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fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:46 PM
i have this originally posted on the SSA forums and i just realized today that there was a build log section. everything is copied and pasted.
it's not complete so yeah.

alright so well I've been at this since Saturday morning and well i decided i would start up my build log tonight. i have some progress already going so i feel I'm at a pacing start. i got 2 weeks to accomplish as much as i can as I'm on vacation from work. yeah, it's kind of weird to take a vacation and work on your car. lawl. i have no where to go really and i usually take vacations to get a lot of work done. like when i did my fiberglassing. took 3 weeks and wao did those days go fast! anyways. my new rebuild will consist of,
Components: Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5(new)
Comp Amp: Profile AP1040
Alternator: Iraggi 200amp(Ordering soon)CHANGED TO 180amp by Excessive Amperage
Deadener: 60sqft Elemental Designs Edead v1SE², 1 Gallon eDead v3(new)
Head Unit: Alpine 9887(Ordering Soon)
Subwoofer: Fi Audio BTL 15"(new)
Sub Amp: 2 Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D - strapped at 2Ohm
Battery: 2 Optima Red tops(1 Still needs to be ordered or i may switch to a Kinetik)Bought a kinetick hc2400 to replace the redtop, looking for an hc800
Sub Enclosure: 4cuft @ 33hz Kerfed designed by BrianChia from CA.COM
here's a preview.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/1b2cff84.jpg
on a side note ordered 20ft 8ga power wire to run amps to speaker, 20ft of Knu Fleks 1/0ga wire. some RE/USAmps 1/0ga fuse holders. das about it.

well. Saturday morning i began to disassemble the doors and prep them for deadening. i first began with deadening the inside portion of the door. i then added V3 to the outside skin of the door. there are about 8 layers of V3 on each door. i allowed them to sit over night so they can fully cure.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/ef5e185b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/67e56d7a.jpg

on day two i started my morning with putting the car out in the sun a bit to heat up the doors. i then removed the back seat, rear panel, rear sail panels, amps, sub, enclosure. i then prepped the rear panel for V3 and taped off the lower section of the rear window just in case of i got some of the V3 on it.
after all that i began adding the V3 on the panels, after i got a few good coats on it i began deadening the doors. all went well and there is a huge difference on mass. initially i could here a hollow/loud thump whenever i knocked on the door. not is a deep bare thunk. i must admit applying deadener is very time consuming.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e98bc6d7.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/99a3ce3a.jpg

after i deadened the passenger door i took a speaker to do a test fit. and i noticed the speaker couldn't really sit in properly even if there would of been a 3/4" ring under it. so i busted out the dremel and cut it open some. you can notice the opening being round and larger on the passenger over the drivers. it got dark before i could do the drivers so it will be done tomorrow.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/aa556ea7.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/938e82a3.jpg

yep. i know i could of bought a better deadener, but for 60sqft and a gallon of liquid for 159.00. i couldn't pass up. lawl. i will eventually later on buy better stuff and add on as i need it, but for now it's better than having no deadener.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:46 PM
alright so day 3.

todays progress wasn't too much but a little time consuming. i managed to get the components in today. lawl. i cut up some 3/4" MDF from an old speeka box sitting around. used some neon greed clay in between the deadening and the ring. re-run some wires into the door for the speakers and cross over. overall i think it turned out just fine.
now the positioning of the tweet is right above the 6.5. i wanted it in that area cause I'm not a fan of running tweets up high. since i wanted them to get as close to the speaker as possible i figured why not in front of it. lawl. so far it sound good. amp needs tweaking but the position feels comfortable. i have temporally set the up with the cross overs until i get the 9887 so i can switch to active.
i must say though. i feel that the setup sounds a little weird. I'm used to having 4 speakers(2front,2rear) to give me that full/surrounding feeling. right now i can feel the rear being just bare and everything coming up front. so I'm contemplating on weather or not to add rear fill set to a lower volume. i have 2 more sets of 6.5 RSDs in my closet so it's running in my mind.
blah blah here's some pics.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/12374b1b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/7bf6ace9.jpg
i don't know if you can tell but the tweeter itself is sitting on an angle that the door panel provides. the actual tweeter allows for directional positioning as it sits in it's housing cup which is a plus. i also checked for clearance before i even decided to mount the tweeter above the mid and it sits almost 3/4" above.

tomorrow i will be picking up my wood in the afternoon, just gotta wait till i can borrow a truck to pick up 2 sheets. i will then plan out all my cuts on it
in the morning I'm just going to finish removing all the carpeting out of the trunk and continue adding deadener. so far so good. so here's 2 rainbows for you folks. it appeared this afternoon. lawl.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/71b5e124.jpg

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:47 PM
alright well todays progress isn't too much again. still working on the deadener. initially i started out with stripping the rest of the trunk and vacuuming the dirt that was in there. that 3" crack the FG enclosure made allowed a chit ton of dirt in my trunk. after vacuuming i de-greased and started applying some deadener i had left over from the doors as the final layers of the V3 was drying on the rear dash and sail. i then began on adding deadener to the rear panel and sails. most of the rear panel was double layered, and the majority of the center point of the rear dash has 3 layers of deadener.
most of the visible areas of blue patches are holes where the clips all go. the blue line going all the way across is wires that will be deadened to the panel to not allow them to move freely like before.
pics!
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/0b82dd53.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/0ccbad5a.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e0326613.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/3be0bef4.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/5bd18809.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/63634340.jpg

