View Full Version : 04 mustang enclosure help

02-26-2008, 11:55 PM
I have a pair of 12" l7's and because of how tiny the trunk opening is the largest boxes I could fit are about 1.2 cubes and they sound like crap, any help for building a permanant enclosure into the trunk, also the mach amp rack will be removed.

02-26-2008, 11:57 PM
u may want to go with 1 12" ported

02-27-2008, 12:15 AM
Makes sense but within the next month or so I will be getting a sundown 3000d amp free from a freind when he upgrades and it will burn up a single.

02-27-2008, 01:42 AM
Makes sense but within the next month or so I will be getting a sundown 3000d amp free from a freind when he upgrades and it will burn up a single.
You could sale the amp, buy a new one to power one 12", and have enough extra cash to get a box built.

02-27-2008, 01:49 AM
Could you suggest an amplifier, the subs are the dual 2 ohm, I already have a zx1500 amp but I dont like it very much.

02-27-2008, 01:52 AM
Also i have seen a used hdc3 12" for sale around $120, would i have better luck with this sub and keeping the sundown amp selling the kicker equipment?

02-27-2008, 01:55 AM
Also i have seen a used hdc3 12" for sale around $120, would i have better luck with this sub and keeping the sundown amp selling the kicker equipment?
I have heard nothing but good things about AudioQue since I have been here. The HDC3 seems to be a very respectable sub. Where did you see it for $120?

02-27-2008, 02:01 AM
You don't HAVE to use an amp to it's full rated capabilities :fyi:

02-27-2008, 02:10 AM
Im not sure wether or not you have it in GA but I saw it in the pennysaver, a weekly magazine simmilar to a newspapers classifieds but mostly stuff for sale.

02-27-2008, 07:38 PM
did u take out the mach amp rack.also i heard of guys gettin a 14.5 ht box in threw the backseat.

02-27-2008, 10:21 PM
Yea, the amp rack is gone and to get a box like that through the back seat the seats must removed for clearance.

Rich B
02-27-2008, 10:26 PM
How about an Isobarik enclosure?

Isobaric Enclosures

* Isobarik loading has become pretty popular for car audio use in the last few years. Again this is not a new concept, having been originally introduced by Harry Olson in the early 1950's. Technically, "isobarik" is not really an enclosure type; it is a loading method. This loading method involves the coupling of two woofers to work together as one unit. This is typically accomplished either by placing two woofers face to face or by coupling two woofers with a small chamber. The result of coupling the two speakers is that the coupled pair (iso-group) can now produce the same frequency response in half the box volume as a single speaker of the same type would require. For example, if a speaker is optimized for performance in a 1 cu.ft. sealed enclosure, one iso-group of the same speakers can achieve the same low frequency extension and overall response characteristics in a 0.5 cu.ft. sealed enclosure.

* There is, of course, a penalty involved. Whenever you use isobarik loading, you are sacrificing 3dB of efficiency compared to a single driver in twice the air space. In practical terms, this is not usually a big deal since the powerhandling is doubled (two speakers instead of one) and the impedance is typically cut in half if we parallel the two speakers (twice the power, assuming the amplifier can deliver the necessary current.) The end result is about the same output as the single driver in the bigger box but at twice the amplifier power (and twice the speaker cost.)

* Isobarik loading can be used within any enclosure type, including bandpass designs. The ported and bandpass isobarik designs can be difficult to design and build due to very small enclosures with large port requirements. Isobarik bandpass designs, in particular, can be literally impossible to build with certain speakers. There are some things to look out for with each type of isobarik design, such as mechanical noise and uneven heat dissipation which can present potential sound quality and reliability problems. All the methods which involve opposite cone motion require that the speakers be wired in reverse polarity relative to each other. These designs also provide a performance advantage in that their opposed cone motion averages out suspension non-linearities (differences in inward and outward suspension control,) which reduces distortion.
* If you are strapped for space and can afford the extra speakers and more complex enclosure, the ability to have a compact subwoofer system with no real sacrifice in performance is well worth the extra effort and expense. On the other hand, if you have a lot of space and are looking to get the maximum amount of output without sacrificing sound quality, using multiple iso-groups can give you the best cone area/box volume ratio while still retaining good fidelity.



02-27-2008, 10:39 PM
thanks rich, never would have thought about that, how would I go about designing a box like this?

Rich B
02-27-2008, 10:47 PM
The easiest way is to copy that design in my post (face to face, with thick enough wood between the two subs that they dont touch).

If you already know the ideal box size for a single sub, make the box half that size and you have the appropriate size for the two subs.

Isobarik designs have better control over the subs, but you sacrifice about 3 db's of output.

Plays just as low as a single sub in a box twice as big.

Theres a few websites that describe Isobarik designs, I believe a couple even have an online box design program too.

Edit: The subs have to be wired out of phase so they move in the same direction with a face to face (or "clamshell") Isobarik.

02-28-2008, 07:22 AM
removin back seats r easy.