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SGSeeker
01-17-2009, 09:26 PM
SO I've had some Aurum Cantus AC-180F1's (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=296-412) running for a year but somewhere in there, the car had a huge drivetrain conversion so it was off the road for awhile. Some time last year the speakers just quit working - the both of them. There is no resistance on either speaker so obviously the voice coil is messed up. Being 8 ohm, I had ~70 watts max going to each speaker and crossover was set to 125hz.

Anyone have any ideas on why the **** things decided to fry themselves?

edzy
01-17-2009, 09:31 PM
what amp?

SGSeeker
01-17-2009, 09:45 PM
It was a PDX 2.150 (have a 4.150 in there now). Gain was set conservatively with only test tones and a multimeter - 20v with a 100hz test tone.

atlbraves
01-17-2009, 09:48 PM
100hz test tone isnt that a lil low shouldnt it be around 1khz for speakers i was told

ric flair
01-17-2009, 09:49 PM
test tones for speakers should be around 1k, why the hell did you use a 100 test tone?

Pl8er
01-17-2009, 09:54 PM
Sounds like you set it up wrong.

They lasted a long time though. Have you checked the wiring to make sure nothing corroded and the wires are all good.

SGSeeker
01-17-2009, 09:58 PM
I believe it was 100hz - it was a year and a half ago when I adjusted it. Maybe it was higher, who knows. I've got 50, 80, 100, 250, 500, and 1khz test tones on there. Wouldn't setting it up at a frequency too low cause something producing higher frequencies to be quieter? Anyways, the speakers were never much louder than the "tweeters" (3 1/2" 2-way speakers in the dash...) running off headunit power so I can't believe the gain was set over the top.

SGSeeker
01-17-2009, 10:00 PM
Sounds like you set it up wrong.

They lasted a long time though. Have you checked the wiring to make sure nothing corroded and the wires are all good.

The wires were fine when I pulled the speakers out - other speakers fired up just fine. I haven't twisted them together to check the overall resistance but the ends were soldered onto the speakers rather than using quick disconnects. I solder everything I can when it comes to wiring.

Pl8er
01-17-2009, 10:05 PM
The wires were fine when I pulled the speakers out - other speakers fired up just fine. I haven't twisted them together to check the overall resistance but the ends were soldered onto the speakers rather than using quick disconnects. I solder everything I can when it comes to wiring.

Any chance that the amp was messed with? Were the settings still the same?

I would reset the gains using 1kz as well (when you get new speakers) Also, set the gains using 100 and then at 1kz and mark the amp so you can see the difference.

Pl8er
01-17-2009, 10:08 PM
Also, did you set the gains with a different equation when you got the new amp?

SGSeeker
01-17-2009, 10:14 PM
Also, did you set the gains with a different equation when you got the new amp?

The new amp isn't powering anything yet and not setup (gotta swap my eclipse sub amp out with the 1.1000 tomorrow). The amp wasn't messed with - it takes me an hour just to get to it myself with where it's mounted. I haven't touched the knob on the 2.150 yet so I can still power it up and find what it was set to.

SGSeeker
01-17-2009, 10:16 PM
Anyways, what's a good ~7" speaker in the $200-300 range? I'm looking for something that can do 100hz~2KHz. It's hard to search for information on independent drivers.

At least I only paid $100 for the AC's. Their suspension was too loose for my liking though.

atlbraves
01-17-2009, 10:27 PM
if you have no resistance on the coils with a dmm then they are prob shot period

for 7" drivers look into cdt make some good speakers

SGSeeker
01-17-2009, 10:48 PM
I'm thinking of either going with the Seas W18EX001 that still appear to do better than most others, or try to stuff W22EX001's in there and go with a 3 way setup in the front in the end (8", 4", 1"). These 8" 8ohm drivers seem like they'd enjoy receiving the power I've got to offer for the frontstage.

