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MikeofTulsa
07-26-2003, 11:57 PM
Since the other one disappeared......Feel free to post links.....no coments needed....just links please....please check for dead links and make sure they have not already been posted....thanks

http://web.njit.edu/%7Ecas1383/proj/main/

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/the1wagsjlguy

http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

http://www.caraudioresources.net/technical.html

http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=338498

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/jeep98

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/glassing/

http://www.geocities.com/stevebang2000/car-audio.html

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/fibrglas.htm

also my site...hope to have some glassing links on there soon...

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/goddyd4me

below is a quick and easy way to make a circle jig for a router.....for perfect circles its a must....

http://images.cardomain.com/member_img_a/254000-254999/254787_61_full.jpg

enjoy

MXJMR
07-27-2003, 03:13 AM
http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=4;hardset=;start_point= ;DaysPrune=

http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

http://www.carsound.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=004402

I have some others but they are the same as posted above, ENJOY! :cool:

MXJMR
07-27-2003, 03:15 AM
http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/index.html

Its the third one down "Bedtime for Bondo"

ss3079
07-27-2003, 05:24 PM
Kick Panels:
http://hem.passagen.se/gute/Corrado/byggbilder/front.htm
http://www.wes.nissanpower.com/photo.html

Spare Tire Enclosure:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7165/how_to_1.htm

- Steve

hotown
08-15-2003, 02:54 AM
http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/subwoofer.html

hotown
08-15-2003, 03:07 AM
http://www.me-mag.com/t_ci_pick.cfm?doList=2&sid=257

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=206749&page=2

ASDF12345
09-07-2003, 08:04 AM
im a resource. AIM me. capodonzoni. ive built everything. boxes, kicks, door panels, trim plates, mounting panels, dress up panels, dashes, everything. you name it ive built one with fiberglass. just dont name a seat. or a steering wheel.

mayday0017
01-12-2004, 07:52 PM
Ok I have seen alot of people on here guiding others in technique of fiberglass. Most say push down on the paint brush to paint the resin on, that is true so you don't make a rough serface. Others say paint it on that is NOT a good idea you will end up making alot more work for yourself and also will not be working out air bubbles you will be causing them. However if you want an even easier method then both of these. The way I switched to always doing it is cut the matt make strips like your making a pinyatta (however you spell that) cut a ton of strips up now mix your resin. throw on some cheap latex gloves dip the strips one at a time in the resin then lay it where it needs to be then repeat. if you do it right you might not even need to touch a paint brush. Now if you are working with grill cloth or sweatshirt material or something of the sort for shaping. Then brush away. Hope this helps some people out there.

Robert

MXJMR
01-22-2004, 06:05 PM
Like Paper Mache :d

ramos
01-29-2004, 12:20 PM
The dipping method is good, I like to use a plastic body spatula to help press the mat into corners and such. It's also great for helping you get rid of the excess resin. :)

John P.
02-02-2004, 11:41 AM
I have over 100 pics of the process here that you might find helpful:
TT Audio mk.II (http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/493978/1)
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_80.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_82.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_68.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_69.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_76.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_111.jpg

ss3079
02-02-2004, 10:03 PM
I have over 100 pics of the process here that you might find helpful:
TT Audio mk.II (http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/493978/1)


:handclap:

Awesome! :)

- Steve

Jim Boom
02-27-2004, 10:46 PM
Im confused on this deal, do you put the glass on the inside of the cloth or the outside or both sides or what, I couldn't find any straight forward how to's.

John P.
02-28-2004, 11:46 AM
Im confused on this deal, do you put the glass on the inside of the cloth or the outside or both sides or what, I couldn't find any straight forward how to's.

The best way to envision the process:
-imagine filling a cup with maple syrup
-put a piece of cloth where you want it to stay/mold to
-dip cheap chip brush into syrup
-dab/spread syrup on cloth so that it pentrates the cloth
-repeat several times

Of course, the syrup is polyester or epoxy resin here. And you're doing this in your car. And it dries rock hard. In doing so, it stays in the countour/shape where you placed it.

"Fiberglass" = resin + cloth or mat

Jim Boom
02-28-2004, 08:25 PM
The best way to envision the process:
-imagine filling a cup with maple syrup
-put a piece of cloth where you want it to stay/mold to
-dip cheap chip brush into syrup
-dab/spread syrup on cloth so that it pentrates the cloth
-repeat several times

Of course, the syrup is polyester or epoxy resin here. And you're doing this in your car. And it dries rock hard. In doing so, it stays in the countour/shape where you placed it.

"Fiberglass" = resin + cloth or mat
What kind of cloth or mat?

Acidburn
02-28-2004, 08:34 PM
fiberglass cloth or fiberglass mat

Jim Boom
02-28-2004, 09:30 PM
So you can use normal cloth for the mold, then put the glass cloth and resine dip on that.

Acidburn
02-29-2004, 02:05 AM
for the "normal cloth" you want something really absorbant and strechy like fleece or old sweat pants and then you put the fiberglass on that mold

stiperformance
04-07-2004, 03:27 PM
Here is my pictorial...

http://www.winbeam.com/~clentz/fiberglass/

ss3079
04-07-2004, 05:41 PM
Here is my pictorial...

http://www.winbeam.com/~clentz/fiberglass/

Looks great.

