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krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 01:34 PM
I just bought the CDA-9887 to replace my CDA-9883, and I want to go active.

I have been reading all over the forum about the KTX-100EQ and going active and blah blah and all sorts of ****.

I am going to have alot of questions about how to acctually set the shyt up correctly without blowing anything.

WHen I run this head unit active, Im just going to run some newer higher quality Shielded RCA's....so my first Question is:

I notice that the 9887 has 3 preamp outs. Obviously front, rear and sub. When I am sending the Rca's directly to my 4 channel amp. I am assuming that the "front" RCA's would go to the 2 channels I want my mids to be on, and the "rear" would be for my front tweeters?... Obviously the gain on the amp for both tweets and mids would be the same, because each tweet and each mid I would want to get the same amount of power.

Also when running active with a set of components...Is getting the KTQ-100EQ worth it? I want the best sound I can get out of these speakers.

Speakers: Rainbow SLX265's(Not the greatest but you know)

I just want the best imaging I can get out of my set.

Just to let you guys know I am VERY impressed with these speakers passive running on the 9883, getting 90 watts per door. So I would imagine that doing this process of going active in the front, ditching the rear for now, and getting this new 9887(With far better SQ Processing than the 9883) Is going to REALLY Impress me.

As said I am still searching and reading about this process, but if anyone want to chime in... feel free. Because I really want to get this done right.

Kris

P.S- Would anyone have suggestions to what kind of wattage I should send each mid and tweet...I know these probably wouldnt be able to take 200 and such, but right now I can bridge my 4 channel and quite the amount of power.

nismos14
03-04-2008, 02:08 PM
I notice that the 9887 has 3 preamp outs. Obviously front, rear and sub. When I am sending the Rca's directly to my 4 channel amp. I am assuming that the "front" RCA's would go to the 2 channels I want my mids to be on, and the "rear" would be for my front tweeters?... Obviously the gain on the amp for both tweets and mids would be the same, because each tweet and each mid I would want to get the same amount of power.

Don't expect the tweets and mids to want the same amount of power, its likely the tweets will require less once you have them hooked up directly. My 9887 is an oddball, the top preout is for the tweets, the middle is for the mids and the bottom is for the sub. I'm 90% sure the top is labeled front, middle is labeled rear, and bottom is labeled sub.


Also when running active with a set of components...Is getting the KTQ-100EQ worth it? I want the best sound I can get out of these speakers.

I've heard yes and no, and I am not willing to gamble with getting it, I am happy with my sound without it.




Just to let you guys know I am VERY impressed with these speakers passive running on the 9883, getting 90 watts per door. So I would imagine that doing this process of going active in the front, ditching the rear for now, and getting this new 9887(With far better SQ Processing than the 9883) Is going to REALLY Impress me.

It should :)



P.S- Would anyone have suggestions to what kind of wattage I should send each mid and tweet...I know these probably wouldnt be able to take 200 and such, but right now I can bridge my 4 channel and quite the amount of power.

I would play it by ear, head room is always good, 80 x4 rms would be sufficient, and I think you'd be fine with that with the gains set appropriately.

XaznKewLguyX
03-04-2008, 02:10 PM
Don't expect the tweets and mids to want the same amount of power, its likely the tweets will require less once you have them hooked up directly. My 9887 is an oddball, the top preout is for the tweets, the middle is for the mids and the bottom is for the sub. I'm 90% sure the top is labeled front, middle is labeled rear, and bottom is labeled sub.



I've heard yes and no, and I am not willing to gamble with getting it, I am happy with my sound without it.





It should :)



I would play it by ear, head room is always good, 80 x4 rms would be sufficient, and I think you'd be fine with that with the gains set appropriately.

i blew my tweeter doing it the other way around because thats how it was on my Eclipse.

nismos14
03-04-2008, 02:11 PM
Can you confirm which way they are marked on the unit itself?

So I guess the top is the rear output?

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 02:42 PM
I can take a look later and see if the top is labled for tweets and the mid is labled for mids. I will definately make sure that they go in the correct input. I knew that the mids would be taking more power than the tweets, but I just didnt know what kind of wattage I should send. As said right now they are running passive, and they still sound amazing.

I just really dont know much about the KTX-100EQ....etc

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 02:48 PM
Edit: Just checked the back of my unit, The top is labled front, middle rear and bottom sub(I guess like all other HU's) But their is no mention to if front is associated with "Tweeter", but I will take your word for it.

SO I will connect The Tweeter to the front RCA's the Mids to the rear RCA's and the subs to the well sub RCA.

Now I assume their is a certain setting inside of the 9887 to "turn on" this active setup?

nismos14
03-04-2008, 02:49 PM
I can take a look later and see if the top is labled for tweets and the mid is labled for mids. I will definately make sure that they go in the correct input. I knew that the mids would be taking more power than the tweets, but I just didnt know what kind of wattage I should send. As said right now they are running passive, and they still sound amazing.

I just really dont know much about the KTX-100EQ....etc

I don't think they have any labels except front rear and sub.

I wouldn't other with teh ktx.

nismos14
03-04-2008, 02:51 PM
Edit: Just checked the back of my unit, The top is labled front, middle rear and bottom sub(I guess like all other HU's) But their is no mention to if front is associated with "Tweeter", but I will take your word for it.

SO I will connect The Tweeter to the front RCA's the Mids to the rear RCA's and the subs to the well sub RCA.

Now I assume their is a certain setting inside of the 9887 to "turn on" this active setup?

First connect the mids, and listen to make sure they are on the right output, THEN connect the tweets, so you don't blow them.

There's a switch on it on the bottom that you flip to put it to active mode.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 02:51 PM
I have the 4 channel MRP-F550:

Details:
4-channel car amplifier
90 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
250 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)


SO If I wanted to bridge my first 2 channels for the mids, to give em more than 90rms, then I could, and just leave the 3rd and 4th channels alone for the tweeters(seems like 90 would be more than plenty if over-kill)

Edit: I was not thinking.

nismos14
03-04-2008, 02:54 PM
I have the 4 channel MRP-F550:

Details:
4-channel car amplifier
90 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
250 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)


SO If I wanted to bridge my first 2 channels for the mids, to give em more than 90rms, then I could, and just leave the 3rd and 4th channels alone for the tweeters(seems like 90 would be more than plenty if over-kill)

I don't think you understand bridging.... If you bridge your 4 channel you will be left with just 2 useable channels. You need to have 4 channels of power for an active setup (2-way active). Briding requires two channels to be combined to allow more power output.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 02:56 PM
I don't think you understand bridging.... If you bridge your 4 channel you will be left with just 2 useable channels. You need to have 4 channels of power for an active setup (2-way active). Briding requires two channels to be combined to allow more power output.

Your right, I was thinking like a *******. I do understand the concept of having a 4 channel amp to run active. I just was not "thinking"

I guess I was thinking of still using the passive x-overs and using it like that, but NVM, I just wasnt thinking.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 02:59 PM
On another note, I have never tuned by ear. I have always tuned by a DMM....so I have really never heard just a tweeter without a mid before.

So with that said, I should continue to send 90rms to the midrange and tweeter on each door? Or a little bit less for the tweeters...