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:48 PM
on a side note the UPS man showed up with my BTL
when he took it off the truck he had to dolly it to my front door. he told me that the box was really heavy. i was like yep, it's about 66lbs. he then asked me what is it? i was like it's a speakers. he just shook his head and have a good one. lawl.
thankfully the sub arrived completely unharmed! wooo!
i have to say this thing is big and heavy, but i think my XXX is running up to it in the same weight. when i picked it up it didn't feel toooo heavy but i don't know. when i pushed on the cone i found it was stiff as fudge. i can barely move the cone down. lawl.
gotta give my thanks to Fi for the sub. Thanks!
pics!
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/7958e298.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e9dc8a71.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/68f63c11.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/b319f113.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/90817667.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/a070209b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/6fe3bf1a.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e7ef5c55.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/0778e6fe.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/36a88c48.jpg

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:48 PM
a comparison of the BTL to my XXX
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/81ecab10.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/a2751359.jpg

that's all for tonight. tomorrow is another battle with the deadening. going to try to complete the trunk. should be quicker since there are no holes for clips for panels and chit. though i think i might only have enough to do the trunk floor with 1 layer and maybe some of the trunk walls. i have to order more but it will be put on wait. i will first take care of the hard to reach areas that won't be accessible when the box is built into the trunk, then save the other areas for later that are easy access. yep.
hopefully by thursday i can start cutting wood. lawl.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:49 PM
WELL!
so yesterday i finished adding all the deadener except for the V3. i left the trunk w/o V3 because i didn't want to make a mess of it in there. so i just passed it down to a friend of what i have left of it. it's not much either only like a quart was left. which really wouldn't be much for the trunk.
the deadener was placed in areas i around the spare tire well, the braces of the trunk and the wheel wells to reduce road noise. much of the area was double layered. the wheel wheels were triple layered. after everything was placed in and the car was driving there was a significance in drop of road noise. i was quite impressed.
here's some pics.
the last of all the deadener. about 15-20sqft.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/b00de212.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/063ce09b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/040fe3a4.jpg
it is exactly the same on the other side of the trunk. i thought i took pictures of it but it seems that i didn't. today i worked on getting everything put back together. after everything was put back i decided on cleaning the interior some since the carpet and seats needed cleaning. i used a carpet cleaner by turtle wax called Oxy power out. worked like a charm!! i was like holy chit!, after i saw how well it took out the stains and how it left my carpet and seats. lawl. i need to use it on my computer chair.
anyways here's after everything was replaced. finally my trunk looks nice and clean like a normal car. cept for RCA's, speaker wires, the battery.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/bd747081.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/3774fa5c.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/09b44762.jpg

on side note on of the power converters for my CCFL halos burned out. luckily i was at a drive through and saw it in a reflection off the car in front of me when it all happened. so i turned them off which saved me from driving around with one halo. lawl
the switch took less that 15 minutes to replace luckily i had 2 more sitting around the house.
as for what cause it to burn up like that, i have no clue. i read about this happening to others before. could just be a bad converter. who knows.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/75bd8315.jpg

i finally was given a saw this afternoon so tomorrow i will start cutting. i won't have the car with me as early in the morning I'm taking the car in to Sears to have the alignment and wheels rebalanced. i found my steering begins to vibrate after 50mph. the rims have proper hub centric rings so i can't say exactly why it's doing what it's doing. also, i checked the tire pressure today and i noticed that the PSI was at 45cold. i was like HOLY chit!. this is how they came to me from wheelsnext. so it has me thinking. the rating on the tires are 50max psi. the rating labeled on the car is 30psi. being that they are after market rims with low pros should the PSI be that high? or should i reduce the air pressure to 30psi for the cars rating? since these are my first set of rims I'm like the noob that doesn't know any better so if someone could be help full and recommend where i should set the PSI int he tires would be great. lawl.
and yes i have searched for information regarding the air pressure for after market rims but i haven't found anything that directly answers my question. anyways I'm going to take a shower.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:50 PM
bah. progress has been slow for the time being but it's because i've been working on the box and setting the kerfs to harden.if you guys didn't know i am currently semi assembling the enclosure outside of the car. that way i can get all my bends settled and locked. my biggest issue is if i were to build the box whole, it would not go through my trunk opening. nor through the back seat. so well for the past few days i spent all day cutting wood. then another day setting the back/side wall kerf. then today iw orked on setting the baffle/port kerf. so far everythings lined up correctly and at the moment looks promising.
pics!
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/f8ad6a3b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/4d7abbca.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/5f6aa61c.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/2d8a1423.jpg


back/side kerf un atached from the bottom board sitting in a corner. it's nice and hardened so it won't bend back out.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/8a61b6fc.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/94cd4d20.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d1233a33.jpg

well for the kerfing i made a nice thick filler paste of saw dust and lots of wood glue. kind of like a 50/50 mix of each in a container till it got nice and pastey and then i just spread it into the kerf notches. after the wood glue dried i applied fiberglass over the inner kerfed bends to add strenght to the cuts. that way i can reduce the risk of having the kerfs bend back out when they are waiting to be assembled in the trunk.resin was also added to the outside of the kerf bends just because. lol. tomorrow i will sand down some of the kerf bend as it's not as curved as i hoped it would be. i can feel the straight lines going down the board in the port so i'm sure with a little sanding i can have it smooth as a babies bottom.if all goes well tomorrow i could probably begin to assemble it in the trunk. woohoo!

