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View Full Version : Best way for L7s?



dye4metal
04-20-2008, 09:29 PM
Right now i have 2 12" l7s and the box i have is a little to big for the ports and what not and i personally dont think that its sounding to its full potential. the box deminsions currently are about 42x23x15 and theres 2 slot ports in the middle that are probably only a inch or 2 wide.... by 15. its pretty loud in the lows. right now the face and ports point to the back hatch in my 02 tahoe and its pretty **** loud. i really want to build a new box but i was wondering whether i should have the faces downfiring upfiring or same way and location of the ports. does any of that make a difference??

king ranch
04-20-2008, 09:35 PM
subs up and port back people say is the best way to go

and with those dimensions u r looking at 6.8 cuft befre any displacement after port and sub you are prob looking around 6 or slightly under depending on the port size

but either way thats about the biggest those subs need for airspace to make louder only thing you can do is change tunning freq

do you know what its currently tuned to

also what are you powering these with

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 09:39 PM
well this was the 1st box ive ever built and what not but we kinda messed up the ports but its supposed to be 35. but its weird b.c it sounds way out of tune, like the highs u can bearly hear but lows get louder and louder. idk if its really supposed to be that way, the other thing is the box is 1/2". and im powering it with a hifonics brutus 2006.

king ranch
04-20-2008, 09:49 PM
well i would use 3/4mdf stronger and thicker with only 1/2 u have 7.3 before any displacemtn so even after its still prob alot of airspace for those subs

i had my box custom built to fit in my truck in place of my rear center console in my king ranch by mobeious so contact him if you want a good box built or for him to design you one for a lil cash

anyway he did mine 33 tall double baffle 28 deep and 13 wide came out with 5.6 before any displacement nd he went with a aeroport one 6" port tuned at 34hz and afet sub and port displacement i have right around 5.2 for both subs which is about prime for these subs i heard

but like i said contact him for a good build

what ohm are your subs 2 or 4ohms

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 09:54 PM
yea i think theres to much airspace for them and thats y they sound like they do. i personally wouldnt want anyone to build me a box because the only reason i made mine was because my dad was out of town and he deals with wood work on a daily basis so. i just need some designs brought up.

my subs are dvc 4ohm so with my amp im at 1ohm.

how do yours sounds? cause i mean i can only listen to certain low bass rap songs and what not for it to be really loud.

adas
04-20-2008, 09:59 PM
Hey wassup man, your right around me, I need to hear it sometime!:D

SO you made a box from 1/2" mdf, dual chamber with slot ports that seem too small....

I could help you make/deisgn a new box no prob, I'm in lakewood ranch. Sounds like you need subs up port back, single large port, common chambered. They're L7s so they love port area....good start would be 100"^2 of port.

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 10:07 PM
woahhhhhhh where u at in lakewood ranch? you go to the high? i actually live in the country club. yea the 1/2" reason though was lowes beleive it or not was out of the 3/4 which was ridiculous.

adas
04-20-2008, 10:13 PM
:laugh: Small world, I'm in greenbrooke. Never had lowes run out on me. Dont go to LWRH but have ton of friends there. You've probly seen me around, White M3.

1/2" is probably flexing like crazy on you, for a smaller box then your running I use bracing on 3/4" because without it, it does vibrate.

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 10:20 PM
yea i got a black tahoe in the country club, ****in real small.

yea the 1/2 flexs, would u happen to design boxes? im pretty lost on it. if it has anything to with like building it or installing it then i can do it. the box we built up tho is alright in quality. it is double baffled tho so its not to bad.

btw how do like the DDs? im pushing towards selling the l7s and getting like 4 or 6 12s. just something to max out my hifonics 2006 even though i melted the fuse holder last night haha.

adas
04-20-2008, 10:30 PM
<3 the DD's, actually am ordering either 3512's or 9512's from my buddys dad, who is a local dealer and I can get a GREAT deal for ya. I'm doing 2 18 3518's in my buddys tahoe very soon, 1 18" for now until he gets a new amp, should be ******.

Yeah i can design boxes, I'm a great fan of aeroports but slots are easy too. We can meet up at subway like tomarrow/ during the week and take a listen to that box, and see if you like dd's.

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 10:34 PM
yea thatd be straight, theres a couple things i want to do with it my tahoe right now, i want the big 3 cause my lights still dim somewhat with a 8 farad cap(seemed to help alot) cause my stock alt is like 135 and i dont feel like dishing 300-400 bux for a new one.

im kinda on the side of ditching my alpine type Rs in the doors right now, i have a hifonics zeus 6406 for all the doors too, but i can tell it way over powers those Rs and the speakers say they are rated at 100 watts rms? i just want it louder.

i wonder what options i would have with 2 18s on my 2006 amp?

adas
04-20-2008, 10:44 PM
Well, 18's are only in the 3500 series and up. You can do 2 of them on the brutus, but it wouldnt push em. 4 1512's or 15's would be pretty **** loud:D

That's if we're talking DD's You could do some different 18's but besides MJ18's that are supposed to be pretty good, I'm not a fan of 18's with less then 1000w rms a peice.:crap:

Compenent wise, I know whatcha mean man. But i'm sure we can sqeeze something out of those type r's with the EQ. name a time tomarrow we can meet up if you want.