90x4@ 4ohm

nismos14
03-04-2008, 03:05 PM
Just set the gain on the mid slightly higher listen to it that way for a while see if you need more or less on the tweet and go from there.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 03:13 PM
Ill see what I can do.... please if anyone else has any input... please do so....I am open to learning 100% about the active setup for the 9887.

nismos14
03-04-2008, 03:16 PM
It's really the same as running active with any other.

The 9887 has a nice feature for the tweeter, it automatically sets the tweeter at 4khz so that you don't blow it, but of course that is as long as you connect it to the correct outputs. The crossovers and eq's can be stored in 1 - 6, when you disconnect power to the radio those settings stay saved.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 03:31 PM
It's really the same as running active with any other.

The 9887 has a nice feature for the tweeter, it automatically sets the tweeter at 4khz so that you don't blow it, but of course that is as long as you connect it to the correct outputs. The crossovers and eq's can be stored in 1 - 6, when you disconnect power to the radio those settings stay saved.


Because the tweeters wouldnt want anything lower than 4khz correct?

nismos14
03-04-2008, 03:33 PM
No, 4khz is just to be safe, my tweets for instance are crossed at 2khz, but some cannot go that low.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 03:40 PM
No, 4khz is just to be safe, my tweets for instance are crossed at 2khz, but some cannot go that low.

Makes sense. On my 9883 now I have the "Bass" set to 60hz and the "Treble" set to I believe 15khz, but thats all I really can do with this HU.

nismos14
03-04-2008, 03:54 PM
Yup, prepare for change ;)

aeon
03-04-2008, 04:04 PM
for my 9887 i have it connected like this.

front - mids
rear- tweets
sub - sub

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 04:17 PM
for my 9887 i have it connected like this.

front - mids
rear- tweets
sub - sub

Thats not the correct way is it?

nismos14
03-04-2008, 04:20 PM
It is based on the manual, but something is either wrong with mine, or its some type of a fluke. My mids are on the middle, my tweets are on the top.

aeon
03-04-2008, 04:44 PM
i could be wrong but i remember hooking up the front to the tweets and the rear to the mids and all i could hear were the highs playing and no mid bass at all. i ended up switching the rca cables on my amp and it fixed the problem.

i wold go out and check my unit but it's a ***** getting to it.

oh and for the output, the top is labeled rear, middle is front and bottom is sub. check page 40 on the manual.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 05:01 PM
i could be wrong but i remember hooking up the front to the tweets and the rear to the mids and all i could hear were the highs playing and no mid bass at all. i ended up switching the rca cables on my amp and it fixed the problem.

i wold go out and check my unit but it's a ***** getting to it.

oh and for the output, the top is labeled rear, middle is front and bottom is sub. check page 40 on the manual.

funny how when I check the manual that the top is labled rear, but on the unit itself I could havw swore I saw it said front on the top. let me check again.

EDIT: on the unit itself the top is acctually rear, the 2nd rca's is front and bottom sub.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 05:10 PM
It is based on the manual, but something is either wrong with mine, or its some type of a fluke. My mids are on the middle, my tweets are on the top.

if your tweets are on the top, then its under "rear" and if your mids are in the middle than its under "front"

aeon
03-04-2008, 05:11 PM
if your tweets are on the top, then its under "rear" and if your mids are in the middle than its under "front"

that's how i have mine setup.

LaserRed38
03-04-2008, 05:20 PM
Good info here. I'm in the same boat, but with a 9835. Trying to learn as much as possible before I go out and do it. Good luck to you.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 05:26 PM
Okay but how about this question guys.

I had the 9883 previously installed. I had that wiring harness from the 9883 connected all taped and ****. I think I wouldnt have to use the new harness with the 9887 because they are both alpines! the only thing I see different is on the yellow wire on the 9887 wire their seems to be a "box", that the 9883's harness did not have.

And the wire fits into the 9887 just like it suppost to.

nismos14
03-04-2008, 06:25 PM
Okay but how about this question guys.

I had the 9883 previously installed. I had that wiring harness from the 9883 connected all taped and ****. I think I wouldnt have to use the new harness with the 9887 because they are both alpines! the only thing I see different is on the yellow wire on the 9887 wire their seems to be a "box", that the 9883's harness did not have.

And the wire fits into the 9887 just like it suppost to.

I would change the harness, the box is a 1) relay, or 2) fuse or 3) noise filter. Better to protect your investment.

aeon
03-04-2008, 06:26 PM
i believe that the yellow wire and fuse box is the power line.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 06:41 PM
well I hooked it up, and it turned on....so now I am in the process of wiring the amp....everything done from the head end is complete. except for the processing inside the head unit.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 06:47 PM
nismos....Okay now that I have all of the mids wiring and tweeters wiring to my 4 channel amp, should I turn the x overs in the amp set to "Off" and run all the processing(filtering) through the HU?

BTW I am in my shop right now connecting everything so I will be refreshing this thread every couple mins.

krisfnbz
03-04-2008, 06:52 PM
Its playing....but now at a lower volume their is slight static?.....

nismos14
03-04-2008, 07:25 PM
Yes turn filters off from the amps, are you sure you have the rca's connected correctly? Did you swap the harnesses? You need to put in that 9887 harness, yes it will work with the other harness, but you should be using the 9887 harness.

Louie68
03-04-2008, 10:11 PM
Edit: Just checked the back of my unit, The top is labled front, middle rear and bottom sub(I guess like all other HU's) But their is no mention to if front is associated with "Tweeter", but I will take your word for it.

SO I will connect The Tweeter to the front RCA's the Mids to the rear RCA's and the subs to the well sub RCA.

Now I assume their is a certain setting inside of the 9887 to "turn on" this active setup?

Looking at the owners manuel right now and the Fronts are for the mids Rear is for the high range.also underneath the deck there is a switch for 3 way or F/R Sub.Be careful dont want to Ruin your comps.

LaserRed38
03-04-2008, 10:36 PM
What amp do you have? Didn't see it posted.

Louie68
03-04-2008, 10:57 PM
What amp do you have? Didn't see it posted.

He has a alpine mrfv 550 listed

99StangGt
03-04-2008, 11:03 PM
Looking at the owners manuel right now and the Fronts are for the mids Rear is for the high range.also underneath the deck there is a switch for 3 way or F/R Sub.Be careful dont want to Ruin your comps.

Thats wierd I checked out the manual and it does say, highs (Rear), mids (Front). Funny thing is my 9835 is the opposite of that. Why wouldnt they leave it the same.

amedeuce
03-04-2008, 11:06 PM
for my 9887 i have it connected like this.

front - mids
rear- tweets
sub - sub

This is the correct way. Trust me. disconnect your rcas from the rear of the headunit.
Play a 1khz test tone and with the head unit on 3-way, read the rca outs.
The rear for the tweets will read much lower than the front and subs rca outs.
This is because the rear channels are for the tweeters. If you look into the time alignment section in the manual you will see that this is the way it should be set up.
IF you have your volume set at 28 or 29 I don't remember and you read the rcas on the back of the unit with that test tone I mentioned, the fronts will reat about 2 volts and the rear will read 24mV.

amedeuce
03-04-2008, 11:08 PM
Thats wierd I checked out the manual and it does say, highs (Rear), mids (Front). Funny thing is my 9835 is the opposite of that. Why wouldnt they leave it the same.