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:50 PM
alright. todays progress was a little slow again but everything is prepped and ready to go. i began with sanding down the outside port kerf to remove/reduce it's blockyness(word?). in the pictures it you can still see the lines but that is the pulling of the wood which has caused that. right now if you were to run your hand across it, it's smooth and curved like running your hand around a 4"PVC tube.
i also cut out the speaker mounting hole and got the second baffle placed. the second baffle needs a little more cutting for the speaker to fit in but that will be taken care of easily with a dremel.
other than that everything is sitting apart in the 5 peices it will be to assemble it. right now i'm just pondering on placement of the amps and battery before i start tomorrow. obviously there is no fancy little amp rack to be installed and the amps will most likely end up on top of the box. eh.
well. here's teh pics of the day.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/86a2765e.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d2ab3469.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/974b3008.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/853a3ad4.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/57363fdc.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/71b573ea.jpg

well for tommorrow progress will be slow as fudge. why? well i need all the parts to be glues FIRM before i can slap things around. plan of attack of attack is to lay the bottom board then mount/glue the back/side kerf board and the opposite side. after the glue dries for a few hours(2-3) i will add resin to the area to help seal it up. after the resin dries, i'll add more. maybe a few layers. then sand the resin smooth in the port area. the next following day i'll get the baffle/port in. glue that up well then then resin the entire area a few times. i have a bunch of FG clotch. which i'm not a fan of. maybe 10-12 yards worth. i ran out of mat so i may or may not pick some up locally. chit's expensive as hell to buy down here. w/e i plan i might or might not add fiberglass to the remainder of the enclosure. some food for thought for me. anyways, enjoy and thank you everyone for the comments. if you have any suggestions feel free to add.
on a side note i took my car to sears and got my car alignment done, along with all tires being rebalanced. and i couldn't be any happier. the car is better than before i initially bought it. at fisrst on stocks after 80mph i would have a bare vibration in my steering. it was never a problem as i'm never doing 80mph where i live and we relly don't have highways/turnpikes down here. only time i noticed was when i was up in the mainland which isn't very often. though now it feels much much better.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:51 PM
alright todays progress once again is going a little slow. i started the enclosure assembling and already got 3/5 of the parts glued together.
the process!
first i took a garbage bag, cut it up and taped it into the trunk. that way i would not get excess glue spilled in the trunk. now i left the carpeting and the floor board in the trunk as i want to have a somewhat decent appearance. my initial box in the trunk didn't allow me to put the floor board back into the car which made the carpet sag and looked like crap imo. so well since this enclosure is being built in the trunk I'll leave everything in. i can still gain slight access to w/e is under the floor board. i just have to position the enclosure int he center of the trunk and tilt the front, thus allowing me lift the floor board for w/e reason need be.
ANYWAYS.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d1cdf8c2.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e1c353dd.jpg

i then took the back/side kerf and positioned it in place. i took a bunch of L brackets and mounted them in positions to add pressure of the side board to the bottom board and act as a clap. since there is little space for any clamp of length to fit in a small space i had to go with the L brackets. they worked well though.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/f35db5be.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/c1aec971.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/399a828c.jpg

after i had the 3 boards int he postings that i wanted i unscrewed all the L brackets from the Bottom board, lifted the sides. and ran a thick bead of glue in each area. then repositioned the side boards and screwed them down in their pre-positioned areas.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/c88fef98.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/68842451.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e7602368.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e4e895f7.jpg

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:51 PM
about 3 hours later i go back and do a little check up of how the glue is doing.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/aef054e9.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/a3d321be.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/c2c999b8.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/b3c2a6fe.jpg

so far so good. so i added a nother bead of glue.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/ecf1d2b4.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/a3375b77.jpg

about 6-7 hours later i then removed all the L brackets. underneath them well the glue was still wet. so i removed all the brackets and ran another nice bead of glue. after all the brackets were removed none of the box walls have shifted which is a good sign.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/b421d94e.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/608de994.jpg

well.. i just checked it 4hrs after the last bead of glue and it is almost dry enough to add resin to but not quite. i will leave adding resin till after i mount the baffle on. which will be my goal for tomorrow. i need to pic up some body filler and flat black spray paint to paint this thing. lol, it'll be painted in the trunk so a whole lot of garbage bags will be used to protect the trunk and car.

yep!

