View Full Version : My box design for an MTX Thunder 7500

12-30-2009, 05:39 PM
the specs of the box are L:26.75" W:13.5" H:13.5". THis includes the port, but the internal volume not including the port is equal to to just about 1.52ft^3 and if you take out .07 for the sub it comes to 1.45 which is the mtx recommended volume. The port size is 12x2x25.5 which is .35 inches under the recommeded length from the calculator. If anyone knows about enclosures could you let me know if this sounds reasonable. This is the second box ive made and most technical. eitherway its a learning experience. Again this is for a MTX thunder 7500 10inch subwoofer getting 400w rms power.


12-31-2009, 02:01 AM
Sounds fine, if that is what they recommend you should be ready to go. And it's not bad that it's .3" shorter (the port), it would MAYBE increase your tuning by .5 hz. Let us know how the build goes!:D

12-31-2009, 12:51 PM
well i almost have all my boards cut to size. I had to redo a couple cause i want them to be perfect. I am curious about the 38hz. the main reason i did this is because mtx had this as there spec tuning frequency. I dont know if that should be a good rule of thumb to go off of as far as choosing a frequency but i figured i cant go wrong. Im hoping to still get some low bass from this. Hopefully later today ill be peiceing this thing together. Cant wait!!!

12-31-2009, 04:30 PM
yep, good deal. let us know how it goes man. 38 hz is fine if your looking for some nice SPL

12-31-2009, 04:46 PM
and good lows :)
2.0 cf would be better IMO but 1.5 is just fine

12-31-2009, 11:52 PM
well i got a bit of it together but i ran out of liquid nails. I think i need to let these parts dry anyways before i go any further. Tomorrow im gonna put some screws in to get it solid then ill do the rest of the box. sorry the pics look a little funny i had to resized them cause they were too large. Also i forgot that i had changed the port size width to 1.5 inches and its actually tuning closer to 34 to 35hz. I had to make the changes because i didnt account for the the size of the wood for the ports. I hope this doesnt have a negative effect. As long as learn from my mistakes ill only get better.

12-31-2009, 11:56 PM
plz tell me thats not liquid nail?

01-01-2010, 12:10 AM
it is LN not as good as wood glue but it works fine i have never had a LN box fail or leak ever in my life.

01-01-2010, 12:51 AM
on1wheel01: it is liquid nails im glad you feel it necessary to let people know how bad im doing on my first real box. Hey everyone im doing a terrible job and i got someone who agrees, yay!!!

SicAudio: thanks for atleast making me feel better, your the only one helpin my confidence with this project so far. I wish someone would have told me liquid nails wasnt that great but my box is pretty solid right now so i cant really complain. I guess i will look into the would glue for the future. I was thinkin about possibly throwin some silicone in there but it really does seem tight. Tomorrow i will be throwin the screws in to really sturdy it up and put the last two peices on and cut the woofer hole and im in business. I really hope this thing turns out

01-01-2010, 12:59 AM
use screws while the LN is fresh and you wont need silicone next time use Titebond 2 it is 3-4$ for a small bottle. but liquid nails is just fine. wood glue is just that much better.
i have built thousands of boxes with LN and not 1 has ever blown apart or failed ever in 20+ years. i am confident enough that i give a lifetime warranty on any box I build and i build a shitload.

01-01-2010, 01:08 AM
I wasnt talking crap about it. For ur 1st box hell it's pretty **** good much better than my 1st build thats for sure. On mineI use tite bond 2, and then for the inside i run a bead of ln just for a extra sealant.

01-01-2010, 02:36 AM
one last que'stion, what would you recommend for spacing between screws, I wonas thinking like 1 inch or so?

on1wheel01: if you didnt intend to talk crap then i will retract my statment. what you said seemed a bit condesending which is what warrented my reaction. thanks for the kind words in your last post.

01-01-2010, 02:44 AM
no closer than 4" too many screws weakens the wood

01-01-2010, 02:58 AM
no prob budd i can see how what i said would get that reaction. and yes 4-6 inches apart like said more together and it can split and or cause weaknesses in the wood. Are you clamping the wood or just ln and then screws. Many ppl do it diff ways. When I first started I used glue and screws. Then I did glue and clamps. Now I am trying staples/brad nails and glue. Really the screws staples clamps or whatever are just holding things together until the glue or ln has time to harden and bond the wood together. Many times I have taken out the screws and filled in the holes once it is all dry(or they can be counter sank.

Oh and as for my statement so u kno there is a big big debate on here about glue and ln. Many many threads about it many use both and they both work fine. I am just on the glue side but hey if both work then they do. I myself have just had better luck with glue. Maybe on a future build try what i do. Glue on bonds then ln for the seams for a air tite seal. And looking forward to more pics. Maybe some of the vehicle sub and amp

01-01-2010, 10:11 PM
one other thing. I have a jigsaw and a dremel and i want the cleanest hole i can get for my sub. I dont want one with the little waves you sometimes get with those tools. Whats the best way to utilize the above tools to get the cleanest cut. Im sick so i have some downtown to wait for some good answers. I wanted to finish it today but oh well its pretty cool lookin at the ported section of the box i already did a test fit on the top piece of wood and it and it fit like butter, just gotta get more glue and get better!

01-01-2010, 10:15 PM
use a small board attached to the jigsaw foot and screw it loosely at ur center point and adjust as needed to get the siz u need.

01-03-2010, 11:26 AM
awsome that sounds like a great idea. WHat is the best way to attatch a board to the jigsaw