You're right this is the only alpine unit (9887) that I have seen this way. All the others are the way you describe.
My 9833 was this way, but for some reason it has changed for the 9887.

Trust me
Rear - tweeters
front - Mids
sub - sub

nismos14
03-04-2008, 11:17 PM
Yup you guys are right, pretty stupid.

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 12:09 AM
Yes turn filters off from the amps, are you sure you have the rca's connected correctly? Did you swap the harnesses? You need to put in that 9887 harness, yes it will work with the other harness, but you should be using the 9887 harness.

Well right now I have the old harness connected, seemed to turn on fine. The Older harness was pretty well taped in their. If I absolutely need to switch it I will do so.


Looking at the owners manuel right now and the Fronts are for the mids Rear is for the high range.also underneath the deck there is a switch for 3 way or F/R Sub.Be careful dont want to Ruin your comps.

Right now I have it connected like the following:

Rears: Tweeters
Front: Mids
Sub-Sub

HOWEVER I failed to switch this "switch" on the physical part of the head unit to make it run 3 way?... Im assuming this could be why I am getting a TINY static, either that or I just would need to reset the gains on my amp(going from 2v to 4v). Its so small you cant even hear it unless volume is at 1-2 and you have your hear at the tweeter.(But this was not here with the 9883.) The X-overs on the amp is off.

However I have no freakin idea other than switching the head unit into active mode how to set the xovers in the head unit. Man this is a confusing head unit. I tried reading the manual, but I only understood like half. TOo many options.


You're right this is the only alpine unit (9887) that I have seen this way. All the others are the way you describe.
My 9833 was this way, but for some reason it has changed for the 9887.

Trust me
Rear - tweeters
front - Mids
sub - sub

Got it.

nismos14
03-05-2008, 12:28 AM
Switch the switch asap. To change the crossover settings click A. Sel and select crossover.

Louie68
03-05-2008, 12:32 AM
However I have no freakin idea other than switching the head unit into active mode how to set the xovers in the head unit. Man this is a confusing head unit. I tried reading the manual, but I only understood like half. TOo many options.



Got it.[/QUOTE]

Yeah this unit has alot options still getting the hang of it myself.If you hit the A.Sel button onthe bottom of the rotary knob that should get you into the EQ and Crossover settings.

aeon
03-05-2008, 01:50 AM
you'll get the hang of it pretty quickly once you mess around with it a little.

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 02:01 AM
I def will be switching over to active mode tomorrow, and I do know where the asel button is, and I did see the "crossover" option, just did not know how to configure it.

Im thinking crossing my mids at 60-70hz, but what should I cross my tweets at? I know alot more about mids than tweeters.

aeon
03-05-2008, 02:06 AM
i'm running some hertz hsk165 active and this is my setting

low - 80hz@12db
low mid - 80hz@12db
high mid - 3.2hz@12db
high - 3.2hz@24db

amedeuce
03-05-2008, 10:04 AM
i'm running some hertz hsk165 active and this is my setting

low - 80hz@12db
low mid - 80hz@12db
high mid - 3.2hz@12db
high - 3.2hz@24db

very similar to mine, I'm running Seas drivers and LPG tweeters and 2 AA Assassin 8's the older style ones at

Low - 100hz@24
Low mid - 50hz@12
high mid - 3.2hz@24
high - 3.2@24

In my vehilce these settings blend nicely ;)

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:10 AM
I constantly change my settings I have mids that play down to 40 hz effectively so I've got these set as my 6 xover points:

1:
50hz low lp
50hz mid hp
1600hz mid lp
2000hz tweet hp

2:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
1600hz mid lp
2000hz tweet hp

3:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
2000hz mid lp
2500hz tweet hp

4:
125hz low lp
80hz mid hp
2500hz mid lp
2500hz tweet hp(-3)

5:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
2500hz mid lp
3200hz tweet hp (-3)

6:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
3200hz mid lp
3200hz tweet hp

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:16 AM
I def will be switching over to active mode tomorrow, and I do know where the asel button is, and I did see the "crossover" option, just did not know how to configure it.

Im thinking crossing my mids at 60-70hz, but what should I cross my tweets at? I know alot more about mids than tweeters.

On your setup I would go with 80hz mid, 3200 tweets, and maybe try 2500 on the tweets later on, and I would lowpass the mids at 2500 or 3200

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 10:53 AM
Ah this is going to get confusing.

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 10:55 AM
1. Is the Multi EQ associated with the KTX-100EQ? SHould this be on or off? it says in the manual that it automatically corrects the environment for each vehicle..this sounds like what the KTX does.

Edit: I assume off because then you wouldnt be able to adjust your own EQ settings...?

2. Should I be turning on the Graphic EQ instead of the Parametric EQ?.....WHats the difference.

Im assuming the 7-5 ratio of bands = more options to tune?

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 11:09 AM
i'm running some hertz hsk165 active and this is my setting

low - 80hz@12db
low mid - 80hz@12db
high mid - 3.2hz@12db
high - 3.2hz@24db


1. Low-would be your sub set to 80hz so the highest note your sub would play is 80hz correct?
2. Low mid- would be the lowest freq your mid would play which is 80hz correct?
3. High Mid- would be the highest freq your mid would play @ 3.2hz correct?
4. high would be the lowest your tweeter would play at which is 3.2hz correct?

In summary, your subs only play under 80hz, and at that crossover points your mids pick up anything from 80hz to 3.2hz and than anything higher than 3.2 your tweeter picks up and plays.

I think this makes sense.

I know that I have control of each speaker/channel through this head unit. Im still reading the manual on how I can change these settings for each driver.

nismos14
03-05-2008, 11:32 AM
1. Is the Multi EQ associated with the KTX-100EQ? SHould this be on or off? it says in the manual that it automatically corrects the environment for each vehicle..this sounds like what the KTX does.

Edit: I assume off because then you wouldnt be able to adjust your own EQ settings...?

2. Should I be turning on the Graphic EQ instead of the Parametric EQ?.....WHats the difference.

Im assuming the 7-5 ratio of bands = more options to tune?

You can't do anything with multi-eq unless you connect the imprint. I can't turn mine on or off, you shouldn't be able to either. Try the graphic first, if you can't get it to sound good then mess around with the peq.


1. Low-would be your sub set to 80hz so the highest note your sub would play is 80hz correct?
2. Low mid- would be the lowest freq your mid would play which is 80hz correct?
3. High Mid- would be the highest freq your mid would play @ 3.2hz correct?
4. high would be the lowest your tweeter would play at which is 3.2hz correct?

In summary, your subs only play under 80hz, and at that crossover points your mids pick up anything from 80hz to 3.2hz and than anything higher than 3.2 your tweeter picks up and plays.

I think this makes sense.

I know that I have control of each speaker/channel through this head unit. Im still reading the manual on how I can change these settings for each driver.

