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Trepkos
05-24-2008, 01:58 AM
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/3932/dscn0848fn6.jpg


Yep, nothing fancy, no rims, no lowering or lift kit, no fancy exhaust. But I kept the truck exceptionally clean for one that is nearly 10 years old.

Well, it's may 23rd and I have purchased over 60% of the current future setup components which currently stand at:

HU: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X891 - *Bought*
(Kick-Panel)Front Stage: Rainbow SLC 6.5" Components
(Doors)Front Stage: RainbowSLC 5"x7" Components
Front Stage Amp: Profile AP1000 2-Ch Amp - *Bought*
Sub Stage: 15" DVC 2-Ohm Fi Q - *Bought*
Sub Stage Amp: Brutus Bxi1606d Class D Mono Amp - *Bought*
Enclosure: 3.35ft^3 @ 34hz - *Bought*
Deadening: RAAMAT BXT/Ensolite
Wiring/Dis. Blocks: KnuKonceptz Kolossus/Krystal/Karma SS Wiring. - *Bought*

Which is a world of difference from my past setup which was the following:

HU: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X791
Front Stage: Phoenix Gold RSD Comp Set
Front Stage Amp: Profile AP1000 2-Ch Amp
Sub Stage: 2x Kicker CVT 12" Shallow Mounts
Sub Stage Amp: Hifonics Titan Txi1008d
Enclosure: 2.36ft^3 Sealed
Wiring/Dis. Blocks: KnuKonceptz/JL Audio Dual Amp 4awg Kit

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/1193/dscn0941ei9.jpg

The above setup wasn't built to turn heads as much as it was built to provide a very decent sound solution to my truck. So why did I choose to completely overhaul everything on the setup?

Because of one problem, which was located in the head unit.

To begin you off before I start posting pics and other fun stuff, I'll summarize the past install:

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/4561/dscn0947sr1.jpg
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/7646/dscn0948nv1.jpg

Did I mention I like making everything clean?

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/6353/dscn0950zz1.jpg

The install was kinda rushed from the get-go and was planned to actually be completed in a week or less before college classes began. Unfortunately this planned time length didn't incorporate the time it would take to iron out different problems and difficulties, and being my very first install, there would be a lot of difficulties.

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/1647/dscn0957eg9.jpg


The installation period began at the end of July, July 29th to be exact and it began with the installation of the 4awg wiring and ended with the final installation of the component set in Mid-October. So much for a week huh?

The following problems were encountered:
1 - Hifonics Txi1008d would not output any sound.
- Shipped it to a amplifier repair shop to investigate the problem and they reported that it was indeed working fine even though I hooked up in different setups besides mine with no output coming from it.
2- Extremely odd remote wire defeciency involving the head unit.
- This problem was never really solved, it just kinda went away randomly.
3 - Hifonics Txi1008d not outputting any real amount of power without the bass boost being turned up.
- This problem actually resided in the head unit, but at first I thought it was the amplifier. But i was setting the gains and with all eq settings flat and bass boost at minimum, I was getting 0.4volts from the speaker outputs instead of the calculated 28-31volts but when the bass boost was turned up, the voltage rose according but ofcourse there was alot of distortion as well.
4 - Random CD player cut offs.
- Did some tidying around of the wires behind the unit and this problem was solved.
5 - Random HU USB error when music is too loud.
- This problem is still current on the head unit but doesn't really affect anything, it just kinda occured one day when the head unit restarted itself randomly and resetted all of the settings back to factory.
6 -Alternator whine issue through the front RCA's.
- This issue was discovered when we were installing the component set and it is probably one of the most mysterious issues encountered. Alternator whine was affected the front RCA's heavily, the rear RCA's were unaffected and now the component set is hooked up to them. I did everything to try and fix this problem, grounding the RCA's, grounding the HU on the chassis, distribution block, amplifier grounding point, and even directly to the negative terminal of the battery. I even bought a ground loop isolator which for some reason that knocked out the right channel of sound coming from the HU completely. I even trouble shooted the amplifier with a Y-adapter and an ipod to further pinpoint the problem to the headunit.
7 - Fried my PG RSD 6.5" midbass driver, no idea how I managed to pull that one off but when we first started up the system with the right side of the component set hooked up, the voice coil of the driver was completely fried. I ended up having to order a replacement one from Phoenix Gold directly.
8- Some really bad issues with mounting the component set due to lack of supplies and tools which could have and be affecting the performance of the midbass driver now as we speak.

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/7434/dscn1062ol0.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/6849/dscn1066pd8.jpg

Those were the major problems that affected the setup but at the end of October, the setup was finally operational.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/th_DSCN1052.jpg (http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/?action=view&current=DSCN1052.flv)
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/8241/dscn1031te0.jpg

Not exactly what I expected so I was pretty disappointed but there wasn't much I could do in the middle of school so I just dealt with it and planned for a new setup. The last setup I would put in that truck, hopefully. Distorted subwoofers, lack of any midbass from the component set. I would even say that I heard stock systems in newer vehicles which personally sounded better than my amplified set of PG RSD 6.5" components. I was extremely disappointed.

Trepkos
05-24-2008, 01:59 AM
So my future setup, the one currently in the works has changed forms several times over the past two or three monthes.

It first began as mainly a substage upgrade:

A bigger enclosure which would enclose 2x 12" Kicker CVX DVC 4-Ohm subwoofers, and I would run them off of a Hifonics Txi1508d class D mono amplifier.

The amplifier changed from a Txi1508d to a Bxi1606d class D for reliability issues and recommendations. Soon even the 2x 12' Kicker CVX's changed to a single 15" Fi Q w/o BP option.

But as the project progressed it became apparent that I was willing and wanting to upgrade and overhaul almost every aspect of my current system. Thus, the faulty head unit was to be upgraded to a Pioneer DEH-P7900BT then that changed to an Alpine CDA-9887, which changed to a Kenwood eXcelon kdc-x991, and then finally settled on a Kenwood eXcelon kdc-x891.

Upgrading the front stage of the system was controversial since I was mostly satisfied with my PG rsd comp set besides the midbass(or lackof). But I decided that I would need an increase in my mids and highs to balance out my sub stage. I first began with the idea of keeping the PG comp set and installing a set of stand alone tweeters with built in crossovers into the pillars of the door. This changed to actually getting a 6x8 Rockford Fosgate T-Series component set to replace the Phoenix gold set in the doors and essentially move the phoenix gold set to custom Q-form kick panel enclosures for 6.5" speakers. This eventually changed to putting Rainbow SLC 5x7" component speakers in the factory locations in the door and the 6.5" Rainbow SLC in the kick panels.

To run this front stage I planned out running it all directly off a 4-Channel Alpine PDX 4.100 amplifier, and even bought the appopriated 4-channel RCA cables to do so. But after research, I decided that I could possibly save money and keep the Profile AP1000 2-channel amplifier and run the two component sets on it, it outputting 225watts x2 @2Ohms. But this is still controversial, because I'm not sure if the amplifier really puts out the power needed to effeciently power these two component sets. In which case I am looking at possibly getting a eD NiNe.2.

Ok, enough of that text block.

The biggest problem that affects putting a system in a single cab pick up truck is space(or lack of). Especially when your only real substage options are restricted by the space available behind the bench seat in my truck. The box which housed the 2x Kicker CompVT's was exceptionally small at best, 2.36ft^3 and sealed.

Its dimensions was 9"BDx4.5"TDx16"Hx50.75"L and that box was a snug fit.

This box would have to have a lot more air space, alot more mounting depth and was also originally planned to be sealed. To do this would require the enclosure to take up all available space and even then some.

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg294/SMCustomz/SM%20Customz/?action=view&current=stephen.jpg
Design by Cody Smith of SM Customz
4.4ft^3 sealed.


This was the original enclosure design. But unfortunately I thought that the Bxi1606d being as overrated as it is, would not output enough power to efficiently move two CVX's which thermal power handling was 750watts a piece. So I opted out for a single 15" Fi Q, and better yet, why not port it.

Thus this design came to be.
http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg294/SMCustomz/SM%20Customz/?action=view&current=stephenport.jpg
3.5ft^3 @ 33hz Ported
Design by Cody Smith of SM Customz

As you can tell by the way that the back side of the enclosure is shaped, the enclosure is built to fit into the back wall of the truck and wrap around the support beam adding 2"+ of mounting depth. This would mean that some modifications would be needed to be made so that the enclosure could sit comfortable against the back wall, cutting panels and clothe and exposing the metal. Unfortunately one issue arose before construction began and that was the breathing room for the side-firing port.

At 55" there was be very little, 2-3", of airspace distance from the port and the side rear panel of the truck where the empty rear speaker slots sit. For that reason, the enclosure length was decreased to 53" to allow around 7" of breathing room and ofcourse alot of space if the air traveled around the edge of the passenger's seat. This decreased the airspace to 3.3ft^3 and increased the port tuning to 34hz. I also had to take into account the obstruction of the seatbelt compartments on the rear panels.