Nice work :)

- Steve

Jim Boom
04-25-2004, 09:46 PM
does uncured resine bond to cured resine?

Acidburn
04-27-2004, 12:14 AM
from my experience, yes

ramos
04-29-2004, 12:38 PM
does uncured resine bond to cured resine?


depends on the kind of resin. Wether it's layup or surfacing. Soooooo what kind are ya using ? :)

Jim Boom
05-04-2004, 08:10 PM
Nah Im just trying to figure all this stuff out before I think about doin it, that way in the middle of the project Im not like ****.

sumone
05-05-2004, 12:33 AM
depends on the kind of resin. Wether it's layup or surfacing. Soooooo what kind are ya using ? :)

it depends...?? what you mean when you say laup/surfacing? I got bondo resin.

ramos
05-05-2004, 02:41 PM
Well sir I mean there are different resins for different purposes. What I call layup resin some companies call laminating. It has wax in it so that when the resin starts to cure, the wax rises to the surface of the resin to seal it from the air so that it will fully cure tack free. This wax must be removed before you put your next layer on so that it will stick. What I refer to as Surfacing resin some companies call molding resin, It does not have the wax in it. :)

woofer
05-07-2004, 03:10 AM
:smokin: :evil: :needpics: i want fiberglass and more sub's

woofer
05-16-2004, 06:53 AM
:( What's That A Fg Matt

lf1047@txstate
05-24-2004, 02:37 AM
Instead of using galss cloth and a brush and "painting" on resin and applying matt that can take hours and hours if its a big project and get trickie if you are working wiht a shapley form you can buy fiberglass strands (.5 inch long) in bulk and its a quarter of the cost of chop mat. mix resin and pour in the strands of glass and mix them to a thick gelly consistancy and (with gloves on) use your hands to apply the goop like paste or putty to the inside of your form and it only takes 30 minutes and cost half the money to reinforce even a large and trickey shaoped form or an enclosure....whew that was a long sentence.

saves time and money....and....time=money

sumone
05-28-2004, 11:53 AM
hmm...good idea! where can you get just the strands? I have a hard-enough time trying to just find the matt!

ramos
05-28-2004, 12:34 PM
Fiberglast.com or you can check your yellow pages for fiberglass supplies. :)

AJ Quick
06-10-2004, 06:27 PM
I have learned so much from the other tutorials and pictures found around here. I have chronicalled my own fiberglassing expirenece in a tutorial found here:

http://www.ajquick.com/cars/tutorials/fiberglass.php

ss3079
06-10-2004, 06:29 PM
^Awesome :)

- Steve

jay99
07-29-2004, 04:51 PM
anybody know how to fiberglass a dash?

MikeofTulsa
08-06-2004, 11:03 PM
a dash would take alot of time.....but first thing you got to do is take the old dash off and then make a fram for the new one.....and make sure all the holes match up for the screws and such.....very difficult project and very time consuming

DBfan187
09-02-2004, 10:34 PM
RESIN!

It burns!

I was dumb again, didn't wear any protection as usual.

How do I get it off. It burns.:bawling:

req
09-02-2004, 11:06 PM
acetone. (it usually says "EPOXY\FIBERGLASS RESIN THINNER" under the word ACETONE that is in bold large letters.

got a huge glob of resin off my armhair in a matter of seconds. just rub it as if it were soap, and it dissolves off.

DBfan187
09-03-2004, 12:43 AM
Ah thanks. It did the trick. Just a little sticky now:D

bboybrown
10-02-2004, 03:57 PM
couldnt u just keep adding fiberglass resin to the fleece instead of using fiberglass matte. i am very new to fiberglassing, so please excuse my newbiness

UndercoverPunk
10-02-2004, 05:15 PM
couldnt u just keep adding fiberglass resin to the fleece instead of using fiberglass matte. i am very new to fiberglassing, so please excuse my newbiness
That would make it VERY brittle, the matt adds strength, not just hardness...

Nsanityownzu
11-20-2004, 03:53 AM
for the "normal cloth" you want something really absorbant and strechy like fleece or old sweat pants and then you put the fiberglass on that mold

Now according to Steve brown ( one of the makers of the Alpine Civic, RSX, and Cooper ) you should use very thin material..because thick material as a much higher chance of cracking compared to thin material...just my input :imdama:

rzhawk73
11-25-2004, 12:32 PM
couldnt u just keep adding fiberglass resin to the fleece instead of using fiberglass matte. i am very new to fiberglassing, so please excuse my newbiness
you can but you need to add a filler to it Aerosil-Cabosil works well.
i would add it to the inside of the box that way you dont need to sand as much
filler (http://www.shopmaninc.com/fillers.html)

TimberJon
12-02-2004, 12:07 PM
You should use 2-4oz fiberglass mat, and, using latex or nitrile gloves, (not medical grade) soak it in fiberglass by using a paint roller to roll resin across a piece of cardboard, then put the mat over the wet patch, and generously roll more on, then pick it up and put it where you want it. After laying 1-layer everywhere, start making 2-layer patches and place them everywhere. For a strong fiberglass job you would want a minimum of 4 layers, more if you feel its necessary. Do NOT put a little more catalyst than is told by the manufacturer of the resin kit. Ive seen guys catch their trunks on fire. Overcatalyzed resin can reach up to 500 degrees.

