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na_rsx
04-20-2009, 10:04 AM
Okay I have DLS components and I love them, but my headunit has a 3 way crossover, so I can run active. I would run my comps active, but their only 50rms each (mid/tweet) and my amp does 100x4 @ 4 ohms @ 12v, and I have a good electrical system. So power is a little too much for the DLS, so I was thinking about selling my comps, and getting a nice mid and tweet.

So I was on partsexpress looking at mid, and most are 8 ohm, so with my amp doing more that rated power, I am sure it can do a 8 ohm load correct? And what kind of power can I see @ 8 ohms.

I was thinking of this set, didnt see any reviews but I heard good things about Peerless:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=299-127

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_large/299-127_L.jpg

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-578

http://www.parts-express.com/images/item_large/264-578_L.jpg

cj407
04-20-2009, 10:07 AM
or you could turn the gains down on the amp and keep the comps you currently have...????

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 10:20 AM
or you could turn the gains down on the amp and keep the comps you currently have...????

I could, but really want to do something a little bit different. Thing is with my amps power, why not get a mid that can handle a good amount of power.

WrenchGuy
04-20-2009, 10:22 AM
I'd play with crossover points and see what your current setup can do.

JimJ
04-20-2009, 10:22 AM
Thing is with my amps power, why not get a mid that can handle a good amount of power.

More power is not always the solution :)

bigaudiofanati2
04-20-2009, 10:34 AM
I agree you might be very happy with your current setup after going active.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 10:35 AM
I'd play with crossover points and see what your current setup can do.

well if thats the case, then what should i set my mids and tweets to, i know the passive crossover is set at 4500, so i should start from there. i have these settings available:

front hpf and rear lpf - 1.6khz to 16khz
rear hpf - 31.5hz to 200hz

and slopes - -18, -12, -6db


More power is not always the solution :)

True

FoxPro5
04-20-2009, 11:04 AM
Okay I have DLS components and I love them, but ... power is a little too much for the DLS, so I was thinking about selling my comps, and getting a nice mid and tweet.

You love your speakers because you have too much power? And the solution to this problem to get rid of them and buy something "nice"?


so with my amp doing more that rated power, I am sure it can do a 8 ohm load correct?

Your amp will never be happier.


And what kind of power can I see @ 8 ohms

Basically irrelevant.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 11:13 AM
You love your speakers because you have too much power? And the solution to this problem to get rid of them and buy something "nice"?



Your amp will never be happier.



Basically irrelevant.

I love my speakers because being passive the still sound amazing, but of course active is always better, just requires more work. And ED amps are underrated and always go more power.

So running 8 ohms is okay, i noticed some of the mids are 6 ohms, so either way it will work.

Whats with the last comment

RowJoe
04-20-2009, 11:31 AM
Anyone know how those HDS woofers fare versus the CSX 6.5" on PE?

bass_lover1
04-20-2009, 11:44 AM
CSX was the older car version I believe, before Peerless made the HDS.

I've used these mids before, for about two years actually. Fantastic mids, especially at that price. Midrange is excellent and usable to about 3.2kHz, midbass was fair but could play down to 63hz, needed some EQ to get some output, however.

It's irrelevant, because generally 8ohm drivers are more efficient.

If you have a 4 ohm speaker rated @ 2.83V and an 8ohm speaker rated at 2.83V, the 4 ohm driver is actually getting 2 watts, where the 8 ohm is only getting 1. If they are rated say at 90db @2.83V the 8ohm driver is more efficient, because it only takes 1 watt to have that efficiency. Since everyone says that doubling power is a theoretical 3DB gain, then the 4ohm driver would only be rated @ 87DBs @ 1 watt, instead of 90@ 2 watts.

RowJoe
04-20-2009, 11:47 AM
I JUST got some Mach MLI-65s... but dang these HDS woofers look hella nice and they're cheap. Hmm...

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 11:49 AM
CSX was the older car version I believe, before Peerless made the HDS.

I've used these mids before, for about two years actually. Fantastic mids, especially at that price. Midrange is excellent and usable to about 3.2kHz, midbass was fair but could play down to 63hz, needed some EQ to get some output, however.

It's irrelevant, because generally 8ohm drivers are more efficient.

