PDA

View Full Version : SPL heavy-hitters and recognized box designers, come hither please



pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 05:50 PM
i need some information, tips, instructions, etc. due to cancellation issues, i am rebuilding a box for my MTs, as well as getting a much larger amplification unit. i have a few question:

along with double baffling, with kind of other supports work best. i have heard tie rod threading is a good choice. i had triple baffle on my last box, but i think it was a little unnecessary and added alot of weight.

I also have a 1990 dodge grand caravan. what is the best way to fire into these. sub up port back? sub back port back? sub up, port up? sub and port towards front of vehicle? sub back, port firing towards front? who has had some good numbers in any of these positions.

also, how much does fiberglass resign help, and if im going to do it, should i do whole box or jus corners?

45 degree corners, help at all or not?

wud a port per woofer, in almost separate chambers be better than one big box with one port, for less cancellation, it it becomes a problem?

I am looking to tune at 30 hertz.

Also, I am running MTs, who has had the best numbers at lower 30's freqs, and it what amount of cubic feet boxes were these MTs in. ive seen so many different sizes, looking to do research for volume now.

Also, slot port to Aero ports, differences in both, and which one is better for higher numbers?

also, rounded port corners everyone always suggests. I have been doing this on my last 7 boxes, but never really understood why except for better air flow, any other reasons?

which is the best tightening solution when it comes to wood glue, i use liquid nails but am looking for something different, that may hold better.

also, i see SPL competitors dont use rubber gaskets around their subs, and some even go to the length of duct tape, im guessing to hold in air, anymore explanations. why dont some people use rubber gaskets?

Next, which way is the best way to lay out subs in a box, although this may go hand in hand in positioning of subs.

i was told by a knowledgeable competitor, to do a box, with a port across the bottom of the whole box, so no cancellation occurs as long as subs are side by side. im thinking bout this heavily, any other way to do it? is there any other way to manipulate air movement.

these are just a couple of things I would like to discuss with some people, get a little bit of help on some things, please do not call me a noob or make fun of me or thread dump if you do not like all my questions, then u dont have to answer them. please save all smart *** responses to yourself also. would just like this to be an informative discussion to help me and other people when theyre building boxes.

Thanks and I appreciate all the help I can get if any. I know its a lot of questions.

anymore questions i can think of I will post. thanks again

Chevyaudio
12-25-2007, 06:05 PM
Ok so I'm kind of confused as to what you are after. Do you want to get loud...as in you are planing to compete in a sanctioned organization? Or do you just want to be loud as in daily impress people in your area loud?

As for some of your questions.

Bracing-I have found threaded rod works the best for High Power applications. It is easy to use and is plety strong. The only down side is its appearance but if you are in it to compete this shouldn't be a concern of yours.

FG Resin-This depends on many things. It definatly will not make an audible difference unless the consruction of your box is VERY poor and the FG is actually acting as a sealant. Termlab would be the only way to determine whether or not it makes a difference. I personally wouldn't resin your first box. And if you want to build a second and see if it makes a difference. FG Resin may also hurt your score.

45s in the corners-Just like FG resin. Can help, it also can hurt.

Box Design-I have always had luck with common chamber boxes...anytime you start spliting up woofers and adding mulitple ports on different planes of the box or different ends of a plane things usually dont work right. Basically the way Ive always constructed boxes was to try and channel the pressure inside the box efficiently towards the port. In doing this you want to try and minimalize areas in the box where pressure can be trapped and cause awkward loading on the rear side of the cone of the woofer. This can cause dustcaps to fly off cones to shatter and other things that aren't so pleasent.

As for ductape and gaskets- The ductape is to try and get a better seal between the driver and the baffle. And some use it because they are supersticious. But it has proven to help. I gained about a tenth when I was running a single 12" but the dual 10" setup didn't gain from duct tape.