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 10:51 PM
itll prob be like either tuesday or thursday cause i want to get that fuse holder i just ordered.

but i think i blew my front right type R already, ****er pops when it gets really loud :/

i just want some space in my back, but the only way i could do the 18s or even 15s would be from what i sell these L7s for, i mean i paid 275 for both which isnt to bad. how much u think those 1000w 18s would run a peice? i mean it cant be that much more than these L7s cause the power range is the same.

adas
04-20-2008, 10:57 PM
$275 won't get you much....at least not better then l7's. These are the MJ18's....they'd get a bit louder then the L7's because of cone area, but that's it. You could get 1 DD 3518, but it'd be a little more.

Tuesdays cool, I got time whenever. I'm guessing you blew a fuse? lol

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 11:01 PM
i was thinkin 2 of those 3518s cause they are like 1200 watts rms and thats not to under powered on my amp? but im sure i could get around 300-350 for those subs and id have about another 100 or so to dish out for new ****.

actually hittin this party up out on 64 and was bumpin and when i was leavin my subs hit for about a min and then they kinda bumped in and out, and my cap voltage said like 6.75 and i was like woahh. popped the hood today and saw this
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t320/dye4metal/001.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t320/dye4metal/004-1.jpg
i kinda need to get a run of 0 for the brutus :/ thats another thing i want to change but i paid like 15 bux for the whole 4ga kit and 8ga 4 channel kit.

king ranch
04-20-2008, 11:04 PM
hey i was just wondering not to get off topic but if he uses that 1/2 mdf how do you properlly brace a box like that besides double baffle

just curious

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 11:07 PM
my box isnt braced in anyother way besides that and i really dont think it vibrates to much and ive had about 3 people sitting on top of it before when driving around bumpin so.

king ranch
04-20-2008, 11:08 PM
adas just curious figured you would know how do you properlly brace a box

adas
04-20-2008, 11:14 PM
adas just curious figured you would know how do you properlly brace a boxYou can use threaded rod, across the large panels of the box to stiffen them up, you can use peice of mdf running across the box, and also the large 45* corners can help brace sides from flex.

And bro, $15 4ga kit to a 2000w brutus? Theres your effing dimming issue:eek: Not to mention, that fuseholder is cheap as hell. You NEED the 2ga at least, of good ***** plus the big 3, and the dimming will go way down, so you won't need the cap anymore either. Your fuseholder shouldnt have melted from a burnt fuse, looks like a bad crimp and the wire was arcing inside that side in the picture.

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 11:19 PM
well its 4ga wire, idk how cheap wire actually gets but its whatever, its worked fine haha. ive got money in the amps and speakers, not to much wiring.

i would just do a run of 0 if it really makes that big of a difference.

adas
04-20-2008, 11:31 PM
well its 4ga wire, idk how cheap wire actually gets but its whatever, its worked fine haha. ive got money in the amps and speakers, not to much wiring.

i would just do a run of 0 if it really makes that big of a difference.Ever heard of car audio being 90% install, 10% speakers? It applys completly to this. The better your wiring, the better your install, which means more power, better sounding, and less dimming.:)

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 11:34 PM
i can see your point. haha i bet it sounds like a really ****** install to you. i did do everything my self tho its really not that bad, but the fact that i have small wire and ****ed the box up for the subs.

where would i go around here to get 0ga wire anyways? i would leave that run of 4 and hook the 4 channel up to that take th 8 out.

adas
04-20-2008, 11:46 PM
i can see your point. haha i bet it sounds like a really ****** install to you. i did do everything my self tho its really not that bad, but the fact that i have small wire and ****ed the box up for the subs.

where would i go around here to get 0ga wire anyways? i would leave that run of 4 and hook the 4 channel up to that take th 8 out.Bro, I understand i'm 18 i do my stuff myself too...I've had friends with MUCHHHH sh!ttier ideas and wiring. i've done my share of F*** ups:laugh:

To get 0ga around here, 2 choices are mad marks and autotronics. Both charge up the ***, but i'm friends with mark so he usually givies me a good deal on anything there. best idea, get some 1/0 from knu koncepts which you can save quite a bit on. KLM works great.

dye4metal
04-20-2008, 11:50 PM
I dont even really want my car near marx hahaha. Theres a list of things i want to do and idk how much its gonna cost, i guess you could give me a price range.

Do the Big 3, Do a Run of 0 guage for the brutus, and swap out the 2 12s i have,

nothing wrong with the kickers but i dont think i would want to build a new box when in reality thatd be a waste of time cause i want something that is louder. hence those 2 18s or so, or 15s.

adas
04-21-2008, 07:13 AM
Building a new box will probably be surprisingly louder judging by what your describing, besides, if your building yourself, it takes like $30 and 4 hours of time.

run of 1/0, I'd say 23' of power, then 8-10' of ground so you have enough for the big 3. it's $1.75 a foot so it's not too bad at all;) http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLM0BL

2 3518s is going to run you a little over $700, 4 1512's is going to be about 700, 2 2515's is going to be about $500.

At least for now I would honestly build a new box first.:)

dye4metal
04-21-2008, 03:23 PM
well i think im gonna order that cable and what not.

i also have a good friend in my grade whos good friends dad is a DD dealer and stuff so im not sure how cheap i could get it, but the kid has a blazer with only one 18 and ***** is sooo loud.

is there a way we could talk off here? aim?