Oh yeah, the sub and port placement has been reversed, sub on the driver's and port on the passenger's.

With a top depth of 7"'s there seat my sit a tad bit upright.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1776.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1777.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1778.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1780.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN0917.jpg

Look at that abundance of space!

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/3.jpg

The crew at SM Customz are currently in the process of building the box which may arrive sometime next week.

Now one of the biggest issues with the last install was the lack of tools and tools such as wood/disconnects/connectors/and other assorted wiring accessories. I decided to be prepared this time around.

Meet my toolbox...

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1783.jpg

Old tools from the last install mainly include the power drill which wasn't used until later in the progress of the install. Quite a bit of screws, screwdrivers, zip-ties, hammer, broom, my handy DMM, circuit tester, assorted small wires for remote and headunit wiring, and my broom and really decent black gel(for restoring black color on faded black plastic panels and vinyl,this stuff works extremely well for a walmart product.) and some crappy pliers and wire strippers.

But to add to my arsenal I have acquired the following and hopefully have finished my tool and accessory purchasing for this project.

- 15ft Red 3/4" Split-Loom(For the 0/1 awg wire going from the engine compartment to the inside of the cab.
- 25ft Black Techflex Wiring Covering(For the big 3 0/1 wiring in the engine compartment.)
- Wedge-On Crimping Tool (For crimping 0/1 awg wires in their ring terminals.)
- 8x 1/0 Gauge ring terminals w/insulation(For the battery hookup and Big 3 installation.)
- 11-Piece Soldering Tool Kit - This came from radio shack and is a nifty little soldering kit which includes the gun, alot of other assorted accesories for wire management and a small amount of 60/40 solder. Unlike last time, the wiring will secured to their speaker terminals on the speakers with the help of disconnects and solder instead of just twisted and tied on.
- Kronus Heavy Duty Automatic Wire Stripper/Cutter - an extremely handy wire stripper/cutter and crimper for the speaker and subwoofer wires.
- Heat Shrink Tubing Set(36-Pack) - This is for the headunit wire connections to provide a more secure connection without coating the entire thing in butt connectors and electrical tape like last time.
- 4x 12awg Female disconnects - This is for the subwoofer terminals, I bought these when I thought that I would be dealing with 2 subwoofers instead of one, thus 4 of em instead of two.
- 50x 14-16awg Female Disconnects - Cant have enough of these little jokers for the component system wiring, lots of room for error with this many.
- 1lb of 60/40 solder - idea for electrical use such as wire connections.
- Heat gun - this ofcourse will be used with the heat shrinks.

All of the tools I gathered are ones which survived the last installation and new ones which will provide better connections, more easy and security in the installation as well as increase in stability. No jerry-rigging this time.

Trepkos
05-24-2008, 01:59 AM
One of the biggest parts of this build project is the wiring which will include the upgrading of the big three with 0/1awg wiring as well as upgrading the audio system wiring standard from its previous 4 - 8awg setup to a 0/1 - 4awg setup.

And also I will be using 12awg for the speakers and 16awg for the front stage speakers. I have finished acquiring all the wiring components and wire needed. Which consisted of the following:

25ft KnuKonceptz Kolossus 1/0 Gauge Power Wire
2x In-Line Waterproof ANL w/300A Fuse(One for the Big 3, one for the main system)
2x KonFused Negative Battery Terminals
2x KonFUSED 2-Way Distribution Block(2x 150A) Fuses
Several Feet Of 4 Gauge Power Wire(This was leftover JL audio wiring from the last installation).
20ft Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire
30ft Karma SS 16 Gauge Speaker Wire
Krystal Kable 4 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable(Might not need now.)

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1725.jpg

So as far as wiring and tools are concerned I am pretty much prepared. Hopefully the 25ft of 0/1awg wire will last through the Big 3 and the small distance it needs to travel to get to the distribution blocks in the cab of the truck.

Now to occupy that wonderful enclosure being designed and built above came the 15" Fi Q. Probably the biggest subwoofer and one of the sexiest subwoofers I have ever seen in person.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1762.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1763.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1765.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1766.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1773.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1774.jpg

The last pic was where I was measuring the dimensions of the motor and basket of the subwoofer to make sure it would fit in the designed enclosure.

And to power this subwoofer will be the Hifonics Bxi1606d Class D Mono amplifier.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1772.jpg

An issue with this amplifier is mainly its length which is around 2-3"'s longer than the previous Txi1008d amplifier which sat beneath the seat. The combination of this length and height is conflicting with the seat movement bar on the underside of the seat so the amplifier will be switching places with the front stage amplifier on the underside of the passenger's side.

Similar to the previous setup, the amplifier and distribution blocks will be placed underneath the bench seat.

Since the subwoofer is going behind the seat and the enclosure is such a large fit I ordered a 15" Bar Grille to offer protection to keep the surround and dust cap from becoming damaged by the backside of the seat. The previous Kicker CVT's left impressions in the back fabric of the seat. Amazingly the grille actually fits over the subwoofer, barely, but it does. But to keep it from pushing the seat upwards i may need to cut into the seat to allow the grille to sit inside the back of the seat.

The grille will also allow more breathing and movement room for excursion. Did I mention it looks hawt too?

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1784.jpg

I actually have planned out the entire installation process on a wordpad file which included a checklist to make sure each and every aspect of the system is finely tuned, operational, and secure. I plan for the installation to begin in mid-June and last an entire week. This is the latest date, allowing me enough time(hopefully) to save up the money needed to purchase the remainder of the system.

Today I purchased the head unit for this system, which is Kenwood eXcelon KDC-x891; which has everything I want out of a head unit. Eventhough my past experience with Kenwood head unit hasn't been the best, I love the look and functionality of these decks, plus for the price and amount of features, this deck was my final choice.

Both it and the custom enclosure should be shipped in sometime next week, my next build related post will probably include information about those two components, and the process of getting the box to fit behind the seat and also the installation of the subwoofer in that box.

Hopefully all of that will go flawlessly, I will be using the 12awg wiring, the 12awg disconnects, and solder to provide for an extremely secure connection, as well as drilling and screwing the subwoofer and grille into the enclosure. Once that is done, cutting into the panels and possibly into the seat as well as seat adjustments would be done to make sure that the box has a comfortable fit without too much trouble.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1785.jpg

Remaining Parts Include:

RAAMAT BXT Deadening Material
Ensolite™ MLC
V&S Spray Adhesive
Q-Forms Kick Panel Enclosures(6.5" Midbass, 2.5"Tweeter)
07' Rainbow Audio SLC SAC 265.25 6.5" Component Set
08' Rainbow Audio SLC 238 w/ Cal25 Tweeter 5x7" Component Set

Not sure how much deadening material I need, but I plan on deadening the doors, back wall, and floor of the truck. Other changes that may be made is the incorporation of a new two channel amplifier.

I began the process of locally selling my subwoofers and amplifier, in doing so, I actually discovered that the defect that sorta started this entire overhaul, the defect which I blamed on the amplifier was actually a defect affecting the head unit. The amplifier would not output the amount of voltage it was rated to put out, 0.4v instead of 28-31volts without the aid of a heavily distorting bass control remote.

After selling the amplifier to the same individual which I had sold my subwoofers and helping him install the two components in his single cab truck. I discovered that the CVTs were hitting much much louder than they had been in my truck, and that is without the gain, bass eq, and bass boost control turned to max.

But it all made sense now, the front RCA preout isolated alternator whine, random USB errors, and low amplifier output voltage were all the result of a defect in the headunit.

Other than that, thats all for right now.

twisztdauthorit
05-24-2008, 02:03 AM
for the exception of this truck being a ford, im eager to see the end product.

Is that grill tall enough for the FI?


Hint: use less words, summarize, and more pics always a plus.

Trepkos
05-24-2008, 02:08 AM
for the exception of this truck being a ford, im eager to see the end product.

Is that grill tall enough for the FI?


Hint: use less words, summarize, and more pics always a plus.

Yeah, kinda maxed out the number of pics for each post.

Only 4-1/2' of exposure on the top and bottom with that grille, but that shouldnt pose a problem.

The back seat will not touch the surround, since the grille will sticking out a whole lot more than in that picture, what little fabric that doesn't make contact with the bars will simply descend from that point hopefully without contacting the surround.

twisztdauthorit
05-24-2008, 02:11 AM
Yeah, kinda maxed out the number of pics for each post.

Only 4-1/2' of exposure on the top and bottom with that grille, but that shouldnt pose a problem.

that should be fine

Trepkos
05-24-2008, 02:23 PM
Anyway, thanks for the replies, suggestions, attention and everything else.

Trepkos
05-26-2008, 02:37 AM
Woo...

SuperchargedRS
05-26-2008, 05:48 AM
Looks like your dumping some time and money into that truck.

I think it would look 10x better w/o the chrome mexi rails on the bed, steering wheel cover and blue lights and lack of hub cap

KINGDELL91
05-26-2008, 09:06 AM
interesting...