As for your vehicle...im not sure haven't used one so I will leave this for someone better versed in a Dodge Caravan.


i was told by a knowledgeable competitor, to do a box, with a port across the bottom of the whole box, so no cancellation occurs as long as subs are side by side. im thinking bout this heavily, any other way to do it? is there any other way to manipulate air movement

Not sure who told you this...but this isn't always the best way to go...that kind of sounds like a generalized statement. Personally (im not sure which size drivers you are using) but I would try sub up/port back with 6" aeros first...because they are in fact the easiest way to start with spl box design, because you can cut and add port until you find the loudest combination.

stuckinok
12-25-2007, 06:13 PM
The only questions I have since chevy pretty much sumed it up is if your going for SPL why are you tunning so low? also nobody in this forum on in this world can answer your questions. Most of the things you are asking can only be answered through your own testing and tunning its just going to take alot of building and time on your part but just to add my two cents i think port bracing is important in many cases along with double baffles

Chevyaudio
12-25-2007, 06:14 PM
The only questions I have since chevy pretty much sumed it up is if your going for SPL why are you tunning so low? also nobody in this forum on in this world can answer your questions. Most of the things you are asking can only be answered through your own testing and tunning its just going to take alot of building and time on your part but just to add my two cents i think port bracing is important in many cases along with double baffles

Hence the first question I asked :)

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 06:23 PM
im going for high decibels at a low frequency, why 30 is the chosen frequency. im going to be competing in a sanctioned organization but i do not know which class yet. and the comptetitor who told me was justin thornton (Teamsubgopoof). he didnt say its the best, but just a good way to do it, and i dont like splitting up the chambers and doing all that too. so 45s, and Fiberglass are most likely out of the picture then, if they do not do a whole lot. and thread rodding does seem to be the best, according to a lot of people. im going for high numbers at lower frequencies. i usually dont like alot of notes above the 45-50 hz range for tuning.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 06:27 PM
so people also do not use gaskets, as it is a better seal not to use them? i have 2 18" MTs right now, but am looking at two more

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 06:27 PM
this is also a daily vehicle, non walled mini van.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 06:31 PM
i know testing would also help alot of this, but i know some people can throw in some of their opinions. nothing has to be fact.

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 06:36 PM
The only way to know what will be best for your vehicle would be to build and test.

/thread.

Just because one thing works for somebody else doesn't mean it will work for you, even if its the same vehicle. If there was one "best" way, then everybody would be doing it that way. Unfortuantely there isn't.

Any opinions that are given are just that, opinions. What they are telling you could be the exact opposite of what you need to do. Also, what org. are you going to compete in that you are willing to sacrifice high SPL numbers just so you can lower the tuning?

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 06:41 PM
thats a good question. i just dont want to sacrafice daily listening to compete with a higher tuning. i would just like opinion. maybe box building is different, but people can give ideas on how to build boxes for better movement of air, or which glue has worked better for them. just looking for opinions, yea thats all they are, but i like knowing peoples opinions.

tapout
12-25-2007, 06:42 PM
I prefer tite-bond ii over LN.

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 06:43 PM
thats a good question. i just dont want to sacrafice daily listening to compete with a higher tuning. i would just like opinion. maybe box building is different, but people can give ideas on how to build boxes for better movement of air, or which glue has worked better for them. just looking for opinions, yea thats all they are, but i like knowing peoples opinions.

Honestly, all you really have to do is search. There have been countless topics about this.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 08:01 PM
thanks tap-out. ok, well aside from tommyk's posts, does anyone else have any useful or valuable information they would like to talk about?

Skip01
12-25-2007, 08:10 PM
I wouldnt tune that low....youll get tired of it when some lil 2 10 box comes along and beats u and still plays music.....id prolly go with 40hz....be a really good mix between daily and good numbers

Unless you only play chopped and screwed music, its pretty much pointless

Thread rods or strips of mdf in the middle of baffle screwed to the sides also...seem to be best and less ugly

15nissen
12-25-2007, 08:26 PM
Use aero ports. Tune to whatever you want, whenever.


Merry Christmas:)

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 08:27 PM
I wouldnt tune that low....youll get tired of it when some lil 2 10 box comes along and beats u and still plays music.....id prolly go with 40hz....be a really good mix between daily and good numbers

Unless you only play chopped and screwed music, its pretty much pointless

Thread rods or strips of mdf in the middle of baffle screwed to the sides also...seem to be best and less ugly

No internal bracing is the best if you can avoid using it. The less turbulence, the better.