Pl8er
01-17-2009, 11:45 PM
I have AA Poly Mids

SGSeeker
01-18-2009, 10:27 PM
I went to plug my 1.1000 into the car and it made a nasty smell (without being plugged into any subs). I bench tested this thing prior and it worked fine. Only had power, ground, remote, and rca's but I never saw the thing on - upon close inspection it smelled funny. Now I have to pull this thing apart and see what the **** thing did to itself. Of course, fuses are all good still. The gain was turned all the way down, the crossover was apparently at 75hz, subsonic off and voltage setting at 1.0-8.0v.

Plugged the old amp back in and it works fine. Why are my things just randomly frying for no reason?! I've never had a problem with any car audio equipment until now.

Anyways, with a 1KHz test tone, the voltage going to the speakers is about 1/3 that with the 100Hz test tone. Being set at 100Hz, or at 1KHz, the old speakers wouldn't have been overpowered at all. Tested these all to get a good baseline for setting up the gain for the midbass/midrange speakers I have in the doors for now until I get get some better drivers.

Pl8er
01-19-2009, 12:00 AM
Have you always used the same ground? How and where are you pulling your power from? Something seems very off here.

Linkz
01-19-2009, 12:05 AM
wired the power backwards?

SGSeeker
01-19-2009, 12:17 AM
wired the power backwards?

Nope, that was the first thing I checked which is when I noticed the smell. I also probed it and got 12v (edit: actually 12.1v) grounding to the neg and checking both the + and remote. Very odd issue. Kinda hard to kill an amp by only trying to power it up unless you do indeed put the wires in the wrong places.

I have the power being Kicker 1/0 to the back, starting from a Stinger dual 1/0 post battery terminal to a 150A fuse then in the back a T block puts 4 gauge to the two amps (4.150 and, well, an Eclipse right now). The ground is to a 1/2" (thread width) bolt that holds it to a thick sheetmetal area (main support for the rear roof) that is ground down to the metal with two of those...washers that press into the material in a star pattern, under washers, under a nut on the opposite side of the bolt head. Anyways, the gain was turned down to nothing so if my 500w amp works great there, there is no reason the PDX shouldn't. I don't remember the resistance from the ground mounting point to the battery but it was quite good when I ran the wiring 2 years ago.

I'll drop the amp off at a relatives and let them have a go at figuring it out - all that pro-studio electrical knowledge should fit right in here.

macq32
01-19-2009, 02:49 AM
there's a reason

Pl8er
01-19-2009, 12:18 PM
Have you checked the power wire from the battery all the way back? Check for any pinch points that could be making contact with the frame.

It could just be a coincidence and nothing is wrong (just faulty equipment). But seems off with the problems you are having.

SGSeeker
01-24-2009, 02:55 AM
Have you checked the power wire from the battery all the way back? Check for any pinch points that could be making contact with the frame.

It could just be a coincidence and nothing is wrong (just faulty equipment). But seems off with the problems you are having.

There is nowhere the wire could even be pinched - it runs in a big open void and is ziptied in place. The wire's fuse would burn fairly quickly if this were the case. Anyways, the amp was opened up and there isn't a single scorch mark anywhere and I guess all the culprit parts have been tested and all test fine (I'm not an electrical engineer - I don't know what all the parts are or what many of them do but just going off what I was told). He's going to try powering it up himself now on the bench to better see what's going on. Supposedly there isn't any smell inside either...thinking the smell I smelled earlier was wire rather than the amp. If the entire power supply checks out fine, I don't see why it won't power on.

edzy
01-24-2009, 12:39 PM
I would ohm out the ground to start. next make sure the rem is 12 volt +. ( if the rem was effed it it would show in the deck, so its dobtful). Other then tha??? if the feed is 12.1? now is that with the car on?

At this point i would hook things up with whips at the battery to see if it was indeed the amp or wires.
in this order.
neg to amp/bat
fused pos to amp/bat
jumper from rem to amps pos
rcas from deck
sub.

if it works fine like that, then its the wiring in the car, if not, then the amp.