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View Full Version : False floor plans and ideas.. Need plenty of opinions and inputs!



JarvisB
05-28-2009, 10:50 PM
I am going to start on this project very soon so I thought I'd start planning right now..

Here is what I wanted to do.. I did not want to sacrifice my whole cargo area so I got my sub box made to take up only half of the whole cargo space so I can have half of the space to store things or whatever..

And then I realized that I have no place to mount my kicker 2500.1 which is a fairly large amp so I decided that I would want to build a false floor with plexiglass on the other half of the cargo space in front of my subwoofer box.. (as of now my amp is sitting on my rear seat folded down (i definitely do not like it at all and I do not want to mount my amp on the sub box as well)

So I came up with this plan, see pic down below.. Just imagine as if you are looking down on my cargo space from the top.. Sorry if my drawing ******.. but hope you get an idea of what I am trying to achieve..

(rear seats is on the top of the pic, the box is right behind the rear seats.. The false floor will be on the other half of the cargo space; it is in front of my sub box, behind the trunk)
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i281/uglydimple12/sc023b1b76.jpg

I will be removing the panel in front of the sub box so I will have some more space to work with.. Normally under the panel there would be a jack and tools for replacing the spare tire.. I plan on relocating the jack to under the rear seats..

I will be removing this panel-

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i281/uglydimple12/IMG_1630.jpg

Here is what I will be working with (I will remove the jack so it will be out of the way)

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i281/uglydimple12/IMG_1632.jpg

You can see that I drew a outline frame which will be made of 3/4" or 1/2" MDF double baffled and painted black.. At the corners there will be square holes for the fans to fit into..

I want to put at least 1/2" plexiglass on top of the frame, but I plan on making the inside edges of the frame recessed so that way I can flush mount the plexiglass..

After all this, I will still be able to show off my amp and still have cargo space..

I am not sure what kind of fans should I use.. and what size?

Any inputs or better ideas?

Also, as of now, my amp is hooked up to a switch so that way I can turn it on and off since my HU's remote wire gives out constant power even while it is off.. I did not want to have a 12V supply going towards my amp to wake it up so I decided to use the wire from the HU to the switch so I am looking at .5V current, which is just enough to wake the amp up.. But now I would like to connect all 4 fans to the same switch so that way they will be turned on when the amp is on, but the problem is that the switch only got .5V supply as of now.. I dont want to make it into 12V since it would give the sub a bump when I turn the switch on, so any ideas how can I have the fans hooked up as well without having the 12V supply? I am thinking that I can just make the switch a 12V switch and then I can get some kind of a voltage reducer for the wire going to my amp so it would just be .5V while the rest is going to be 12V for the fans.. Am I making any sense?

I need help in finding/picking the proper fans for my set up.. I plan on having 2 fans on the right side blowing downwards while the fans on the left side will be blowing up wards so that way the path inside the plexi from the right to left will have plenty of air flow.. Mind you, my ZX2500.1 gets HOT after playing music for a while.. I was thinking about picking up 4 computer fans but I am not sure if it is the best idea? what kind of options do I have when it comes to fans?? Computer fans were the ones that came up in my mind.

I am definitely open to any inputs or opinions.. Criticize my plans if you have to.. I want the plan to be perfected before I start working on it..

Sorry about the long post, just wanted to have y'all filled in.

Thanks in advance!

stevew007
05-28-2009, 10:59 PM
why dont you just make a pullout drawer under your box??

JarvisB
05-28-2009, 11:01 PM
I could do that but then how do I keep inside of the drawer cool? And I do not want the box to go higher than the rear seats.. As of now, the box sits about 3 inches below the rear seats if the seats are up..

And I thought it would be cool to show off my amp and still have cargo space..

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 12:19 AM
25 views and no inputs? come on, help a fellow member out! :)

On the other forum, some suggested that I should be able to get away with just two 120mm fans since they can be noisy, but music should drown them almost immediatedly..