I strongly suggest buying Smith Fibercast resin kits. They come in small kits too for Kickpanel installs.

TimberJon
12-02-2004, 12:11 PM
I also suggest using Vulkem sealant in addition to any Dynamat or other sound dampening materials. vulkem is caulk style so you can squirt the goop anywhere you need it, and its runny enough to fill certain areas. Good for filling holes and loose areas of your trunk, behind your liscense place, around screws, to use as a barrier against moisture, for holding many layers of dynamat together, and for sealing sub enclosures. Vulkem comes in white and black colors. Nobody really knows about it because its used in construction and the petroleum industry.
Works great as a sealant. Dont fill your walls with it however, itll get heavy. Better than cilicone. Its thick and pasty, but wet, so you can smear it around with a latex glove wherever you want it. Good for making smooth transitions.

req
12-02-2004, 01:17 PM
I also suggest using Vulkem sealant in addition to any Dynamat or other sound dampening materials. vulkem is caulk style so you can squirt the goop anywhere you need it, and its runny enough to fill certain areas. Good for filling holes and loose areas of your trunk, behind your liscense place, around screws, to use as a barrier against moisture, for holding many layers of dynamat together, and for sealing sub enclosures. Vulkem comes in white and black colors. Nobody really knows about it because its used in construction and the petroleum industry.
Works great as a sealant. Dont fill your walls with it however, itll get heavy. Better than cilicone. Its thick and pasty, but wet, so you can smear it around with a latex glove wherever you want it. Good for making smooth transitions.

why not just use some kind of evercoat filler\kitty hair for smooth transitions?

i suppose it would work as a glue\sealer in a deadenening job.

mind giving a link to this stuff?

TimberJon
12-02-2004, 06:49 PM
How bout i mail ya a tube? My business uses it in production, Ive never really had to go online to try to find it..

Now ive never looked at the MSDS or the material properties, but this stuff has the consistency of liquid dynamat, and its a nasty oil-black, when it cures its tough and rubbery. And it has a low elasticity rating (from my own tests).
I usually smear this stuff to fill cracks or gaps, and then on the interior of boxes, coat with pure resin.

astroboy
01-13-2005, 09:16 PM
hi, i have a an van and i am trying to find a way to mount 5x7 in holes for 4x6 in the back pillars. i cant just cut a bigger hole because it is kinda on a coner and i dont have enough room behind the pillars. is there a way that i could fiberglass on the plastic so i dont have to make a whole new panel?

ANeonRider
01-13-2005, 10:15 PM
hi, i have a an van and i am trying to find a way to mount 5x7 in holes for 4x6 in the back pillars. i cant just cut a bigger hole because it is kinda on a coner and i dont have enough room behind the pillars. is there a way that i could fiberglass on the plastic so i dont have to make a whole new panel?

Yes, take that plastic peice and follow this procedure:

1. Cut a baffle for the 5x7 (I'd dump the 5x7 idea and go with a 5.25" or 6.5" component set or at least co-axials though)
2. Using hot glue, attach the baffle to the plastic (use your imagination to mount it the way you want it)
3. Take some fleece, and stretch it over the baffle and hot glue it to the plastic piece.
4. Apply resin to the fleece.
5. Follow normal fibreglassing procedure to continue.

astroboy
01-13-2005, 10:44 PM
well i am doing the 5x7's because vans come with 8 speakers. 6 1/2's in the back doors, 4x6's (which i am changing) and 5's in the front doors and 3's in the front doors.

TimberJon
01-14-2005, 11:33 AM
Like he said, 5.25" Coaxials will work in your situation.
The fiberglassing will be strange your first time.
There MAY, keyword MAY be molded panels for the Astro that accepts a variety of speaker sizes. I know this because they make them for MY car and dozens of others, and i KNOW there is an enormous support for Astro vans. Try searching and asking around for plastic speaker panels. You might even find one NOT for your Astro that will fit in the back just right.

Always try the bootleg way first =) It might work.

astroboy
01-21-2005, 08:48 PM
thanks for the help i finshed it tuesday night they look alright be sides the grilles i tried to cut the up and make then kinda flush it worked but the look crapy i am just gonna get some grill like material and work with it see what happens i will get pics when i am done

NJack2AF
05-24-2005, 09:32 PM
WOW this thread is great! I want to start doing fiberglassing so bad, this will help me a lot! I want to build some pods over the stock 5x7 locations in my front doors that will hold some XXX mids ;)

RFmustang
06-07-2005, 09:25 PM
http://www.detroitcustomconcepts.com/showroom/files/big_img423068535c5ba.jpg
how would you do something like that? would that whole piece be fiberglass? or is fiberglasss not even used? thanks

req
06-07-2005, 10:21 PM
basically, i would take out the stock console. then fabricate up a piece made of ABS plastic sheets and special plastic glue that chemically bonds it together, then glue it all together to fit that area. useing a special ABS plastic filler (again, the chemical bond), you fill the areas that are low, and make the smooth contours with some rough sandpaper - much like how you would make a figure from clay... but a little different ;)

then you keep sanding, and painting and mount all the stuf, and put it in after its paintmatched :)

check it out - www.hzemall.com - they sell the 'plastic filler' stuff, and they have quite a few walkthroughs. look at the MAZDA6 - and you will understand.