1,2,3,4 are correct. You can go to setup, and change the speaker setting to L/R to adjust individual speakers.

MikeyB
03-05-2008, 11:33 AM
Im gonna have to pick up a good set of comps here and a newer hu so I can run active.....

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 11:43 AM
You can't do anything with multi-eq unless you connect the imprint. I can't turn mine on or off, you shouldn't be able to either. Try the graphic first, if you can't get it to sound good then mess around with the peq.

1,2,3,4 are correct. You can go to setup, and change the speaker setting to L/R to adjust individual speakers.

Well see anything is going to sound "good" to me because its such a bigger upgrade from the 9883. I just want make sure it sounds as good as it can with my certain speakers. I know its not going to be really easy to get the "perfect sound" but Id really like to make it sound great.

MikeyB
03-05-2008, 11:57 AM
Im sure after you get everything up and running it will sound much better, but after listening to it and tweakin it you will achieve more "perfect sound" over time.

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 01:33 PM
Ah it ***** today I am at work until 9 and I want to get this shyt done now! And my dynamat, dynaxorbs's and liner came in today as well. Going to finish off the doors tomorrow after work around 4.

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 08:28 PM
Does anybody know the website to get specific time alignment details for different make/models of cars? A friend of mine told me I could go to a website and just enter in my car and it would automatically give me the information I needed to enter into my 9887's time alignment settings.

Kris

nismos14
03-05-2008, 08:46 PM
Does anybody know the website to get specific time alignment details for different make/models of cars? A friend of mine told me I could go to a website and just enter in my car and it would automatically give me the information I needed to enter into my 9887's time alignment settings.

Kris

Never heard of that, but if you find it let me know!

James Bang
03-05-2008, 08:51 PM
1. Low-would be your sub set to 80hz so the highest note your sub would play is 80hz correct?
2. Low mid- would be the lowest freq your mid would play which is 80hz correct?
3. High Mid- would be the highest freq your mid would play @ 3.2hz correct?
4. high would be the lowest your tweeter would play at which is 3.2hz correct?

In summary, your subs only play under 80hz, and at that crossover points your mids pick up anything from 80hz to 3.2hz and than anything higher than 3.2 your tweeter picks up and plays.

I think this makes sense.

I know that I have control of each speaker/channel through this head unit. Im still reading the manual on how I can change these settings for each driver.

Not exactly. The x-over points are not the start or end points. The speakers will still play content above or below the x-over points. This is where the slopes come in to play.

Say you have your sub LP'd @ 100hz.
If you have the slope set to 12db/oct, your sub will play higher than if you had your slope at 24db/oct, because 12db/oct rolls off slower and is not as 'steep' as 24db/oct

Here's a picture example:
http://www.caraudiobook.com/images/crossover_slopes.gif

LaserRed38
03-05-2008, 08:51 PM
****n..let me know too!

James Bang
03-05-2008, 08:54 PM
I really don't like how they switched from ms to cm or in for time alignment.

The new alpine HUs really seemed to have decreased in quality and performance, imo.

nismos14
03-05-2008, 09:12 PM
Mine is VERY good quality compared to the old ones, seems like the things you listed are more symantics than actual quality issues.

James Bang
03-05-2008, 09:17 PM
I also thought the build quality of them were as great as they were before.
The faceplates just don't feel as sturdy to me. Maybe I just miss my 9835

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 10:00 PM
Okay now this is where the problems start to arise.

I went ahead nismos and took the unit out, and switched the switch to 3 way on the actual physical unit itself. I figured how to set the crossover points for my tweets, mids and sub.

I still get the slight static noise, and now when I press and release my brake....their is this "BEEP" sound that comes. Also when I have my car in park, and press the button to switch it into the next gear... just by jingling it in park it creates static in my speakers, even when the volume is as low as just 1/25.

Im about to head home now...but this is freakin crazy. My coworkers have never seen this.

BTW My gains are still set for the old unit the 9883, and I still do have the 9883 harness connected. But this is freakin nuts. Only thing I can think of that is creating this static is the old wire harness from the 9883 where the yellow wire had that fuse box looking thing. But somehow I dont think this is the problem.

I am getting no alternator wine, as I never have with this car.

and I had no previous problems with the 9883 EVER... not anything at all!

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 10:04 PM
Not exactly. The x-over points are not the start or end points. The speakers will still play content above or below the x-over points. This is where the slopes come in to play.

Say you have your sub LP'd @ 100hz.
If you have the slope set to 12db/oct, your sub will play higher than if you had your slope at 24db/oct, because 12db/oct rolls off slower and is not as 'steep' as 24db/oct

Here's a picture example:
http://www.caraudiobook.com/images/crossover_slopes.gif

So your saying for my sub set to 80hz, if I have it at 24DB, it will play less higher freq's over 80 than setting it at 6db?

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:08 PM
^ correct.


I REALLY think you need to swap the harness.

ngsm13
03-05-2008, 10:13 PM
All Alpines AFAIK are...

Front: Tweets
Rear: Mids
Sub: Subwoofer

That's how ALL of them have been back from the 9813 - 9855...

nG

ngsm13
03-05-2008, 10:14 PM
So your saying for my sub set to 80hz, if I have it at 24DB, it will play less higher freq's over 80 than setting it at 6db?

Correct, look at the graphical cut-off point represented on the HU itself...

nG

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 10:27 PM
^ correct.


I REALLY think you need to swap the harness.


Well the only thing different would be the yellow cord. to which instead of swapping the whole harness and untapping EVERYTHING....I could cut the yellow little fuse part from the new harness and wire that into the exisiting yellow wire from he head unit to the factory wiring.

I mean its a little ghetto but its the same thing as swaping the older harness, with alot less work.

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:30 PM
All Alpines AFAIK are...

Front: Tweets
Rear: Mids
Sub: Subwoofer

That's how ALL of them have been back from the 9813 - 9855...

nG

Not the 9887, manual has confirmed and everyones experience has confirmed. REAR = tweets, FRONT = mids, SUB = sub.

Not logical, until you see the placement of the rca outs on the HU... but still pretty weird.

James Bang
03-05-2008, 10:30 PM
So your saying for my sub set to 80hz, if I have it at 24DB, it will play less higher freq's over 80 than setting it at 6db?

yes, that's what i'm saying and what the picture shows.

I don't htink the 9887 has it, but the 9835 has a nice display that shows the x-over network like the picture i posted above

It helps a lot for us right hemisphered people

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 10:33 PM
So i still have this problem with static and "beeping" when I hit the brake.... and static when I am messing around with the shifter in park with my foot on the brake...

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:34 PM
Yea 9887 doesn't have that.

ngsm13
03-05-2008, 10:35 PM
Not the 9887, manual has confirmed and everyones experience has confirmed. REAR = tweets, FRONT = mids, SUB = sub.

Not logical, until you see the placement of the rca outs on the HU... but still pretty weird.
INdeed. Wonder why they switched it up... got a pic of the RCA outs?


yes, that's what i'm saying and what the picture shows.