If you have a 4 ohm speaker rated @ 2.83V and an 8ohm speaker rated at 2.83V, the 4 ohm driver is actually getting 2 watts, where the 8 ohm is only getting 1. If they are rated say at 90db @2.83V the 8ohm driver is more efficient, because it only takes 1 watt to have that efficiency. Since everyone says that doubling power is a theoretical 3DB gain, then the 4ohm driver would only be rated @ 87DBs @ 1 watt, instead of 90@ 2 watts.

Ah, I am totally new to active, so your saying you have this specific mid, or something similar!

bass_lover1
04-20-2009, 11:52 AM
Ah, I am totally new to active, so your saying you have this specific mid, or something similar!

I used to use them. Pulled them when I went 3-way because I wanted more ouptut down low (below 50hz) and these couldn't do it.

However, in a 2-way stage, a nice large format tweeter, mated with these would be a nice combo. I say large format, because you want something that can play down to your crossover point, without breakup; or possibly below your x-over point.

The Vifa XT25 (large formats) are an excellent choice, but they need to be completely on axis for good response.

James Bang
04-20-2009, 12:24 PM
is there something specific that you'd like to achieve by going active?

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 12:47 PM
well according to my headunits manual, i think i can run a 3 way active system, like a tweeter, midrange and midbass.

since it has front hp/rear hp and rear lp, and subwoofer controls, my friend told me 3 way includes the sub controls, but the manual has 4 total. hmmmmm

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 12:49 PM
is there something specific that you'd like to achieve by going active?

Better overall sound, i mean active is always better than passive from what i read and learned. and a mid and tweet is under $30, well from the 2 i chose. so if i blow one it will be easier to replace than finding a new dls mid.

bass_lover1
04-20-2009, 12:54 PM
That unit was meant to run 2-way + sub.

There's nothing inherently special about running active. Yes you do get to pick your own drivers, but you should want to go active for more than just that.

James Bang
04-20-2009, 01:08 PM
^^What he said^^


Better overall sound, i mean active is always better than passive from what i read and learned. and a mid and tweet is under $30, well from the 2 i chose. so if i blow one it will be easier to replace than finding a new dls mid.

depending on who is behind the wheel, active is not always better than passive.

It would be nice if you elaborate on the "better overall sound" thing.

James Bang
04-20-2009, 01:10 PM
also, one thing I'd like to add:

when running active, it's best not to do so with scissors.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 01:15 PM
That unit was meant to run 2-way + sub.

There's nothing inherently special about running active. Yes you do get to pick your own drivers, but you should want to go active for more than just that.

Really, well I will turn on the active feature and see what options i had, from what i read in the manual, the sub filters are under a different menu. when the crossover is activated, i get 3 more options under a different menu, which has fron hp, rear hp, and rear lp.

but if thats the case then the rear lp will be the sub, then the front hp and rear hp will be the mid and tweet.


^^What he said^^



depending on who is behind the wheel, active is not always better than passive.

It would be nice if you elaborate on the "better overall sound" thing.

More detailed and cleaner, my headunit does not have any front/rear hp controls, like my 780MP did. Also I always wanted to try active.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 01:16 PM
also, one thing I'd like to add:

when running active, it's best not to do so with scissors.

:confused:

James Bang
04-20-2009, 01:19 PM
Really, well I will turn on the active feature and see what options i had, from what i read in the manual, the sub filters are under a different menu. when the crossover is activated, i get 3 more options under a different menu, which has fron hp, rear hp, and rear lp.

but if thats the case then the rear lp will be the sub, then the front hp and rear hp will be the mid and tweet.
rear hp + rear lp = bandpass.

tweets - hp
mids - bandpass
sub - lp





More detailed and cleaner, my headunit does not have any front/rear hp controls, like my 780MP did. Also I always wanted to try active.

detailed and cleaner would just basically depend on the speakers. nothing really to do with active crossovers.

Tonyguy
04-20-2009, 01:20 PM
have you heard a car that's running and active setup? You should really talk to this guy:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/51708-500-hp-bmw-m3-goes-hybrid-audio.html

He is in the northern suburbs and is extremely knowledgeable. I just went up this weekend to listen to the bimmer in the thread and it really blew me away. But he's a great guy and should be able to answer most questions you would have about going active. Sometimes it feels better to get advice in person rather than from an online forum.

