wood glue actually bonds it all together. I dont even predrill as I let the fine thread drywall screws draw into the wood slightly below the surface. I like 2.5" screws for the form and 3" for the double baffle.

Rich

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d176/Bosco2023/audio/0062.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d176/Bosco2023/audio/0092.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d176/Bosco2023/audio/0122.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d176/Bosco2023/audio/017.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d176/Bosco2023/audio/018.jpg

RAM_Designs
04-23-2010, 10:44 PM
All you need is 1-3/8 or 1-5/8 coarse thread drywall screws(orange label at Home Depot) every 8-10" to keep everything snug while it dries. Just predrill with a small bit, like 3/32, and you're set. I've never had a coarse thread screw strip on me, not once. Can't say the same for other screws...