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View Full Version : Sealed or Free-Air kickpanels?



CadillacMatt
12-24-2008, 07:09 PM
I'm thinking of fabricating some kick panels for my car, the component set I have are the IDCTX65CS, which are free-air/IB designed according to specs... should I design kicks with an open side to allow the free-air, or seal it up?

I was debating putting them in the door but the trim panel is a tad bit too small to contain them.

I've heard that sealing midranges doesn't give good results... anyone help me out? Thanks :cool:

Etac
12-24-2008, 07:11 PM
well like you said, if you run them free air they becme IB (much like your doors) this isnt always bad depending on the driver just make sure that the backwave is seperated from the front wave.. its not that sealing doesnt give good results... they can actually sound better, but will also lose effiency.. it all depends on airspace and the driver.. and if these are also going to play midbass.. i might recommend leaving them open, if not i say seal em..


actually if you're taking them out of youer doors and making kicks... why not put a 6.5 midbass in the door? kinda like me

CadillacMatt
12-24-2008, 07:19 PM
well like you said, if you run them free air they becme IB (much like your doors) this isnt always bad depending on the driver just make sure that the backwave is seperated from the front wave.. its not that sealing doesnt give good results... they can actually sound better, but will also lose effiency.. it all depends on airspace and the driver.. and if these are also going to play midbass.. i might recommend leaving them open, if not i say seal em..


actually if you're taking them out of youer doors and making kicks... why not put a 6.5 midbass in the door? kinda like me

It's an issue of fitting them in my doors. The Kenwoods I have are 5.25" with an 1 1/2" mounting depth, and the new Image Dynamics are 6.5" with a 3" mounting depth... in order to prevent them from hitting the window mechanism I would have to build a 1" baffle/spacer, and on top of that carefully cut away the inside of the trim panel because the speaker would stick out about 1" into the panel. And to make matters worse, the door panel armrest sits about 5 1/2" from the bottom of the door, so the top part of the speaker would be blocked by it.

DBBOOM
12-24-2008, 07:22 PM
Freeair/IB.

Etac
12-24-2008, 07:22 PM
lol i cant roll my windows down all the way with a one inch spacer :D

Gavriley2007
12-24-2008, 07:27 PM
lol i cant roll my windows down all the way with a one inch spacer :D

lol at least you got good sounds though

Etac
12-24-2008, 07:28 PM
yeah they go down enough... i wish i got peerless 3 inch mids instead of these tangs.... and its not that im unhappy with the tangs i just didnt see the peerless ones till after i ordered em =\

Boris
12-24-2008, 07:30 PM
I can roll my window all the way down (only took 3 MDF rings) but I prefer not to. The glass right behind the speaker ruins the sound.

CadillacMatt
12-24-2008, 07:40 PM
Here's a pic of what I'm talking about... the darker carpet on the bottom of the door is only 5 1/2" in width and the speaker sits behind it. The smaller grille in the middle of the door is the stock tweeter.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/CadillacMatt95/DCP_0005-1.jpg

DBBOOM
12-24-2008, 07:46 PM
You could build some really nice pods on that door. Nice area below armrest.

Horsemanwill
12-24-2008, 08:10 PM
hey matt matt over at id responded to ur question. i was searching for those pics but got sidetracked.

CadillacMatt
12-24-2008, 08:20 PM
hey matt matt over at id responded to ur question. i was searching for those pics but got sidetracked.

Thanks :cool:

CadillacMatt
12-24-2008, 08:23 PM
You could build some really nice pods on that door. Nice area below armrest.

Yeah, but I'd have to kinda build them out at a funky angle, and then there's the issue of blending them with the doors :crap:

Hybrid90accord
12-24-2008, 10:21 PM
i just had a 99 come to the shop, for a deck, and amp bypass to a jl 300/4 to run some ID 5.25" components and yeah there isnt much to play with once the door panel is removed.

AAAAAAA
12-24-2008, 11:29 PM
I can't say a wide open back kick pod will ever work right. It needs to be sealed. Once it is sealed you can poke open about a 1inch hole for it to "vent" and you can see if you prefer it that way or completely sealed.

AndyInOC
12-25-2008, 02:17 AM
you'll shoot your eye out kid!!!!!

mjf
12-25-2008, 02:33 AM
i was toying around with the idea of a tline for my doors, as it wouldnt exactly need to be too large. heh

JimJ
12-25-2008, 10:34 AM
Free air does not equal IB :)

Just needed to clear that up...