James Bang
04-20-2009, 01:23 PM
have you heard a car that's running and active setup? You should really talk to this guy:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/51708-500-hp-bmw-m3-goes-hybrid-audio.html

He is in the northern suburbs and is extremely knowledgeable. I just went up this weekend to listen to the bimmer in the thread and it really blew me away. But he's a great guy and should be able to answer most questions you would have about going active. Sometimes it feels better to get advice in person rather than from an online forum.

on an online forum, you get to pick and choose which retard's advice to take. in person, you're stuck with one. ;)

FoxPro5
04-20-2009, 01:31 PM
Whelp, if you ask a tard like me, I'd never recommend an active setup I've never actually used. Eh, Mr RSX? :p:

I'd say "practice" on your current drivers by replicating the passive xover points on your HU, first. Then move them up/down and listen to what that does. Then adjust the slope and listen to what that does. Then flip the polarity back and forth on all drivers...or have a friend do it while you're listening. Then T/A your mids (w/out the tweets playing) and listen. Then the tweeters alone....listen. Then both together...yes, still listening. Then everything all at once....all the while, yes you got it, listening. Of course, before all of this, you'd want to level match the L and R sides of the car on your preamp voltage desensitizer rotatory knob adjuster thing with your DMM. :) Easy as pie. :)

THEN, maybe....maybe go buy some other drivers.

James Bang
04-20-2009, 01:33 PM
Whelp, if you ask a guy like me, I'd never recommend an active setup I've never actually used. Eh, Mr RSX? :p:

I'd say "practice" on your current drivers by replicating the passive xover points on your HU, first. Then move them up/down and listen to what that does. Then adjust the slope and listen to what that does. Then T/A your mids (w/out the tweets playing) and listen. Then the tweeters alone....listen. Then both together...yes, still listening. Then everything all at once....all the while, yes you got it, listening. Of course, before all of this, you'd want to level match the L and R sides of the car on your preamp voltage desensitizer rotatory knob adjuster thing with your DMM. :) Easy as pie. :)

THEN, maybe....maybe go buy some other drivers.

good advice, but as we've already learned, he doesn't listen very well :D

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 01:38 PM
rear hp + rear lp = bandpass.

tweets - hp
mids - bandpass
sub - lp





detailed and cleaner would just basically depend on the speakers. nothing really to do with active crossovers.

well can i ask why your running active?


have you heard a car that's running and active setup? You should really talk to this guy:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-build-logs/51708-500-hp-bmw-m3-goes-hybrid-audio.html

He is in the northern suburbs and is extremely knowledgeable. I just went up this weekend to listen to the bimmer in the thread and it really blew me away. But he's a great guy and should be able to answer most questions you would have about going active. Sometimes it feels better to get advice in person rather than from an online forum.

actually heard mlstrass's setup, he is running active and it sounds so much warmer and natural.


on an online forum, you get to pick and choose which retard's advice to take. in person, you're stuck with one. ;)

who's teh retard?


Whelp, if you ask a tard like me, I'd never recommend an active setup I've never actually used. Eh, Mr RSX? :p:

I'd say "practice" on your current drivers by replicating the passive xover points on your HU, first. Then move them up/down and listen to what that does. Then adjust the slope and listen to what that does. Then T/A your mids (w/out the tweets playing) and listen. Then the tweeters alone....listen. Then both together...yes, still listening. Then everything all at once....all the while, yes you got it, listening. Of course, before all of this, you'd want to level match the L and R sides of the car on your preamp voltage desensitizer rotatory knob adjuster thing with your DMM. :) Easy as pie. :)

THEN, maybe....maybe go buy some other drivers.

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. From what i heard the slope should always be at its highest point. Reason why i want to try different mids is because i would hate to blow these dls mids up, and not being able to find a replacement. and those peerless mids are under $35 each, so if they mess up its easily replaced.

Also i like to try new things, and experiment. In car audio, you are never satisifed!

also never called you a tard :)

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 01:44 PM
good advice, but as we've already learned, he doesn't listen very well :D

just because i dont listen to you when it comes to deadener, does not mean i am not going to take other advice. i am here to learn, and just because we disagree on deadener, does not mean that i am not open to opinions, especially a topic like this seeing you are running active.

Tonyguy
04-20-2009, 01:45 PM
actually heard mlstrass's setup, he is running active and it sounds so much warmer and natural.

Cool, just giving you an option to gain a little more experience from someone who definitely knows something on the subject.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 02:02 PM
Cool, just giving you an option to gain a little more experience from someone who definitely knows something on the subject.

thanks man, ill definintely join that forum and ask some questions

James Bang
04-20-2009, 02:15 PM
well can i ask why your running active?
for the SQs of course :)

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398166
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371238
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386826



who's teh retard?


you're paying attention to wrong thing there..


just because i dont listen to you when it comes to deadener, does not mean i am not going to take other advice. i am here to learn, and just because we disagree on deadener, does not mean that i am not open to opinions, especially a topic like this seeing you are running active.