Also one of the guys suggested that I wont need any intake fan, I should be fine with 2 exhaust fans with intake grill

Ken448
05-29-2009, 12:23 AM
you need some heavier power/ground wires :P Those look quite thin

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 12:28 AM
Yeah I think I should be able to get away with 16 ga power and ground wire! :P

Ken448
05-29-2009, 12:37 AM
for the fans, grab some 2 or 3" computer fans, they run on 12V Should be a pretty simple/clean install. BUT I dont think Id go as thick as 3/4 on the plexy. Itll be tough to handle and quite expensive unless you are VERY confident with your skills.

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 12:45 AM
what do you mean by tough to handle?

I plan on having someone cut it precisely for me.. I want to have 3/4" plexi since I will be using this space as storage space so various kinds of stuff will be placed in this certain area so I would need the floor to be strong enough to withstand any kind of things on top of it..

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 12:54 AM
updated the OP with few more pics, hope I am clear enough for you all to understand?

Either y'all dont uddy what I am trying to do or y'all dont give **** about what I am about to do lol

smoka
05-29-2009, 01:56 AM
3/4" say 12"x24" plexi/poycarbonate is prob going to run you around $200-300.

Also it will be hard to keep clean and can scratch easy. If you do go with the plexi might want to consider making a carpeted trim piece to cover it, that way it will look good when you want to show it off.

Even with fans your amp can get really hot with the way you pictured it. You might want to consider using a material other than plexi so your amp can breathe. Like this etc...
http://www.demonkar.com/product/silver_oblong_racing_car_grill_mesh._257.asp
http://www.customcargrill.com/products.asp?cat=61

CJL
05-29-2009, 02:52 AM
First off I love false floors, im trying to figure out how i can incorporate one in my next install. Second will you f- floor idea cover up some of your port?

Are you saying if you run 12v to your amps turn on input you get the on/off thump and if you only run 5v you dont get any? May have to try that. As far as turning on amp/fans,maybe you can put a resistor on the amps side to reduce to 5v?

In you drawing,do you plan on showing the whole amp and wiring under the plexiglass? Having the plexi that big may cause strength issues with no bracing underneath it.

I always liked some of the amp showing,it looks more clean/custom to me. Maybe you can do that also and it might help you as far as strength for things to be on top of it.
Heres a rough ideas of what im thinking... Also cant wait to see the build log ;)
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/jprix82/flsfloor.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/jprix82/flsfloor2.jpg

CJL
05-29-2009, 02:57 AM
3/4" say 12"x24" plexi/poycarbonate is prob going to run you around $200-300.

Also it will be hard to keep clean and can scratch easy. If you do go with the plexi might want to consider making a carpeted trim piece to cover it, that way it will look good when you want to show it off.

Even with fans your amp can get really hot with the way you pictured it. You might want to consider using a material other than plexi so your amp can breathe. Like this etc...
http://www.demonkar.com/product/silver_oblong_racing_car_grill_mesh._257.asp
http://www.customcargrill.com/products.asp?cat=61

Here some 12"x 24" 1/2" Lexan for $36
http://www.estreetplastics.com/1_2_x_12_x_24_Clear_Polycarbonate_Lexan_Sheet_p/3003055100.htm
and 12" x 24'' 3/4" Acrylic Plexiglass for $36 also..... :confused:
http://www.estreetplastics.com/3_4_x_12_x_24_Clear_Acrylic_Plexiglass_Sheet_p/1004055100.htm


Mesh is prolly ideal but you risk things falling through. :crap:

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 11:20 AM
CJL- Many thanks for your input!

I sure do like your design.. but I would like the plexi to be a bit bigger if possible? 12" x 24" is not cutting it for me? I think I would like maybe just a tad bigger?

and no I dont plan on blocking my port at all.. my goal is to have everything flush right below the port or maybe line up to the port equally if I have to..

I am really digging your design you just made for me.. but I would like to make the plexi a bit bigger, do you think thats possible?

Also, adding resistor for the wire that goes to my amp sounds good!