CadillacMatt
12-26-2008, 01:35 PM
Mother****.... I really don't forsee this kick panel thing happening.

I just got back from the car and I was thinking of doing the kicks like Matt Borgardt over at ID recommended (mounting them open air into the A-pillars) but when I pulled the carpet back, I was greeted with a factory wiring harness bolted the entire width and length of the A-pillar, and pretty much no room to recess the 6.5"s into the body panels...

OK, so I toyed around with the idea of doing it like everyone else and building a "pod"... well, I placed the speaker about where it would sit on the driver's left and it felt like my leg was in my chest, I have long legs and I'd have to drive with one leg **** near indian style in order to make it work... I don't know, this is really frustrating... would I be better off just putting them in the doors? :mad:



Here are some pics by the way.... and that big ****ing mess of wires you see is the remnants of the wonderful job the piece of **** install shop did with my alarm :mad: :crap: :mad:

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/CadillacMatt95/DCP_0011-1.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/CadillacMatt95/DCP_0012-1.jpg



The big black piece of plastic on the left hand side is the wiring harness, and everything to the right of that is firewall

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/CadillacMatt95/DCP_0013-1.jpg

Horsemanwill
12-26-2008, 02:03 PM
if you took the door and extened the bottom of it to match the arm rest how much room would you have between the seat and the speaker?

CadillacMatt
12-26-2008, 02:10 PM
I don't quite follow.

CadillacMatt
12-26-2008, 02:57 PM
Didn't mean to freak out, went back downstairs with a cool head and managed to sort through that mess a little bit... the plastic harness cover will come off with a little careful destruction, and what's left is a bundle of wires about 1.5" in diameter... I should be able to move them out of the way by a few inches.

There is actually a hole behind the harness leading into the A-pillar, which was a surprise. The foam underneath the carpeting by the brake pedal was slightly damp, which concerns me...

So I went ahead and made a template to match the approximate size of the speaker baffle, and toyed around with the location and I actually found a spot that wouldn't be too intrusive... the speaker would have enough depth for mounting, and I could pull the carpet and glass an enclosure that would open into the A-pillar.

However I got to thinking about it, and I'm wondering how exactly I would blend all this in to the existing carpet... lots to think about.

Here's the template I made

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/CadillacMatt95/DCP_0015-1.jpg


And the wiring harness peeking out from inside the plastic clamshell

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/CadillacMatt95/DCP_0014-1.jpg

Horsemanwill
12-26-2008, 02:58 PM
in that case reroute reroute reroute. and find out where that moisture camre from.

CadillacMatt
12-26-2008, 03:12 PM
in that case reroute reroute reroute. and find out where that moisture camre from.

What if I made sort of a "wall" instead of a full on enclosure?

What I mean is, take a piece of MDF and shape it to the contour of the left side kick panel (my car has carpet there where some other cars already have plastic kicks).

Once I have the "wall" made, I would build the baffle off of the "wall", position it and secure it with dowels, and put fleece/resin over it just like all the other methods.

Then I could go back and cut out the backside of the wall to allow the speakers to come through and provide an open airspace between the speakers and the back of the wall.

So in essence the backside of the wall, including the A-pillar space a would be the "enclosure", but it wouldn't be sealed up like glassing it to the opening of the A-pillar would be... would this be a waste of time?



I'm sorry if I'm confusing and exceedingly random but I'm new to this stuff and I'm trying to soak it all up at once I guess, thanks for putting up with me :crazy:

Horsemanwill
12-26-2008, 03:13 PM
i haven't done kicks i'd ask matt that question.

CadillacMatt
12-26-2008, 03:13 PM
kthx

Boris
12-26-2008, 07:46 PM
There's no way I could ever drive with kicks.
All I would be doing is just that, kicking the shait out of them.

Give the door one more look over, build pods on the doors. Or not.

brian84corvette
12-26-2008, 07:51 PM
I would use caution if building them there.
moisture will find it,
and mess up your mdf.
and maby some one will step on your pod, or speaker, and wreck it.

I actually took apart my doors to find a good spot to cut in some 6.5" holes
for speakers there. found out that I could fit in a pair of 8" or a set of 6by9 -
but I kept the 6.5" speakers since I already had them to use. but now I can upgrade to some 8" if I find them.
for my doors. alot of room in there foward up. all my window motor stuff is dead center of the doors.

give em a good looking over to see what space is avalable.
take off a door pannel, and run the window up and down a couple of times
to see wherere all the crap inside is running to. lets you know how much space is avalable to work with. migt be suprised how much room you got in there.