RFmustang
06-08-2005, 09:49 AM
where else could i get that "plastic filler" stuff? (cause his store is down)

req
06-08-2005, 09:55 AM
3M Duramix 40\40 works well, but its more expensive, and you need a special caulking gun for it. there are other products - but ive not looked into it extensivly.

the stuff from hzemall works great and is cheaper. email tim (the owner) @ info@hzemall.com - or post on his forums.

ABS plastic is just a type of plastic, kinda rigid and lightweight. but you definatly wanna use some kind of chemical-bond glue (it basically melts the plasic together chemically) or it wont be very strong.

heres a link to that dash moulding install i was talking about;

http://www.hzemall.com/our_gallery/installs_misc/mazda_3_dash/mazda.htm

RFmustang
06-08-2005, 01:51 PM
yeah i saw that one and a few others where he mounted lcds. i am very much inspired to redo my fiberglassing with this stuff

req
06-08-2005, 02:02 PM
yea - its much much eaiser.

i only use fiberglassing when i need somthing sealed, or i need a large curve. if im just 'filleting' somthing small (like a tweeter mount on an Apillar) then i just fill it and sand it.. glassing\stretching is a waste of time for sure.

Raven
07-05-2005, 03:49 PM
Fiberglass tip: Avoid plastic cups

I don't know if it's been mentioned before, but working on my first kickpanel, the plastic cup holding the resin started to deteriorate. The resin ate through the cup and started to spill resin across my floor. UNWAXED paper cups = teh win.

ruckus
07-05-2005, 04:05 PM
Fiberglass tip: Avoid plastic cups

I don't know if it's been mentioned before, but working on my first kickpanel, the plastic cup holding the resin started to deteriorate. The resin ate through the cup and started to spill resin across my floor. UNWAXED paper cups = teh win.
lol I found that out on my first kick panel lucky for me I had aluminum foil on my floor so it acted as a bowl catching everything. the paper painters 1 1/2 quart buckets work perfect for me cause I only mix 1 quart at a time.

yamaman
07-15-2005, 10:38 AM
Hi there I have some last minute questions before I start to make my fiberglass sub box. Ok I was wandering say afer I have one layer of fiberglass on does the next layer or layers have to be layed right afterwards or say I am gone for a weekend and I only have 1 layer on and I want to do lots more can't it wait those 3 days till I get back to put another layer of fiberglass on it?? I hope this makes sense thanx for your time

Car Trekker
07-31-2005, 07:04 AM
Ported Door Panels , 2000 Cavalier....How I did it.
http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=109895

UndercoverPunk
08-01-2005, 11:54 AM
Copied from my other thread per Tommyboy

OK, so you wanna build some pods? Here's a couple thing you may want to consider...

Cardboard template: MAKES LIFE 50X EASIER... Make a duplicate of your baffle and mount it to your rear mold IN CAR, this will help you so much with aiming. Cardboard is probably 15 times easier to mount and aim than a full MDF baffle.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/2258/jul310019sr.th.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jul310019sr.jpg)
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9995/jul310022ri.th.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jul310022ri.jpg)
If it's late out that's no excuse not to work, you don't need saws to cut your dowels, just use something else.... I like to use my 'wire cutters'.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/2139/jul310037gx.th.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jul310037gx.jpg)
After you mount your cardboard baffle, bring it inside and measure for your dowels. Just find the total length at a given point and then subtract 3/4" to make up for the thickness of your real baffle.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/336/jul310046jn.th.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jul310046jn.jpg)
When you're gluing in your dowels you can make thing a TON easier if you're using hot glue. Rather than sitting there for 5 minutes holding each rod waiting for the glue to dry, invest in a can of compressed air. Glue the dowel, flip the can over and spray that liquid all over the glue, that'll cool it down in seconds.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/715/jul310059ip.th.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jul310059ip.jpg)
OVER BRACE YOUR BAFFLES: There is NOTHING worse than having your baffle collapse while you're in the middle of stretching your fabric, or even worse... while your resin is curing.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/7259/jul310063bj.th.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jul310063bj.jpg)

I hope this helps a few people.

negativezeroz
10-09-2005, 08:10 PM
fiberglass resin + open cut/wound = pain :(

Found a good way to get resin off your hands : Little bit of Comet and little bit of Soft Gel. It burns a tad but it worked for me. Some is left on me but nothing compared to what it started as.

PowerNaudio
10-15-2005, 10:11 AM
silicone gloves and an old long sleeve shirt works for me, for keeping fiberglass off of the body.
lol

12VoltInstaller
11-04-2005, 04:07 AM
These are THE BEST for cleanup of resin on hands in arm hair, off carpet, off clothes.....I think they are commonly called scrubs in a bucket....they are a citrus based cleanup wipe that are kinda pinkish purple....they generally clean your hands without water very well too. You know the goo that you get from old electrical tape when you just got done pulling out an old alarm from somones car....they work for that too! Clean tools, anything that gets resin on it for sure.

Ive used a different branded product Presented by Pilkington, a glass company...apparently the scrubs in a bucket are blue, but have very similar properties to the Pilkington version I have used first hand. Trust me, its worth the $10-15 for the first time you can actually clean off your arm after it starts burning!