P.S. holy batman, never knew that plexiglass is that expensive.. WOW! I guess I will have to ditch my original design and maybe start working around the design CJL made for me.. I definitely do not want to use mesh or anything like that since it defeats the purpose of my idea.. I wanted this space to be "store-able" which I can just throw my stuff in the back without worrying about hitting the amp or falling thru the mesh

mm0142
05-29-2009, 11:36 AM
willo the amp not fit in the area that the rear pannel is at right now the one for the jack and **** ?? just get thinner plexi and mdf to cover it and keep a slot on both sides for ventalation for the amp . mabee keep some extra carpet unter the rear seats to roll over it when you have to put something back there . as long as you have an inch or so clearance on top of the amp and a slot on both sides to let air through you shouldnt even need the fans .

06goat
05-29-2009, 11:37 AM
Yeah remember, bigger the plexi= less sturdiness.


Unless... you cut a design into the wood, which makes the plexi get more support..

Idk just an idea.

gqjeff
05-29-2009, 11:45 AM
Plexi/lexan/acrylic will scratch like hell.. It will look good for a short while then forget it.. I have had acrylic fish tanks and they scratch like crazy so the least plexi you use the better it will look long term and also you can change the panel after time. Also possible if you got some clear vinyl and put it over the plexi that might help durability????????????????

mm0142
05-29-2009, 11:51 AM
http://i42.tinypic.com/2upfqma.jpg

then just use a router and make a 3/4" lip for the plexi to sit into set depth to flush ount it and you should be good just paint or wrap in carpet and leaves you good ventalation and room for lights or whatever .

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 11:58 AM
Plexi/lexan/acrylic will scratch like hell.. It will look good for a short while then forget it.. I have had acrylic fish tanks and they scratch like crazy so the least plexi you use the better it will look long term and also you can change the panel after time. Also possible if you got some clear vinyl and put it over the plexi that might help durability????????????????
really? fu-ck that *****.. I guess I will just grab some clear vinyl to put over the plexi like you suggested..


http://i42.tinypic.com/2upfqma.jpg

then just use a router and make a 3/4" lip for the plexi to sit into set depth to flush ount it and you should be good just paint or wrap in carpet and leaves you good ventalation and room for lights or whatever .

Yeah this sounds good, your design is almost like CJL's, but I prefer to have fans than vents since fans would force some air flow while vent might not be as effective..

thank you for the idea and design

and yes I plan on using router to make a 3/4" lip and I think I would like to carpet it with the color that matches my box and interior so it would look stock but custom at same time lol..

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 12:02 PM
Also I am not sure about the floor itself or the box, should I use regular 1 inch thick wood(not sure what is it called)? or just use 3/4" MDF all around?

My goal is to make a frame that will sit on the the edges inside the panel when removed so that way it would be a bit elevated so my amp would have some room to breathe..

I think that I have about 3 or 4 inches from the bottom behind the panel to the top of panel.. so adding a frame on the edges would elevate it another inch or two.. which should be good..

gqjeff
05-29-2009, 12:06 PM
hmm just did a quick search.. Maybe worth contacting and see how thick he can get it.. Also says he does cutting also.

http://cgi.ebay.com/-mr10-lexan-SCRATCH-RESISTANT-RACECAR-GLASS-48-%22-x-32-%22_W0QQitemZ130260608261QQcmdZViewItem

gqjeff
05-29-2009, 12:08 PM
Def expensive but seems like it might be much more scratch resistant to the reg stuff. If you are going to do it do it right.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-polycarbonate-mr10-clear-37-7-8-x-31-7-8_W0QQitemZ200334895589QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defau ltDomain_0?hash=item2ea4e3e9e5&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A30

search item # 200334895589

gqjeff
05-29-2009, 12:10 PM
After finding this stuff I too am thinking of going false floor LOL...

gqjeff
05-29-2009, 12:12 PM
http://www.modernplastics.com/lexanreg-mr10112-abrasion-resistant-polycarbonate-sheet-ultramasked-p-1289.html

seems they are cheaper depending on shipping rates.

LEXAN® MR10-112, Abrasion Resistant Polycarbonate Sheet -manufactured by GE Structured Products is the authentic, world renowned, quality brand-name abrasion resistant polycarbonate product offered to you by Modern Plastics. In its colorless form, LEXAN® MR10-112, polycarbonate sheet is a crystal clear material with key properties such as excellent impact resistance, scratch and graffiti resistance.