Foxy used to be in the deadening industry FYI, much more credentials compared to me and running active w/ scissors. If you wouldn't listen to him when it comes to sound dampening, then I don't see any reason to take my advice when it comes to activenessivity. ;) .

anyhow, what Fox said is the most logical. Just experiment with what you already have. All you'll have to do is change some wiring. no new baffles for new mids, or finding a way to mount those large format tweets.

As long as you bandpass those mids at a safe range then you'll be fine. The slope will also be a factor for that 'safe range.'

James Bang
04-20-2009, 02:16 PM
thanks man, ill definintely join that forum and ask some questions

no. search/read. There's practically nothing that hasn't been discussed to death already.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 02:35 PM
for the SQs of course :)

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398166
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371238
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386826



you're paying attention to wrong thing there..



Foxy used to be in the deadening industry FYI, much more credentials compared to me and running active w/ scissors. If you wouldn't listen to him when it comes to sound dampening, then I don't see any reason to take my advice when it comes to activenessivity. ;) .

anyhow, what Fox said is the most logical. Just experiment with what you already have. All you'll have to do is change some wiring. no new baffles for new mids, or finding a way to mount those large format tweets.

As long as you bandpass those mids at a safe range then you'll be fine. The slope will also be a factor for that 'safe range.'

because i am not closeminded about everything, i am seriously here to learn. well i dont have baffles right now, see long story short, before i learned how easy to install car audio was, i paid a shop $400 to install my comps, sub, 2 amps and wiring (not my current setup, my old one which conisted of - ed 6000.v1 comps, 13ov.2, nine.2x and a pioneer 4 channel).

also the guy chopped up my stock door holes and made a mess, i got a thread in the IL section about it. but i do have baffles, and i need to put an attachment on the back so it can fit, since the holes are bigger than the baffles.

But i wanted to mount the mids on the outside using dls grills, so thats not an issue. the tweeters, the whole should be big enough for the magnet, just screw it. so redoing my setup wont be as hard, and i like experimenting and working on my car.


no. search/read. There's practically nothing that hasn't been discussed to death already.


got it!

stuckinok
04-20-2009, 03:22 PM
no. search/read. There's practically nothing that hasn't been discussed to death already.

Truth! I have been a member there for a while and only have 27 post. Lurking and searching is the best thing hands down. There are many threads on every subject you could imagine.

James Bang
04-20-2009, 04:01 PM
I actually have a pair of those tweets, that i've never touched. too lazy and i'm lovin' how the HDS tweets sound.

The HDS tweets feel to have much better build quality compared to the DX25s. dual mag vs single. solid metal flange vs. dinky plastic. I can't compare the sound since i haven't heard the dx25s yet.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a11/mobster909/New%20install/IMG00311.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a11/mobster909/New%20install/IMG00313.jpg

FoxPro5
04-20-2009, 05:14 PM
Where do people get this idea that once you "go active" you're going to blow speakers left and right? I've never blown any out of all the speakers I've tried and I'm as reckless of a hack as anyone. :confused: But I don't gain-up at the amps so I guess that probably has something to do with it. :emb:

And an active system is not inherently better sounding than one that uses passive crossovers. If you hear a great sounding system, you're hearing a great sounding car put together by someone that utilized the space very well and probably spend hours and hours and hours tweaking and tuning it.

And I'd say stay away from HAT cars, they sound "colored," "sterile" and "off." :rolleyes:

James Bang
04-20-2009, 05:17 PM
Where do people get this idea that once you "go active" you're going to blow speakers left and right? I've never blown any out of all the speakers I've tried and I'm as reckless of a hack as anyone. :confused: But I don't gain-up at the amps so I guess that probably has something to do with it. :emb:

And an active system is not inherently better sounding than one that uses passive crossovers. If you hear a great sounding system, you're hearing a great sounding car put together by someone that utilized the space very well and probably spend hours and hours and hours tweaking and tuning it.

And I'd say stay away from HAT cars, they sound "colored," "sterile" and "off." :rolleyes:

IMO, it's a passive indirect way of saying they're stoopid.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 08:52 PM
okay so with my dls comps, since the crossover point is 4500, for the tweet i would go up, and the mid i would go down?

