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View Full Version : What should I d o with my extra 2-channels



stocker08
07-07-2009, 08:01 PM
I just ordered a set of the PPI 355cs component speakers to replace my Rsd's and it got me thinking about the two channels powering my rear speakers. I have a few ideas of what I could do, let me know what you think.

A) Continue to give my rear stock speakers 100 watts

B) Bridge my amp to give my new comps (passive) 200 watts each

C) Create some kind of baffle to hold my 5.25" RSd comps in the rear 6x9 slot

D) Get some 6x9 midbass drivers to replace my stock speakers with

E) Replace my stock 6x9s with some nicer aftermarket 6x9s


Right now I am leaning towards leaving my stock speakers but I would like some input. What do you guys think? I was considering some midbass drivers becuase my system is kind of lacking.

energizedsbs
07-07-2009, 08:43 PM
F) Go Active

RowJoe
07-07-2009, 08:45 PM
I'd try B.

C3 Customs
07-07-2009, 09:40 PM
F) Go Active
Sounds like a good alternative.

revrider1
07-07-2009, 09:42 PM
Id say go active also, or just replace ur rears with something nice and use them there...

stocker08
07-07-2009, 09:53 PM
Yeah, I thought about going active. I even have a cda-9835, so i could go fully active if I wanted to, but I really dont know enough about about the crossovers and slopes to do it. Plus I didnt really want to run a second set of speaker wire.........im lazy.........

RowJoe
07-07-2009, 10:03 PM
That's a really nice HU.

Could the set really sound that much better by going active? I would think that the provided xover should be adequate in this particular set. Either way, I'd add the midbass drivers into your setup. Peerless SLS or Dayton RS225 would only set you back a little over $100 for a pair.

stocker08
07-07-2009, 10:08 PM
That's a really nice HU.

Could the set really sound that much better by going active? I would think that the provided xover should be adequate in this particular set. Either way, I'd add the midbass drivers into your setup. Peerless SLS or Dayton RS225 would only set you back a little over $100 for a pair.

Yeah, I was thinking that some 6x9 or 6.5" mid bass drivers in the rear would be a good use for the extra power.

here to buy
07-07-2009, 10:10 PM
do what we do around here,

set of compression horns under the hood, all the chicks love it.
fun stufffff

stocker08
07-07-2009, 10:10 PM
do what we do around here,

set of compression horns under the hood, all the chicks love it

and maybe some bass rumblers?

galacticmonkey
07-07-2009, 10:11 PM
do what we do around here,

set of compression horns under the hood, all the chicks love it.
fun stufffff

x2. Youre gonna love my nuts.

tez4life
07-07-2009, 10:11 PM
Id go with option B, Im thinking about those comps too, and im going to feed them that much power if I purchase them.

stocker08
07-07-2009, 10:15 PM
Id go with option B, Im thinking about those comps too, and im going to feed them that much power if I purchase them.

You think that giving them the extra power will improve their performance that much? I guess if i blow them I got a 3 year warrenty.......

headless
07-07-2009, 10:18 PM
B

unless you have the time and know how to do it...in which case...active.

stocker08
07-07-2009, 10:40 PM
B

unless you have the time and know how to do it...in which case...active.

I dont.

****, i might have to run some new speaker wire anyhow......I dont think the wire I have right now could handle the 200 watts........

RowJoe
07-07-2009, 11:04 PM
You think that giving them the extra power will improve their performance that much? I guess if i blow them I got a 3 year warrenty.......

Maybe. I haven't owned a bunch of sets, but the PG RSDs were one of them that truly did benefit from extra power.

What gauge wire are you running? Should be fine with 16. Please keep in mind your speakers will not always be powered by 200w. Music is dynamic.

stocker08
07-07-2009, 11:09 PM
Maybe. I haven't owned a bunch of sets, but the PG RSDs were one of them that truly did benefit from extra power.

Yeah, thats what im running right now. They are only getting 100 watts but i could give them double if I thought the speaker wire was thick enough. Unfortunetly, I think its only 16 gauge and I dont think that would cut it......

Xprime4
07-08-2009, 01:13 AM
B for sure. Headroom is the best thing for your frontstage

bass_lover1
07-08-2009, 01:59 AM
I dont.

****, i might have to run some new speaker wire anyhow......I dont think the wire I have right now could handle the 200 watts........

If you're too lazy to run speaker wire (me too most days), then don't bother going active. If you aren't going to take the time to learn what benefits there are about going active, then it probably isn't worth your time.

A lot of members here assume that by going active they found this magic cure all to their speaker woes. Active has a lot of benefits, but unless you fully understand what you can and can't do, then don't worry about it.

I'd go with bridging the amp on the front comps, if you still want rear speakers, run em off the HU.

headless
07-08-2009, 10:03 AM
16ga will be fine as speaker wire w/ 200w/side

stocker08
07-08-2009, 02:16 PM
If you're too lazy to run speaker wire (me too most days), then don't bother going active. If you aren't going to take the time to learn what benefits there are about going active, then it probably isn't worth your time.