If it is ABSOLUTELY necessary, then I recommend threaded rod over strips of MDF or wooden dowels. The strenth is much greater than wooden dowels and it won't cause as much turbulence as MDF strips inside the box.

But if you can avoid using any bracing that would be your best bet for high SPL numbers. In fact, some vehicles actually GAIN when the box is unbraced/flexing. That's another thing to consider.


When I build a new SPL box, this is usually what I do. I start off with an absolutely plain box. No angles, no resin, no braces, nothing. Then little by little I add things, testing every step of the way to see what helps and what hurts. That's the only way to officially know what works and what doesn't.


To the OP, where is your box currently located and do you intend on keeping it there?

Subs up, port back is PROBABLY your best option seeing as it's pretty much the "standard" box used in everything besides trunk cars.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 08:38 PM
its sub up port back. 15 cubes after all displacements tuned to 35 hertz. right now its located outside of my house
i kicked it out of the van yesterday

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 08:39 PM
also, how do you go about mounting aeroports

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 08:43 PM
its sub up port back. 15 cubes after all displacements tuned to 35 hertz. right now its located outside of my house
i kicked it out of the van yesterday

What I meant by that is where is the box when its IN the van? Are all the seats in it? Is the box against the rear door? Etc. and so forth. The actual placement of the box can affect the score as much as the box itself.


also, how do you go about mounting aeroports

Aeroports have a mounting flange. You cut out a hole and mount them on the box with screws.

ContourSPL
12-25-2007, 08:46 PM
How much power are you running to the MT's? Sorry if it was in the first post and I missed it. If you are running a hefty amount of power to them, you can try shrinking the box down and keep the tuning.

I've heard of some people gaining a few when they flush mount the subs. Good luck.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 08:51 PM
im putting 2.5k before rise to each sub, or i was, but now 3.5 to each sub. and 6k for comps for burps. the box was about a foot away from the back hatch with port facing back hatch.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 08:52 PM
no seats except front in also

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w135/PioneerPimp/Picture055.jpg

60ndown
12-25-2007, 08:56 PM
thanks tap-out. ok, well aside from tommyk's posts, does anyone else have any useful or valuable information they would like to talk about?

competeing is crazy, why risk all your equipment and hard work to beat someone by 2 dbs? just install a nice daily system and enjoy :veryhapp:

60ndown
12-25-2007, 08:57 PM
no seats except front in also

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w135/PioneerPimp/Picture055.jpg

subs fireing back for best results, flip dat box.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 09:03 PM
i cant flip it

the backside wud hit the roof

Skip01
12-25-2007, 09:18 PM
No internal bracing is the best if you can avoid using it. The less turbulence, the better.

If it is ABSOLUTELY necessary, then I recommend threaded rod over strips of MDF or wooden dowels. The strenth is much greater than wooden dowels and it won't cause as much turbulence as MDF strips inside the box.

But if you can avoid using any bracing that would be your best bet for high SPL numbers. In fact, some vehicles actually GAIN when the box is unbraced/flexing. That's another thing to consider.




I can only go off me and my next door neighbors results were.....and he gained 2 WHOLE dbs from putting in a brace along the sub mount baffle and screwing it to the sides as well

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h136/DatDudeBL/SXinmine147002.jpg

This box here.....maybe in bigger boxes that works dont know....never heard of boxes flexxing to increase output:confused:

teamsubgopoof
12-25-2007, 09:35 PM
Ok so I'm kind of confused as to what you are after. Do you want to get loud...as in you are planing to compete in a sanctioned organization? Or do you just want to be loud as in daily impress people in your area loud?

As for some of your questions.

Bracing-I have found threaded rod works the best for High Power applications. It is easy to use and is plety strong. The only down side is its appearance but if you are in it to compete this shouldn't be a concern of yours.

