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View Full Version : Several questions about running active for my situation



maldecido33
01-30-2008, 01:00 AM
I've got a set of 7" Dayton RS180's lying around I'm wanting to incorporate into an active setup in my truck. I've owned a Clarion DXZ945MP since it first came out, but being a noob when I bought it I never even though about whether or not it could be run active.

From what I'm reading, it looks like I may be able to run active with this headunit, but maybe I'm just not understanding the manual... Refer to pages 21 and 22 here:

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/MungoBlobs/758/69/DXZ945MP(Manual).pdf

If I can't, are there any external processors I can use in conjunction with this headunit?

Furthermore, does anything have any good suggestions for a tweeter to mate with the rs180?
edit: I'm looking at a Tang Band Neo Tweet or the Vifa XT25

Thanks alot

MiniVanMan
01-30-2008, 03:09 AM
The Tang Band tweeter is a better option. Another really good option, and the one I would go with myself is the Seas Neo Aluminum.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=149&products_id=633

As for external processors the Memphis X03 is a popular choice. It's a nice unit, reasonably priced.

maldecido33
01-30-2008, 03:17 AM
What about the Coustic XM6?

Eugenics
01-30-2008, 03:27 AM
xt25 seems like a fantastic deal. as long as it will reach down as far as needed, why not?

and it looks like that unit only features a eq, not a xover, which you will need if your amps do not provide sufficient options. although i could be very wrong. i have no experience with the deck.

maldecido33
01-30-2008, 03:44 AM
You are correct, Eugenics.

Why would I need the 3-way memphis x-over instead of the 2-way?

I think I've decided upon:

Memphis 16-X02 Processor ($100)
Dayton RS-180 7" Woofer ($39 ea)
Vifa XT25
Sound Deadening ($100ish)

What are the difference between these two:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1679
and
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1181

Eugenics
01-30-2008, 03:49 AM
Well, the 3 way gives you more latitude in the future, or will provide you more options right now... should your current amps xover LPF/HPF not at the moment. If it were me though, i would sell my HU and use that extra 100 to get a 9887 or 880 PRS.

maldecido33
01-30-2008, 03:58 AM
I may just do that. I like the 880PRS.

I'll more than likely be using a ZX650.4 to power my front stage.

Eugenics
01-30-2008, 04:15 AM
That should be perfect. I know the daytons need eqing so dont give up when you get them.

MiniVanMan
01-30-2008, 10:31 AM
The XT25 is not a good choice. It will not extend down far enough to meet up with the RS180. The RS180 has a brutal breakup node that requires crossing the driver over no higher than 2000 hz. The XT25 might work depending on your situation, but the Seas Neo will work.

The XT25 is also a fairly difficult driver to work with as it has to installed as on-axis as possible. Not always an option in many car installs.

Both the RS180 and the XT25 are fairly difficult drivers to work with in a car. I'd uncomplicate things and go with the Seas Neo I linked to.

maldecido33
01-30-2008, 11:19 AM
Will the Seas go down low enough? It's got an Fs of 1170hz

Eugenics
01-30-2008, 01:48 PM
The XT25 is not a good choice. It will not extend down far enough to meet up with the RS180. The RS180 has a brutal breakup node that requires crossing the driver over no higher than 2000 hz. The XT25 might work depending on your situation, but the Seas Neo will work.

The XT25 is also a fairly difficult driver to work with as it has to installed as on-axis as possible. Not always an option in many car installs.

Both the RS180 and the XT25 are fairly difficult drivers to work with in a car. I'd uncomplicate things and go with the Seas Neo I linked to.

Glad someone who knows his stuff shoed up :)

MiniVanMan
01-31-2008, 05:03 PM
Will the Seas go down low enough? It's got an Fs of 1170hz

Yeah, it's generally accepted that the Seas Neo can handle 2k. However, you won't need to go down that far, and 2.5k should be more than sufficient. Since you generally underlap crossover points, you'll be somewhere in the range of 1.8-2.0k on the mid and 2.2-2.5k on the tweeter. Depending on the installation that is. There could be quite a variance to that. For example (and these are completely different drivers), I have my wife's vehicle set up at 3.2k on the mid and 4k on the tweeter. Underlapping is common, but in the case of the RS180, you really want to have more capability than less when trying to match a tweeter because as we all know, a car can wreak havoc on a speaker.

Here's a tutorial I wrote on another forum where I used the RS180 as an example. It has all sorts of pretty graphs and such, and is very disorganized and probably confusing, but overall if you can make it through that, will give you a good idea of how the RS180 behaves.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17429