Trepkos
05-26-2008, 11:46 AM
Looks like your dumping some time and money into that truck.

I think it would look 10x better w/o the chrome mexi rails on the bed, steering wheel cover and blue lights and lack of hub cap

Got a hub cap, rails are there for a reason, if you saw the steering wheel you'd want the cover on there, blue lights are extremely handy.

MisterGrubbs
05-29-2008, 08:36 PM
I want ot know how in the hell your'e doing 3.35 in that truck, unless you're a midget. I had a 99 f-150 single cab, had many of different setups, best is the one that the box is still sitting in the garage. Built for one 12" woofer at 40hz, took up all the room I had near about, and it was 2.25, IIRC

I lost a few clicks on the seat with that, it was almost uncomfortable to sit in and I'm only 5'10

Trepkos
05-29-2008, 09:44 PM
I want ot know how in the hell your'e doing 3.35 in that truck, unless you're a midget. I had a 99 f-150 single cab, had many of different setups, best is the one that the box is still sitting in the garage. Built for one 12" woofer at 40hz, took up all the room I had near about, and it was 2.25, IIRC

I lost a few clicks on the seat with that, it was almost uncomfortable to sit in and I'm only 5'10

Ok, I will show you the next post. :)

Trepkos
05-30-2008, 01:47 AM
Ok, I will show you the next post. :)

The only issue I should run into is the top depth of 7 inches at 20 inches height, but I think/hope that the only issues can be solved by cutting into the back of the seat and moving it forward a bit.

gladiator_jai
05-30-2008, 02:17 AM
Looks good bro, waiting eagerly to see the box.

Weeznur32
06-02-2008, 12:32 AM
The only issue I should run into is the top depth of 7 inches at 20 inches height, but I think/hope that the only issues can be solved by cutting into the back of the seat and moving it forward a bit.

Hmmm.. I did an install in an older f150 single cab but it had about the same room in the back and there is no way that would fit. Hopefully it'll work out....gunna be tough tho

Trepkos
06-09-2008, 12:56 AM
And heres an update.

We're one week away from "Installation Week", and whats a more better way to celebrate such an occasion than to get a little bit started. When I say this, I mean that I decided to go ahead and install the the CD player. I was actually planning on doing quite a bit of the wiring and whatnot today but I didn't get a chance to do this.

The CD Player is a Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X991, purchased brand new from Online Car Stereo (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com). My original choice as a headunit was the KDC-X891 and was originally purchased from Woofersetc, but unfortunately the headunit was not actually in stock like it was displayed on the website. Therefore I had to dish out a lot more cash for a head unit which had everything I wanted, but on the good side, I got what I wanted and so much more.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1831.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1833.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1834.jpg

A short summary of my current experience with the head unit.

Compared to it's distant cousin, the KDC-X791 which was actually a little messed up, the -X991 is in a different league completely and price of the head unit shows this as well. I never thought I wouldnt spend so much cash on a single din CD player as I did on this unit, but I can honestly say that I do not regret doing so. The -X991 has ALOT of features, everything to personally customize your head unit from downloadable wallpapers to font and display layouts.

The head unit also has a ton of different EQ, sound manipulation, speaker manipulation, and other sound and volume related features to allow for total control over my speaker's output. The display is really nice and bright with a variety of different colors(over 4k) and alot of fancy and fun animations. Ofcourse there is also the G-Analyzer which I really have no idea of the usefulness of this feature. At the moment, I'm keeping the manual in my glove compartment because of the multitude of different features and also the possibility of getting lost in discovering them.

Another thing which I really love about the headunit is the way that you can actually change the angle of the faceplate and also the way that the motorized facebook folds down when you eject a CD. Much better than the clunky non-motorized faceplate of the KDC-x791.

To begin the install I took a quick trip to Circuit City and Bestbuy looking for a new dash install kit and wiring harness for the CD player install. Came home after purchasing the overpriced accessories and I first began to wire the factory wiring harness adapter to the wiring harness of the headunit.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1835.jpg

I gently electrical taped and folded the unneeded wires and zip tied the few wires that would actually come of use to avoid an unorganized mess. After that was done, I shrink wrapped the connections(using matches XD).

Unfortunately when I was cutting wire on the newly bought wiring harness I accidently snipped the illum. wire at its start when cutting another wire. Though not much if any copper was actually affected by this, I decided to continue on and work with this wiring harness. Unfortunately for me, wire splicing the wires(with my teeth), I accidently pulled one of the wires completely out of its socket. So I had to resort to my previous wiring harness, therefore that was twenty dollars down the drain.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1836.jpg

Once everything was said and done I began to work on the actual dash install kit which would house and support the headunit. After some tedious work on assembly I installed the CD player into the dash kit. This dash kit is alot more secure and sturdy than the previous one but at the same time, its a pain in the butt to remove and insert unlike the last one.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1836.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1837.jpg

After this was done, I took the CD player to the truck and began to complete the install. Thanks to the USB cord, Antennae cord, 3 sets of RCA output cords, Auxillary cord, the wiring harness and folded jumbles of electrical taped non-needed wires, the space behind the headunit is non-existent.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1839.jpg

Yeah, it looks a mess but it really isn't all that bad. I reconnected the negative battery and decided to put my wiring, wire management, and installation to the test.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1838.jpg

The CD player came on and I immediately played around with the settings to get the CD player to recognize my Ipod hooked up the Aux input. It did so but there was no sound output from the door speakers. Turns out that the amplifier was not on because there was no signal from the remote wire. I immediately played around a bit and finally found the remote wire which wasn't the External amplifier control wire which I had originally thought but was indeed the Power amplifier control wire.

After re-splicing the wires and electrical taping and managing the old wires, I retried and thus there was success and there was sound, really nice sound in comparison to my older unit.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1840.jpg

Trepkos
06-09-2008, 01:10 AM
Oh but there is more.

SM Customz has been progressing on the enclosure build more and more each day and hopefully the box will be here by tomorrow allowing me enough time to play around with the subwoofer installation on Wednesday. Now there has been a lot of skepticism about this subwoofer enclosure's ability to fit into the back seat given the very limited space back there. This skepticism has been on both side including mine, but I have taken measurements which said that this box should be in the clear but just barely.

Here are some pictures provided by SM Customz showing the progress of the box build.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/05-242.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/05-261.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/05-262.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/05-263.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/06-051.jpg

Its going to be a very tough fit but I am determined to make it work.

In regards to the rest of the build, I have decided that I am going with only one component set in the doors, 08' Rainbow SLC 6.5" w/ Cal25 Tweeter, being powered by a Sundown SAX-100.2 amplifier. Both of the components have been purchased and should arrive just in time for the installation. To compliment this setup is 100+ft of Raamat BXT for the floor/wall/and doors of the vehicle and 4 yards of Ensolite.

Now more pictures of the CD player.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1842.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1843.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1844.jpg

I have no idea why I took the seats out when I installed the CD player.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1841.jpg

But hopefully today will be the last time I will have to take the CD player out during the whole installation, hopefully.....

na_rsx
06-09-2008, 10:59 AM
wow, look forward to the completed project

WOT
06-09-2008, 12:26 PM
Seems like you really just needed to slow down and take some time and not rush when it was your first time. You would have been very happy with the PG rsd's had you actually given them a chance and made them work properly. I love mine, clear as day and get much louder than my ears can take staying that clear and im only giving them 50rms

And as for the stripping wires with your teeth? cmon man......

good luck

Trepkos
06-09-2008, 01:25 PM
Seems like you really just needed to slow down and take some time and not rush when it was your first time. You would have been very happy with the PG rsd's had you actually given them a chance and made them work properly. I love mine, clear as day and get much louder than my ears can take staying that clear and im only giving them 50rms

And as for the stripping wires with your teeth? cmon man......

good luck

I actually have a wire stripper. :D Now if I can figure out how to use it.

blackbonnie
06-09-2008, 01:30 PM
I actually have a wire stripper. :D Now if I can figure out how to use it.

if you cant you dont belong here

Trepkos
06-09-2008, 01:46 PM
if you cant you dont belong here

It's pretty complex.

Trepkos
06-10-2008, 02:42 AM
You would have been very happy with the PG rsd's had you actually given them a chance and made them work properly. I love mine, clear as day and get much louder than my ears can take staying that clear and im only giving them 50rms


Actually with the new head unit, the PG Rsd's sound quite a lot better and all of the distortion which plagued them before is no longer there.

Odd but I'm not complaining, also the lack of engine whine, usb error, *sigh* that last head unit was a mess.

Trepkos
06-12-2008, 12:44 AM
Day 1 -
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1845.jpg

8:30 AM
- So we start things out by a little wire management and disassembly, but our first workplace is underneath a tree. First we take out the seats, then the floor, and a friend of mine begins to work on the big 3, given instructions I have given him from this website.

