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View Full Version : Spare tire enclosure with a twist.



Boris
12-07-2008, 02:47 PM
First, I don't yet have a sub or amp picked out (single Re SE 12" is what I'm thinking).
I really need as much trunk space as possible for my weekend activities so I need to dump my MDF box and old sub in favor of something different.
My car has the spare tire on the left side of the trunk that I'm willing to leave at home. That space could be used for the sub enclosure but I don't have a clue how best to utilise it.
The spare tire well is large enough (I think) to get a nice sound with only the tail light bulb access being an issue.

Here are some pictures that I hope someone could use to guide me in the right direction.
Any and all help is much appreciated.

BushJ311
12-07-2008, 02:49 PM
Fiberglassing it?

IDSkoT
12-07-2008, 02:54 PM
Fiberglassing it?

x2

The only way to fully utilize the space.
If you're interested,
www.fiberglassforums.com
They have all the info you need there, and their members won't hesitate to help you with a problem as long as you use the SEARCH button before you post a new thread.

Boris
12-07-2008, 02:55 PM
I can glass it and have quite a bit of cloth.
I'm easy and would do what ever is recommended.

fwb_1234
12-07-2008, 02:55 PM
dynamat and some fiberglass? Space seems big enough for several options.

Louisiana_CRX
12-07-2008, 02:58 PM
fiberglass to gain the most usable space...plus an indention can be made to access the tail light bulb

Boris
12-07-2008, 02:58 PM
I'm not new to glass at all, I have repaired my toys often enough to know how the stuff works.
I am totally new to making a sub sound like it should and designing the right enclosure for it.

Guess I need to mock something up out of cardboard, measure the volume and than decide on the sub, right ?

Boris
12-07-2008, 03:43 PM
Is there a hope in hell that this might be a ported enclosure or am I left with only the sealed option ?

Boris
12-07-2008, 07:51 PM
I made the enclosure out of cardboard so what would work well to find the volume ?
Would raping a bean bag work ?

sexiewasd
12-07-2008, 07:58 PM
leave the bean bag alone, that stuff gets everywhere and is hard to get rid of. Go get yourself some packing peanuts, if it's sealed the size can be off by quite bit and still sound good.

Boris
12-07-2008, 09:35 PM
Packing peanuts it is, thank you.

This whole box design, which sub, ........ is rather daunting but how else am I going to learn.

No matter what I come up with I'm sure it will be much better than my old Kicker in a prefab box.

budget76
12-07-2008, 09:38 PM
I'm doing the exact same thing when I get home next week, but with a smaller space. I ignored the tail light bulb access, I figure for the amount of times I'll need to replace it I'll just pull the **** box.

FWIW I'm going sealed. I figure it'll be 1-1.5 cubes when I'm done, plenty for whatever 10" I wanna throw in there. I've ran huge ported boxes, small porteds, small sealeds, and I need the trunk space like you, so I'm going more SQ with the sealed 10". Not sure how you'd port something like this, as the funky shape would make routing aero's interesting.

I'm glassing mine, forming it to the area like said above. I got half the first layer on when I was home last, then ran out of resin:rolleyes: So now all my tape is starting to peal, and I'll have to re-do it:crap:

Jeremy M
12-07-2008, 09:44 PM
u'll want to try and put all your layers down in in go...i think 7 is the magic # for speaker boxes. I found it easier to just to try and do all the layers in one go, saves on resin.

Boris
12-07-2008, 09:52 PM
u'll want to try and put all your layers down in in go...i think 7 is the magic # for speaker boxes. I found it easier to just to try and do all the layers in one go, saves on resin.

Lay it all up at one go.
Not only will you use less resin (resin is heavy and doesn't add strength beyond the point of saturation) and you will have a much better chemical bond between layers.

"7 is the magic number" but 7 of what exactly.

I have a bunch of 1208 biax and some 1708 biax that I want to throw at this enclosure but with 7 layers that sucker will be heavy. Also have some 11oz carbon that I could use for added strength.

IDSkoT
12-07-2008, 09:58 PM
fiberglass to gain the most usable space...plus an indention can be made to access the tail light bulb

Real men's tail lights don't go out.
What are you? Some sort of pansy?

Boris
12-07-2008, 09:59 PM
Real men's tail lights don't go out.
What are you? Some sort of pansy?

LOL
If I knew how to put that into my sig, I would.

Alex JB
12-08-2008, 10:18 AM
You planning on putting a flat face (facing into trunk space) on the box? If you think you are going to end up with 1 - 1.5 cu ft then you could go ported depending on yr sub choice and a plastic aero port could be fitted to front face.

I've used glass before for the same reasons as you, never managed enough volume for a ported design.
It's be nice to see, most glassed encosures in tunks are for space saving so are sealed and often volume is still on the small side for the sub too.

Boris
12-08-2008, 03:54 PM
Thank you Alex.
Yes I was thinking of doing a flat face and am trying hard to get 1.5 cu ft, goal is 2.0 cu ft.

On a side note, the metal that will be directly behind the glass will be covered in dynamat but should I also add a 1/4" layer of foam mat like this stuff ?
http://hydroturf.com/products.php?cat=Sheets%20of%20Hydro-Turf&man=Hydro-Turf
B-stock doesn't cost much and might help, or not.

SSS 18734
12-08-2008, 04:12 PM
Would raping a bean bag work?


leave the bean bag alone

sigged :cool: