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Bow94z
12-01-2008, 11:15 PM
I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima, going to be tearing my stock bose system out

What im going to be puttin in is Alpine cda9811 H/u, 2 12" Sony Xplod subs w/ a 300W Kenwood.

I already have a Pioneer GM-4300F amp basically a 40x4.

Im looking at Components and I think i wanna go with the Eclipse SC6500 components up front that are 75 watts rms. Question is, am i pissin up a rope pushin 40 watts to this component set?

i would then like to put the Eclipse Se6500 3way coax speakers for the rear deck.

What do you think?

Thanks guys, I look forward to this board:cool:

Simek4life
12-01-2008, 11:18 PM
I'll be the first one to say get rid of the xplodezzz. they are horrible subs and you are going to get your *** ripped apart for posting that btw.

FurbiesAndBeans
12-01-2008, 11:19 PM
I'll be the first one to say get rid of the xplodezzz. they are horrible subs and you are going to get your *** ripped apart for posting that btw.

x2

Bow94z
12-01-2008, 11:23 PM
I kno the Xplods do ****, i got them free from work and had them in my last car. Whatever i save the money for my Z28 so thats why im goin "cheap" with my dd. otheriwse i'd get nicer subs.

Anyways what im asking is, Are these components gonna sound any good with 40watts?:cool:

Johnny Law.Lulz
12-01-2008, 11:24 PM
lol

Simek4life
12-01-2008, 11:35 PM
I kno the Xplods do ****, i got them free from work and had them in my last car. Whatever i save the money for my Z28 so thats why im goin "cheap" with my dd. otheriwse i'd get nicer subs.

Anyways what im asking is, Are these components gonna sound any good with 40watts?:cool:

Yes they should sound good off of 40 watts. Obviously, you are not going to be getting full potential out of them since they can handle up to a rated 75 watts rms. I'm sure they will be loud enough to hear over your xplodez. :laugh:

Bow94z
12-31-2008, 10:15 AM
anyone else have an opinion running Components @ 40rms? Sc6500's are rated at 75rms

bamaster
12-31-2008, 11:06 AM
Well, 75 watts is the maximum RMS. So sure, they will run fine off 40 RMS. What is the peak of the Kenwood amp?

It'll sound fine. Go for it.

djman37
12-31-2008, 11:10 AM
bridge the pioneer to 100x2 and you're set.

Bow94z
12-31-2008, 12:05 PM
bridge the pioneer to 100x2 and you're set.
I thought about that aswell, but i wanted to power the rear SE6500 speakers aswell.

i guess im just being cheap and dont want to buy another amp when i have this gm-4300F sittin around
I'll try it out see how it works

Echo42987
12-31-2008, 12:05 PM
bridge the pioneer to 100x2 and you're set.

I woudl do this for sure if you don't buy the rear speakers.

If you buy the rears then yeah it'll sound fine. That extra bit of juice will give your speakers the proper amount of response for them to get moving. So do it and enjoy it :)

Bow94z
12-31-2008, 12:10 PM
now my crossovers have jumpers on it i noticed, they are at defaulted in the middle i can either go +3db or -3db shouldi leave at default of 0 i believe? what does this change

fishpro
12-31-2008, 03:00 PM
now my crossovers have jumpers on it i noticed, they are at defaulted in the middle i can either go +3db or -3db shouldi leave at default of 0 i believe? what does this change

That changes the level of the tweeter. The basic rule is the further the tweeter is from you or the mid the higher you go....but it all depends on sound and thats up to you. As far as you speakers you have two options, either get more efficient speakers, like Blaupunkts or some othe comps with lower power handling or bridge the amp and run the back speakers off the head unit. If you run the fronts off 40 watts the tendency is to turn up the gain and what you really want is headroom(more power than the speaker is rated for).....Good Luck

djman37
12-31-2008, 03:17 PM
how about this...power the rears off the HU.

