View Full Version : Kicker SSMB Midbass Spkrs

06-12-2008, 08:12 PM
I'm thinking of buying a set of Kicker SSMB 8's. I drive a 99 Tahoe and my rear door panel only has room for the stock 6.5's. I could find some way of getting 8's in there, I'm sure, but I'm thinking of getting the SSMB 6.5's instead just to save trouble.

My question is this: Is there much difference in sound between the two besides loudness? The frequency range on both is 30-500hz. My doors are not deadend, but they will be eventually.

I have two KS650.2 components up front and a CVT 12" in the back (will be a CVX in a couple weeks) and I'm looking to fill the gap between the sub bass and the highs, plus when I put in the more powerful sub, I'm thinking I'll end up needing more volume on the higher end to keep up.

Also, will the SSMB6's have more bass than my KS650.2's? I'm not really looking to add low bass. I guess I can describe it as when sometimes a bass guitar line or bass drums in a song don't come through the sub woofer, but are too much for my 6.5's. I want something to bring that out more, plus some of the heavy crunch that I feel is missing.

I just don't know if one 6.5 can be more "bassy" than another or do I need to get a larger speaker (like an 8")

I've also heard that I would need to put these up front, which I can't do at this time (until I can afford to get some kick panel enclosures), so is this all just pointless? It's mostly for when the sub isn't kicking, so I'm not worried about the sub over powering it in normal play.


Here are the specs on the three speakers, SSMB6; SSMB8; KS650.2

Diameter (IN., CM) : 6-1/2, 16.5
Impedance (OHMS) : 4
Max Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK)* : 250
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS RMS)* : 125
Sensitivity (db 1W/1M) : 88
Frequency Response (Hz) : 30-500
Mounting Cutout (IN., CM) : 5-5/8, 14.3
Mounting Depth (IN., CM) : 2, 5.1

Diameter (IN., CM) : 8, 20.3
Impedance (OHMS) : 4
Max Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK)* : 350
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS RMS)* : 175
Sensitivity (db 1W/1M) : 89
Frequency Response (Hz) : 30-500
Mounting Cutout (IN., CM) : 7-1/4, 18.4
Mounting Depth (IN., CM) : 2-1/4, 5.8

Woofer (IN., CM) : 6-1/2, 16.5
Tweeter (IN., CM) : 1, 2.5
Impedance (OHMS) : 4
Max Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK)* : 150
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS RMS)* : 75
Sensitivity (db 1W/1M) : 88
Frequency Response (Hz) : 35-21k
Mounting Cutout (IN., CM) : 5-5/8, 14.3
Mounting Depth (IN., CM) : 2-7/8, 5.4
Crossover Point (Hz) : 4.0k
Crossover Slope (dB/Octave) : 12hi/12lo
Tweeter Attenuation Level (dB) : 0,3,6 <------ {P. S. what would you set this to? I have it on 6 because I thought it was supposed to make the tweeter louder, but I read about what Attenuation was and now I'm not sure if that's best.} ---

06-14-2008, 09:41 AM

06-14-2008, 09:45 AM
If I were you, I'd start by deadening the crap out of your doors. You have to do it sooner or later, and you may see enough midbass improvement with that, and may not want to go with separate midbasses.

06-14-2008, 03:55 PM
I'm planning on getting some Raamat in a couple of weeks. About $200 will be enough to do both front doors twice and leave enough to put a bit on my cargo doors (where all of my annoying vibration noise comes from). Plus ensolite and spray on adhesive.

I figure that will make some difference, but I've always heard it was best not to send lows to the front speakers like that. I figure I can turn them louder if there isn't much bass in them. My HU has two HPF's (front & rear) So I would set the 6.5 comps on 160hz, the rears at 80hz and the amp for the rears LPF at ~160hz, then the sub LPF at 80hz.

Plus, I'll probably put the 6.5's in kick panels which I figure will be pretty bad for midbass (I think I'll just get the qlogic ones because I'm afraid to mess with fiberglass and all that. And I don't know if you can do much to improve on them), so the door speakers will be SSMB6's or 8's.

Does that sound like a bad plan? I'm not sure about having all my speakers up front and the subs all the way in the rear with nothing in between.

06-14-2008, 03:58 PM
The problem is that midbass is stereo & directional, and in order to have proper imaging and staging, your midbass has to be coming from up front.

06-14-2008, 04:01 PM
i bought the 6.5 version of those and am not happy with quality of them. They sound bad at the higher frequencies and bottom out with little power. I am probably going to change them with IDMAX. The kickers where a waste of money for me.

06-14-2008, 05:51 PM
Hmmm... I'm pretty happy with my KS650.2's. I would have thought the SSMB's would be as good/better.

I'll be cutting the highs out of them, though, so if it's just the higher frequencies that sound bad I'm not too worried. So long as the low's sound good.

Sorry if this sounds stupid, but what do you mean by "bottom out with little power?"

06-14-2008, 06:02 PM
i was running them with the rear channel of my arc audio amp using that crossover low pass crossed 150? i cant remember for sure but i tried a million ways to make them sound good and they never did. I imagine sealed may work better for these. I had to block anything below 45-50hz to keep them from acting crazy. I want to get some better moofers that could handle my amp at closer to its power. Something way stiffer and better sq.

08-07-2009, 02:33 PM
Bringing it back...

I have almost the exact same set up in a Quad cab Ram. Kicker RS6.5 in the front, DS5.25 in the rear. 2 Kenwood KFC 12's under rear seats. 150w p/ch in the front, 75w /ch in the rear. 400 x1 to subs.

I definetly have a gap between the subs and the mids, so I'm going to put my KS's in kick pods and wanted to put a midbase in the door.

Sense the 6.5 SSMB doesn't seem to get great reviews, what about using a Kicker CVT65. Their shallow mount 6.5in sub. Are there fundimental differences between the 6.5 sub and 6.5 midbase woofer?? (Sorry, I'm just no that knowledgable)


08-07-2009, 10:07 PM
I have the SSMB in the rear deck, the 6x9 location. They sound good until you start really cranking them up. I have an active setup with them crossed at 90. I am using them as subs, I will be switching to Tang Band W6-1139SI soon. I also need some deading in the rear deck, that may be part of the problem also. But at "normal" listing levels they sound good.