FG Resin-This depends on many things. It definatly will not make an audible difference unless the consruction of your box is VERY poor and the FG is actually acting as a sealant. Termlab would be the only way to determine whether or not it makes a difference. I personally wouldn't resin your first box. And if you want to build a second and see if it makes a difference. FG Resin may also hurt your score.

45s in the corners-Just like FG resin. Can help, it also can hurt.

Box Design-I have always had luck with common chamber boxes...anytime you start spliting up woofers and adding mulitple ports on different planes of the box or different ends of a plane things usually dont work right. Basically the way Ive always constructed boxes was to try and channel the pressure inside the box efficiently towards the port. In doing this you want to try and minimalize areas in the box where pressure can be trapped and cause awkward loading on the rear side of the cone of the woofer. This can cause dustcaps to fly off cones to shatter and other things that aren't so pleasent.

As for ductape and gaskets- The ductape is to try and get a better seal between the driver and the baffle. And some use it because they are supersticious. But it has proven to help. I gained about a tenth when I was running a single 12" but the dual 10" setup didn't gain from duct tape.

As for your vehicle...im not sure haven't used one so I will leave this for someone better versed in a Dodge Caravan.



Not sure who told you this...but this isn't always the best way to go...that kind of sounds like a generalized statement. Personally (im not sure which size drivers you are using) but I would try sub up/port back with 6" aeros first...because they are in fact the easiest way to start with spl box design, because you can cut and add port until you find the loudest combination.


i told him that :)

teamsubgopoof
12-25-2007, 09:35 PM
I can only go off me and my next door neighbors results were.....and he gained 2 WHOLE dbs from putting in a brace along the sub mount baffle and screwing it to the sides as well

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h136/DatDudeBL/SXinmine147002.jpg

This box here.....maybe in bigger boxes that works dont know....never heard of boxes flexxing to increase output:confused:


flexing doesn't always increase OUTPUT persay...but it could increase SPL ;)

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 09:36 PM
haha. there he is. i like the look of that box also. what 12s are those?

matrxx dude
12-25-2007, 09:38 PM
there 10's re sx's

teamsubgopoof
12-25-2007, 09:38 PM
he showed me a video of his install the other night...and his subs aren't moving at all...at first I thought he was playing just real close to tuning, but when he showed me his port...its a vertical port around 200 sq inches firing back...i understood.

That back woofer is unloading like CRAZY and basically cancelling that other woofer out.

Playing some jeezy and they aren't moving at ALL.


I told him to go all the way across the bottom of the box to help the woofers load the port a little better..(thats part of the reason aeroports work so well :))


He is talking about using 2 mt 18s for now...and 4 18s later...on a maxximus.

I told him to do around 12 cubes, 120/140 sq inches of port around 15'' deep...will tune him a little under 40 hz and should go insane...you can go a little smaller on the port and the same depth and tune it lower if it doesn't give you the output you want

Skip01
12-25-2007, 09:39 PM
flexing doesn't always increase OUTPUT persay...but it could increase SPL ;)

Weirdddd....i never even heard that before....im not one to say its not true, cuz so many things that i dont know its not even funny




haha. there he is. i like the look of that box also. what 12s are those?

Those are 10s...and RE SXs:D...comp coming this weekend and ill have my new amp with some real power for them...see what they do:cool:

teamsubgopoof
12-25-2007, 09:42 PM
Weirdddd....i never even heard that before....im not one to say its not true, cuz so many things that i dont know its not even funny





Those are 10s...and RE SXs:D...comp coming this weekend and ill have my new amp with some real power for them...see what they do:cool:

Double layer or add bracing to that enclosure without re tuning...i bet you'll lose a few tenths..

and even re tuning you probobly won't be back where you should be.

We tried alot of things in our crx and the bravada...even a steel and concrete enclosure...a single layer box was the loudest

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 09:47 PM
haha weird the way those things work. but im gonna take justins advice over a lot of peoples here, he seems to know what hes talkin about. but opinions and all advice welcome. those 10 re sxs look ****. im thinking strongly on aeroports now

Skip01
12-25-2007, 09:47 PM
Double layer or add bracing to that enclosure without re tuning...i bet you'll lose a few tenths..

and even re tuning you probobly won't be back where you should be.