No problems so far.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1846.jpg

As you can see in the above picture, the wiring is a bit of the mess from a combination of audio system, stock, and underneath neon light kit wires.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1847.jpg

We have disconnected the power wire and its fuseholder and connection the relay switch and now we're snaking it through a grommet in the firewall to the main cab to be pulled out completely.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1848.jpg

I have taken off the middle panel to expose the myriad of clustered and tangled interior neon lights lighting and other assorted wiring.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1849.jpg

Removed the distribution blocks and all other components that would hinder the removal of the carpet.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1850.jpg

And theres the seats....

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1851.jpg

Box full of randomness...

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1852.jpg

Another shot of that mess of wire I get to work out later on.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1853.jpg

My friend is beginning to play around with the battery terminals.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1854.jpg

The 0/1 awg wire being used on the Big 3 and the the audio system wiring....

Trepkos
06-12-2008, 01:01 AM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1855.jpg

No more floor! XD

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1856.jpg

Assortment of tools and accessories sitting on the inside of the hood.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1857.jpg

The box is in from SM Customz.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1858.jpg

And so is the Sundown SAX 100.2 Two-channel amplifier.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1859.jpg

Seeing how the Sundown amplifier will fit in its location. Seems to be the right size to not run into any problems with the seat; mainly the utility that allows the seat to move forward or back.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1861.jpg

That mess is a combination of the RCA's, the interior neon lighting wires, underneath neon light console wires, the remote and old HU ground wire(which has now been removed).

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1862.jpg

I have sorted it out now, beforehand there was a problem with the interior neon lights not all coming on at the same time, the middle one was often delayed by about 15 secs, this has been fixed. I shrink wrapped and re-connected all of the connections and bundled and ziptied the excess wire so it is quite a bit more organized and out of the way than the jumbled mess that it was earlier.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1863-1.jpg

Due to some issues concerning the Big 3 we decided to turn our attention to the subwoofer in the box installation. We were going to use the soldering iron and solder for this project but decided against soldering the female disconnects to the box terminal in the long run since the disconnects are already fitted fairly tight as it is without the need of solder.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1864-1.jpg

On the other hand we did run into one or two issues in this area.

1 - The box terminal came out, so we bought some super/wood glue and re-glued it to its hole in the box.

2 - Some of the disconnects would not fit on the box terminal connectors.

3 - When screwing and securing the subwoofer into the box and its baffle, one of the top screws may have now made it into wood judging by its quick descent during the process of screwing and also the fact that it will not come out.

4 - Wiring the DVC subwoofer was tricky, there are two pairs of terminals on both side of the subwoofer, I wire the + to + and - to - on both side and then we wired the + on one side to the box terminal positive and the - on the other side to the box terminal negative.

Trepkos
06-12-2008, 01:26 AM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1866-1.jpg

With that said, this installation went fairly smooth tbh, the subwoofer is securely in the box, the grilled is securely attached the box and all connection are/should be secure and still connected within the box and the super/wood glue should be dry now and the box terminal should be in good shape.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1867-1.jpg

My friend had to leave around this time so we actually had to go back through all that we did concerning upgrading the electrical system that was unfinished and get the truck drivable to move it back to the garage.

There was an issue where the positive and negative terminals(old ones) weren't very secure to the battery that delayed this quite a bit. But after he left, I solved this issue and picked up where we left.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1868.jpg

Here am I seeing how well both amplifier will be sitting and sorta getting an idea on how they will sit once the actual amplifiers are in the truck.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1869.jpg

I cut off the old terminals attached to the stock wiring and rewired them to the new KnuKonceptz terminals. This was sorta difficult but there is nothing moving that wire from those terminals, they are SECURE.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1870.jpg

I decided to postpone the Big 3 installation until tomorrow or this weekend, in this picture i believe I was getting the wire prepped for the power wire going to the distribution blocks in the cab(not there yet). I was probably measuring the wire for the fuseholder.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1871.jpg

Ok, I got the power wire in the positive battery terminal and I have split-loomed and electrical taped it. By the way, before my friend left he did complete a wire from the alternator positive to the relay switch positive with the 0/1 awg wire and techflex.

After he left i took the techflex and tucked it under the rubber connector ring's insulation to make it look neater and it will not be replacing but actually be added on the already alternator positive to relay switch positive wire. I also found a place on the frame of the vehicle for the battery negative to chassis connection and I will be making the chassis to engine block connection on the manifold.

That aside I just realized I got to fuse the alternator + to battery + wire. :(

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1872.jpg

Yeah I moved the truck.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1873.jpg

Finally got the fuseholder installed(its dark) and I have snaked the wire on the other side of the fuseholder through the grommet previously used by the previous power cable into the cab of the truck.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1875.jpg

This is a pic of the fuseholder and cable. I have two beefs here.

1 - The fuseholder isn't very 0/1 awg friendly and I had to do alot of shaving to get the wire to fit in there decently and even then there is a little bit of exposed wire from outer bit of wire being pushed back, you can see in that picture, it isn't much but I hate exposed wire.

2 - My other beef is the actual fuse connections, they seem to be for an allen wrench to tighten, unfortunately I have no allen wrench that will fit it and I have an allen wrench set. So I had to use a wrench to sorta tighten it, which it appears to be tight and secure I'm a little iffy about keeping it like that.

This time Im actually routing the RCA's on seperate sides of the truck, RCA's on the right and power-gnd-rem on the left. The RCA's are also zip-tied to existing wires underneath the door seal to keep them from sliding or moving out of place.

So heres been the problems so far:

- A few issues one finding the wires for the Big 3, seems like there is more-so a Big 7-8?.

- Those few issues I listed concerning box, most of those should be cleared except the screw which may not be in the wood, thats kinda has me a little worried.

- The fuseholder issues concerning the fuse may not be tight enough in there and no allen wrench to properly tighten it.


-----------------------------------------------------

Here is what I need to get done tomorrow or this weekend.

- I need to split-loom electrical tape the wire coming from the fuseholder and into the cab.

- Need to do some wire management on the engine compartment underneath neon light kit wires.

- I need to try and better secure the fuse in the fuseholder.

- Look into purchasing a manifold nut for my truck to secure the big 3 cord going from the chassis ground to the manifold.

- Fuse the battery positive to alternator positive 0/1 awg wire(if i really have to)

- Finish the Big 3 and straighten up all wiring in the engine compartment.

- Modify previous ground for 0/1 awg wire.

- Place all power and ground wire where it needs to be in the amplifier spots, also do the same with subwoofer speaker wiring.

- Re-Install the floor, install amplifiers and distribution blocks and route wires up through pre-placed holes.

- Install amplifier remote controls onto the middle dash panel with wiring going through the carpet.

- Get ready to the install the box(Panel and wall cutting)

- Fit box, reconnect negative and positive on the battery securely and make sure all big 3 and electrical connections are secure.

- Wire up the speakers/ subwoofers to the amplifiers.

- Get ready to set the gains and other settings on the amplifier.

- Install the box and hook up the subwoofer speaker wire to the box terminals on the outside.

- Make sure each component is getting proper voltage after the the positive and negative are reconnected.

- if voltage is correct, turn on radio, set gains, make sure all works well and if all does, get everything ready for the seats to go back in.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

Next week we will begin to install and new component set and the deadening whatnots, hopefully.

Trepkos
06-12-2008, 01:08 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1876.jpg

Began routing the wire into the cab and underneath the door seal. Zip tied to an existing mechanic there.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1877.jpg

In this pic you can see where the power cable actually enters the cab through the grommet underneath the driver's floorboard.

I need to actually finish electrical taping that small bit there.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1878.jpg

The power cable and fuseholder has been mounted and electrical taped and split-loomed.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1879.jpg

The KnuKonceptz battery terminal has been reconnected to the battery with the stock wiring and the audio system 0/1 awg hooked up to it.

I would like to say, the KnuKonceptz In-Line ANL fuseholder is a pain in the *** to install. It really is, you actually have to shave and cut down the wire in the 0/1 awg to get a secure fit into it and no allen wrench I have fits the screw holding the ANL fuse down.

I believe the one under the hood is fairly secured, I really hope it is tbh.

Trepkos
06-12-2008, 02:01 PM
Quick Update

After worrying myself to death about that hood fuseholder I decided to reconnect the battery negative and read the voltage with the DMM coming on the battery than on the other side of the fuseholder.

Both readings shown 15.5v.

snfsh79077
06-12-2008, 02:50 PM
I thought ford had changed the upper intake to plastic in 99....guess not. If you ever decide on exhaust for the 6er I have one of the best Ive heard, my friends think so also...I have it on youtube.


I would really like to come see this once your done...I will be in oxford sometime in the fall for a Lord T and Eloise concert.

cant wait to see pics and vids when its all done.

Anybody Killa
06-12-2008, 04:34 PM
Looking great man, Keep up the work

soloXgt
06-12-2008, 04:37 PM
nice job on the pics

Trepkos
06-13-2008, 02:48 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1881.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1882.jpg

Yay! My rainbows! They will be replacing the Phoenix Gold RSd 6.5"'s. This time I will actually be deadening the doors and cutting new and more secure baffles for the speakers than the one that the PG's had.