A lot of members here assume that by going active they found this magic cure all to their speaker woes. Active has a lot of benefits, but unless you fully understand what you can and can't do, then don't worry about it.

I'd go with bridging the amp on the front comps, if you still want rear speakers, run em off the HU.


If I knew I could improve my sound by going active, I maybe even would attempt it. Unfortunetly I dont have the know how at this point in time. Once I get a newer car, I most likely will run my car to go active, but that wont be for a few years.

RowJoe
07-08-2009, 05:25 PM
I really don't know why everyone suggested to go active right off the bat, without even bothering to ask more questions about your install. Like bass_lover1 said, going active won't magically make your speakers sound better.

Sure, you can set your own xover points and stuff, but what if the passive xover was already almost optimal for your car/install? I think setting your own xover points comes in more handy when using raw drivers (Peerless, Vifa, Dayton, and many more), but that is just my opinion. There are some passive sets where going active can make a significant difference (raising the tweeter's xover point in the Pioneer 720PRS set, for instance).

If you want to learn more about going active, just search for threads on DIYMA. I've learned a bunch just by looking at older threads/posts. I've gone active with my system, but I wouldn't be against running a nice passive set. 3-way active front stage + sub is my next project, though... hopefully I'll get that killer midbass I've always wanted.

bass_lover1
07-08-2009, 05:49 PM
I really don't know why everyone suggested to go active right off the bat, without even bothering to ask more questions about your install. Like bass_lover1 said, going active won't magically make your speakers sound better.

Sure, you can set your own xover points and stuff, but what if the passive xover was already almost optimal for your car/install? I think setting your own xover points comes in more handy when using raw drivers (Peerless, Vifa, Dayton, and many more), but that is just my opinion. There are some passive sets where going active can make a significant difference (raising the tweeter's xover point in the Pioneer 720PRS set, for instance).

If you want to learn more about going active, just search for threads on DIYMA. I've learned a bunch just by looking at older threads/posts. I've gone active with my system, but I wouldn't be against running a nice passive set. 3-way active front stage + sub is my next project, though... hopefully I'll get that killer midbass I've always wanted.

I really wish people would stop saying that. Because what this leads to is people searching for like 30 seconds not finding what they want, then starting a new thread that's been covered at least 20 times. Or they'll ask a question that could have been solved by Doing It Yourself.

Not trying to be an ***, but that forum has gone to **** for this very reason.

RMF419
07-08-2009, 05:58 PM
C. Use what you have and get some mid bass to blend.

RowJoe
07-08-2009, 07:10 PM
I really wish people would stop saying that. Because what this leads to is people searching for like 30 seconds not finding what they want, then starting a new thread that's been covered at least 20 times. Or they'll ask a question that could have been solved by Doing It Yourself.

Not trying to be an ***, but that forum has gone to **** for this very reason.

My bad.

mcsoul
07-08-2009, 07:44 PM
B is OK, but 2-way active is easy; run the wire.

stocker08
07-08-2009, 07:45 PM
Yeah, a lot more reading up would be benificial to me, but there are things i need to do before even considering this. For one, I would like to sound deaden my doors. I have been reluctant to do this because the window on my passanger side goes really slow like the motors about to crap out. Also, im not sure if other peoples doors started with a plastic covering on them, but I dont really want to rip all of that off becuase Im not sure of its purpose.

stocker08
07-08-2009, 07:49 PM
B is OK, but 2-way active is easy; run the wire.


Wouldn't I lose 100 watts by going active though? I am thinking about re-running some new speaker wire now anyhow.

mcsoul
07-08-2009, 08:04 PM
Wouldn't I lose 100 watts by going active though? I am thinking about re-running some new speaker wire now anyhow.

What amp you running, 100w to each driver is plenty.

stocker08
07-08-2009, 08:06 PM
What amp you running, 100w to each driver is plenty.

I have a five-channel U.S. Amps 5500x

mcsoul
07-08-2009, 08:16 PM
I have a five-channel U.S. Amps 5500x

Good amp, run the 9835 in 3-way to the 4 channel amp section 75-100w to each mid and tweeter; ditch the 6x9's.

stocker08
07-08-2009, 08:21 PM
Good amp, run the 9835 in 3-way to the 4 channel amp section 75-100w to each mid and tweeter; ditch the 6x9's.

Well since it looks like im gonna be running new speaker wire to my doors, i could always run two sets to each door and experiment. Switch back to passive if active is not working out....

James Bang
07-08-2009, 08:35 PM
I really wish people would stop saying that. Because what this leads to is people searching for like 30 seconds not finding what they want, then starting a new thread that's been covered at least 20 times. Or they'll ask a question that could have been solved by Doing It Yourself.

Not trying to be an ***, but that forum has gone to **** for this very reason.

amen. diyma sux