LEXAN MR10 sheet is mar-and graffiti-resistant. It combines the impact strength of LEXAN polycarbonate sheet with a proprietary abrasion and UV-resistant MARGARD® II surface. It is warranted against yellowing, breakage, coating failure and loss of light transmission and offers improved resistance to weathering and forced entry protection. It is useful for schools, store, transit shelters and other high-traffic areas.

High-impact LEXAN® MR10-112 polycarbonate sheet can be utilized for primary glazing, or on either side of existing glazing for economical protection against breakage or intrusion. A better insulator than glass, LEXAN® MR10 sheet contributes to lower energy costs.
Other attributes of LEXAN® MR10-112, Abrasion Resistant Polycarbonate Sheet products include:

* 250 times the impact strength of glass
* Excellent light transmission
* Excellent sound abatement properties
* Superior insulating properties
* Good sound abatement properties
* Available in transparent (clear), tinted

Engineering specifications for LEXAN® MR10-112 Abrasion Resistant Polycarbonate Sheet Products:

* Tensile Strength – 9,500 psi
* Compressive Strength – 12,500 psi
* Water Absorption (24 hours) – 0.15%
* Heat Deflection Temperature @66 psi - .280°F
* Brittle Temperature -211°F
* Flammability - Horizontal Burn (Flame Spread) AEB, Value <1

Material Notes:

In order to maintain the brilliant luster of LEXAN&#174; sheet proper cleaning techniques are required. Use only approved (Modern Magic&#174; MicroFiber) cleaning cloths and our line of (Novus&#174;) polishes and scratch removers for usage on all polycarbonate sheet products. (See related products)
Important:

Lexan&#174; polycarbonate sheet products are typically sold with a plastic masking (Ultra masking). This peel off plastic covering protects both sides of the material from scratching during handling. Paper masking is available in Lexan&#174; sheet products, but not typically stocked by Modern Plastics.

mlstrass
05-29-2009, 02:03 PM
Lexan is MUCH better then plexi, but it'll still scratch over time. Best best is a piece of carpet or something to cover the cut out when you'll be hauling stuff.

CJL
05-29-2009, 06:15 PM
Now we just gotta figure out how to minimize scratches.

Maybe a couple coats of a clear coat might help with its durability? :confused:

dappa5
05-29-2009, 09:40 PM
i have 1/2" plexi very strong you can do it out of 1/2" easy if you want i can make that disign CJL drew (with much more plexi ) shipped to your door for $125 INCLUDES PLEXI AND CARPET NO FANS (just cut outs) pm me

dappa5
05-29-2009, 09:41 PM
is lexan i have 4 x8 sheet was $300 +

JarvisB
05-29-2009, 11:21 PM
i have 1/2" plexi very strong you can do it out of 1/2" easy if you want i can make that disign CJL drew (with much more plexi ) shipped to your door for $125 INCLUDES PLEXI AND CARPET NO FANS (just cut outs) pm me
PMed


After finding this stuff I too am thinking of going false floor LOL...
There you go.. lol

Thanks for trying to find a piece of plexi or lexan for me, I will def look into those stuff


Now we just gotta figure out how to minimize scratches.

Maybe a couple coats of a clear coat might help with its durability? :confused:
Not sure if that would work? I will try to do a research tonight or sometime soon to see if there is any way for me to protect the lexan or plexi

dappa5
05-30-2009, 12:10 AM
Now we just gotta figure out how to minimize scratches.

Maybe a couple coats of a clear coat might help with its durability? :confused:
two words invisble bra (no not that kind of bra)
@ the shop we install invisble bras on vehicles (clear thin and tough as h*ll)
the stuff we use is custom cut per vehicle but i'm sure you can find some @ your local sign shop http://www.invisiblemask.com/site.html?OVRAW=invisible%20bra&OVKEY=invisible%20bra&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=39677962011&OVKWID=151508389011
just gotta find un cut stock but will def work
gl:D:D:D:D

JarvisB
05-30-2009, 12:54 AM
^^ many thanks for the suggestion

this thing is new to me and now i m actually hooked to this website lol cuz i am interested in purchasing some invisible masks for my front end as i am getting some crazy rock chips lately :(

91Chevy
05-30-2009, 02:02 AM
Get 120mm or 140mm fans. The larger the diameter, the lower the RPM required to move air relatively to smaller fans.