I know I complained a bit about the PG rsd's but they weren't bad speakers at all, they sounded really good, especially given the conditions they were installed under.
And when I was thinking of upgrading and changing parts of my system, they were actually the one part besides the head unit which I had plans on actually keeping.

They and the Profile Ap1000 are being replaced with this 2008 Rainbow SLC 6.5" component set and Sundown SAX 100.2 two channel amplifier. I hoping with the new baffles, and deadening material, that it sounds really nice.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1883.jpg

The midbass, whooo..

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1884.jpg

The Cal25 tweeters, these things are tiny!

I am working a very slow pace, hitting certain areas at a time, and right now I am working on the engine compartment wiring and eventhough I finished the fuseholder wiring wednesday night, I just wasn't happy with the presentation of the exposed wire on each end of the fuseholder and also the messiness of the split loom so this morning I managed to re-install the fuseholder(pain in the ***) and eliminate most if not all of the exposed wire. I also got rid of the split loom and I will either leave the wire like it is and tuck it a little bit or I tech-flex it.

I also better secured the fuse on the fuseholder.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1886.jpg

I decided to see how the connection was so I took the DMM out and reconnected the negative terminal to the battery and measured the voltage. Without the engine cranked I was reading 14.5v(rounded to the tenth) at both the battery, relay switch, and the end of the fuseholder, I then cranked the engine and it increased to 17v.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1887.jpg

Yay my deadening came in!

jdc753
06-13-2008, 02:53 PM
Looking good, your system sure has come a long way in the year since you joined up and built your first one. I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the system install pics, so far its looking pretty good. Also very curious to where you are gonna fit that monster of a sub, I'm guessing inverted in between some bucket seats or something.

Trepkos
06-13-2008, 02:58 PM
Looking good, your system sure has come a long way in the year since you joined up and built your first one. I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the system install pics, so far its looking pretty good. Also very curious to where you are gonna fit that monster of a sub, I'm guessing inverted in between some bucket seats or something.

Its going right behind the passenger's side seat actually.

jdc753
06-13-2008, 03:40 PM
Its going right behind the passenger's side seat actually.

Dang, you most certainly are not gonna be lacking in the bass department that is for sure. You should charge passengers for the back massage you will be giving them.

car_lost
06-13-2008, 05:04 PM
definitely tech-flex the wires. it looks so much cleaner.

92SC300
06-13-2008, 05:15 PM
nice and clean

I like that

Trepkos
06-14-2008, 12:29 AM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1885.jpg

The changes I made to the fuse holder to get rid of excess wire. Looks a lot cleaner.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1888.jpg

This is how I am going to try and mount the power cable in the truck to keep it from draping over the engine or swinging. Just a temp. setup, I'll tech-flex the wire, uniform the screws, make it look a bit better.

Now Im starting to question how I am going to finish up the Big 3, battery negative to chassis, and chassis to engine block. The original plan was like this.

Take a strand of 0/1 awg wire from the battery negative to here:

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1891.jpg

Which looks like a ground point on the frame behind that multitude of smaller(underneath neon light wires) wires.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1890.jpg

And wiring it to one of those places on the engine block, either on that screw at the top or the the place sticking out in the middle to the left of the striped alternator positive - battery positive wire.

Or replacing the wire in this picture that you can see coming from the chassis to the engine block.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1889.jpg

Fusion_FREAK
06-14-2008, 12:48 AM
Whoa, I just read thru the whole thread. Looking VERY sweet man. I love that body style on the F150's. Too bad it wasn't an extended cab, but it looks like you don't need it!

twisztdauthorit
06-14-2008, 12:56 AM
how are you getting such high voltage?

Trepkos
06-14-2008, 12:58 AM
how are you getting such high voltage?

No idea really. Back when I first started my first install, it usually read around 12v's.

twisztdauthorit
06-14-2008, 01:31 AM
No idea really. Back when I first started my first install, it usually read around 12v's.


maybe there is a problem with your dmm.

I don't think 17volts is safe for your cars electrical:rolleyes:

Trepkos
06-14-2008, 02:52 AM
maybe there is a problem with your dmm.

I don't think 17volts is safe for your cars electrical:rolleyes:

I'll get another DMM, do a comparison, pics, etc.

Trepkos
06-15-2008, 08:24 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1895.jpg

Thats with the vehicle initially cranked.

And a different DMM, that voltage dropped down to 15v.

With the vehicle not running, it read 12.5v.

twisztdauthorit
06-15-2008, 09:33 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1895.jpg

Thats with the vehicle initially cranked.

And a different DMM, that voltage dropped down to 15v.

With the vehicle not running, it read 12.5v.

well that looks a little more normal:laugh:

twistedmind
06-15-2008, 10:54 PM
interested to see the final result, I will be starting my 2000 regular cab f150 shortly, do you think one roll of deadener is going to be enough or do you think you are going to need both rolls? I dont want to be stuck with 50 feet of unused deadener and im trying to get by without taking out a bank loan.

EDIT: Take some armor all to your engine compartment that thing is dirty.

twisztdauthorit
06-15-2008, 10:55 PM
interested to see the final result, I will be starting my 2000 regular cab f150 shortly, do you think one roll of deadener is going to be enough or do you think you are going to need both rolls? I dont want to be stuck with 50 feet of unused deadener and im trying to get by without taking out a bank loan.

EDIT: Take some armor all to your engine compartment that thing is dirty.


you can never have to much deadener FYI:

Trepkos
06-16-2008, 12:40 AM
interested to see the final result, I will be starting my 2000 regular cab f150 shortly, do you think one roll of deadener is going to be enough or do you think you are going to need both rolls? I dont want to be stuck with 50 feet of unused deadener and im trying to get by without taking out a bank loan.

EDIT: Take some armor all to your engine compartment that thing is dirty.

LOL Ive had the vehicle for almost ten years and never cleaned the engine compartment....

As for the deadening, the comment above should help you there.

Trepkos
06-16-2008, 03:20 PM
Ever have those moments?

You know, where you just got done fitting the wire in some kind of socket or terminal as tight as you could and you're like "yay!", and then you make the slightest jerk and it just kinda slides out?

Yeah....Grrr...Hate those.

Everything is really secured now, or should be.

Trying to wrap up the Big 3 and engine compartment wiring.

twistedmind
06-16-2008, 07:20 PM
Ever have those moments?

You know, where you just got done fitting the wire in some kind of socket or terminal as tight as you could and you're like "yay!", and then you make the slightest jerk and it just kinda slides out?

Yeah....Grrr...Hate those.

Everything is really secured now, or should be.

Trying to wrap up the Big 3 and engine compartment wiring.



let me know how your big 3 ends up with pics of where you mounted everything if it isnt to much of a PITA need to do mine also and like you I was like wtf 40bizillion wires.

Trepkos
06-16-2008, 08:28 PM
Well, pretty much done with the engine compartment, Big 3 is done(took a while), finished and uberly secured all the wiring headed to the cab, I also sorted out the wiring underneath the truck for the underneath neon lights. Battery terminals installed....etc etc.

Here are some pics, hopefully I can begin work on the actual system now.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1902.jpg

Heres an overall view. You can see, I made a new grounding spot and sanded off the paint beneath it. On that grounding spot is the end of the battery negative to chassis and the start of the chassis to engine block.

You can also see the fuseholder going from the battery positive to alternator positive. Looks sorta iffy just hanging there, Im thinking of cutting off the mounting platform on it to make it look like its intentionally suppose to be hanging.

I used the small little looks to mount the power cable going to the inside of the cab of the vechicle so it wouldn't drape over the engine. I will also be zip-tying the small underneath trigger wire that is draping over the fuel injectors do that power cable.

Everything is tech-flexed and electrical taped.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1903.jpg

Another perspective.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1904.jpg

Yes that the chassis spot that I made and yes that isn't an ordinary washer, thats actually the end of a ring terminal which I tore off. To act as a washer(might be just temporaily).

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1905.jpg

You can see in this pic that we grounded the cable on the engine block location where the alternator is bolted in.

I cranked the vehicle and it started just fine and the voltage readings on each location was also fine. Between 14.5-15v's at each location, 12.5v with the vehicle not cranked.

Oldbass38
06-17-2008, 12:21 AM
Nice....I can see you aren't rushing anything and really want to make sure this is a clean install....Good for you!

Trepkos
06-17-2008, 02:10 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1906.jpg

Yes got the ground cable sorted out and a new ground spot sanded down and ready. :) I decided to tech-flex the ground cable to differentiate between the power and ground since both wires have red insulation.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1907.jpg

Decided to take a small bit of wire and wire it from the battery to the relay switch to improve the power flow from the alternator positive to battery positive wire which is also hooked up to the relay switch.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1908.jpg

Getting ready to deaden the floor of the truck, this will be my first deadening job. Im going to deaden the main area, the middle area, and the floor boards but Im not going to mess with the door seals.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1909.jpg

You can also see where the panels have been cut with the dremel, not the smoothest cuts but good enough atm. I might take the dremel to them again to smooth them down and cut the spots where they arent very even.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1910.jpg

Cut the cloth aswell, ofcourse, not the prettiest cuts Ive done in my life. I can probably tidy it up a bit, but Im not worried about the presentation of the back will since it should be hidden for the majority.