I don't htink the 9887 has it, but the 9835 has a nice display that shows the x-over network like the picture i posted above

It helps a lot for us right hemisphered people

INdeed. Yet again, wonder why Alpine skimped on that...

nG

Louie68
03-05-2008, 10:37 PM
Does anybody know the website to get specific time alignment details for different make/models of cars? A friend of mine told me I could go to a website and just enter in my car and it would automatically give me the information I needed to enter into my 9887's time alignment settings.

Kris

That would be great if you find anything please post.

ngsm13
03-05-2008, 10:38 PM
That would be great if you find anything please post.

Why not just use this very technologically advanced thing called... a tape measure...?

nG

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:39 PM
INdeed. Wonder why they switched it up... got a pic of the RCA outs?



INdeed. Yet again, wonder why Alpine skimped on that...

nG

Nope no pic, but I think Krisfnbs verified.

krisfnbz
03-05-2008, 10:40 PM
SO when I press the brake, everythings cool. When I release the brake thats when you hear the beep. Meanwhile the small static is on the entire time.

James Bang
03-05-2008, 10:42 PM
Alpine needs to make the 9965 much more affordable. I think it's their only single din they have that's a step up from the 9835.


on a side note: there's a 9833 for $150 shipped in the classifieds and it's still available iirc. WHY it's still available is something I don't understand. IMO, it's better than the 9887, because I don't give a **** about the imprint capability

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:45 PM
A 9835 in the classifieds too for 250

aeon
03-05-2008, 10:46 PM
you think it might your car that's causing the problem? all of your ground wires ground right? anything loose? alternator?

nismos14
03-05-2008, 10:47 PM
Alpine needs to make the 9865 much more affordable. I think it's their only single din they have that's a step up from the 9835.


on a side note: there's a 9833 for $150 shipped in the classifieds and it's still available iirc. WHY it's still available is something I don't understand. IMO, it's better than the 9887, because I don't give a **** about the imprint capability

Oh and its the DVA-9965.. I wanted that... too much bread.

ngsm13
03-05-2008, 10:48 PM
Alpine needs to make the 9865 much more affordable. I think it's their only single din they have that's a step up from the 9835.


on a side note: there's a 9833 for $150 shipped in the classifieds and it's still available iirc. WHY it's still available is something I don't understand. IMO, it's better than the 9887, because I don't give a **** about the imprint capability

9965?

I don't like the glidetouch, but the glidetouch on that model is MUCH better than that of the 9853/55...

nG

James Bang
03-05-2008, 11:15 PM
yeah. 9965.

OP. I would suggest checking all of you connections. Or even reinstalling the harness. Unless you want to keep that noise. it's up to you if it's worth it or not.

amedeuce
03-05-2008, 11:42 PM
I recently sold my 9833 and purchase the 9887.
IMO both units are great units. There are things I miss about the 9833, but there are things that I like more on the 9887.
Again both are great head units. The 9833 is easier to navigate although I did have it for 3 years, that helps.

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 12:28 AM
you think it might your car that's causing the problem? all of your ground wires ground right? anything loose? alternator?

I dont think its my car, because I havn't had a problem with any head unit installed previous to this one.

Here is a picture of the 9887 harness. Its the exact same thing as te 9883 harness except the box on the yellow wire. I am going to swap this out tomorrow and see whats up.

I have no freaking idea what is causing this "Beep" when I hit my brake...

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/2-1.jpg

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 12:53 AM
This is what I am going to do tomorrow to try and fix the problem:

1. Use new RCa's
2. RUn the head unit ground directly to the neg on the battery,
3. connect the filter from the 9887 harness.

IF that **** still makes soundes, im going to go insane. Can you guys think of anything else?

ngsm13
03-06-2008, 01:02 AM
This is what I am going to do tomorrow to try and fix the problem:

1. Use new RCa's
2. RUn the head unit ground directly to the neg on the battery,
3. connect the filter from the 9887 harness.

IF that **** still makes soundes, im going to go insane. Can you guys think of anything else?

If you're running the ground, you minus whale run the power too... while you're at it...

;)

Make sure to fuse it obviously...

nG

nismos14
03-06-2008, 09:27 AM
Lawl at minus whale.

nismos14
03-06-2008, 09:27 AM
This is what I am going to do tomorrow to try and fix the problem:

1. Use new RCa's
2. RUn the head unit ground directly to the neg on the battery,
3. connect the filter from the 9887 harness.

IF that **** still makes soundes, im going to go insane. Can you guys think of anything else?

If it still happens get it swapped out for a new one.

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 11:01 AM
I guess I will have too. I just cant imagine having a brand new head unit that has issues right off the bat. It has to be the RCA's/Ground.

nismos14
03-06-2008, 11:27 AM
Usually if there is a defect it will be prevelant right away.

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 05:36 PM
I will be working to try and fix this problem from now until 9:30 tonight. I will be checking this thread and posting updates to see if what I do fixes this problem.

Using new RCAs directly to the amp(not runnin em yet)
running ground and power directly from the amp(fusing the power)
and adding the filter box to the harness.

kris

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 05:57 PM
Okay so I ran new rca's directly from the HU to the 4 channel amp. I also ran new power wire from the hu to the battery, and ran new ground from the HU to the ground on the battery, AND I added the yellow filter looking thing I showed you guys that the 9887 harness had that the 9883 did not.

Same ****ing thing, static at low volume and now the beep from the brake turned into static when I release, and also while holding the brake and messing around with the shifter in park creates static in the speakers as well...

wtf?!?!?!

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 05:59 PM
now I am going to run the speaker wire directly from the 4 channel to the head unit.

nismos14
03-06-2008, 06:22 PM
now I am going to run the speaker wire directly from the 4 channel to the head unit.

You're gonna do what??? Speaker wire from the head unit to the amp??? For what??

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 06:28 PM
I mean I am going to run speaker wire directly from the drivers to the amp, not the head unit. The only wires from the head unit are power ground and remote... and the orange illum.

that would make it so their is no speaker wire interference.

tsenfw
03-06-2008, 06:33 PM
You didn't have speaker wire run directly from the amp to the drivers originally? How did you have it setup originally?

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 06:36 PM
Okay so RIGHT NOW I have:

1. A ground directly from the neg on the battery to the Hu(Best possible ground)
2. Power directly from the Positive on the battery to the Head unit(Best possible power)
3. RCA's ran outside the car directly from the 4 channel amp to the head unit.
4. Installed the noise filter from the 9887 harness.
5. Ran the speaker wire from each driver to the amp

WTWFFWTWFTWFTWFTWFTWFTWW????= WHAT THE ****!!!!!!

I am still getting the same static in the tweeters that I did not get with the 9883,
I am still getting a static when I fiddle with my shifter in park which did not happen with the 9883.

Nismos, can I call you so you can walk me through this ****? You seem to be good with this head unit.

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 06:37 PM
You didn't have speaker wire run directly from the amp to the drivers originally? How did you have it setup originally?

well I did but I had it routed through underneath the dash then to the stock wiring for the mids, and the wiring I had done for the tweeters. I wanted to eliminate any possible interference.

tsenfw
03-06-2008, 06:41 PM
I had a similar hiss/ticking/static through my tweeters but it stopped when I turned the gain down a tad on my 2 channel amp. I've been too lazy to find the culprit because it's been loud enough at that setting.