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:52 PM
well today i got the baffle/port kerf glued in. i just removed all the L brackets and added it's last bead of wood glue so it should be good to go for resin in the morning. if you guys can notice i lett the 3rd kerfed portion of the port un curved. since it was such a short peice it is HARD and i mean HARD to bend it into shape. i suppose this won't cause much of a problem to the tuning. as long as it stays in the 33hz range i'm fine with it. the same technique used yesterday was used today to mount the baffle.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/ac6bae3b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/4f1129d5.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/ff735af3.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d258b33b.jpg

after i took off all the L brackets and added the last bead i pulled out some Elmers wood filler and my sanding block with 36 grit paper on it. i then sanded all the cosmetic damage of screw holes i made while bracing the port down. i sanded all the areas up flat, then applied a generous amount with my index finger. i even added some to the end of the side port board to smooth that out for paint.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e38648c8.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/3d1a89bc.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/fdd589f9.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/1ab2c2f4.jpg

so tomorrow i have a lot of sanding to do. i test fitted the top board and it teeter todders due to the small side board sitting about 1/8th higher. lol when ever i build boxes i always end up having to sand an edge of a board to get the final peice to fit right. the sanding should take long with 36grit. so i'm not worried about it.after i get the side board leveled right i'll resin it up. sit the car int he sun a bit to speed up the drying process of the resin. then lay on the top board. while the top board is on i could probrably start sanding all the wood filler patches. unless if i get tired and lazy. lol
on a side note i ordered my laternator today. i changed my jmind instead of getting an iragge and went with a 180amp direct bolt on from Excessive Amperage. just too much negative information and reading how a lot of his alts are hits or misses. as long as customer service will treat me good, lets hope EA can provide what i need.
question: does anyone know how long it takes to get an alternator built? lol i'm going to have weverything ready and won't be able to pound at it without my electrical in. :/

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:53 PM
woohooo!
shits lookin' HOT right now. lol
well today i got a lot done. i feel as i accomplished a lot. started the morning out with sanding what i needed to sand to get the top board to sit right. didn't take me but 15 minutes. after then i sleaned up all the dust and then resined the inside of the box. sat the car in the sun with the trunk open for a good 20 minutes then added another layer of resin. i let it sit for another 15 minutes as the resin dried up and then i began with locating qwhere i would get my L brackets in place to brace the box down. after that i layed a thick bead of glue and sit the top board on. i must say the top borad was a ***** to screw the L brackets in to. i only had access to the L brackets from the speaker mounting hole. it was quite un comfortable and i managed to get a lot of dripping glue on me. oh well.
either way the board mounted great. i left it in the sun a good few house then begane to sand the outside of the box. as i sanded i layed multiple beads of glue along the inside of the box just like when i mounted all the other peices.
well after a lot of wood filler and a lot of sanding i was at the point where the exterior of the box could be painted. so i busted out the garbage bags and layed them down all around the trunk area and outside of the car to reduce the risk of getting overspray on the cars paint.
for the paint i used 2 cans of Flat Black rustoleum BBQ grill heat resistant paint. i used it cause it's somewhat weather resistant. plus using flat black you don't need a super perfect paint job to get it to look good.
blah blah blah PICs!
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e91d7c5a.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/950ebb79.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/3505258a.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/fc23f54a.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d0464b0b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/1d4c307f.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/671e01f5.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/f69433e8.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d223e9a9.jpg

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:53 PM
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e1a61f14.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/c28dc5c7.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/c9e89182.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/2221b81c.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/29589569.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/2db37a18.jpg

i think the turn out is great. the port looks a little nasty bit i'm not too worried about it. i think that area was still wet as it took ALOT of paint unlike the outside of the box. tomorrow i will rub off the spray dust that is left on there from the can. add resin the the inside roof of the box. then overlook how i will be mounting the amps to the box.
on saturday i will be heading up to homestead to pick up a kinetik 2400. i will be selling the red top in the trunk. possible to me neighbor or anyone that wants it. 50 bucks. i can't fit this in my engine bay so i have no use for it. it's only a year old. lol.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:54 PM
lol well, todays progress was just clean up and adding resin to the inside of the box. barely any pics today. lol
i like the look of it. all it needs is for the BTL to sit in it.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/f16f3175.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/451a01ae.jpg

initially i wanted to mount both of the amps on top of the bot but i found that the tension bars for the trunk lid don't allow me to. so i have to mount them like so. it ***** when you have a small trunk. lol.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/04c958a7.jpg

i really played it lazy today and just sat around. i ended up sleeping a large portion of the day. well anyways tomorrow i will attempt to mount the BTL, and run some wires. i have to wait till my hc2400 arrives before i can actually hook it up. instead of going to pick it up it'll be shipped. actually cost me less to ship it rather than driving a total of 7hrs for a battery.
tomorrow i will measure the area in my spare tire well so see how i can hide the battery down there.
on a side note my HU was ordered. might be here on monday or tuesday.
other than that i say things are looking pretty good.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:55 PM
well a lot of wiring was completed today. everything is pretty much ready to be hooked up to their sources. i need to pick up some 8GA ring terminals on monday. today i went by a local audip shop and picked up 8 1/0ga copper terminals. though they didn't have any 8's.
well i got the BTL installed also. wasn't as hard to mount. i had more trouble mounting the XXX than i did with the BTL. eh.
well all the speaker wiring is clean, no strands are sticking out of any of the terminals and everything is on tight. the speaker wire may look a little confusing to you but well it's not. lol. Left amp is the Positive, the Right amp is the Negative. the loops are the grounds to strap them. woooooo!
hopefully my battery arrives on monday. tomorrow i might start taking measurments of the spare tire area and create a small mounting crate that way on monday i can just slide it in, lock it, and get eerything powered up.
PICS!
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/59ecc544.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d54581e5.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/67bb8614.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/9b72324d.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/217e2260.jpg

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:55 PM
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/217e2260.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/0cd877a4.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/93ae555b.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/95c5b872.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/6d766edd.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/52a18207.jpg
^^^^^^^ i think i have a new wall paper. or i will after i get that red top out of there. lol
yep. i really wish i could listen to it but i can't. lol. sooooo close though!!
even though all the wires are cut up and good to go i'm thinking of removing all the wires and amps and buying some roll on flat black paint to paint the back of the box. that way i don't have to see bare wood with glue drip. yeah.