Trepkos
06-17-2008, 07:58 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1913.jpg

Woo, My first time deadening anything or even touching deadening material, I think is went pretty swell though considering it was my first time and I was doing this alone.

Only trouble I really had were the corners and ofcourse the multitude of wrinkles.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1912.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1911.jpg

Now time for the ensolite, now Im a bit scared because Im hoping I have enough ensolite to finish the door panels completely after using as much as I did on the floor. I decided to just single layer the floor since it doesn't rattle that much if at all.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1915.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1915-1.jpg

Going to try putting the floor back in now and begin installing the amplifier, distribution blocks and etc.

Ensolite went fairly smooth, few wrinkles here and there. Probably not the most presentable and professional job but it should work.

jbizzle
06-17-2008, 08:09 PM
wow, nice build, can't wait to see when its finished

twistedmind
06-17-2008, 08:25 PM
new pics r all dead bro

Trepkos
06-17-2008, 08:57 PM
new pics r all dead bro

good for me.

twistedmind
06-17-2008, 09:19 PM
good for me.

still all dead for me. All the older pics from page 1 forward work until these.

proof

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1089/see%20%28Medium%29.JPG

Trepkos
06-17-2008, 09:56 PM
still all dead for me. All the older pics from page 1 forward work until these.

proof

http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/files/1089/see%20%28Medium%29.JPG

I'm guessing it must be your ISP, I went on another computer and it also loaded the images on this thread fine.

PS Update your AVG.

Trepkos
06-17-2008, 10:04 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1918.jpg

With everything in the cab in the place where they will more than likely sit.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1920.jpg

Another view.

5.3bowtie
06-17-2008, 10:16 PM
Lookin good man! You are gonna love that 100.2, it helped out the sound of my speakers a ton. good luck on the rest of the install.

Trepkos
06-17-2008, 11:11 PM
Yeah Im doing the wiring now and dusting off the amplifiers and whatnot.

Trepkos
06-18-2008, 02:42 AM
Well did most if not all of the wiring for the amplifiers inside the cab tonight and decided to do a test run to see if they would work correctly.

Didn't go as hot as I was hoping, all amplifiers were recieving the right power and whatnot but one of the most haunting problems has come back, the remote wire.

Going to try to sort it out tomorrow, hopefully it will be a small fix and I won't need to remove the head unit and check the connections behind there. Prior to this installation, the remote wire was working flawlessly. But I may have accidentally pulled it and disconnected the connection.

I will be investigating that tomorrow as well as better positioning and securing of the amplifiers. I'm hoping to also install the subwoofer speaker wire, begin taking off the door panels and preparing to deaden/install the component set.

Hopefully...

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1921.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1922.jpg

jdc753
06-18-2008, 09:20 AM
Looking good, there sure is a ton of room behind that seat for that monster of a box. Should be no lack of bass in your truck now. Hopefully the remote wire deal is just the connection pulling out. Wiring looks to be pretty good, nice and clean all around.

Trepkos
06-18-2008, 01:13 PM
Looking good, there sure is a ton of room behind that seat for that monster of a box. Should be no lack of bass in your truck now. Hopefully the remote wire deal is just the connection pulling out. Wiring looks to be pretty good, nice and clean all around.

The no signal from the remote wire has gone to a constant 12v signal with just the battery negative hooked up and without the key in the ignition which is strange, I went and made sure that there were no wires touching from the power to the remote terminals on both amplifiers...

Any ideas?

The Hifonics amplifier is a PITA to connect seeing that every time I can tighten the bolts down as far as they go and the slightest maneuvers like pushing the amplifer back a bit or moving it forward can and will cause the power and ground wires(due to their low flexibility) to fall out of their slots. The Sundown's screw down terminals are enduring with no problem atm.

Trepkos
06-18-2008, 02:01 PM
Yeah just checked behind the HU and the remote wire extending off of it no longer producing a signal.

Wtf? :S

patrick1202
06-18-2008, 04:29 PM
Well did most if not all of the wiring for the amplifiers inside the cab tonight and decided to do a test run to see if they would work correctly.

Didn't go as hot as I was hoping, all amplifiers were recieving the right power and whatnot but one of the most haunting problems has come back, the remote wire.

Going to try to sort it out tomorrow, hopefully it will be a small fix and I won't need to remove the head unit and check the connections behind there. Prior to this installation, the remote wire was working flawlessly. But I may have accidentally pulled it and disconnected the connection.

I will be investigating that tomorrow as well as better positioning and securing of the amplifiers. I'm hoping to also install the subwoofer speaker wire, begin taking off the door panels and preparing to deaden/install the component set.

Hopefully...

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1921.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1922.jpg

i like it but i hope you do not have to take the seat out to get to the fuse block incase a fuse blows i imagine you can prolly get to them though without

Powers
06-18-2008, 06:53 PM
Where did you get that bar grille?

Trepkos
06-18-2008, 06:56 PM
Where did you get that bar grille?

www.PartsExpress.com

Trepkos
06-19-2008, 12:56 AM
Fixed the remote wire by wiring it into the ignition.

Then I began to work on removing the old component system's components and deadening the doors, unfortunately due to time restraints I only got this much done.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1926.jpg


http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1927.jpg

Installed the tweeters.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1928.jpg

Got atleast 85% of the internal wall of the door deadened, triple layered behind the speaker.

That is but only one door though, tomorrow is going to be a tough work day though. Hopefully cutting new baffles, installing the wiring, install baffles and midbass, crossovers, finish deadening and installing the subwoofer for good.

These crossovers though are huge and won't fit in the door panels so Im hoping I can fit them under the seat in the middle with the distribution blocks.

twisztdauthorit
06-19-2008, 01:11 AM
I like the way you ran the cables through the carpet for some reason:laugh:

Trepkos
06-19-2008, 11:16 AM
Yeah its sorta my thing, my last setup was the same way but it looked strictly business with the wires coming out directly next to the distribution block. I decided to go a little crazy with this one but I don't regret it.

Atimm693
06-19-2008, 01:18 PM
Hopefully this install will go much smoother than your last one.

Looks great so far.

Low_e_Red
06-19-2008, 01:59 PM
Hey bro, Im loving the install. I used to have a 04 Heritage F150, I miss her bad. But Id love to hear it if its cool with you, as I am driving through MS.

BTW, if you ever need a hand, give me a shout

Trepkos
06-19-2008, 09:02 PM
Well, I wired it up and did a test run and there is not much movement coming from the sub woofer at all. Been playing with the setting a bit, Ive been looking for the forum post telling you what each setting was but its been deleted.

The mids and highs sound good, not crazy good but good, bit of distortion on the midbass because it tries to hit the low notes harder than I guess its suppose to.

Anyways, if anyone could tell me...

Trepkos
06-19-2008, 10:19 PM
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1929.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1930.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1931.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1932.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1933.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1934.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1935.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1936.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN1937.jpg

twistedmind
06-19-2008, 10:43 PM
looking good, how much deadener have you used on the doors and floor and back wall?

TPABlazer
06-19-2008, 11:21 PM
Well, I wired it up and did a test run and there is not much movement coming from the sub woofer at all. Been playing with the setting a bit, Ive been looking for the forum post telling you what each setting was but its been deleted.

The mids and highs sound good, not crazy good but good, bit of distortion on the midbass because it tries to hit the low notes harder than I guess its suppose to.

Anyways, if anyone could tell me...

The mid is probably reaching it's mechanical limits. I would say either turn the gain down or cross them over higher.

AS far as the sub, No clue. Check the HU settings etc

Trepkos
06-19-2008, 11:27 PM
How much deadener? probably roughly about 1.3-1.5 rolls.

Regarding the speakers, yeah I realized to stop the distortion my gains are pretty much a tiny bit above their minimum. The subwoofer is working now, one of the wires was lose on the back of the box when we were fitting the box into the back wall, must have knocked one loose.

It hits now, extremely loud. At volume 21 of 35, it shakes the entire internal cab, but I'll have to do some tweaking. The component set sounds really nice and midbass is reasonably loud.

The deadening stopped alot of the external rattling tin-bucket related sounds plus improved the midbass response and also stopped most of the rattling inside the truck(unfortunately things within and on the dash still make a few noises).

Tomorrow we will be putting the seats, which may be the hardest part of the installation because of all the equipment inside the truck.