FoxPro5
04-20-2009, 09:59 PM
okay so with my dls comps, since the crossover point is 4500, for the tweet i would go up, and the mid i would go down?

My guess is that you're limited to 3.15, 4 or 5khz around that point for both the tweeter HP and mid LP.

James Bang
04-20-2009, 11:04 PM
try to get T/S params from DLS for mids and tweets.

na_rsx
04-20-2009, 11:18 PM
okay found them, thought i was never going to find them lol

Woofer size 6,5" / 16,5 cm
Impedance 4 ohm
Outer diameter of woofer 165 mm / 6,5"
Mounting depth 72 mm / 2,83"
Magnet size 100 mm / 3,94"
Mounting hole 140 mm / 5,5"
Power handling capacity 100 W RMS
Max power handling capacity 160 W
Frequency range 45 - 5000 Hz
Sensitivity 87 dB

Fs 52,2 Hz
Re 3 Ohm
Qms 3,52
Vas 12,53
liter Vas 0,44
Cuft Qes 0,56
Qts 0,49
Sd 106 cm²
BL 4,48

James Bang
04-20-2009, 11:40 PM
try to get T/S params from DLS for mids and tweets.

true that.

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 08:51 AM
my bad lol, this is all i could find

http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_144

Impedance 4 ohm
Power handling capacity 50 W RMS
Max power handling capacity 80 W
Frequency range 1.500 - 20.000 Hz
Fs - Resonant frequency 1200 Hz
Rec. crossover point 4 - 5 kHz
Sensitivity 93 dB (1W/1m
Magnet size 28 mm (1,1")
Outer diameter 60 mm (2,36")
Mounting depth 18 mm ( 0,71")
Mounting hole 48 mm (1,89")

James Bang
04-21-2009, 10:42 AM
I would cross the tweets lower than 2.5khz
and keep the mids above 80hz.

twice the FS. read up grasshoppa

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 11:14 AM
I would cross the tweets lower than 2.5khz
and keep the mids above 80hz.

twice the FS. read up grasshoppa

Well my sub is is 80hz, so the mid can be 80hz. Thanks man, might do this this weekend :D

James Bang
04-21-2009, 11:18 AM
or you can have your sub & mids crossed at 100hz.

ramos
04-21-2009, 11:24 AM
Is there any other way to run besides actively? :)

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 11:37 AM
or you can have your sub & mids crossed at 100hz.

so set the sub to 100 and mid at 100, i know the sub will stop at 100, and the mid will start from 100 correct?

ill keep the tweet at 2.4k or around that area, cant wait to try this out. thanks james!

ramos
04-21-2009, 11:41 AM
They won't stop playing the frequencies, crossovers attentuate the level at which the frequency plays by however many decibels per octave. :)

James Bang
04-21-2009, 11:43 AM
They won't stop playing the frequencies, crossovers attentuate the level at which the frequency plays by however many decibels per octave. :)


so set the sub to 100 and mid at 100, i know the sub will stop at 100, and the mid will start from 100 correct?


what ramos said. I would also like to add that I like to snowboard down the slopes during the winter season.

-6db/oct = bunny slopes.

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 11:43 AM
Ah ok, also the slope should be at the highest position correct?

ramos
04-21-2009, 11:44 AM
Ah ok, also the slope should be at the highest position correct?

Depends really , I tend to start steep then work my way down. :)

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 11:49 AM
Depends really , I tend to start steep then work my way down. :)

uh steep as in a low number or high number, sorry guys :o

James Bang
04-21-2009, 11:50 AM
uh steep as in a low number or high number, sorry guys :o

you should be.

the number and steepness are positively correlated.

James Bang
04-21-2009, 11:51 AM
Do you know this much when it comes to deadening too? :p:

JBLCAMRY
04-21-2009, 11:55 AM
Do you know this much when it comes to deadening too? :p:

i see what you did there.


























:laugh:

ramos
04-21-2009, 11:59 AM
uh steep as in a low number or high number, sorry guys :o


Think of the description James made with 6db being bunny slopes (shallow), then 24db would be the dead mans drop (steep) :)

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 12:05 PM
you should be.

the number and steepness are positively correlated.

now i understand


Do you know this much when it comes to deadening too? :p:

i know edead is good deadening :p:


i see what you did there.


