Random1010
04-20-2008, 03:55 PM
looks like a ton of work..nice job tho

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:55 PM
well my build is coming close to a complete. i received my kinetik HC2400 yesterday and i started the process of getting all the 1/0ga ring terminals onto their proper wires. i started at 5pm after i got off work and didn't finish all the wiring till 11pm. i tried to keep it clean. :)
i then went out to a publix parking lot that was pretty large so i wouldn't disturb anyone. there wasn't anyone around anyways so yeah. lol
well initially after i set everything to flat i started out with setting the gain by ear on a song i normally listen to on the XXX. i was suprised at the output it had, i was like chit!! when i thought i had the gains set i pop the trunk open and i see the sub just going crazy with overexcursion and i was hearing this wear light popping sound. so i quickly turned it down and started to mess witht he gain and sub sonic filter. after much fooling around i got it to a point where i felt it would be better to have it set by a shop that has the proper equipment. so i set my gains a little low and set my subsonic filter just right so the sub would stop making with the overexcursion and the light poping.
swell i only have 1 pic to so here. it's just a pic of how i mounted my 4chan amp under the speaker box.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/bfb5c05b.jpg

and well here's a little preview of what the sub can do. when i saw this today i was like ****!!!!!onE!!!!
though i have noticed a loss of flex elsewhere in the car. my windsheild, rear door, and rear window don't move as much. it's mostly the trunk. lol
this video here was with all 4 doors open and rear sets folded down. after the vid i put my seats back up. i'm not big on driving with the seats down.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/th_7391314f.jpg (http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/?action=view&current=7391314f.flv)

on a side note i must say i am amazed at how well the sub sounds inside the cabin. nice deep bass. the soundeadener has help A LOT and has reduced 95% of vibration that occured when the XXX was in. my friend was amazed at how there was little to none of noise coming from the rear other then the output of the speaker. now i can actually here the trunk lid making it's vibration but it's very bare and can barely be heard as the bass overpowers it. that will be the first thing i deaden well after i purchase more, other than that the way it is set up i LOVE it.
though i have noticed on a lot of songs i used to listen to with the XXX i have a huge loss of output. i really don;t know why either. somesongs used to get stupid loud with the XXX, but then witht he BTL some of those same songs don't. hmrpf..
i'll get a good video in some time. i gotta feel what sounds best. so for now. enjoy 17 seconds of my trunk moving futher than i have ever seen. lol actually scared me at first.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 03:56 PM
well yesterday i hooked up my trickle charger to my batteries after work at around 5:30. today i didn't take the charger off till about 12:30. it was still charging! voltage when i initially put t on was around 12.30, then today before i took it off voltage was around 14.25. so i set out and started playing some music to find some songs that would drive the car crazy. now i don't listen to these songs much anymore cause i played them out long time ago(lol). but these were quickies that really got things moving. so here goes!
all that noise you are hearing is the camera. if you heard this in person you would not hear any of those noises except for the trunk rattle when standing outside of the car.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/th_d0b88efd.jpg (http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/?action=view&current=d0b88efd.flv)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/th_0739b733.jpg (http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/?action=view&current=0739b733.flv)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/th_4b1d4a48.jpg (http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/?action=view&current=4b1d4a48.flv)
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/th_653dcd9a.jpg (http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/?action=view&current=653dcd9a.flv)
yeah. i'll get more eventually when i find better music and maybe a better camera. lol.

Goindef154
04-20-2008, 04:13 PM
Nice work man, looks and sounds good.

vipervin
04-20-2008, 04:28 PM
thats some flex, nice install

redrider13
04-20-2008, 04:47 PM
nice stuff! sounds like fun too

Falder
04-20-2008, 04:58 PM
or should i reduce the air pressure to 30psi for the cars rating?

the 30 psi rating is for the stock tire size for that car, which you no longer have. Over inflation or under inflation won't throw off your balance, unless you're tire is totally flat.

Your tires psi is only affecting the tread wear, and you'll just have to figure the right spot for that since there are so many variables.

fbi90909
04-20-2008, 05:01 PM
the 30 psi rating is for the stock tire size for that car, which you no longer have. Over inflation or under inflation won't throw off your balance, unless you're tire is totally flat.