James Bang
03-06-2008, 07:19 PM
try NEW RCAs

aeon
03-06-2008, 08:21 PM
try NEW RCAs

he said he ran new rca's.

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 08:43 PM
Okay so I think I found the problem out. I think it was the RCA's.... somehow some way.

I just ran new Much better JL RCA's and I did not run them anywhere near any wiring other than the JL 9 wire to which my tweeters and mids are connected to the amp.

Im about to fire it up and see what the deal is. I think I finally figured this shyt out. Took me a couple of hours wiring and unwiring **** but lets see... give me 20 min.

grampi
03-06-2008, 09:10 PM
I don't know about hooking up for active, but I do know the top preouts are the rears, and the middle pair is the fronts. It's in the manual.

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 09:16 PM
Okay guys so I am finally getting MINIMAL noise to my speakers. You wouldnt be able to tell unless you had the car off and doors shut with pure isolation to the speakers.

RCA's was the problem I believe. Their is still some static at low volume, but its nothing that is critical like before.

Now I have to finish connecting everything. I already have the front end done. Now the rear and all..

aeon
03-06-2008, 09:17 PM
I don't know about hooking up for active, but I do know the top preouts are the rears, and the middle pair is the fronts. It's in the manual.

yea, we figured it out.

aeon
03-06-2008, 09:18 PM
Okay guys so I am finally getting MINIMAL noise to my speakers. You wouldnt be able to tell unless you had the car off and doors shut with pure isolation to the speakers.

RCA's was the problem I believe. Their is still some static at low volume, but its nothing that is critical like before.

Now I have to finish connecting everything. I already have the front end done. Now the rear and all..

good to hear.

nismos14
03-06-2008, 10:05 PM
Nice.

krisfnbz
03-06-2008, 10:21 PM
Now I just need to set my gains for my tweets, mids and subs and find the right crossover points and were good to go.

hanks06
03-08-2008, 01:17 AM
hi i need your hlp if you can please. I also have the 362 Dyn's in my silverado but i need help s to what setting my crossover should be ,i have an alpine cda9887 HU. only 3 options for settings. low, med and hi. settings are
freq slope

highs 63 12
low 63 12
mid 80 24

not much punch on the low end ,,any suggestions are greatly appreciated

nismos14
03-08-2008, 02:55 AM
Can you give a bit more detail about your setup? Are you running 3 way active without sub?

krisfnbz
03-08-2008, 12:51 PM
Yeah.. are you running ative or passive?....

jobber
03-08-2008, 07:48 PM
I registered just to say how good this thread was. I am going active on my 9887 this week, and all the testing and knowledge was helpful.

hanks06
03-14-2008, 03:54 AM
y NO SUB YET JUST THE THREE WAY IN FRONT AND 5"
INTHE REAR

nismos14
03-14-2008, 09:14 AM
hi i need your hlp if you can please. I also have the 362 Dyn's in my silverado but i need help s to what setting my crossover should be ,i have an alpine cda9887 HU. only 3 options for settings. low, med and hi. settings are
freq slope

highs 63 12
low 63 12
mid 80 24

not much punch on the low end ,,any suggestions are greatly appreciated

In that case I would bump up the low to 80 at 12 and adjust the sub level on the HU up to where they hit hard.

krisfnbz
03-14-2008, 12:13 PM
I almost blew my speakers running active yesterday.

fearturtle03
03-17-2008, 10:21 AM
Thinking of doing the same thing KRISFNBZ is doing and switching my 9813 out.

1.) Does the 9861 run active? or would i need the H-701 for that
2.) What is the big advantage of active? Is it really that great?
3.) My system is as follows right now....
Front Stage: CDT 6.5 comps (think CLA-61's)
Front Amp: Eclipse 36401 (60wx4 @ 2ohm; 40wX4 @4ohm)
Currently bridged to 2 channels.
Sub: 2 JL Audio 10''...soon either a single 10'' JL W3 or 6 or 10'' ID
Sub Amp: Kenwood

Thanks for any help...

nismos14
03-17-2008, 10:52 AM
Thinking of doing the same thing KRISFNBZ is doing and switching my 9813 out.

1.) Does the 9861 run active? or would i need the H-701 for that
2.) What is the big advantage of active? Is it really that great?
3.) My system is as follows right now....
Front Stage: CDT 6.5 comps (think CLA-61's)
Front Amp: Eclipse 36401 (60wx4 @ 2ohm; 40wX4 @4ohm)
Currently bridged to 2 channels.
Sub: 2 JL Audio 10''...soon either a single 10'' JL W3 or 6 or 10'' ID
Sub Amp: Kenwood

Thanks for any help...

1) No, you do need thte h701.
2) More control over your system, easier to tailor to your sound, typically.
3) Cool.

fearturtle03
03-17-2008, 11:12 AM
Any advice on whether or not going active would be something worth doing, or would I need to go with a more powerful system to justify the active....

Could someone point me to a thread about Active?

nismos14
03-17-2008, 11:17 AM
Going active doesn't require more power, you could technically run less and be fine when going active. The speakers become a little more sensitive as there is no "go between" to rob power, IE the passive crossover.

fearturtle03
03-17-2008, 02:28 PM
ah, i got ya. Did a bit or reading and understand it a bit better. My eclipse amp has both HP/LP which i assume will not be used, but what about the bass boost option on the amp? Each set of channels has a bass boost knob, will they be set to 0 as well?

nismos14
03-17-2008, 02:50 PM
It is good practice to never use the bass boost :)

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 11:09 AM
Yeah you never want to use bass boost... It sounds like *** anyways.

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 11:10 AM
Okay so for the past 2 days I have completely dynamated my trunk, and my front 2 doors. As of right now I have at least 80 sqft of dynamat all over my car. I would say about 20 on each door, and 40 in the trunk(roughly)...

As far as the whole "blowing my speaker" thing... I realized that it was cracking in and out which couldnt be the speaker if it was blown. Turns out on my brand new set of RCA;s the conductor was not tight enough onto the connection on the back of the head unit. I used a pair of crimpers to make a solid connection and it all went away.

I still need to set my gains..but I like the way it sounds with the doors being completely sound proofed... Ill have pics later on. I probably spent total at least 3-5 hours per door making sure that **** was done right.

tsenfw
03-18-2008, 11:12 AM
Now do another layer lol.

How's the active setup now? Did you get rid of all the noise?

nismos14
03-18-2008, 11:13 AM
Nice, and results? :)

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 11:30 AM
Now do another layer lol.

How's the active setup now? Did you get rid of all the noise?

Well I looked at it this way. Because I saw a link to one of the second skin audios rep's truck and how he deadened his doors....I pretty much copied that but with dynamat because I get beast prices on it. Too bad they were backordered on the liquid stuff..

I made sure that everything on the inner panel I would never touch again because of the fact that I would be putting dynaliner in between each hole, and putting 2 layers of dynamat over it(SOLID *** connection) so everything on the inside is done...and I also put 2 dynaxorbs behind the speaker on each door as well...

now as far as the outer-panel I still had alot of dynamat to it... but later on down the line I may just add another 10 sqft to each door, but as far as anything else these doors are pretty **** heavy for civic doors.

