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View Full Version : My midbass *****



MrSplorDie
12-08-2009, 09:20 PM
I had my Type R 6.5 components installed today and the mid bass response ***** ***, Is it true that sealing the door and using dynomat + defelx pad will help improve my midbass response?

misfit138
12-08-2009, 09:23 PM
Nope. Components sound better with plastic baffles and holes galore...

WrenchGuy
12-08-2009, 09:24 PM
Indeed.

MrSplorDie
12-08-2009, 09:25 PM
I have a 95 Impala and there are alot of openings and holes in the door... would it be better to just dynomat the door or seal up all the holes using plexi glass?

ascitiesburn69
12-08-2009, 09:25 PM
lol yea plastic adds teh bass. :fyi:

Side Show
12-08-2009, 09:25 PM
^^ lol, sound deaden your doors and let us know what you think.... should sound heaps better

MrSplorDie
12-08-2009, 09:27 PM
I was trying to avoid this but looks like i'm going to have to do it. My stock 4x6's had better mid-bass response :(

misfit138
12-08-2009, 09:30 PM
I was trying to avoid this but looks like i'm going to have to do it. My stock 4x6's had better mid-bass response :(

Are your components amped, or are they running off hu power?

MrSplorDie
12-08-2009, 09:54 PM
amped

headless
12-09-2009, 05:23 PM
entirely likely...with more powerful drivers you could easily see a drop in perceived volume due to your door vibrating out of phase with the driver and causing massive cancellation. I noticed this when I first swapped out my rainbow germaniums for power line CS's. If the x-over was set low (60hz or under) the entire door vibrated so badly that it sounded worse than if the x-over was set to ~100hz - and not just due to buzzing and rattling - it just sounded wrong. After proper deadening and sealing of the door, they produce plenty of volume all the way down to 60hz.

MrSplorDie
12-10-2009, 10:20 PM
entirely likely...with more powerful drivers you could easily see a drop in perceived volume due to your door vibrating out of phase with the driver and causing massive cancellation. I noticed this when I first swapped out my rainbow germaniums for power line CS's. If the x-over was set low (60hz or under) the entire door vibrated so badly that it sounded worse than if the x-over was set to ~100hz - and not just due to buzzing and rattling - it just sounded wrong. After proper deadening and sealing of the door, they produce plenty of volume all the way down to 60hz.

This is the exact problem I have!! the bass just seems horrible and is just shaking the door panels!!

l7runner
12-10-2009, 10:24 PM
also type R components are know for ****** midbass I believe.

but deaden your doors and see if it helps

MrSplorDie
12-10-2009, 10:25 PM
also type R components are know for ****** midbass I believe.

but deaden your doors and see if it helps

True I read the reviews but still they should have better response than my stock 4x6's....

OZLancer
12-10-2009, 11:29 PM
also type R components are know for ****** midbass I believe.

but deaden your doors and see if it helps
my type r's do not have ****** midbass, he just needs to deaden his doors

dafobbishon3
12-10-2009, 11:31 PM
deaden doors, get mdf rings.

/thread

ejschultz
12-10-2009, 11:34 PM
Check out my small build log. I have a 94 Caprice and I deadened my doors. My midbass response is incredible from my Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS components. I deadened the entire inside of the door and most of the door frame as well. I used the deadener to go over the holes. My panels don't rattle too badly. Change your panel retainers if you haven't put new ones in.

http://caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438627

MrSplorDie
12-10-2009, 11:34 PM
deaden doors, get mdf rings.

/thread

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