Woodmister
12-30-2005, 08:10 PM
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/836385

blue93corsica
02-06-2006, 11:39 PM
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/836385


just looked through all of that, very nice install man

Rebel_J
03-30-2006, 08:28 AM
[QUOTE=John P.]I have over 100 pics of the process here that you might find helpful:/QUOTE

Very nice and informative..Thanks!

phantom240
04-11-2006, 11:00 PM
yeah i too found that fiberglass resin rapes plastic cups... got resin all over the driveway... okay not that much, but my dad was pretty mad.

Has anyone tried to make rear baffles for door speakers in a 240sx? or anything is a 240sx with fiberglass?

phantom240
04-11-2006, 11:00 PM
I wanted to do some stuff with my door speakers, and when i made the original, and went to fasten it (with resin and fiberglass) it wouldnt fit in the door anymore, so i took a die grinder and tried to take off any excess causing it not to fit, but it *****... im gonna take a different approach to the situation... any suggestions?

phantom240
04-11-2006, 11:01 PM
**** microsoft

phantom240
04-11-2006, 11:01 PM
God **** microsoft Internet explorer... can a mod delete these last 3 posts?

temperedcore
05-02-2006, 06:14 PM
I didn't notice this link in here so I'll post it. They are much cheaper than a lot of places and you can get larger volumes and different types.

http://uscomposites.com/index.html

LoudCrownVic
05-24-2006, 03:50 PM
Just loked through most of the tutorials, gonna start on my first set of pods soon :) Looks like an interesting process.

taosd
07-06-2006, 11:08 PM
Do I need to get resin with wax in it? I talked to my cousin, who works at a boat shop, and he mentioned that I would need resin with wax in it. Why is this?

NMBR1SPT
07-12-2006, 10:56 PM
correct me if I'm wrong to fiberglass my dash and door panels... all I need to do is sand lightly wipe it with acetone and put resin and then a thin layer of fiber sand then resin till smooth..... same for door panels and roof liner????

nYc.kablamO
08-09-2006, 01:43 PM
I found the easiest way to do a glass job is with rollers. I found them at a marine supply store out here (for you guys that dont like ordering). The fiberglass roller has little bristles that permeate the glass and take out the air bubbles. It kind of makes the layers 'tighter' also. Theyre available in all different sizes and small stuff for contours etc. theyre reusable too.
Witht he right tools youll cut your work time in half and end up with a better quality piece. I used to dab the paint brush and guesstimate by resin/mekp mixture too. Now I use a big plastic pitcher with a lid and spout, mix the resin using one of those harderer bottles so i get the right ratio (cmon who hasnt mixed it too hot and ended up with a cup of jelly and a half done layer i have!)..then pour with one hand and roll with the other. Alot less mess and alot less time.
with the filling part i like to spread on like 1/4" of duraglass (fiberglass putty, short strand). I dont mix it hot because if it hardens right away you cant file it. A putty file is only tool that should be used to knock down the filler. Anything else and the piece will look wavy. for those that dont like ordering you can find them at autozone, pep boys etc.

Frankensuby
11-21-2006, 07:22 PM
K, I need help.

I'm in the middle of an enclosure build, and I should be ready to fiberglass by tomorrow night. I am building a 75% MDF enclosure, and I need to use fiberglass to allow the rest of the box to sit flush with the walls of my trunk. How do I go about applying the fiberglass to the box? What special things should I do...IE....do I need to sand the edges by the hole I am going to fiberglass, or do I need to use a structure like chicken wiring to make a specific shape? Is it a bad idea to leave air inbetween the box and the fiberglass shell, even when the enclosure is sealed?

Thanks for any help,

~Levi

BassAddictJ
01-02-2007, 04:08 PM
for something simple like some basic kick pods or (what i plan on trying to do with my first fiberglassing project ever) making a case for a 7 inch LCD that the old case vroke for, how much would supplies cost me (ballpark guess)?

krstofer
01-22-2007, 02:22 PM
http://web.njit.edu/%7Ecas1383/proj/main/ --- bad link

http://www.caraudioresources.net/technical.html --- looks like domain parking

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/glassing/--- bad link

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/fibrglas.htm --- bad link


http://www.geocities.com/stevebang2000/car-audio.html --- Looks like this site only sells custom kits not how to make them.


Out of the links in the first post, it looks like this one is the best.

http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

Might want to update the post. Thanks for the links.

PowerNaudio
01-22-2007, 04:00 PM
http://www.geocities.com/stevebang2000/car-audio.html --- Looks like this site only sells custom kits not how to make them.


Out of the links in the first post, it looks like this one is the best.

[url]http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

Might want to update the post. Thanks for the links.

on this link http://www.geocities.com/stevebang2000/car-audio.html
the guy is also providing a couple steps by steps of the proses he uses to get the enclosure to a finish product so it may provide a source for ideas on how to build enclosures for the more advanced.

phantom240
03-16-2007, 08:50 AM
It doesnt. You need glass to apply glass.