As far as the whole active setup... I think im going to keep it this way. I have messed around with the head unit, but I spent more time this past weekend sound proofing...I think going active is nice but unless you really have nice speakers its hard to tell the advantage.(Its like yeah I deadened my doors fully but look at what speakers im running...SLX's nothing too great with mid-bas) Its all about what I upgrade to in the future.

The noise is still there...and I have completed the big 3 under the hood completely... all with 1/0 and fused everything in the entire car as well. I cant figure out what the noise is coming from, but its got alot better and its barely even noticable now. I can only tell when the car is in idle, and the music is all the way down...so im satisfied.


Nice, and results? :)

Above..

BTW I will have pics of what I have done as soon as I get a chance to upload to the computer. I must have added 30-40 lbs per door... its crazy

tsenfw
03-18-2008, 12:32 PM
The noise is still there...and I have completed the big 3 under the hood completely... all with 1/0 and fused everything in the entire car as well. I cant figure out what the noise is coming from, but its got alot better and its barely even noticable now. I can only tell when the car is in idle, and the music is all the way down...so im satisfied.


Like I said before, I was getting similar noises when turning the gain up higher on my us amps 2 channel. I swapped out the us amps 2 channel component amp for a JL 300/4 and I no longer have the noise even with the gain pretty high. Try turning the gain down a little just too see, might be your amp.

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 01:25 PM
Like I said before, I was getting similar noises when turning the gain up higher on my us amps 2 channel. I swapped out the us amps 2 channel component amp for a JL 300/4 and I no longer have the noise even with the gain pretty high. Try turning the gain down a little just too see, might be your amp.

Yeah it could be my amp.. but the noise is pretty minimal.

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 01:27 PM
I just though of a question. if I had a 3 way component setup, how would I set everything up with the head unit? The 9887 only has 3 RCA's....front rear and sub?..

nismos14
03-18-2008, 01:28 PM
You would either have to loose the subwoofer, or use a passive, preferrably between the midrange and tweeter.

This HU is not 3-way active capable, only 2 way + sub. Only one that is is the DRZ 9255. And possibly the Ural CDD, but if I'm not mistaken that HU is only 2 way active + sub as well.

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 01:44 PM
You would either have to loose the subwoofer, or use a passive, preferrably between the midrange and tweeter.

This HU is not 3-way active capable, only 2 way + sub. Only one that is is the DRZ 9255. And possibly the Ural CDD, but if I'm not mistaken that HU is only 2 way active + sub as well.


Okay I see.... now that I realize it going active in the front is really mainly only for front stage, because I cant even power my rear speakers through HU power now that my HU is in 'active" mode. Does this make sense?....I would have to amp the rears?

nismos14
03-18-2008, 01:51 PM
Okay I see.... now that I realize it going active in the front is really mainly only for front stage, because I cant even power my rear speakers through HU power now that my HU is in 'active" mode. Does this make sense?....I would have to amp the rears?

No, you can turn power IC on, and power the rears off the rear speaker outputs of the HU.

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 01:54 PM
No, you can turn power IC on, and power the rears off the rear speaker outputs of the HU.

Okay so thats why my rears were not turning on. Which menu is Power IC in?....What does it stand for?... Power Internal..?....somethin.

nismos14
03-18-2008, 01:59 PM
Something like that, go into setup and audio then power ic

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 02:32 PM
Something like that, go into setup and audio then power ic

cool man.. thanks!

nismos14
03-18-2008, 02:48 PM
No problem.

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 02:51 PM
Im acctually about to sell my MRP-F550 for $175. What amp can you think of to replace this in my setup? I was thinkin about the ZX650.4?....I know their will be alot of headroom for the tweeters... but I figure if someone is going to take this amp off my hands for $175, I can get a much better amp to power these rainbows!

mannyahles
03-18-2008, 09:12 PM
I constantly change my settings I have mids that play down to 40 hz effectively so I've got these set as my 6 xover points:

1:
50hz low lp
50hz mid hp
1600hz mid lp
2000hz tweet hp

2:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
1600hz mid lp
2000hz tweet hp

3:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
2000hz mid lp
2500hz tweet hp

4:
125hz low lp
80hz mid hp
2500hz mid lp
2500hz tweet hp(-3)

5:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
2500hz mid lp
3200hz tweet hp (-3)

6:
80hz low lp
80hz mid hp
3200hz mid lp
3200hz tweet hp



Do you change these depending on the genre of music you are listening too or perhaps the quality of the recording?

nismos14
03-18-2008, 09:13 PM
Probably more typical of my speakers and how they play vs the recordings or genre. Also I have recently changed ALL of those because of new speakers, and having found the peak that I had.

tcguy85
03-18-2008, 09:44 PM
No, you can turn power IC on, and power the rears off the rear speaker outputs of the HU.

if the rear rca's are now for the tweeters, then if you turn the internal amp back on the rears will now get the same frequencies as the tweeters.

the internal amp and the rcas will work together, meaning the internal amp will also bandpass the mids and high pass the tweeters.

at least thats how pioneer does it. pretty sure its the same on the alpines.

nismos14
03-18-2008, 10:07 PM
I don't know if it is, but you are right that if it does that rear is not the one he should use, Krisfnbs you should use the front speaker outputs to gaurantee at least a midbass signal.

tcguy85
03-18-2008, 10:16 PM
I don't know if it is, but you are right that if it does that rear is not the one he should use, Krisfnbs you should use the front speaker outputs to gaurantee at least a midbass signal.

also, if you run the front active then run say 80-3k through the rears they will be set to the same T/A number as the front mids.

i just don't think it's worth it to run rears at all. seems like a mess trying to run an active front stage AND rear fill. if you have enough of a front stage you'll be fine with just fronts and a sub(s).

nismos14
03-18-2008, 10:18 PM
I agree, but its for rear peeps, who cares, LOL. I'm gonna run a set, rainbow 3.5".

krisfnbz
03-18-2008, 11:16 PM
Yeah I wont be running rears with this head unit. If I do end up running rears I will just end up using the pre-out on my main amp and get a signal, and use that amps crossover to set the rears. I probably wont be doing this anytime soon.

If I was to just go ahead and use the passive crossovers for my rainbows...pretty much that would just mean that I no longer have control of the crossover points from the front of the car, but only from the back of the car. Which would free up 2 channels..

But I think I will keep it active.

nismos14
03-18-2008, 11:34 PM
No, you can use hpf from the HU, and lp from the HU for the sub.

aeon
03-19-2008, 04:26 PM
i've been messing with my rear speaker for the past week or so. i have them hooked up to the front output wires from the hu. they seem to pull the stage to far back and the music just doesn't sound right with them on. i've tried turning the gain up for the front speakers and that helped pull the stage up front more, but i still don't like it. i even tried putting a couple layers of ensolite in the inside of the door speaker grill so i can get less output from the rear speakers, but it still sounds a little off.

i do like the fullness and more mid-bass that the rear speakers give though. the sub blends in perfectly, like there isn't even a sub back there.

after about a week, i'm back to just running my front stage only. i like the clarity and imaging better.

mannyahles
03-19-2008, 04:50 PM
I have a front set of comps and a rear set of comps. I am using the passive crossovers that came with them but the truth is.... the sound sux! :crying:

I am using the JBL HU (stock) so I am interested in buying the 9887. But how do i go active with two sets of comps and 2 12 inch subs. 2 way or 3 way... any help would be appreciated. :confused:

My equipment is in my sig! :thankyou:

nismos14
03-19-2008, 05:00 PM
First of all no point going active if you have a system setup so poorly ;)

Go with ONE set of comps up front, and use only hte midbass in the back, run the rear midbass off the front speaker output from the 9887.