JarvisB
05-30-2009, 09:54 AM
yeah i m thinking about getting a pair of 120mm or maybe a set of 4 of those

JarvisB
06-01-2009, 01:21 AM
Dappa5, a member here, designed me a top panel of the false floor that I am trying to achieve.. props to him..

here is the pic

http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv50/DAPPA5/flsfloor.jpg

I like it a lot.. but now I am thinking about ditching the fans since I think they kind of look out of place

Now I am thinking about asking him to make vents on the floor somehow and then I would install 2 of this Stinger Cooling Fans(click me) (http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1331967/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046) under the floor so that way it should be blowing the hot air out of the vent to keep the space under the floor cool..

what do you all think about this?

nineball
06-01-2009, 10:35 AM
since you keep changing your mind here is another possibility. this is a piece i had cut from them a few years back when i had jl subs in a suzuki grand vitara. it was used similar to your ideas only the amps were mounted between a pair of sub boxes. i can't for the life of me remember how much it cost but it was reasonable enough for me to buy it. had to be like $75 or less. it was about 2.5' tall and 14" wide if i remember right. it was cut from a clear piece of material and 3/8" thick.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/100_0880.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/100_0881.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a357/nineballots/100_0882.jpg

JarvisB
06-01-2009, 12:54 PM
thats a nice idea but i dont want to do any logos since I want to be able to switch around different subs n whatever.. so that way I can use my floor anytime and not worry about what brand am I running..

But I dont mind something like Ford logo.. we will see what happens

(I think it is gay if I decide to get Omega logo on the floor and then later I end up getting something like Fi BTL then I am stuck with Omega logo so that is why I rather not to have any logos on it besides ford logo)

Sarthos
06-01-2009, 01:22 PM
One idea to keep your amp cool, there is generally a vent in the trunks of most vehicles, I guess to prevent people from suffocating if they're locked in the trunk. If you can run a small pipe from that vent into the false floor, with a couple of fans at the front and the back, you should be able to get a LOT of cool air.

ngsm13
06-01-2009, 01:42 PM
I have a question about your port......

nG

JarvisB
06-01-2009, 02:37 PM
One idea to keep your amp cool, there is generally a vent in the trunks of most vehicles, I guess to prevent people from suffocating if they're locked in the trunk. If you can run a small pipe from that vent into the false floor, with a couple of fans at the front and the back, you should be able to get a LOT of cool air.
I could do that but I am thinking vent without any pipe will do just fine?


I have a question about your port......

nG

Yeah, my port should be blocked roughly 1/2 inch to 1 inch at the bottom, but I plan on adding 3/4 MDF on bottom of the box so that way it would be raised then the port will be unblocked..

thanks for your concern

JarvisB
06-01-2009, 02:39 PM
Also I got another question here..

I am going to have about 1 and half inch to 2 inches of clearance between top of the amp and the top panel of the false floor..

I assumed that it is plenty of space to create airflow back and forth by using fans.. So should I be ok with that much of space between the amp and the top panel?

Let me know if it is not sufficient (I think it should be sufficient tho)

ngsm13
06-01-2009, 02:47 PM
So my question is how is your port made?

nG

JarvisB
06-01-2009, 03:10 PM
huh?

the port is actually the aeros on the side of the slot port that you cant see unless you stick your head inside the port.. but then the slot port is a chamber where it becomes a compression box.. Mobeious, a member here, came up with that idea, not sure how he did that but I am very happy with this box.. It is called a compression box which is supposed to give me extra lows..

is that an answer to your question?

ngsm13
06-01-2009, 03:13 PM
Yes.

nG

JarvisB
06-01-2009, 03:31 PM
lol alright