Your tires psi is only affecting the tread wear, and you'll just have to figure the right spot for that since there are so many variables.

yeah. they are set to 35psi each tire. the car was taken to sears to get my alignment done which it needed it, then al tires had to be rebalanced.

gordos420
04-21-2008, 02:00 AM
thats some sick *** trunk flex..nice build

DarrenE46
04-21-2008, 09:46 AM
Looks like an awesome build. I am getting ready to start the build on my 2001 Civic Sedan and this thread gave me some great ideas. How difficult was it applying the eDead v3? How much did you use?

the727kid
04-21-2008, 02:19 PM
Awsome build man.. A+!

MikeyB
04-21-2008, 10:04 PM
Very nice man, thats impressive!

fbi90909
04-22-2008, 11:14 PM
thanks for the comments guys. it took a lot of work to get it where it is now. though it's still not done and needs a bit more tinkering.

well my 9887 finally ****ing arrived today. i had to order it from 4 different sites and ended up going to crutchfield as a last resort with overnight. came out to 430.00 :/
thought is the price you pay for inpatience.
i started out with soldering all the wires to the new harness then heat shrinking them.
install went smooth.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/e92d08c9.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/ad23f618.jpg

i've only played with it for a good 2 hours. i'm getting used to the controls and how to perate the unit.
so far it's a nice unit and i like the looks of it. especially the black chrome like color. goes very well with my dash.
though i'm still having trouble setting the EQ. i currently have the speakers on their passive crossovers. i'm having a little trouble understanding the whole EQ system and everything so i'm going to study up on it. i'm going to be ordering a profile ap400 to run my tweets so i can change to an active setup.so far i'm having an issue setting the bass/trebble. when ever i push the rotary knob in multiple times it's only showing me Sub level, fader/balance, and Defeat. though in the manual it reads that if the MultiEQ is set to off i won't be able to adjust the bass/treble. so when i hold the multieq button down for 2-4 seconds i hear a beep and nothing happens. i try again with the rotary knob and the option still doesn't appear.. weird?

i dono.
i'm reading up on the Goint active with the 9887 thread so i can gain some knolwedge on the unit.
seems like a challenge. very confiusing too. :/

still waiting on my alternator :(

15nissen
04-23-2008, 01:32 AM
The install is clean, but i feel that your choking the trunk off from the cabin. I had a

civic and some similar set ups really didn't put up the #'s due to that issue you are

most likely experiencing.

Kinda like the more isn't always better philosophy............................

SRim23
04-23-2008, 03:11 AM
spent 400 bucks on an HU and wont spend 5 bucks on some **** ARMOR ALL!!!! HA HA **** dusty interior.... just busting ur balls.

looks good man. hoping to get start on my install on my civic pretty soon!

fbi90909
04-23-2008, 05:04 PM
lol, yeah the car has saw dust all in the interior. though i have like 4 different bottles of interior detailer. i have so many cleaning supplies for my car it's rediculous. though i might be taking apart the dash to re-work some of the wiring that was done for my relay and meters. maybe replace my gain remote as the led on it is dead. also there is a little thing i have been thinking about for an ipod mount. bah.

as for choking the output with the sub being in it's position a is in the trunk i don't feel it's bad at all. i like the output really. at times it's actually too much. i've gotten out of my car after like 45minutes of abuse and have that pressure feeling in my ears. lol. i might be moving the box a little closer to the trunk lid to see if ther is a difference but in all honesty i like the way it is. this won't be a comp thing but i'd like to get it metered eventually. though that won't be till everythings set up right.

fbi90909
04-27-2008, 03:00 AM
well after messing more with the HU i'm getting quite acustomed to it and it's options. i have one downfall so far with it. alpine states full speed ipod control/scroll. well, i would have to disagree. when you got more than 275 artist on an ipod. it takes a long time to find something to listen to. unlike scrolling thru the actual ipod i can get from a to z in less than 3 secs. it takes me 3-5 seconds just to get thru the A's on the head unit. it does have a jump function like going to different sections of the list. like say it's in the A's. i press a number and it'll jusmp to the D's, another would just to the S's and so forth. helps a bit.
other than that i love the H.U.
well today i came across a problem with the system. i think i blew my 4 channel amp. it still plays but 1 channel is giving nasty output. there's like the groggy like sound coming out of my mid when it plays. initially i thought i blew a mid, so i grabbed a new mid and placed it in it's spot and saw it was doing the same thing. so i thought maybe the RCA's. switched the output and still the same. so i figure it's not the rca and it's the amp. i have to rip it all out tomorrow to pull the amp so i'll leave that for today(sunday). it was dark out so i didn't want to start messing with things. we shall see..

oh, and i cracked my trunk :(
lol
when you look at the pic, look at it from a distance.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/950d0190.jpg
anyone got any remedies on how to fix/brace the strenth of the trunk lid to save it from cracking?

kingNdaCastle08
04-28-2008, 09:07 AM
well after messing more with the HU i'm getting quite acustomed to it and it's options. i have one downfall so far with it. alpine states full speed ipod control/scroll. well, i would have to disagree. when you got more than 275 artist on an ipod. it takes a long time to find something to listen to. unlike scrolling thru the actual ipod i can get from a to z in less than 3 secs. it takes me 3-5 seconds just to get thru the A's on the head unit. it does have a jump function like going to different sections of the list. like say it's in the A's. i press a number and it'll jusmp to the D's, another would just to the S's and so forth. helps a bit.
other than that i love the H.U.
well today i came across a problem with the system. i think i blew my 4 channel amp. it still plays but 1 channel is giving nasty output. there's like the groggy like sound coming out of my mid when it plays. initially i thought i blew a mid, so i grabbed a new mid and placed it in it's spot and saw it was doing the same thing. so i thought maybe the RCA's. switched the output and still the same. so i figure it's not the rca and it's the amp. i have to rip it all out tomorrow to pull the amp so i'll leave that for today(sunday). it was dark out so i didn't want to start messing with things. we shall see..