PowerNaudio
03-16-2007, 10:21 AM
how does applying fiberglass onto an mdf box without mat or clothe work

did you mean "how does applying resin onto an mdf box without mat or cloth works?"

if yes, then you justs mix with the proper ration of hardner to resin, then using a brush or roller, apply it to the enclosure or mdf panel, just like you would on to fiberglass mat or other surfaces or materials.

fiberglass= A material made of extremely fine glass fibers. formed into mat, cloth, power, etc.....

resin= A thermosetting resin that is made of an unsaturated polyester and often used in reinforcing Fiaberglass and laminating

if you mean the string or powder fiberglass, you need a special gun for the string fiberglass that will tear the fiberglass up at the same time it sprayes it on to the work area.
the fiberglass powder or beads, "i forgot the actual name" can be mixed with resin and applyed with a brushed or rolled on the work area. mostly used as a filler to increase density.
"there allot more detailed info on the subject,if you just google your question for more results"

somekook
03-29-2007, 09:25 AM
http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

yea this is the most helpfull link i saw on this thread.


also, in the body shop i work at, and prety much all body shops, they use this plastic sheeting stuff, to protect a window or what have you from dust and sparks and **** flying into the car. that plastic masking works like awesome for laying down on your trunk floor or wherever youre about to apply fiberglass (instead of blue painters tape or masking tape). i dont know if a whole lot of people use this method yet, but theyre about to. test your plastic sheeting first to make sure resin doesnt eat through it.... that would ****.

nate2587
04-03-2007, 01:09 AM
Since the other one disappeared......Feel free to post links.....no coments needed....just links please....please check for dead links and make sure they have not already been posted....thanks

http://web.njit.edu/%7Ecas1383/proj/main/

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/the1wagsjlguy

http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/

http://www.caraudioresources.net/technical.html

http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=338498

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/jeep98

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/glassing/

http://www.geocities.com/stevebang2000/car-audio.html

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/fibrglas.htm

also my site...hope to have some glassing links on there soon...

http://www.sounddomain.com/id/goddyd4me

below is a quick and easy way to make a circle jig for a router.....for perfect circles its a must....

http://images.cardomain.com/member_img_a/254000-254999/254787_61_full.jpg

enjoy

lots of links are dead on this thread

Drunkship
04-22-2007, 07:50 PM
Hello, my buddy wants to put a subwoofer in his car and wants it to be as light as possible while looking hidden.

I suggested fiberglassing the spare tire well and puttin' the sub in there. Are there any links (a lot of links in these 6 pages are dead) showing how to go about doing this, step-by-step?

Also, would doing that be a lot lighter than having a regular sealed/ported enclosure?

The last question I have is, how would we go about giving the subwoofer the right amount of volume? With a regular enclosure you can just measure L x W x H, so we'd have to find the volume of a half circle (4/3 x pi x r / 2)?

Zakerid
05-06-2007, 09:43 AM
don't know if this link was posted but it is a great tutorial
http://www.gadrivers.net/~dwicker/fiberglass.html

UpNCommin
05-21-2007, 08:47 PM
i got everthing but once u guys said BAFFLE.. i was baffled.. .lol can anyone tell me what A baffle is?? also to fiberglass the dash wouldnt it juss be easy sand the plastic and then juss lay a fleece on top of that, hot glue it to the edges and then fiberglass away???

theycallmecrash
09-08-2007, 09:17 AM
what is all involved in making a glass dash?

dwman
09-11-2007, 09:39 PM
great thread!!

were can i buy fleece or whatever i can use to make my shape? i would like to just buy local so i dont got to order

i want to try and my a custom center council any links or any help?

tRidiot
09-11-2007, 09:40 PM
Wal-Mart, as well as most fabric stores carry fleece.

audiofreak22
12-16-2007, 09:28 PM
what will i need to do just cover a fully made box. im new to all this. thanks for the help.

req
12-16-2007, 10:13 PM
did you even bother to read any of the tutorials?

jesus.

PowerNaudio
12-16-2007, 10:14 PM
what will i need to do just cover a fully made box. im new to all this. thanks for the help.

youll need enough fiberglass and resin to cover the enclosure enough times to make a difference. use either the mat or the cloth type fiberglass. and the generic resin should be fine. experiment using the resin and applying the fiberglass on a scrap piece of mdf so you can get a feel of how to do it. and then work on your enclosure.

audiofreak22
12-17-2007, 12:20 PM
thanks

audiofreak22
12-17-2007, 12:41 PM
can i just wrap the box with fleece and cover that with the resin. or do i need the fiberglass cloth.

tyler_ofspain
12-20-2007, 07:12 PM
You should check out fiberglassforums.com and you can find pretty much anything you wanna know about fiberglass

Mirage_Man
01-28-2008, 07:36 PM
http://www.fiberglassforums.com/showthread.php?t=4117

808_bass
02-13-2008, 03:25 AM
I have over 100 pics of the process here that you might find helpful:
TT Audio mk.II (http://www.sounddomain.com/memberpage/493978/1)
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_80.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_82.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_68.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_69.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_76.jpghttp://images.cardomain.com/member_images/1/web/493000-493999/493978_111.jpg

how did he get the top mdf assembly attached to the back wall of the box which was only fiberglass? since he cant put screws into it, how did he hold the top on?

trashedxj
06-29-2008, 03:22 PM
fiber glass will mold to MDF and a few other woods, mdf will "absorb" resin so to speak thus bonding them together in a way!

LiMarc
08-16-2008, 03:01 AM
What kind of tape or orther material should i use to tape off an area that is carpet??

phantom240
08-16-2008, 12:22 PM
What kind of tape or orther material should i use to tape off an area that is carpet??