We tried alot of things in our crx and the bravada...even a steel and concrete enclosure...a single layer box was the loudest

Reread my posts......he added a brace down the center of it and gained 2db from that....:)

matrxx dude
12-25-2007, 09:48 PM
i love my aero's

teamsubgopoof
12-25-2007, 09:56 PM
Reread my posts......he added a brace down the center of it and gained 2db from that....:)

then something was flexing SUPER bad then.

I'm not talking about bracing a single layer particle board 15 cube box and gaining.

I'm talking about gaining with a well built spl box that has minimal flexing already :)

forgot where i was for a second there :cool:

Skip01
12-25-2007, 10:09 PM
then something was flexing SUPER bad then.

I'm not talking about bracing a single layer particle board 15 cube box and gaining.

I'm talking about gaining with a well built spl box that has minimal flexing already :)

forgot where i was for a second there :cool:

Yehh i hear ya....this was a pretty well built box from a Teammate of urs on Maxxsonics...Matt Sibley?.....its only 2.4ish cu total....

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 10:15 PM
no seats except front in also

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w135/PioneerPimp/Picture055.jpg

Put those subs side by side width wise, with the slot port/aeroports underneath the subs, I believe thats what justin told you to do and I'd agree with that.


I can only go off me and my next door neighbors results were.....and he gained 2 WHOLE dbs from putting in a brace along the sub mount baffle and screwing it to the sides as well

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h136/DatDudeBL/SXinmine147002.jpg

This box here.....maybe in bigger boxes that works dont know....never heard of boxes flexxing to increase output:confused:

Like I said man, not every trick works for every person. I added a double baffle and threaded rod to my single 10" box and gained jack squat. But other things gained me .5. ;)

Skip01
12-25-2007, 10:16 PM
Like I said man, not every trick works for every person. I added a double baffle and threaded rod to my single 10" box and gained jack squat. But other things gained me .5. ;)
Gotcha....haha what gained u...not bracing nothing?

teamsubgopoof
12-25-2007, 10:16 PM
Yehh i hear ya....this was a pretty well built box from a Teammate of urs on Maxxsonics...Matt Sibley?.....its only 2.4ish cu total....

yes i've known Matt for years...he knows what he's doing :)

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 10:18 PM
Gotcha....haha what gained u...not bracing nothing?

Things inside the box. Luckily the added bracing didn't hurt my score.

Chevyaudio
12-25-2007, 10:21 PM
i told him that :)

lol...


now this all makes sence Justin.

teamsubgopoof
12-25-2007, 10:22 PM
ya know...looking at that 4 10 box...

i don't think the brace is what gained..

i think its the way it loaded the woofers, its basically a divider there...also if he didn't already i'd make it go down as far as possible before hitting an aeroport


again spl is all about manipulation of air, and in that enclosure if you don't have a piece between the woofers they are going to fight each other....the divider was more for fighting cancellation not really a brace :)

Chevyaudio
12-25-2007, 10:24 PM
Im surprised you havne't tried to talk him into 200 10s.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 10:31 PM
hahaha

Skip01
12-25-2007, 10:31 PM
ya know...looking at that 4 10 box...

i don't think the brace is what gained..

i think its the way it loaded the woofers, its basically a divider there...also if he didn't already i'd make it go down as far as possible before hitting an aeroport


again spl is all about manipulation of air, and in that enclosure if you don't have a piece between the woofers they are going to fight each other....the divider was more for fighting cancellation not really a brace :)

You may be right...i have no idea the stuff he thinks of...i just try it and it works most the times haha.

Its pretty close to touching...only .6 per sub...went down from EDIT .7 cu per and gained a good bit

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 10:33 PM
You may be right...i have no idea the stuff he thinks of...i just try it and it works most the times haha.