Trepkos
06-20-2008, 01:43 PM
Well an update. For some reason, the midbass is trying to hit notes lower than the frequency I have set on the LPF on the amplifier. The subwoofer is hitting okish, but everytime it does hit, the speakers on the right side distort or shut off completely(temporaily though)

energizedsbs
06-20-2008, 04:21 PM
Well an update. For some reason, the midbass is trying to hit notes lower than the frequency I have set on the LPF on the amplifier. The subwoofer is hitting okish, but everytime it does hit, the speakers on the right side distort or shut off completely(temporaily though)


did you mean lpf or hpf? start around 65hz hpf and go up till they sound good to you..

Trepkos
06-20-2008, 05:08 PM
did you mean lpf or hpf? start around 65hz hpf and go up till they sound good to you..

The RCA's were actually backwards, I think there may be some issues with the subwoofer RCA and I need to do some more tweaking with the mids and highs.

twistedmind
06-20-2008, 10:13 PM
update bro

zack39648
06-21-2008, 03:39 AM
i swear i know this truck from around here ,do you mind if i ask you name ohh yeah nice job on the install also good choice of equipmet ...almost certain that u live in or near mccomb... or i might be mistaken if so excuse me ....

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 12:21 PM
Im way up north from you.

Anyways heres the update.

The same issues that plagued me the last install are back so I'm not sure what the problem is, since everything has been replaced and changed since the last install EXCEPT the RCA cables, which are KnuKonceptz Krystal RCA cables. I'm going to play around with a few other RCA cables and see if I can find the solution.

The problems are the following:

1. The subwoofer will not hit unless the bass boost is turned up on the remote bass boost. Supposedly the subwoofer should be able to perform better than that off of a Hifonics Bxi1606d amplifier(which argueably may not be able to output the complete advertised wattage), but there should be atleast some movement from the subwoofer at its current settings.

3/4 on the gains, bass boost on the amp at 0, HU bass boost on 0, lpf at around 45hz and the subsonic set at 15hz.

This was the same problem with the last system except for even the bass boost on the amplifier and HU bass settings could be turned all of the way up and not affect the output.

2. Due to some extremely stupid RCA backwards wiring, the midbass might be blown because of the fact that they the amplifier that was powering them was being sent a signal from the subwoofer pre-amp on the HU.

3. The remote wire didn't work eventhough it had worked before the installation when I initially installed the cd player. But in the course of the installation, hoping that I would not have to fool around with taking out the HU during the install, I had to wire the remote to the ignition due to the remote wire not outputting any voltage as before.

4. Midbass is repeatedly trying to hit lower notes than its suppose to and bottoming out in the process which sounds horrible. The component system itself doesn't sound very cost effective at the moment, Im hoping some tweaking will help that or the fault might lie in the RCA cables.

A rainbow SLC 08' 6.5" component set being powered by a sundown sax 100.2 two channel amplifier should be extremely crisp, clear, and loud. Instead the midbass is bottoming out and making a popping noise whenever it tries to hit the lows, the tweeters sound so-so, and the set won't get very loud without overly distorting or the midbass popping.

Thats the gist of it, Im going to either try to fix it myself today or find alot of the problems and tune the sound of it, if all else fails then Im going to take it to some professional installer and see what they can make of it.

This system should sound alot better than it does.

zack39648
06-22-2008, 01:47 PM
im not sure how you define way north but i have most deff. seen this truck before....

sorry to here about the problems your having that sub should be movin with that amp maybe not a whole whole lot but should be kicking out some pretty good bass. taking it to some pros wouldnt be a bad idea it might be something so simple you didnt think of but at least it will be a learning experience.. good luck!

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 02:29 PM
im not sure how you define way north but i have most deff. seen this truck before....

sorry to here about the problems your having that sub should be movin with that amp maybe not a whole whole lot but should be kicking out some pretty good bass. taking it to some pros wouldnt be a bad idea it might be something so simple you didnt think of but at least it will be a learning experience.. good luck!

Well the subwoofer hits really hard if you turn the remote bass boost up, but otherwise, notso much.

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 03:48 PM
but thats the problem, I was hoping that I could get the subwoofer to hit fairly hard without the need of any kind of bass boost.... Which distorts it.

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 05:33 PM
Nothing wrong regarding the RCA cables, took an Y-Adapter to it and it didn't make a single difference between the RCA's running from the HU and the RCA's coming from the Y-Adapter.

Maybe the impedance is off, is a DMM in anyway accurate in showing the impedance load on an amplifier or of a speaker?

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 05:41 PM
im not sure how you define way north but i have most deff. seen this truck before....

sorry to here about the problems your having that sub should be movin with that amp maybe not a whole whole lot but should be kicking out some pretty good bass. taking it to some pros wouldnt be a bad idea it might be something so simple you didnt think of but at least it will be a learning experience.. good luck!

Im near Tupelo.

Atimm693
06-22-2008, 07:19 PM
You're subwoofer LPF is set a little too low, set it from 60-80 htz. SSF should be near or at tuning frequency.

Turn up the HPF on the mids, set it around 60hz and go up from there. They can't bottom out on low notes if they aren't there.

Does your HU have a subwoofer output level? It has to be up at max to set the gains right.

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 10:19 PM
You're subwoofer LPF is set a little too low, set it from 60-80 htz. SSF should be near or at tuning frequency.

Turn up the HPF on the mids, set it around 60hz and go up from there. They can't bottom out on low notes if they aren't there.

Does your HU have a subwoofer output level? It has to be up at max to set the gains right.

Any tips on tuning the the component set some more?

Theres three switches on the amplifier, LPF, Full, and HPF, I managed to stop the popping by switching to the HPF. But theres no real midbass now, and the subwoofer is not playing any notes higher than the 40-45hz. '

I'll go outside and play with it a in a minute though. I thought most people dont even have to mess with any kind of bass or subwoofer outputting options to get large amount of bass from their system.

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 10:45 PM
Any tips on tuning the the component set some more?

Theres three switches on the amplifier, LPF, Full, and HPF, I managed to stop the popping by switching to the HPF. But theres no real midbass now, and the subwoofer is not playing any notes higher than the 40-45hz. '

I'll go outside and play with it a in a minute though. I thought most people dont even have to mess with any kind of bass or subwoofer outputting options to get large amount of bass from their system.

Played around with it and got no real positive response from anything you told me. Noticed the subwoofer kinda bottoms out below 34hz, the tweeters distort heavily on bass hits, the mids pop unless the amplifier is set to HPF.

Pretty awful to be honest, Im very disappointed. Im going to go to a professional audio shop tomorrow and see what they're opinion on the situation is.

zack39648
06-22-2008, 11:35 PM
sounds like thats what you need to do before anything bad happens to that nice stuff you have sound like a tuning issue not technical but i could be wrong wish you luck get this thing slamin .....!!
ps; be aware of what " professionals" you take it to and make sure they know you know your stuff and not some random guy that doesnt like how his setup sound cause some will fabricate problems that you dont have just to make money. i can garuntee to first thing they will tell you is you should have let them install it because they are professionals.... just a warning tho not everyone is like this just be carefull!!!

Trepkos
06-22-2008, 11:41 PM
sounds like thats what you need to do before anything bad happens to that nice stuff you have sound like a tuning issue not technical but i could be wrong wish you luck get this thing slamin .....!!
ps; be aware of what " professionals" you take it to and make sure they know you know your stuff and not some random guy that doesnt like how his setup sound cause some will fabricate problems that you dont have just to make money. i can garuntee to first thing they will tell you is you should have let them install it because they are professionals.... just a warning tho not everyone is like this just be carefull!!!

*****, because thats very true and I wish that some of the people on this forums were locally about since they would probably be alot more helpful.

zack39648
06-23-2008, 01:06 AM
just go in there with knowledge as you must from doing research on the forums and the internet just make sure they know you do know what your doing and they should be str8 up with you.. good luck

Trepkos
06-23-2008, 04:05 PM
Well, I went into the audio shop today and got my professional opinion, he didn't actually come outside and look at the system or play with the settings but more-so just talked around the information I was giving him.

He basically said for me to flatline or reset the HU and turn all the settings down on the amplifiers, then turn the subwoofer output up on the amplifier and set the gains from there and then set everything else on the amplifiers from there and then the HU EQ settings.

He also told me that I knew too much "intellectual bookie horse ****" about car audio.

Followed what he told me and Im getting a better performance, I may have to move the midbass to about 100hz on the crossover because its having trouble hitting notes in the 80-85hz range. The subwoofer is hitting fairly hard with the bass boost on the remote and amp turned all the way down, the gains turned mostly up and the HU subwoofer setting on +5(out of +15).

I set the HPF a little higher which allowed me to set the sensitivity on the sundown amplifier also higher, unfortunately this makes the system mids and highs extremely loud it also causes the rainbow crossovers to attentuate the tweeters. I can probably grab some silver wire jumpers and modify the crossovers to get rid of the tweeter volume precaution mechanism. I was also reading the rainbow audio manual for the first time since the component set installation(I just read it to learn how to install the tweeters in their flush mount cups), and I learned that the crossover can be manipulated for alot of different sound and power management with the aid of taking silver wire jumpers and arranging them on the crossover circuit board, that'll be interesting.

