PDA

View Full Version : Quick! Need 15" HT sub reccomendations!



Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 02:38 PM
i've been using a 12" ED EQHS sub on my HT for a while, time to upgrade to a 15.

Not looking to spend much, and i have ~200RMS to play with. (dayton 240RMS amp)

any reccomendations?

I thought about picking up a kicker comp 15, but the frequency response is 25hz at the lowest :(

jdawg
08-29-2009, 02:47 PM
a dayton classic from parts express, or quatro

rollerdj
08-29-2009, 02:50 PM
man, if you had more power that 15" RL-p for sale in the classifieds would be a BEAST.

here to buy
08-29-2009, 02:52 PM
just buy this
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-HD-SUB15-Black-15-Home-Theater-Powered-Subwoofer_W0QQitemZ380151489686QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ Speakers_Subwoofers?hash=item5882cb6496&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

or if you're set on building your own, call paradigm and see how much they want for one of their 15 inch raw drivers.

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 02:55 PM
this is going to double as a home stereo setup for parties, so i would like to build it myself rather than just have a straight HT sub setup.

here to buy
08-29-2009, 02:57 PM
then you should do a horn loaded enclosure with a high efficiency driver.

JimJ
08-29-2009, 02:58 PM
Exodus Tempest-X.

Or Maelstrom 21" :D

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:00 PM
Hmm, i've always wanted to try to build a horn....

So, what do i need to look for in a driver that will double as HT/home stereo?
-low FS
-high efficiency

what else?

rollerdj
08-29-2009, 03:02 PM
Hmm, i've always wanted to try to build a horn....

So, what do i need to look for in a driver that will double as HT/home stereo?
-low FS
-high efficiency

what else?


i have my 18 in a T-line. does great for both movies and music. it'll deffently bring the house down. :D if you have room, try it.

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:04 PM
i have my 18 in a T-line. does great for both movies and music. it'll deffently bring the house down. :D if you have room, try it.

another issue.... i have neighbors this year... family neighbors, not college neighbors. Hense, why im not buying a crown amp and doing a much larger setup. I just need something basic at the moment, something better than the mid's in my tower speakers.:laugh:

rollerdj
08-29-2009, 03:05 PM
another issue.... i have neighbors this year... family neighbors, not college neighbors. Hense, why im not buying a crown amp and doing a much larger setup. I just need something basic at the moment, something better than the mid's in my tower speakers.:laugh:


that *****. IMO, a T-line is a much more effecient design than the others. you could probably stay with your 12's and change your box and have a huge change.

mk_
08-29-2009, 03:07 PM
AA Atlas

Flipx99
08-29-2009, 03:09 PM
Dayton Reference with BASH amp

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:10 PM
Dayton Reference with BASH amp

that was gonna be another question of mine, BASH 300 or Dayton 240 :laugh:

The bash looks dinky compared to the 240, but i read something about bash having better technology?

rollerdj
08-29-2009, 03:11 PM
i've never heard anything bad about the bash300's or 500's. IIRC, noah was using a 300 at one point in time.

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:18 PM
Dayton Reference with BASH amp

isnt the dayton reference something like 800rms?

JimJ
08-29-2009, 03:18 PM
Who cares what the power rating is...

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:20 PM
Why wouldnt i care if i am underpowering it by 500RMS?


EDIT: make that underpowering it by 200RMS? PE has two different reference models, one 500RMS, one 800RMS

JimJ
08-29-2009, 03:22 PM
Who says sending something less than its maximum power rating is "underpowering"?

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:24 PM
Power handling: 800 watts RMS/1400 watts max

unless i am missing something...

Flipx99
08-29-2009, 03:26 PM
I have the 500W bash.

I didn't read in the owner's manual where there is an issue with using a 500w amp. Anyone who says differently is a moron.

Flipx99
08-29-2009, 03:27 PM
Why wouldnt i care if i am underpowering it by 500RMS?


EDIT: make that underpowering it by 200RMS? PE has two different reference models, one 500RMS, one 800RMS

What rule says you need to match, or even overpower drivers?

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:28 PM
Now i'm just getting confused.

I didnt say there is anything wrong with underpowering a sub, but wouldnt it make sense to feed a 500RMS sub somewhere around 500RMS rather than spending more on a 1000RMS sub and only feeding it 500RMS?

JimJ
08-29-2009, 03:28 PM
800W is its maximum thermal power rating..."RMS power" if you'd like, although that's really a faulty term.

Has nothing to do with how much power you can use and still get good results from the speaker. Especially at home, you can trade off a bigger enclosure for a flatter response and use less power to reach mechanical limits.

The misunderstanding that a thermal power rating is somehow how much power you need to send the sub is why you see so many posts here complaining about blowing subs, melting tinsel leads, etc...

Supergumby5000
08-29-2009, 03:29 PM
800W is its maximum thermal power rating..."RMS power" if you'd like, although that's really a faulty term.

Has nothing to do with how much power you can use and still get good results from the speaker. Especially at home, you can trade off a bigger enclosure for a flatter response and use less power to reach mechanical limits.

The misunderstanding that a thermal power rating is somehow how much power you need to send the sub is why you see so many posts here complaining about blowing subs, melting tinsel leads, etc...

now here is a helpful post. thanks.

hayden
08-29-2009, 05:59 PM
If you really want to have fun (and build a sub that sounds good in HT and has enough output for parties) get two Tang Band W8-740's and build the TH-Spud clone. Danley definitely designed a beast. The output from one rivals my (2) AV15-Dual 18PR combos.

JP

mobeious
08-30-2009, 01:18 AM
i got a RLP