PDA

View Full Version : fiberglass question



RKPsk8er
06-29-2008, 01:44 AM
Here is the box design, not to scale. Driver on right. 6" aeroport on left.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f344/RKPsk8er/possiblebox.jpg
my question is how do I join the fiberglassed bottom piece to the MDF top piece?
Also, how do I go about finding volume of total box since its an irregular fiberglassed enclosure?

thank you!

lbjshaq2345
06-29-2008, 01:46 AM
I used wood glue and more resin for mine.

RKPsk8er
06-29-2008, 01:57 AM
can you screw through fiberglass?

RKPsk8er
06-29-2008, 10:38 AM
so I had a sweet idea. would it hurt to fill the fiberglass section with water? i could do that to determine volume of it and use simple math to determine volume of top portion

Megalomaniac
06-29-2008, 10:42 AM
you can fill it with water yes. or use packing peanuts.

RKPsk8er
06-29-2008, 02:25 PM
hmm. also is it okay to have the bottom well section fiberglass only with no mdf? strong enough?

sorry for all the questions, I tried reading through the fiberglass 101 but there are a lot of dead links in there

RKPsk8er
06-29-2008, 07:10 PM
anyone? up

Megalomaniac
06-29-2008, 07:58 PM
yes you can use just fibergass only. if you layered enough it should be strong

RKPsk8er
06-30-2008, 12:04 AM
megalomaniac, I was reading through your carputer thread the other day and and one of your old post reccommended against carputers running without a headunit for processing and such, has this changed any with new technology or anything? I want to build a carputer as an alternative to getting a dvd/nav indash but I want to run onboard audio directly to my amps.

lbjshaq2345
06-30-2008, 07:56 AM
Fiberglass only enclosures are plenty strong for any application with enough layering. What kind of power will this enclosure be looking at? If you're going to paint it in the end, I'd recommend using FG cloth instead of mat for the last 2 layers, it will help a little in the sense it will give a somewhat smoother surface to begin working with.

RKPsk8er
06-30-2008, 11:24 AM
It would be a single fi btl 15" off about 2600 watts.

the top mdf portion would be wrapped in gray vinyl the bottom would probably not be painted

Megalomaniac
06-30-2008, 02:56 PM
It would be a single fi btl 15" off about 2600 watts.

the top mdf portion would be wrapped in gray vinyl the bottom would probably not be painted

If you can(or have enough funds) get some spectrum/sludge and line that fiberglass portion in it after you are done glassing completely. Or Get some Resin and body filler and make a milk shake and do the same if you dont have spectrum

RKPsk8er
07-01-2008, 01:41 AM
If you can(or have enough funds) get some spectrum/sludge and line that fiberglass portion in it after you are done glassing completely. Or Get some Resin and body filler and make a milk shake and do the same if you dont have spectrum

does that give added strength or better sound or something else?

WrenchGuy
07-01-2008, 02:00 AM
Use MDF in all the flat and wide areas. The fiberglass is weaker in these areas.

RKPsk8er
07-01-2008, 02:43 AM
hmm.. well I'd rather just layer the glass and not use MDF because the point in the glass in the well is to get extra cubes. thats why im doing this instead of completely out of MDF

Megalomaniac
07-01-2008, 12:14 PM
does that give added strength or better sound or something else?

strength

fbi90909
07-01-2008, 12:32 PM
is the blue portion the fiberglass portion?
that's alot of area needed to glass that would be much better done in mdf. i know you say you need it for the air space but you are going to need TONS of layers along with bracing to reduce flexing. it will happen, believe me. i did an enclosure for my xxx that ran off 1500w and it flexed like a mother, even put a 3" crack in my trunk floor. and it was done with about 15 layers of mixed mat and cloth.
as for attaching the mdf to fiberglass, you don't need any screws. just glass the mdf to the fiberglass. though you need a large number of layers to get a solid hold. glass the inside and outside when attaching to get a good seal.

Megalomaniac
07-01-2008, 12:36 PM
is the blue portion the fiberglass portion?
that's alot of area needed to glass that would be much better done in mdf. i know you say you need it for the air space but you are going to need TONS of layers along with bracing to reduce flexing. it will happen, believe me. i did an enclosure for my xxx that ran off 1500w and it flexed like a mother, even put a 3" crack in my trunk floor. and it was done with about 15 layers of mixed mat and cloth.
as for attaching the mdf to fiberglass, you don't need any screws. just glass the mdf to the fiberglass. though you need a large number of layers to get a solid hold. glass the inside and outside when attaching to get a good seal.

i think its his mad paint skillz, that bottom is more than likely his spare tire well.

DDSC
07-01-2008, 01:46 PM
you could run the mdf right up to the wheel well and then just glass

DDSC
07-01-2008, 01:48 PM
oh and I love the jensen sub with the 4"wide surround you made there. Havnt seen one of those since high school

ramos
07-02-2008, 01:19 PM
LMAO some of you guys worry me :(

RKPsk8er
07-02-2008, 02:25 PM
no its not a spare tire well. Its a deep trunk well in the hatchback of my camaro. don't hate on the paint skills. if you saw a pic of my well you'd see it would look close to what I designed in paint.

jensen sub? don't really know what your talking about

RKPsk8er
07-02-2008, 02:34 PM
http://images.autotrader.com/images/2008/6/22/246/877/7599317450.246877691.IM1.06.565x421_A.562x421.jpg

this is what it looks like, the mdf top matches the angle of the two side plastic pieces. the deep well will be fiberglassed inside

PSturmer
07-02-2008, 04:32 PM
if its a daily box you can just calculate it using a tape measure and some basic integral knowledge. worse comes to worse you can just change the length of the port.