eharri3
12-31-2008, 03:18 PM
I ran Eclipse SC8362s which need about 100 watts off of 35, then 75, then 60 and also at one point ran 80 watt front coaxial speakers off the 35 watt amp. Never had a problem. It's all about whether it's gonna give you the loudness level you need to appreciate the clarity and detail of the music without playing funny tricks with the gain or turning the volume up past where your head unit still puts out a clear signal and your amp puts out clean power. A speaker's RMS rating isn't really an absolute indication of what it needs or what it can handle under normal listening conditions, but rather how strong of a flat test tone it can handle continuously without catching fire. It's a general reference point to determine how much abuse it can handle. I wouldn't underpower even the most sensitive speaker by more than half but I would consider overpowering a really good high end one by 100 or 150%.

BTW powering rears off the HU is a good idea. If you get everything wired in and don't like how it sounds Id do this and give yourself an easy doubling of power to your front stage without buying another amp. Im now running 140 watts on a bridged 4 channel to my 125 watt Hertz HSKs, which are actually more sensitive than the speakers I used to run underpowered. The deck runs my Infinity Reference rears. I now rarely have to go above 24 or 25 on the Head unit whereas before with some music I had to be close to 29 or 30 to get sufficient loudness. I figured why run so much power to rear speakers if I always ended up trying to attenuate them to the point that their presence wasn't so obvious to me anyway.

I am now a firm believer that in most SQ applications amplifier power is wasted on rear speakers. Doesn't mean I don't like rear fill, but I don't think it needs to be high dollar and I don't believe amplifier power should be wasted on it that could be better used for the front stage.

Are you even able to clearly explain why powering the rear speakers with an amp is so important to you?

jeff33702
01-11-2009, 10:23 PM
TTT on this, as I too have a similar setup....er...building a similar setup.

Kenwood DNX8120
JL 300/4v2
Morel Tempo 6 up front
unknown rear door speakers (just woofers, as I want to extract some lows from the rear speakers - I'm not going to have a sub for a little while).

Originally, I thought I would just run it in 4ch mode but as I read on, 75w/ch on a passive crossover sounds like it's going to be too little. Should I do the same thing you are suggesting above? Bridge the amp and run the rear off the HU? I like that I will still have some kind of fade contol like this...

thx
Jeff

jeff33702
01-11-2009, 10:49 PM
updated.

C3 Customs
01-12-2009, 04:59 AM
...... Question is, am i pissin up a rope pushin 40 watts to this component set?

....

You are not pissing up a rope depending on where you locate the components, if you try different mounting locations with the 40 watts on the comps and you will find that they sound better to you in various locations.

z0n3d0u7
01-12-2009, 10:57 PM
Sorry to go a lil off topic, But, What do you guys mean by bridging the amp? running the two sets of componets input wire together to the amp, and bridging them to two channels? Or do you guys mean bridging channel's 1&2 to left, 3&4 to right?

Reason i ask, Is i was gonna wire my Rear fill [ID OEM's] in with my front stage [ID CTX65CS] down to 2 ohm's on an Orion 4002. Would you guys recommend this, Or wiring them to my DUAL indash? [I know, i should duck for cover now. It suites my needs for a decent price for now.] Only gain i see in wiring it to the deck is being able to fade it. Other then that i believe its way to low of power for a set of OEM's.

KyleBechtold
01-12-2009, 11:02 PM
Bridge the amp run the backs off the h/u power... and wtf is pissing up a rope?

Bridging... Combining 2 channels into one.. so your 4 channel is now a 2 channel.. and instead of the power being split into 4 its only split into 2..

z0n3d0u7
01-12-2009, 11:20 PM
Bridge the amp run the backs off the h/u power... and wtf is pissing up a rope?

Bridging... Combining 2 channels into one.. so your 4 channel is now a 2 channel.. and instead of the power being split into 4 its only split into 2..


I knew that, Dunno why i even asked. However my amp's a 2ch, So id lose l/r if i bridged it, right? So my best bet is wiring them both to the amp @ 2ohms per channel?