PDA

View Full Version : box build help



tylork92
11-24-2009, 08:12 PM
yes i used the search function and cant find wat i need. Well i just finished cutting all my pieces. and went to go get my screws to find i dont have any more and really dont want to go all the way to town to get them but i have my liquid nails Wood and can get clamps REALLY close to home from a friend...will clamps be ok with liquid nails and clamps or do i need screws too..guess i could get screw in the morning.

IDSkoT
11-24-2009, 08:15 PM
Wood Glue is what nearly all "quality" box builders use.
For the most part, we only use screws so they act as clamps, so we can continue with the rest of the box with out stopping and waiting for that part to dry so we can use those clamps.

I haven't personally used liquid nails... but I hear it's bad quality. I think your best bet is to go into town and get Wood Glue and screws.

tylork92
11-24-2009, 08:17 PM
Wood Glue is what nearly all "quality" box builders use.
For the most part, we only use screws so they act as clamps, so we can continue with the rest of the box with out stopping and waiting for that part to dry so we can use those clamps.

I haven't personally used liquid nails... but I hear it's bad quality. I think your best bet is to go into town and get Wood Glue and screws.

would the Wood kind not be the same as wood glue?

bassman3
11-24-2009, 08:20 PM
go into town.

mobeious
11-24-2009, 08:24 PM
tightbond 2 and 1 5/8 coarse thread drywall screws

tylork92
11-24-2009, 08:29 PM
tightbond 2 and 1 5/8 coarse thread drywall screws

thanks...was wondering wat size screws too...those will be fine for double baffle too then right?

stereo dave
11-24-2009, 08:52 PM
WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !

IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!

do it once and do it right.

mobeious
11-24-2009, 09:01 PM
WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !

IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!

do it once and do it right.

actually the proper way to do it without using screws would be to lay a bead of glue down and then clamp ur piece and let dry then remove clamps.. screws are only there to hold the wood tight tell the glue drys not for structrural support

tylork92
11-24-2009, 09:04 PM
actually the proper way to do it without using screws would be to lay a bead of glue down and then clamp ur piece and let dry then remove clamps.. screws are only there to hold the wood tight tell the glue drys not for structrural support

so just using some bar clamps would be until glue is dry...ill go get Titebond tomorrow.

another question the countersink bit i have has a pilot bit on it as well but its not very long...maybe like an inch long before the actual countersink. would i need to get a regular drill bit and drill further or wat? if someone could hit me up on AIM that knows there **** plese do so........ chiodosbpb

Twisted_0912
11-24-2009, 09:11 PM
WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !

IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!

do it once and do it right.

:rolleyes: maybe if you buy boss audio or some ****

DonH
11-24-2009, 10:29 PM
i use clamps for the most part and screws. the glue is the main bonding agent here. a good wood glue like titebond II or III will work fine bro. if you can only use clamps i suggest that you use alot of them as well as 90degree corner clamps. do not i repeat do not remove the corner clamps untill the bar clamps have been removed. and make sure you let the glue FULLY dry. i dont advise not using screws but you can do it

mobeious
11-24-2009, 10:53 PM
i use clamps for the most part and screws. the glue is the main bonding agent here. a good wood glue like titebond II or III will work fine bro. if you can only use clamps i suggest that you use alot of them as well as 90degree corner clamps. do not i repeat do not remove the corner clamps untill the bar clamps have been removed. and make sure you let the glue FULLY dry. i dont advise not using screws but you can do it

y would u not advise using screws?

IDSkoT
11-24-2009, 11:04 PM
Liquid Nails Wood isn't the same as Wood Glue. LNW is probably something that is more porous that will get into the fibers of wood better. However, Wood Glue actually melds the fibers of the wood together to create a strong piece. In fact, most pieces glued with wood glue, the actual wood breaks before the glue seam does. (That is when sheared, not when linear downward force is exerted.)


tightbond 2 and 1 5/8 coarse thread drywall screws

This


y would u not advise using screws?

x2.
The only reason why not to is the likeliness that the wood might splint... but even then, a proper pre-drilled hole would work fine. Not to mention you can save quite a bit by using screws vs buying a lot of clamps, seeing how you can go a lot faster when building a box.
But if you plan on building a lot, lots of clamps is the way to go.

tylork92
11-24-2009, 11:08 PM
i use clamps for the most part and screws. the glue is the main bonding agent here. a good wood glue like titebond II or III will work fine bro. if you can only use clamps i suggest that you use alot of them as well as 90degree corner clamps. do not i repeat do not remove the corner clamps untill the bar clamps have been removed. and make sure you let the glue FULLY dry. i dont advise not using screws but you can do it

re read it

and just got back form Walmart with screws....box of 370 1 5/8 drywall. didnt have titebond tho...anybody kno of a place other than Lowes or Home Depot that sales Titebond.....perhaps Ace Hardware?

IDSkoT
11-24-2009, 11:14 PM
re read it

and just got back form Walmart with screws....box of 370 1 5/8 drywall. didnt have titebond tho...anybody kno of a place other than Lowes or Home Depot that sales Titebond.....perhaps Ace Hardware?

Oh, fail. HD and Lowes usually have it. Ace Hardware should, too.

tylork92
11-25-2009, 09:02 AM
Oh, fail. HD and Lowes usually have it. Ace Hardware should, too.

thanks...Ace hardware is alot closer to me than lowes but i need to return this **** LN too tho....guess imma go to Lowes.

dappa5
11-25-2009, 10:12 AM
tightbond 2 and 1 5/8 coarse thread drywall screws
hey as a tip use 1 5/8 " deck screws they are grey and hold mdf better / will counter sink themselves and then just sand off excess is mondo time saver plus better hold

psych0ticnemes1
11-25-2009, 10:16 AM
You could always use joinery and glue if you have a router or stacked dado blade set. That is the best way to make any kind of cabinet. Screws are unnecessary if you use joinery and clamps.

dappa5
11-25-2009, 10:18 AM
i like to dove tail lol

psych0ticnemes1
11-25-2009, 10:24 AM
i like to dove tail lol

Haha, I would love to see a subwoofer enclosure with dovetail joinery.

tylork92
11-25-2009, 10:58 AM
went out this morning and got 1 5/8s drywall screws and 2 bottles of Titebond 2...will post pics of the box when i get it together here in a lil while.

bjfish11
11-25-2009, 11:10 AM
WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !

IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!

do it once and do it right.

:confused:

If you split your wood, you are doing it wrong :fyi:

JBLCAMRY
11-25-2009, 11:23 AM
:fyi::fyi::fyi::fyi::fyi::fyi::fyi::fyi::fyi::fyi: