View Full Version : 15" IDQv2 box

04-08-2008, 10:33 PM
I'm planning to build a box for one 15" IDQ with ~450W. Would it be okay to use 5/8 MDF instead of the usual 3/4? The reason for 5/8 is because it's the wood that we use where I work at. We have a machine that can cut the wood very precisely.


04-08-2008, 10:57 PM
Yes, it should be fine if you brace it very well, and do a double layer baffle.

04-08-2008, 10:58 PM
what kind of machine......my brother had my speaker baffles cut with a 3 axis CNC machine that was for cutting wood....it was amazing

04-09-2008, 12:24 AM
what kind of machine......my brother had my speaker baffles cut with a 3 axis CNC machine that was for cutting wood....it was amazing
I can't think of the model off of my head, but do you know about the Regal Nails inside of Walmarts? My work place makes all of the cabinets and woodwork for them since my boss owns Regal Nails too. Other nail shops from around the country also order stuff from us.

Double layer baffle means that side where the sub will be mounted needs two layers of MDF right?

04-09-2008, 12:36 AM
Yes... two layers. Also I would use window bracing where practical. Maybe every 12" of an unsupported face.

04-09-2008, 12:55 AM
What is window bracing? As of now, I plan cut 3x3x3 triangles and put them in middle of every side so that it would hold 1 other side.

In the manual, ID lists three different volumes to use for a 15" IDQ in a sealed box: Lg. 1.55 Md. 1.35 Sm. 1.1

What's the differences between the three? Which would I use if I wanted the most SQ and size wasn't a problem?

04-09-2008, 04:58 PM
Also, is it a bad idea to have sides with the same dimensions? Right now, I plan to have a box that's 17x17x12.

04-09-2008, 05:22 PM
It's not bad. Post a pic of your box plan and I can tell you where you might want to brace it.

04-09-2008, 06:38 PM
bracing is non important with a single 12, around 1 cubic foot, and 450w of power.

if the wood is free, use it. make sure its not crappy particle board tho, if it is i would just spend $16 on a sheet of MDF (medium density fiberboard) and see if you can use the machine to cut it. should not have to change anything, possibly just the thickness on the computer controller.

box of any size\shape is fine. do not worry about having a 'symmetrical' box as the speaker inside will displace any standing wave enough that it is a moot point, that is unless you plan on competing in the iasca finals lol. even then, i doubt it would be a factor.

that is nitpicking. and if its that much of a burden on your soul, just make some corner inserts or use some polyfill. *shrug*

so just calculate 1~1.5 cubic feet internally, and double layer your wood. and if i were you - since you have the tools, recess your speaker into the box by cutting the second layer of the speaker hole your baffle to the outer diameter of the speaker, and the first layer will be the mounting (read: inner diameter) of your speaker.

it will look nicer that way :)

otherwise, do whatever you like. it should be a very simple project.

and last but not least, USE "Type I PVA Glue" as tests have proven that it has one of the strongest bonds for wood when not submerged in water lol. (http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/346/best-wood-glue-wood-glue-showdown)

titebond III is a type 1 PVA glue.


04-09-2008, 06:55 PM