With the HU subwoofer setting higher and the gains set quite high, the bass is much more clean and responsive plus I set the LPF so it plays over a wide spectrum of frequencies ranging from 25hz to 70-80ish. Now to readjust the midbass and stop the tweeters from attenuating(though I do not want to kill the tweeters).

zack39648
06-23-2008, 07:27 PM
thought thats what you have been doing hence thats almost the corect way to set amplifier gains just make sure more gains but not to much and less to no boost set your gains with the sub control almost if not all the way up on cd player with eq flat then you will get the loudest bass at almost to full volume not loud bass mid volume then distorting bass all the way up then adjust the eq to best curve you should be set for some major bass

Trepkos
06-24-2008, 01:08 AM
Yep still tweaking, I'm thinking about setting the subwoofer output to +15 on the HU and then setting the gains a bit lower to even it all out. The mids and highs are coming along, I moved the Front speakers EQ to the octave of 90hz with a -18db slope per octave on the HU. I played some test tones with the two channel amplifier only activated and found that the 70-79hz range was causing the midbass to bottom out, the 80-89hz wasn't really really bad, the 90-99hz was playing smoothly.

One of the worst sounding songs on my system(which is saying alot now, since its starting to come together) is Fake It by seether. Where the beginning intro with static is amplified by the tweeters making it sound awful where as on computer speakers, that static and distortion is muffled.

Oh yeah, one of the bars on the grille came off when two of the screws broke holding it in, Im guessing from an incident where the seat was moved back and must have broke it. I will fix that, more ensolite is coming in tomorrow, which I may put behind the 6.5"'s in the door. And maybe do a bit more deadening work, Im planning on cleaning the inside of the truck a bit and also places on the door where there is tar from the deadening material.

Trepkos
06-24-2008, 10:07 PM
Hmmm.. I did an install in an older f150 single cab but it had about the same room in the back and there is no way that would fit. Hopefully it'll work out....gunna be tough tho

Ahem


I want ot know how in the hell your'e doing 3.35 in that truck, unless you're a midget. I had a 99 f-150 single cab, had many of different setups, best is the one that the box is still sitting in the garage. Built for one 12" woofer at 40hz, took up all the room I had near about, and it was 2.25, IIRC

I lost a few clicks on the seat with that, it was almost uncomfortable to sit in and I'm only 5'10

Yeah, the seat had to go up just a bit because of the top depth but its not bad at all. Actually If I cut into the back of the seat there is the possibility of getting even more room. Specifically the area which meets the upper ridge of the box.

BR3tt
06-25-2008, 08:33 PM
I'm gonna attempt to put 2 12's in my Ford Ranger, regular cab. I want to put 2 kicker 12" L7's. Any Ideas?

zack39648
06-25-2008, 10:58 PM
its not possible to put 2 12's in a sigle cab ranger been there tried that unless there shallow mounts you and your passenger with be kneeing the dash ....

BIGsherm7272
06-25-2008, 11:40 PM
Yep still tweaking, I'm thinking about setting the subwoofer output to +15 on the HU and then setting the gains a bit lower to even it all out. The mids and highs are coming along, I moved the Front speakers EQ to the octave of 90hz with a -18db slope per octave on the HU. I played some test tones with the two channel amplifier only activated and found that the 70-79hz range was causing the midbass to bottom out, the 80-89hz wasn't really really bad, the 90-99hz was playing smoothly.

One of the worst sounding songs on my system(which is saying alot now, since its starting to come together) is Fake It by seether. Where the beginning intro with static is amplified by the tweeters making it sound awful where as on computer speakers, that static and distortion is muffled.

Oh yeah, one of the bars on the grille came off when two of the screws broke holding it in, Im guessing from an incident where the seat was moved back and must have broke it. I will fix that, more ensolite is coming in tomorrow, which I may put behind the 6.5"'s in the door. And maybe do a bit more deadening work, Im planning on cleaning the inside of the truck a bit and also places on the door where there is tar from the deadening material.

I use to have the same HU as you. Turn the sub level all the way up (+15). That will help your amp receive a better signal from your HU. But remember, sub level and bass level are two different things.....leave the bass at 0. But put the sub level all the way up. Should help.

Trepkos
06-26-2008, 01:06 AM
I use to have the same HU as you. Turn the sub level all the way up (+15). That will help your amp receive a better signal from your HU. But remember, sub level and bass level are two different things.....leave the bass at 0. But put the sub level all the way up. Should help.

I have the SW all the way to (+15).

I didn't know there was a bass level adjuster for the head unit.

Ive played around with probably every setting there is to find on the that HU, including the DTA, X'Over, Wow HD, etc, etc. I was wondering where the simplified mids, bass, treble, and other options have went off too.

Currently I'm at +15 on the HU, gains at 3/4, the HU cross over set on the front speakers going 90hz area, -18db/octave on the curve. The SW set to around 70hz, -12db/octave on the curve. The LPF is set to around 80-90ish, and subsonic is at 25hz, on the amplifier.

Remote bass boost on 0, amplifier bass boost on 0 db.

Bass is extremely responsive, sounds great, real sharp, hits everything in its range while still sounding great; and it slams on hard hitting songs. So the bass boost is not really needed.

Now the mids and highs are all the hype, with the HPF set at about 80hz, sensitivity knob turned at about 1/6 of the way up. The rainbow SLC's sound amazing, loud, and crisp. They also complement the bass very well and since I listen to almost everything, they're ability to make every type of song no matter what genre or date sound great is always a plus for me.

Only issue left is a small rattling noise(hardly audible) which happens in the direction of the right door only when the vehicle is cranked up. The crossovers need to be set, I dont know if Im going to venture too far off from the current default, but the tweeter attenuation is almost unneeded and is something I am to get rid of.

twistedmind
06-29-2008, 02:54 AM
pics of final install?

Trepkos
06-30-2008, 01:50 AM
I did some number crunching tonight and the final cost of the system and every part and piece that went into it totaled at close to $2400.

It sounds great, theres something loose inside the right door panel I believe that is rattling which when I take the door panels off again to put in the layer or two of Ensolite behind the mid bass, I'll fix that.

Need to do some reconfiguring on the crossovers which will mean the seats coming out again... :(

Finalized pics and vids coming soon.

Low_e_Red
06-30-2008, 02:45 AM
I will be driving through in about a week. I dont mind stopping to help you and make sure things are set right. Just let me know.

Trepkos
07-01-2008, 01:58 PM
pics of final install?

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN2021.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN2022.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN2023.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN2024.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN2026.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN2027.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll101/Trepkos01/DSCN2028.jpg

energizedsbs
07-01-2008, 03:31 PM
how tall are you?

jdc753
07-01-2008, 03:55 PM
Looks pretty good. You sure found a way to cram a huge box into that truck. Seat certainly looks like its pushed pretty close to the dash. Hope you can get that rattle squared away.

twistedmind
07-01-2008, 07:46 PM
looks good, only thing d like to ask is why did you not make the box 6 inches taller and shave 3 inches from the front in order to get the same volume?

The box would have still been below the window.

Was it because of mounting depth?

Trepkos
07-01-2008, 10:02 PM
how tall are you?

6'2"

Trepkos
07-01-2008, 10:02 PM
Looks pretty good. You sure found a way to cram a huge box into that truck. Seat certainly looks like its pushed pretty close to the dash. Hope you can get that rattle squared away.

Its not, and the rattle is pretty unnoticeable unless you're me.

Trepkos
07-01-2008, 10:03 PM
looks good, only thing d like to ask is why did you not make the box 6 inches taller and shave 3 inches from the front in order to get the same volume?

The box would have still been below the window.

Was it because of mounting depth?

Yeah, the mount depth and also if I was going to fix the seat so it could go back 2 or more inches, I could cut into the back of it so that the top of it would sit inside the back more so than pushing against it.

Trepkos
07-07-2008, 12:50 PM
An update.

After alot of suspicions with the substage of the truck I am returning the Hifonics amplifier and recieving a full refund from the ebay store I bought it from. Tonight I will hopefully be testing on my old txi1008d amplifier in my friend's vehicle and see how well it works.

More than likely I will be buying a new amplifier and at the moment I am looking at the eD NINe.1 or the AQ 1200d, I was looking at a sundown 1000.1 but with its price and power output in comparison to the other two....

bds0688
07-07-2008, 01:24 PM
***** about the amp. I notice you have a Pearl sticker, drummer?

Very nice install. Something I strive to do some day.

got-one-eight
07-17-2009, 04:31 PM
Awesome build... but i will pay you to clean that motor. Sorry... ive been around show cars my whole life and I cant stand a dirty motor. A clean engine bay would really compliment your under hood install. Great job.

DB-Audio
07-17-2009, 08:09 PM
nice build any vids?

snfsh79077
07-18-2009, 10:55 AM
You can mod your back wall to allow that box to sit back 2 or so more inches.