oh, and i cracked my trunk :(
lol
when you look at the pic, look at it from a distance.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/950d0190.jpg
anyone got any remedies on how to fix/brace the strenth of the trunk lid to save it from cracking?

ive seen ppl weld small bars into the lid to improve strength and reduce flex, but it will make it a bit heavier.

Kold_Killa
04-28-2008, 10:36 AM
Is that remote wire big enough!!! What is that, an 8 gauge remote!!?!

fbi90909
04-28-2008, 10:41 AM
Is that remote wire big enough!!! What is that, an 8 gauge remote!!?!

yeah. it's really 18ga from my relay up under the dash to the trunk. then 8ga from the spare tire well up to the 2 amps. it's just for looks.
so far your the first who's commented on it. :laugh:

fbi90909
04-28-2008, 02:09 PM
well at lunch time i went home and i saw a package sitting on my bed. i'm like wtf is this i'm not expecting anything other than an amp that i know wouldn't be here today. well i find it's my alternator so i'm like hell yeah! i open it up and take pics. so i take it to advanced auto and have them test the alt. they tested it but said there is something wrong with it. something that it wasn't charging sufficiently. the meter would jump up to 10v but not much past it. i don't know what rpm rate they tested it at but i asked if they could tell me what rpm rate it's at and if he could up the rpm rate. he said he couldn't tell but that it should be sufficient enough to make any alternator charge properly.
so i take it to Napa and ask if they could tell me if they can test the load. they tell me they will end up having a problem testing it due to it being an HO alt. that when he puts the information into their system they would end up having to set the system to rate an 05 stock civic alt with an 80amp load. but then it starts juicing 180amps it would show errors.
they recommended me to take it to another place that works on industrial vehicles and they might be able to test it's load output.
has anyone ever come across this when trying to test a high output alt at any of these comercial areas?

fbi90909
04-28-2008, 10:33 PM
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/f08bc928.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/c76deeca.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/b650f3c0.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/03dc141c.jpg
i have to take it to a plaec called R&R deisel. it's a place that works on alternators and marine alternators and electrical equipment along for industrial equipment. maybe they can test the alt before i put it in.
oh, i left my kinetik on the trickle charger allllll day. lol i think my multi meters off.. lol
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/d65cd17c.jpg

IDSkoT
04-29-2008, 12:16 AM
lmao. I love the 8AWG Remote. I might do that for sh!ts and giggles.

But clean install!

I might re-do my install. I'll form it after yours ;)

[If I do end up doing it, I'm getting a 12" Fi Q... and I'll also have to build it in my trunk. However, I don't know how to kerf for *****. :(

fbi90909
04-29-2008, 12:40 AM
lmao. I love the 8AWG Remote. I might do that for sh!ts and giggles.

But clean install!

I might re-do my install. I'll form it after yours ;)

[If I do end up doing it, I'm getting a 12" Fi Q... and I'll also have to build it in my trunk. However, I don't know how to kerf for *****. :(

one of the reasons why i put 8ga remote on the amps is what puzzles me a bit. why would they put 8ga input terminals on remote terminals when most common remote wire is 18-16ga? you got this big'ol input with this rinky dink blue wire. blasphomey!
so 8ga that bish!
i didn't know how to kerf. i just read up on it and had someone design me a box with precise cut sheets.
you can say **** :fyi:

Falder
04-29-2008, 12:56 AM
You figure out a good pressure for your tires? J/W

fbi90909
04-29-2008, 01:03 AM
You figure out a good pressure for your tires? J/W

they riding on 35psi. no issues and the rides smooth.

steveyhustle
04-29-2008, 02:08 AM
very nice build i like that 8gauge remote as well **** the small blue **** haha :)

donpisto
04-29-2008, 02:23 AM
Looks great, but I do have a couple suggestions. I'm sure that rear deck rattles. Not sure if it's too late, but if you could spray some deadener on the bottom of the rear deck, get a nice few layers, it will help a good bit. Also, not sure if you deadened just the outer portion of the door or if you did the inner as well. If you didn't do the inner, I highly recommend it. As for the trunk lid, where it locks into place near the bumper there are two bolts...if you loosen those and lower the latch (will be a couple millimeters) it will help reduce rattling and keep the pressure in the trunk more.