:laugh:

:furious:


Think of the description James made with 6db being bunny slopes (shallow), then 24db would be the dead mans drop (steep) :)

understood, start at 18 and work my way down, got it!!

ramos
04-21-2009, 12:28 PM
Crossovers don't always have to be set identical i.e. high pass on mids at 100hz low pass on subs at 100hz. Sometimes overlap or underlap can be a good thing :)

Megalomaniac
04-21-2009, 12:46 PM
My sub is X'ed at 40hz :confused:

James Bang
04-21-2009, 12:51 PM
My sub is X'ed at 40hz :confused:

for the lows?

Racerx250
04-21-2009, 12:55 PM
I didn't read the whole thread but but if you can adjust time alignment you will love it.

It made a huge difference on my hsk165's.

ramos
04-21-2009, 01:04 PM
My sub is X'ed at 40hz :confused:

I run mine full range :cool:

James Bang
04-21-2009, 01:10 PM
I didn't read the whole thread but but if you can adjust time alignment you will love it.

It made a huge difference on my hsk165's.

awesome. can I get your input: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371238

FoxPro5
04-21-2009, 01:53 PM
Is there any other way to run besides actively? :)

A paraplegic would argue wheelchair. :)

FoxPro5
04-21-2009, 01:55 PM
what ramos said. I would also like to add that I like to snowboard down the slopes during the winter season.

-6db/oct = bunny slopes.

Well yea, so you like to take it slow, but your FR still looks like the terrain park! Ohhhhhhhh burnnnnn......:laugh::confused::crap::p:

ramos
04-21-2009, 01:56 PM
A paraplegic would argue wheelchair. :)


still actively using their tongue to push that switch :)

FoxPro5
04-21-2009, 01:59 PM
still actively using their tongue to push that switch :)

In the case of a quad, yes. :)

Also, you don't have to run the LP and LP points together: 100 hz to 100 hz. I gap all my points by 1/3 octave. It's considered baller on the streets in the North. :veryhapp:

michaellane
04-21-2009, 02:00 PM
wait where did you get a ed amp that does 100x4 @4ohms? and you do mean elemental design right?

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 02:09 PM
wait where did you get a ed amp that does 100x4 @4ohms? and you do mean elemental design right?

Yup, Nine.5 baby, its no longer sold, its one of the best 5 channel amps ever made. Here is a pic:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14/na_rsx/IMAG0074.jpg

James Bang
04-21-2009, 02:26 PM
Yup, Nine.5 baby, its no longer sold, its one of the best 5 channel amps ever made.

you were doing good, too, then you had to open your mouth again.:crap:

James Bang
04-21-2009, 02:28 PM
Well yea, so you like to take it slow, but your FR still looks like the terrain park! Ohhhhhhhh burnnnnn......:laugh::confused::crap::p:

oooooooooooooooooooh! :crap:

jumping on jibs and humps for some dynamic riding :)

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 02:28 PM
you were doing good, too, then you had to open your mouth again.:crap:

:crap: you cant deny its a good amp (not customer service or their deadening)

ramos
04-21-2009, 02:28 PM
Also, you don't have to run the LP and LP points together: 100 hz to 100 hz. I gap all my points by 1/3 octave. It's considered baller on the streets in the North. :veryhapp:

Not just the north ;)

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 02:29 PM
btw james, have any pics of your setup?

Megalomaniac
04-21-2009, 02:34 PM
Yup, Nine.5 baby, its no longer sold, its one of the best 5 channel amps ever made. Here is a pic:



While we are posting pics of NINe.5s here is mine :D

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q151/Megalomaniac1989/March_15th_Recarpet_False_Floor/IMG_6221.jpg

James Bang
04-21-2009, 02:40 PM
btw james, have any pics of your setup?

only a few..
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263953

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 02:53 PM
not bad, must sound really clear

James Bang
04-21-2009, 03:15 PM
:crap: you cant deny its a good amp (not customer service or their deadening)
you should know better(or not) to not use "best"

not bad, must sound really clear

I couldn't tell from pics. It sounds ******. I should've mounted my tweets in the doors like bigbangtheory did.

na_rsx
04-21-2009, 04:48 PM
you should know better(or not) to not use "best"


I couldn't tell from pics. It sounds ******. I should've mounted my tweets in the doors like bigbangtheory did.

i said its ONE of the best, not THE best ;)

James Bang
04-21-2009, 05:53 PM
i said its ONE of the best, not THE best ;)

no.