PDA

View Full Version : Bi-amp my comps?



stocker08
12-01-2009, 04:11 PM
I have a set of the PPI 355cs comps and they have the option to be bi-amped. Right now, I have a 5-channel US Amps amp and I am just running each side off of one channel. My back speakers use the other two channels. My question is, how much better will the speakers sound if I set them up for bi-amp. I realize I can adjust the gain individually for the mids and the tweeters this way, but the crossovers have a tweeter adjustment knob already on the crossover so will this make that much of a difference?

Sir-Lancelot
12-01-2009, 06:56 PM
How much power are you sending them now?
Since you have 4 channels to spare on the comp set bridge your amps
1&2,3&4 and send more power to them.

stocker08
12-03-2009, 05:37 PM
My amp is not bridgable. I tried that and could tell immedietly that something was wrong. Figured since these comps have a bi-amp option on the crossovers, I might as well take advantage of that since I cannot bridge them.

Right now, the speakers are recieving 90 watts continuous. I have two sets of speaker wire running to them, so I could go active if I wanted......but I am not exactly sure how to do all the settings and my deck is a little confusing. Don't want to mess anything up.

stocker08
12-04-2009, 08:12 PM
anybody?

Sir-Lancelot
12-04-2009, 09:29 PM
I think the only benifit to bi amping them would be to have the ability to adjust the gain/level. It wont see any more power.

Too bad you cant bridge the channels.

stocker08
12-10-2009, 10:44 PM
bump

stocker08
12-12-2009, 12:29 AM
I would really like to keep my amp. Prefer not to replace it with two seperate amps or a bridgable 5-channel.

Any input? Should I just continue running my back speakers? Should I bi-amp the front speakers? Look into a new amp?

Toone
12-12-2009, 12:32 AM
I think the only benifit to bi amping them would be to have the ability to adjust the gain/level. It wont see any more power.

Too bad you cant bridge the channels.

why wouldnt they see any more power?
if you bi amp them then youll be seeing the 180 watts 90 directly to the tweet and 90 to the mid, that is if i read correctly and the ops amp puts out 90x4

Rich B
12-12-2009, 12:41 AM
Yes you can bi-amp, but be careful of the gains on the tweeters.

They dont need much power.

One other thing, if your HU can do time alignment that would be the best reason to bi-amp.

stocker08
12-12-2009, 12:43 AM
Yes you can bi-amp, but be careful of the gains on the tweeters.

They dont need much power.

One other thing, if your HU can do time alignment that would be the best reason to bi-amp.

Yeah. I have the cda-9835 so I do have time alignment. I will have to do some research on how to set that.......have not messed with it at all.

James Bang
12-12-2009, 03:18 PM
Since you have that HU and amp, you can get rid of that passive network all together.

You ca take baby steps and bi-amp first.

stocker08
12-12-2009, 04:39 PM
Since you have that HU and amp, you can get rid of that passive network all together.

You ca take baby steps and bi-amp first.

Thats what I was thinking. Start with the bi-amp and then when it warms up next spring, move towards an active system.

So, I set my **** up for bi-amping today. messed with some settings, changed my grounds. Went to drive around and had some static in my right tweeter and then the amp shut off all together. Only had it running for about 10-15 minutes and it was very hot. Anyone have any ideas what may be wrong here? I was thinking it could possibly be the new ground???

James Bang
12-12-2009, 04:43 PM
Make sure you got the jumpers set correctly on the passive xover network.

stocker08
12-12-2009, 04:46 PM
Make sure you got the jumpers set correctly on the passive xover network.

Ah, good thinking. I definetly did not check that. that could possibly cause the amp to shut off, right?

stocker08
12-12-2009, 04:54 PM
Alright, I forgot to switch the crossovers to bi-amp from the passive setting. Turned on my car.......still nothing. The amp is still pretty warm. Im hoping that if I give it a little while to cool down, it will turn back on.

Guess I should probably check my fuses too...

stocker08
12-12-2009, 05:51 PM
Should I only be using my front input rcas now that I am only running the front speakers? It wont matter if I run the mids on the front channels and tweeters on the rear channels, will it?

Sir-Lancelot
12-13-2009, 01:48 AM
why wouldn't they see any more power?
if you bi amp them then you'll be seeing the 180 watts 90 directly to the tweet and 90 to the mid, that is if i read correctly and the ops amp puts out 90x4


When sending 90w to a passive component set, the mid gets 90 and the tweeter gets 90. Each driver is already getting 90w within it's frequency range. It does not divide the power into the two drivers.

If he Bi amps each driver is still getting 90w. I do not see how it would get more power. IF I am wrong, please enlighten me. It would not be the first time I have been wrong. :D

James Bang
12-13-2009, 01:14 PM
When sending 90w to a passive component set, the mid gets 90 and the tweeter gets 90. Each driver is already getting 90w within it's frequency range. It does not divide the power into the two drivers.

If he Bi amps each driver is still getting 90w. I do not see how it would get more power. IF I am wrong, please enlighten me. It would not be the first time I have been wrong. :D
Wtf, what it seems like you're saying is that the passive xover will magically double the amps output.

azimuth
12-13-2009, 02:01 PM
Wtf, what it seems like you're saying is that the passive xover will magically double the amps output.

precision power isn't the name for no reason. if you run 4 of their crossovers in parallel, you can just run deck power to achieve 300 watts. best components ever.

Sir-Lancelot
12-13-2009, 02:28 PM
Wtf, what it seems like you're saying is that the passive xover will magically double the amps output.

That is not what I said. Since you cant read, I will say it again.

If you run 90 watts through a passive crossover, the mid gets 90w and the tweeter gets 90w IN THEIR FREQUENCY RANGE. Nowhere in my post did I say it doubles the wattage. What I said to the OP is if he bi-amps his components each driver will still see 90w.

Please enlighten me..... How that is wrong?

James Bang
12-13-2009, 03:00 PM
That is not what I said. Since you cant read, I will say it again.

If you run 90 watts through a passive crossover, the mid gets 90w and the tweeter gets 90w IN THEIR FREQUENCY RANGE. Nowhere in my post did I say it doubles the wattage. What I said to the OP is if he bi-amps his components each driver will still see 90w.

Please enlighten me..... How that is wrong?

This is where it seems like your saying the passive xover doubles the wattage.

If you run 90 watts through a passive crossover, the mid gets 90w and the tweeter gets 90w



Still assuming the 90x4 rating:

When not bi-amped. The passive xover will split that 90w between the mid and tweet.

When bi-amped, each speaker will be see 90w each independently as each speaker will need its own input and output on the passive xover.

When not using the bi-amp feature of the passive comp set, you'll just need two channels of amplification, unless you're bridging.

When bi-amping, you'll need at least 4 channels of amplification(one for each speaker), more if bridging.