Masking tape works well if you use about 3 layers, going in different directions with each layer.

LiMarc
08-17-2008, 07:58 AM
Thanks, it won't leak eat through to the carpet right?

smiley2186
09-18-2008, 08:10 AM
where can i buy fiberglass resin 1 gallon for cheap? im in san diego ca

gangstajpimpin
10-23-2008, 06:47 PM
www.uscomposites.com

bout 35/gal

bad03ranger
12-17-2009, 05:09 AM
Can i glass my MDF enclosure?

Do i wrap the enclosure in fleece then glass or can i just spread body filler over it and smooth it down and paint it

j1b1e1
12-21-2009, 11:32 PM
Old threads crash and burn. Only one link still works on the first page. Anyone got any good site for fiberglass. I'm trying to shed some weight and gain some box volume for my two 13w7's in my trunk... Thanks!

BassMechkanic
12-21-2009, 11:48 PM
post 106

FLYONWALL9@AOL.
12-24-2009, 03:04 AM
Old threads crash and burn. Only one link still works on the first page. Anyone got any good site for fiberglass. I'm trying to shed some weight and gain some box volume for my two 13w7's in my trunk... Thanks!

Though I have only built only about 30 or so parts for cars out of fiberglass I can speak from an educated boat builders perspective. I have read through most of this thread and I gotta say, most of the techniques will work I wouldn't call them proper fiberglass techniques from my perspective. If you really want to know how to properly lay up fiberglass you should read
http://www.bateau2.com/howto/epoxy_basics.php

you say you want to shed some weight? Well, I am going to go against the grain in saying this but here goes...... and this is how I build all my fiberglass parts and I will build my next enclosure using this method. Because I have a light weight sports car, adding a 100lb subwoofer enclosure is out of the question! I'll kind of do a step by step which will use no fasteners.

In weight savings you don't need to use 1/2 or thicker MDF, you simply need to build a "composite" enclosure. You will want to use 1/4" high grade ply. What your looking for is as few voids as possible. You know those football biscuits you see in plywood, well that was once a void in the lamination. High grade plywood will have 5 or more layers, this link is for example purpose only: http://plywood.boatbuildercentral.com/

Your likely going to make the baffle out of fiberglass with only wooden rings, the sides and bottom will likely be made of ply. So, make all your cuts, lay out the box as if you were about to put screws in it; only drill 1/8" holes about every 4 to 6" apart and about 1/2" from the boards edge. You will then simply use zip ties, cable ties, copper wire, or fishing wire to "stitch" the box together LOOSELY. GAPS ARE GOOD!!! I would look for a gap no less than 1/8" what you can do is use your drill bit as a spacer, or popsicle sticks work great. Once you have the box stitched up your going to mix a paste of epoxy and a filler to the consistency of peanut butter. You want it to be ferm so that it will hold its shape. Using a ziplock bag, cut the corner and squeeze out the mixture between each cable tie. Then shape to make an inside radius. You can make a custom tool out of paint sticks, or use a tongue depressor. Once your "fillet" dries enough so it still can be shaped you can then pull out the ties and fill all the gaps around the inside. Your looking for about a 1/2" radius. You can put tape each side of the joint before putting in your epoxy and filler so that clean up will be much easier. Once its dry just pull up the tape.

Structural fillets should be made of wood flour or milled glass fiber. I like wood flour its as strong as nails, VERY hard to sand, holds its shape well.
http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_woo_1lb

Now that your fillets have dried you can then use fiberglass tape. I like 6" biaxial 6oz or heavier. I use an over lap lay-up, that is; 4" of the tape will be on one side 2 on the other side of the joint. Your next layer will then be 4" over the top of the first 2" and 2" over the 4." YOU DO NOT, have to wait for your fillet to dry completely. You can work "wet on wet" once the fillet is tacky your ready to lay tape. Wet your fiberglass out.

NOW here is where I'm going to get flamed. YOU DO NOT have to saturate the cloth. Pour little pools of resin onto your fiberglass tape. Using a squeegee PUSH the resin into the cloth. This will push out any bubbles and bed the fiberglass into the plywood. What your looking for is a wet gauze look. The fiberglass weave will not be filled at this point! This joint will have a peal strength 100 times stronger than the fiberglass work your used to seeing.

Still working wet on wet and on the inside of the box your going to lay one layer of wide fabric. It will be the width of the panel from your fillet to the boxes edge. You can use one continuous piece, starting at one corner and going all the way around the box back to your starting corner. Let me back up a second. You can go ahead and glass the back of the box then do the sides. Again I like 6oz or better biaxial fiber glass http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_bias_1708

Using the same method as with the tape. Pour little pools of resin onto the panel your working with and push the resin into the fiberglass. Again, your looking for something that looks like wet gauze, and your weave WILL NOT be filled with this lay up. Once this process has fully dried and within 24 hours your going to mix a slurry of resin and a filler. Your wanting to build a light weight box so use "MICRO BALLOONS" http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_mic_.25lb
The consistency your looking for is ketchup or mayonnaise. Pour that into pools and push it into the weave but only this time your filling the weave. You will only be able to work on one panel at a time until its dry enough that it does not run or sag.

