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Flipx99
01-27-2009, 10:01 PM
http://av123.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/ren_482b5a3c2c62fxstatik-c-4-1024.jpg

I want to build something like this. I like the look and style of it, but want to build it myself, with similar CC.

ANy suggestions?

I VIK I
01-27-2009, 10:02 PM
Link doesnt work

ngsm13
01-27-2009, 10:05 PM
404 buddy...

nG

revrider1
01-27-2009, 10:06 PM
Its broke

ThatChevyGuy
01-27-2009, 10:08 PM
it r broked

LiquidClen
01-27-2009, 10:11 PM
tag for fixed link

slopecarver
01-27-2009, 11:27 PM
I'd imagine he's talking about the MFW-15 sub HERE (http://av123.com/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,265/category_id,9/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,37/) as this is a car audio forum dealing with mostly bass yet I realize this is also the home audio section.

Flipx99
01-27-2009, 11:45 PM
fixed, sorry

ngsm13
01-27-2009, 11:53 PM
Then do it...

Got specs, details, xover designs?

nG

Flipx99
01-27-2009, 11:55 PM
Then do it...

Got specs, details, xover designs?

nG

Not really. AV123 makes it. I wonder/doubt they would sell the xover designs.

I really like that "open baffle" style. I have talked to jimj about it in the past and most of those OB styles look like a speaker surrounded by a giant piece of wood.

Fast1one
01-29-2009, 11:34 PM
OB sounds quite incredible. I will never go back to an closed box speaker again (other than cars, stupid cars). Instead of trying to replicate that design, I would simplify it.

Use a woofer and tweeter of your choice and design a crossover either by using calculations or room measurements. Or find an existing design and adapt it. If you can, add a second tweeter firing out back to complete the sound.

Then use an enclosed ten inch subwoofer or larger for each cabinet. Open baffle sub-bass is very transparent, but difficult to achieve as you need a lot of cone area (space) and EQ work.

Make sure you can cross over the subwoofers fairly high (150hz or higher) and that they can play accurately that high (Dayton RS series come to mind) so that you have options with crossover points. Most of the sub-bass and mid-bass will be handled by these to woofers so dont skimp.

Another more expensive option is using two 10 inch or larger drivers with a highish QTS and Low FS to handle the midbass on the same open baffle. Then use a monopole sub for anything below 80hz. This will require EQing of the large drivers to flatten out the response. Clever crossover design can also remedy the rising response.

One more note, you need to allow atleast 3 feet from the back wall ( ideally, 3 feet from the sidewalls though not as vital) spacing for open baffle.

IamDeMan
01-30-2009, 10:38 AM
OB sounds quite incredible. I will never go back to an closed box speaker again (other than cars, stupid cars). Instead of trying to replicate that design, I would simplify it.

Use a woofer and tweeter of your choice and design a crossover either by using calculations or room measurements. Or find an existing design and adapt it. If you can, add a second tweeter firing out back to complete the sound.

Then use an enclosed ten inch subwoofer or larger for each cabinet. Open baffle sub-bass is very transparent, but difficult to achieve as you need a lot of cone area (space) and EQ work.

Make sure you can cross over the subwoofers fairly high (150hz or higher) and that they can play accurately that high (Dayton RS series come to mind) so that you have options with crossover points. Most of the sub-bass and mid-bass will be handled by these to woofers so dont skimp.

Another more expensive option is using two 10 inch or larger drivers with a highish QTS and Low FS to handle the midbass on the same open baffle. Then use a monopole sub for anything below 80hz. This will require EQing of the large drivers to flatten out the response. Clever crossover design can also remedy the rising response.

One more note, you need to allow atleast 3 feet from the back wall ( ideally, 3 feet from the sidewalls though not as vital) spacing for open baffle.
I would take the second route. No matter what sub is used in a home setup, it never sounds quite right to extend the sub that high, imo.

Fast1one
02-01-2009, 07:58 PM
I would take the second route. No matter what sub is used in a home setup, it never sounds quite right to extend the sub that high, imo.Agreed...

A good (and popular) option if you have the room for midbass is one or two Eminence Alpha 15As (15 inch Pro woofers) per side to handle midbass and sub bass.

Goldwood also makes a great 18 inch woofer for open baffle bass. http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project08/Project08.html

Flipx99
02-01-2009, 08:03 PM
I ahve a "real" sub as wellll.

WOuld I still use a 15 or 18 for midbass/

andrew2944r
02-01-2009, 08:09 PM
I would just go to your nearest Home theatre store and pull out the CC and buy something...

Fast1one
02-04-2009, 12:51 AM
I ahve a "real" sub as wellll.

WOuld I still use a 15 or 18 for midbass/These two drivers have been used by a few people over at diyaudio with great results:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-407
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=292-218

Also this 18 has been used by Martin J. King over at quarter-wave.com with great results:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-386

Since you already have a dedicated subwoofer, you wouldn't have to worry about EQ. I would follow Martin's guidelines over on quarter-wave for the proper crossover points and slopes.


I would just go to your nearest Home theatre store and pull out the CC and buy something...Umm...no

Well, I suppose it depends which home theater store. And who you know :)