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View Full Version : first time building a wall, need tips



kingisback06
12-03-2008, 03:13 PM
well i got a 02 trailblazer, 2 15in. l7's and a power acoustik ps1-5500 amp. i think its sounds alright at the moment but it seems to me that alot of the air pressure is escaping out of the back glass window hatch no matter how hard i try to seal it more.

so the plan is to build a wall to keep the bass all in from the back seats to the the windshield. and basically make the airspace in the car smaller.

i just need some tips on doing this for the first time. keep the sub enclosure at 8 cubes tuned to 34hz still? and w/e other info you can throw my way

pioneerpimp
12-03-2008, 03:15 PM
better amp

kingisback06
12-03-2008, 03:22 PM
better amp

well yea i know that lol, it shall be here in a week or so i wanna get the wall done by tuesday

WildSebring
12-03-2008, 03:26 PM
I to am also tackling my first wall in my Sebring....gonna require a **** load of bracing, and I'm going to double up all my pieces, and triple the baffle.

I'm building inside the car, so building this wall is a little more of a pain in the ***..:verymad:

Just take your time and do not rush anything..:)

Upzaw2000
12-03-2008, 03:32 PM
im doing my first wall soon, bustin out the hhr. GOOD LUCK!

mlstrass
12-03-2008, 03:33 PM
Just silicone the window/rear door shut if you're only reason is to prevent air from escaping.

I've done 2 walls so far; one built outside the car and one built inside. If possible build the box outside the car as it's WAY easier.

And an 8cube box won't need a ton of bracing just because it's a "wall", so no reason to go overboard.

mlstrass
12-03-2008, 03:36 PM
I to am also tackling my first wall in my Sebring....gonna require a **** load of bracing, and I'm going to double up all my pieces, and triple the baffle.

I'm building inside the car, so building this wall is a little more of a pain in the ***..:verymad:

Just take your time and do not rush anything..:)

I did a temp 12cube wall last year and used baltic birch with some 2x4's on the outside of the box for bracing. Did a double baffle with 2x2 bracing on the back side of it and one piece tying the front to back. Had ZERO flexing and all walls were single thickness. Proper bracing is MUCH stronger then double/triple panels...

WildSebring
12-03-2008, 04:05 PM
I did a temp 12cube wall last year and used baltic birch with some 2x4's on the outside of the box for bracing. Did a double baffle with 2x2 bracing on the back side of it and one piece tying the front to back. Had ZERO flexing and all walls were single thickness. Proper bracing is MUCH stronger then double/triple panels...


Well I'm using MDF, so I want to ensure that I have 0 flexing of the box..I'ma make it overboard that way in the future when I upgrade from the SAZ 1500's back to the SAZ 3000's, I already have my proper bracing and thickness in place..

Idk, I just do things a little overboard.. :cool:

JEXTEL
12-03-2008, 05:42 PM
go SLOW think clearly and dont let home depot cut your wood!

mlstrass
12-03-2008, 08:45 PM
Well I'm using MDF, so I want to ensure that I have 0 flexing of the box..I'ma make it overboard that way in the future when I upgrade from the SAZ 1500's back to the SAZ 3000's, I already have my proper bracing and thickness in place..

Idk, I just do things a little overboard.. :cool:

I was also concerned about weight and a bunch of sheets of MDF adds up in a hurry, especially in a car as they don't have a heavy duty suspension. Add in subs, amps, and a bank of batts and you've got sag city :crazy:

Do BB if you can afford it as it's MUCH stronger then MDF and a lot lighter.

What subs you going to run and what size enclosure?