By this time you will have the inside of the box completely laid up. You can now move to the outside of the box and use the same lay-up schedule as the inside. You can also at this time mold your baffle into or onto the boxes face. Also, this type of enclosure should use dividers or interior supports.

Now I assure you that building an enclosure as described above will not only be less weight but MUCH stronger than using 1/2 or greater MDF. I believe in it so much so that I would be willing to pay a bounty if proven other wise. IF the fiberglass lay-up is per the above directions.

I've seen on every car audio board the improper use of resins. Even if you don't build a box as per the above directions; if you just use the method for wetting out your materials you will not only use FAR less resin but the end results will be a much stronger product.


DISCLAIMER: I take various medications, due to which if any misspellings and punctuation's are found get over it..... lol... I do hope this helps someone, if nothing more than to save people money on using the proper amounts of materials. Lets stop these over saturated fiberglass lay-ups. Again, the links provided are for materials description only and not meant to be an ad. I have however, purchased many thousands of dollars worth of fiberglass and resins from them. They are fine people.

godhatescivics
12-24-2009, 04:14 AM
http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo213/andrewsowinski/bananaflash.gif

j1b1e1
01-04-2010, 08:23 PM
Wow, lots of info... I'll read it in the morning. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GI JOEY
01-07-2010, 12:24 PM
how would you secure a 3/4 mdf box to a fiberglass bottom? Not sure how to attach the fiberglass.

nineball
01-07-2010, 01:39 PM
more fiberglass

FLYONWALL9@AOL.
01-07-2010, 01:42 PM
your going to need to make both surfaces mate together
as closely as possible. If they don't touch then your going
to need a glue or bed of resin to sink it into. To make said
glue:D...

I'm guessing we are talking about polyester resin? Your
going to need a thickening agent like, milled fiberglass fiber,
micro balloons, or a very strong glue made of epoxy and
wood flour. The factor which determines is what is the dis-
tance between the bottom of the board and fiberglass? This
will determine how thick and what the glue will be made of...

If the surfaces mate together with very little gap then I would
use milled fiberglass fibers mixed with resin. Make a nice bed of
the mixture and set the MDF into it. Then you can glass over it.

If you would like, you can PM me or mail @ flyonwall9@aol.com
I can supply you with links with a step by step. If I can find them
through WEST SYSTEM web site.

I hope I was able to help

BassMechkanic
01-12-2010, 12:34 PM
you can also use saw dust, mix that into your resin, makes it thicker like a paste, after that sets then put a couple layers of matt and resin

nineball
01-12-2010, 01:12 PM
you can also use saw dust, mix that into your resin, makes it thicker like a paste, after that sets then put a couple layers of matt and resin


i would use duraglass before that

GI JOEY
01-15-2010, 08:12 PM
How many layers do you think I should do? I am only doing the bottom of the enclosure in fiberglass, I have read 7 and I have read it depends on the size of the box and the subs your running. Since it is the bottom it will have addtional support from the floor of the truck. I have also seen that you get higher spl numbers from a box that flexes a little.

nineball
01-15-2010, 08:54 PM
you have seen wrong. flex is your enemy. you need enough fg so that you have NO flex. if you can stand on the fg section and it flexes you need more.

GI JOEY
01-17-2010, 08:50 PM
Well the box is solid as hell. It is about 55 inches wide and I can barely get it to budge by lifting one side and pushing down on the middle. This is about 7 layers and 2.5 gallons of resin. With the rest of the box/ mdf it should make the bottom even more rigid. I used the bottom and top layers with fiberglass cloth and the middle layers are fiberglas matt. Its about 1/3 inch thick as of now.

Think this is enough?

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power-fanatic07
11-29-2010, 09:01 PM
great thread!!

were can i buy fleece or whatever i can use to make my shape? i would like to just buy local so i dont got to order

i want to try and my a custom center council any links or any help?

I lol'd. I'd like to know what a center council is. Great thread though, going to be starting my doors tomorrow and I've been doing some research.

flatland
02-14-2011, 08:58 AM
Here's the problem. READ READ READ what is left out there to read!

My trade has been in the body shop buiness for almost 20 years, I can can tell you that there is always another technique that someone will show you. Read all of them, and if you run into a rut , you always can go back a step to fix your issue. Yes, sometimes you will have to start over , but the majority of the time , you should be ok.

Now , I've never worked on a corvette before, or even remotely messed with making a fiberglass encloser up till about 2 weeks ago , yet, I have used duraglass for years and know how to mix it correctly, and apply it to what I'm working on without a mess, and any issues.

There seems to be this big stigmatism about doing any sort of fiberglass encloser , or work in a cars interior application. Trust me! It isn't. If you use common sence and follow all the directions on how to apply each and every step you will have ABSOLUTELY no problems. (Again READ READ READ!)


**also worth a note: if you are asking how to fiberglass a dash, yet have not done any work on any sort of trim pannel / kick pannel / sub encloser etc etc DON'T!

*off to work on some stuff no spell check*

subzero
03-01-2012, 03:19 AM
can we get some updated glass links?

408
04-06-2012, 12:30 AM
Yeah, most of the links are no longer working.

butterMilk
07-12-2012, 05:35 PM
This one helped me a lil bit.

taping & molding (http://chris.pfharlock.com/glass/tapemoldpop.htm)