THEN, run the fronts active of your 4 channel.

Good to go.

mannyahles
03-19-2008, 05:05 PM
First of all no point going active if you have a system setup so poorly ;)

Go with ONE set of comps up front, and use only hte midbass in the back, run the rear midbass off the front speaker output from the 9887.

THEN, run the fronts active of your 4 channel.

Good to go.

OUCH, That left a mark! :crying:

So I would actively run my front set of comps of the 9887 HU and the rear comps would be powered by the 9887 HU. Then I could use 2 channels for the front tweets and 2 channels for the mids.... did I get your info correct? :crazy:

nismos14
03-19-2008, 05:07 PM
Very good sir :)

mannyahles
03-19-2008, 05:09 PM
I understand that the rear comps are just a fill and that getting as much midbass out of them is a good thing. I guess I bought way too big of a 4 channel amp for one set of comps! lol

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 07:40 PM
Yeah going active is really only for one big powerful frontstage...I have come to realize that.

P.S I have finally set the gains on all of my equipment, and I have had time to mess around with it. I set the mids with a 1khz test tone, the tweets with a 4khz test tone, and the subs with a 40hz test tone.

I gave the Mids 90w on the Dmm(I think it was like 19v) @ 4 ohms
I gave the tweets 20w on the DMM(I think it was like 9v) @ 4 ohms(I found my tweeters are 4 ohm from rainbow)
I gave the subs 600w on the DMM(35v) @ 2ohms.

I had the volume at 25/35 while doing this.

I have come to realize that 20/25 is loud as fuvk, and 25/35 is pretty much unbearable to listen to for most songs.

My question is: If I have set my gains this way above, am I getting 90w at 20/25 volume on my HU?....I was always under the assumption that if I set 90w(19v) on the DMM at 25(3/4ths the head unit volume) that I would be getting 90w at 25.

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 07:41 PM
the level on the radio at which your gains are set is the level at which you will recieve the power you set your gains for

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 07:44 PM
I fully have deadened my front doors/truck It took me forever to do.

I have dynaliner in between each hole in my front door. I would say about 20sqft of dynamat extreme on each door... maybe more. Freakin doors are SOLID.

Probably 40sqft in my trunk.

Here are some pics of my doors:

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/56001.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/56010.jpg



Also here is a pic of my Big 3 completed:

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/56011.jpg

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 07:45 PM
the level on the radio at which your gains are set is the level at which you will recieve the power you set your gains for

Thats what I thought, in which case...when these speakers get 90w, they dont like it because its really fuvking loud and sounds distorted. maybe like 22 is okay for some songs like rap...it just all depends.

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 07:47 PM
music and test tones are two very different animals

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 07:48 PM
btw what store number do you work at?

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 07:54 PM
music and test tones are two very different animals

Yeah I guess so.... so when people say **** like "Im giving mine 300 a door'... seriously 300 is alot of ****ing power. They must be joking.

I see all the time people saying the SLC Rainbow line takes 150-200 daily... WTF?



btw what store number do you work at?

Why do you work at tweeter as well?

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 07:55 PM
sure do

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 07:56 PM
sure do

Store 228... rockville... what store do you work at?... and what position are you?... WHats ur name

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 07:57 PM
im an installer at 327 in charlotte

name is dre

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 08:02 PM
im an installer at 327 in charlotte

name is dre

Cool... we have been installerless for almost 2 months, but we still hit scorecard every month. Too many BS remote start installs, and XM radio.

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 08:31 PM
if you guys get good enough business i would consider moving back up to md

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 08:38 PM
if you guys get good enough business i would consider moving back up to md

Dude... we get more business than we can handle. Our store is Profitable in every single way. We hit scorecard for lik 10% every month for the last 3-4 months...everybody who works there knows their ****. We have been in the top 3 in the reigon consistantly. Rockville has some rich mofos. We get so much mobile business that we have to dish out to store 0218, 0243, and 0241. The only thing we really need is a great installer. Both of our installers left beforoe christmas... acctually its been like almost 3-4 months since we have had an installer. If you worked for our store, im pretty sure you would make more money. I dont work in the mobile side...and im probably the worst guy in the home side, but Im very happy where I stand.

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 08:44 PM
hmmmmm

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 08:48 PM
hmmmmm

Im tellin you man. We just got a new manager about 4 months ago. Our old Manager ****** ***....ever since we have had our new store manager, everything has improved. Hes young, laid back and just really cool and down to earth. He does a really good job with our store. Our store has potential like crazy... and month to month we always get where we need to be. I dont know much about your store and location, but in rockville... too many rich people just dont care about money.... they throw it around like its nothing.

aeon
03-19-2008, 09:21 PM
Also here is a pic of my Big 3 completed:

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u14/krisfnbs/56011.jpg


is there a ground wire from your engine block to your chassis? i know on my old acura, there was one from the engine block to the chassis.

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 09:42 PM
Im tellin you man. We just got a new manager about 4 months ago. Our old Manager ****** ***....ever since we have had our new store manager, everything has improved. Hes young, laid back and just really cool and down to earth. He does a really good job with our store. Our store has potential like crazy... and month to month we always get where we need to be. I dont know much about your store and location, but in rockville... too many rich people just dont care about money.... they throw it around like its nothing.

location is in a high traffic area we do very good business...only problem is that i am the mobile dept as my sales guy is in germany and the other installer never comes to work

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 11:06 PM
is there a ground wire from your engine block to your chassis? i know on my old acura, there was one from the engine block to the chassis.

Yeah their is a 1/0 wire from the engine block to the chassis on the left side under the stock air intake. you cant see it in tha picture, but its an excellent spot for a engine ground.


location is in a high traffic area we do very good business...only problem is that i am the mobile dept as my sales guy is in germany and the other installer never comes to work

Well as far as mobile sales go... The guy we have now in mobile has been with the company for about 4 years...and we have one home guy that knows mobile pretty well, and our store manager knows mobile pretty well. Pretty much everyone in our store has their own area which they know best, but if their is a question.. it usually gets answered by someone.

If we had an installer...our store would really improve. It would be literally possible to hit at least 12.5% every month...we always miss mobile and still get 10

Worlddre
03-19-2008, 11:16 PM
im solely responsible for us making mobile last month and if we make it this month it will be my fault again so i need to try and convince them to let me move

krisfnbz
03-19-2008, 11:34 PM
im solely responsible for us making mobile last month and if we make it this month it will be my fault again so i need to try and convince them to let me move

They wont let you transfer??