I do have a question though, are your tail lights blacked out or smoked? They seem to be a dark smoke, but I don't know if there is sunlight that's causing it to look like that. If it's smoked, did you do it yourself, or how did you get it done?

fbi90909
04-29-2008, 11:30 AM
thanks for the repies guys.

don, yeah i deadened the inside of the door panel or what is the outerskin of the door panel. the rear panel doesn't rattle much anymore but it is not noticable at the volume levels i play it at. on my first install one of the methods i used to reduce that panel noise was a tube sock. the main issue was the 3rd brake light hump was making contact with the glass which would cause nasty slapping and rattle.
pic:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/100_0632.jpg

well the sock isn't there but i have a microfiber towel in there. it covers my 3rd light but a member on SSA has given me a possible solution to help the issue w/o me having to cover the 3rd light.
as for the latch from where the trunk lid locks in place i have already repositioned it when i ran my XXX to reduce rattle. lol, i just got ot get more deadening to cover the trunk lid. i'm considering on using expanding foam for the inner cavities then puttings deadening on it all when it's ready. that should take care of alot of the rattle. i just gotta wait for the second tax monies to arrive.
em the tint on my tail lights are VHT Nightshades. i spray tinted them to a degree where they looked smoked. i didn't want them blacked out but when you look at them in person at a far distance they will look straight black to you. but up close maybe 10 ft away you'll see them more of a smoked while still being able to see a hint of red. which is how i wanted them. i didn't want them too dark to get me pulled over and such, yet i wanted them dark enough where it will still be clearly visible for when i brake. so far i've never been pulled over and have had NUMEROUS and NUMEROUS cops behind me. all is well...
here is how i did it.
it's like a semi tutorial.
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=12817

donpisto
04-29-2008, 12:20 PM
Thanks for the info...and yeah, that 3rd brake light caused a lot of rattles in my Accord, till I decided to take it out. I haven't had it in for half a year now and haven't gotten pulled over. Out of curiosity, what is the method the member on SSA mentioned to you without having to cover the 3rd brake light?

As for expanding foam, that is a great idea. I would do that myself, but the lights are on the trunk lid. I did put expanding foam in the rear quarter panels and the c pillars and it made a HUGE difference. I'd say doing the trunk lid will make a very big difference and you'll be happy.

Thanks for the link on the lights, I appreciate it.

Powers
04-29-2008, 01:40 PM
I like that box design. :)

fbi90909
04-29-2008, 11:24 PM
:eek:thanks for the comments guys

alright so today i took the alt over to R&R to get the alt tested. when i get there a guy is like, you're going to have to come back in like an hour so we can test it cause the alt guy isn't here. so an hour later i return. the guy looks at the amp. i explain my situation. then he's like, i'm not going to test this for you. we can't test it we don't have the plug for it. i ain't going to test it. and walks off.
i'm like. :confused: then said **** you *****es.. in my head. lol
so apparently no one in key west can test the alt for me.. great.. so i had to take the risk and just mount the alt. well i looked up a how to. followed insturctions while replacing all my belts and 3.5hrs later. it's in and running.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/7ab924c4.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/b962fc37.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/302e88cf.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/a357723e.jpg

no sparks no clicking nothing. seems to be working smoothly. though my meter on the car read it's max voltage at 14.1 for startup/warm up
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/0686d3b5.jpg

as the car reached it's warm up level and it started to idle like normal the voltage hovered around 14.0v i haven't taken the car out for a drive but so far it's charging at least. as fow how many amps it's producing i can't tell. i don't have a clamp meter so :/
tomorrow morning on my way to work and such i will keep my eye on my meter to see how the voltage is cooperating. hopefully the alt will last me.

oh, did anyone else in florida look at the sun today???
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/fef6db78.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/3d28ad4c.jpg
that ring was crazy visible.
took pictures behind my cars window tint so it would come out. the center of the sun had a black patch but didn't show up on the picture.:eek:

Andrizzle
04-29-2008, 11:33 PM
moisture ring.

Also gj on the alt... And u have the meter maxed out and its only reading 14 on cold?

fbi90909
04-29-2008, 11:38 PM
oh yeah. and as i was removing rim of the car to gain access to the alt i discovered this on my rims center cap cover.
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n104/fbi90909/24455653.jpg

those mother puckers at sears dented the holy hell out of it. now i gotta buy a new one :(

fbi90909
04-29-2008, 11:46 PM
moisture ring.

Also gj on the alt... And u have the meter maxed out and its only reading 14 on cold?

meters not maxed out. on stock alt in the morning and such it's gone up to 14.4
though that's when i have 2 batteries on the car.
right now i only have the batt in the engine bay which is a 3yr old half dead battery. lol barely enough cranking amps to start my car.
well when the car was turned on and testing i never put my foot on the gas. i was just watching the idle rate and how it reacted when my headlights were turned on along with the a/c and every other unit in the car that draws current. lowest the voltage dropped was 12.4 but thwas was with all the lights on and max a/c. still on the weak battery.
tomorrow i will see how it works with the ride to work. thursday i receive my new 2 channel amp to replace the gimp 4chan amp. after the 2 chan is back in i'll be putting the kinetik back in the trunk. though i feel i won't get acurate results as the kinetiks been sitting on a trickle charger for 3 days. the battery itself will probrably maintain the cars voltage pretty high even w/o the help of the alt.

do you guys know if when they test alts that are mounted on the car they use clamp meters or alike to see how much current it's producing?

blackbonnie
04-30-2008, 10:34 AM
what did you cover your box with? and that is some crazy flexin

BrianChia
04-30-2008, 02:58 PM
Nice work! The box turned out great!