PDA

View Full Version : how long for clamps?



hl26
01-25-2008, 12:37 AM
So i started a box and uually break it up into three sections over three days and let it sit with clamps on it over night, but im on a bit of a time table here and need to finish it asap.... how long does somthing need to be clamped for? i use 1 5/8 inch primedgaurd deck screws also....

dvrmstrng
01-25-2008, 12:39 AM
if you use screws why bother clamping it...the screws should hold it tight.

hl26
01-25-2008, 12:50 AM
do you think i tmakes any difference to clamp and screw or no?

ultimate157
01-25-2008, 12:54 AM
screwing takes place of clamping.

BuckyBoy
01-25-2008, 01:03 AM
screwing takes place of clamping.

:word:

hl26
01-25-2008, 01:17 AM
mmk so total overkill? and by the way i started the box buckyboy, should have it finished by tommorow night...

IgnoreMe
01-25-2008, 01:23 AM
1) apply glue

2) put panels together

3) clamp pieces

4) predrill with 1/8" bit

5) put screws in, while clamped to give a super tight joint

6) remove clamps

7) move on to the next panels


the clamps hold while you screw, then the screws act as mini clamps as you move on. the glue is the strongest part of the joint, the screws just hold while the glue dries and weaves its wood "web" between the two piece of wood.

you can get the box done in 1 hour.

hl26
01-25-2008, 01:27 AM
what if i didnt predrill? i didnt hurt anything did i?

IgnoreMe
01-25-2008, 01:39 AM
what if i didnt predrill? i didnt hurt anything did i?

very well might of. usually you will split the wood. split wood isnt any good, when 1/3 of the 3/4" panel is actually glued to joint, and the other 2/3's of the panel is doing nothing but sitting there because its not even connected to the joint, you got a flimsy joint, that wont hold up to much abuse.

hl26
01-25-2008, 01:41 AM
mmk of ive only dont one joint, (the botton to back piece), if i predrill the rest should i be ok?

BuckyBoy
01-25-2008, 01:42 AM
You are supposed to predrill so the wood doesn't crack. If you didn't predrill, and it didn't crack, then consider yourself lucky. I'm guessing you just made sure to stay away from the edges, which is why you didn't say anything about cracks. It's not a big deal if it does crack. As long as it isn't bad and you seal the box up really well.

Get me some pics when you get it done. Good luck with it.

Edit: Dang. I am slow.
But, yea just predrill the rest of the holes. Find a bit that is just barely smaller than your screws.

IgnoreMe
01-25-2008, 01:44 AM
mmk of ive only dont one joint, (the botton to back piece), if i predrill the rest should i be ok?

as bucky said, if you dont notice any cracks or bulges, you should be ok.

you always want to predrill to minimize the risk of splitting the wood. i have always had luck with 1/8" bit, and 1 5/8" grip right screws. i also like the deckmates with the little blue bit that comes with them. work just great.

hl26
01-25-2008, 01:46 AM
alright guys i really appreciate the input! ill get you those pics when im done bucky boy!

hl26
01-25-2008, 01:47 AM
also what should i use to seal the box? liquid nails or some kind of silicone or what?

ultimate157
01-25-2008, 02:06 AM
also what should i use to seal the box? liquid nails or some kind of silicone or what?

DAP Latex caulking FTW.

IgnoreMe
01-25-2008, 03:55 AM
DAP Latex caulking FTW.

i disagree. i used it for the first time a while back...i hated it.

GE 100% silicone II sealent FTMFW (you can get the kitchen or the door and window, just make sure it is the II instead of I, because the II has a better adhesion to wood). way better than the DAP latex caulking. the GE silicone II doenst crack no matter how thin you put it on, the dap cracks as it dries if its too thin. i had to put 2 layers on some seams because of it. the GE silicone, also cleans up off the hands a lot easier.

just my .02c

IDSkoT
01-25-2008, 11:38 PM
i disagree. i used it for the first time a while back...i hated it.

GE 100% silicone II sealent FTMFW (you can get the kitchen or the door and window, just make sure it is the II instead of I, because the II has a better adhesion to wood). way better than the DAP latex caulking. the GE silicone II doenst crack no matter how thin you put it on, the dap cracks as it dries if its too thin. i had to put 2 layers on some seams because of it. the GE silicone, also cleans up off the hands a lot easier.

just my .02c

x2

I'm pretty sure I used the same stuff, and it cmae right off my fingers and is sturdy. But, I might've used another silicone. I'm not sure.
But, I suggest silicone over anything else.

ultimate157
01-26-2008, 01:27 AM
I've never had a problem with the DAP cracking, as it seems to stay pretty much a rubber consistency.