Its pretty close to touching...only .6 per sub...went down from 1cu per and gained a good bit

I tried a fart box in my truck, ~.8-.9 per sub (2 10's), and lost 3 dB compared to the SINGLE 10". :crap:

My truck has never, ever liked fart boxes....ever.

pioneerpimp
12-25-2007, 10:59 PM
man, so many dieerent ideas

Skip01
12-25-2007, 11:02 PM
I tried a fart box in my truck, ~.8-.9 per sub (2 10's), and lost 3 dB compared to the SINGLE 10". :crap:

My truck has never, ever liked fart boxes....ever.

Weird....ur truck like daily systems better....and doesnt like SXs to haha:D

Lakota
12-25-2007, 11:06 PM
I tried a fart box in my truck, ~.8-.9 per sub (2 10's), and lost 3 dB compared to the SINGLE 10". :crap:

My truck has never, ever liked fart boxes....ever.

I think that my truck misses farting

twisztdauthorit
12-25-2007, 11:08 PM
I second using threaded tie rods and aero ports. Both have brought me good results.

Lakota
12-25-2007, 11:10 PM
I second using threaded tie rods and aero ports. Both have brought me good results.

Aero's are the best way to go:) It's so easy to swap tuning and test.

stuckinok
12-25-2007, 11:14 PM
man, so many dieerent ideas

dude thats why it comes down to your own testing and tuning

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 11:15 PM
Aero's are the best way to go:) It's so easy to swap tuning and test.

x2.

I tried out different port lengths and even though my peak frequency stayed the same I had a 1.5 dB swing. :eek:

Lakota
12-25-2007, 11:30 PM
x2.

I tried out different port lengths and even though my peak frequency stayed the same I had a 1.5 dB swing. :eek:

The exact same thing has happened to me. I'm starting to think that all my boxes like a single frequency and there's no way to get around it.

tommyk90
12-25-2007, 11:41 PM
The exact same thing has happened to me. I'm starting to think that all my boxes like a single frequency and there's no way to get around it.

There isn't. :laugh:

The only box that I had that was tuned low was my daily driver box that had a very small amount of port area.

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 12:12 AM
man i want some aeros

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 02:11 AM
wheres the best place to buy cheap aeros?

mlstrass
12-26-2007, 08:19 AM
I built a box for a single MT 18 for a daily car: 8.5^3 @ 35Hz. Sounds good on music and did a 146.xx at around 33Hz I believe with about 2k of power. It's sleepyjr's box on here, but I can't get Imageshack to open to post any pics. Has window bracing & 45's, so it could be louder with or without them as we did NO testing since it's just a daily box.

How loud you trying to get???

jerryrobinson
12-26-2007, 08:51 AM
can i stop by and check out you and your buddys system ?? my set up is almost the same pm me or call 773-655-3405

tommyk90
12-26-2007, 08:59 AM
wheres the best place to buy cheap aeros?

www.partsexpress.com

Search for the manufacturer "precision sound"

iamamp3pimp
12-26-2007, 09:06 AM
i havent done any testing at all, and idk what i hit, so there

AudioXtremes
12-26-2007, 09:28 AM
i along with double baffling, with kind of other supports work best. i have heard tie rod threading is a good choice. i had triple baffle on my last box, but i think it was a little unnecessary and added alot of weight.
Threaded rod. Dowels are ok. Big pieces of mdf bad.

I also have a 1990 dodge grand caravan. what is the best way to fire into these. sub up port back? sub back port back? sub up, port up? sub and port towards front of vehicle? sub back, port firing towards front? who has had some good numbers in any of these positions.
Sub up port back. Subs side by side width wise. Subs positioned on box as close to back door as possible. Trust me.

also, how much does fiberglass resign help, and if im going to do it, should i do whole box or jus corners?
Resin helps when you sand it smooth to lower air drag. Or to seal leaks. Not to strengthen. When used to strengthen in fart boxes it generally looses db because you made the box more rigid which lowers the resonance and isn't good when burping at 68hz.

45 degree corners, help at all or not?
Maybe, if there is a big problem with standing waves. I have generally found that they don't hurt and usually do it in daily boxes.

wud a port per woofer, in almost separate chambers be better than one big box with one port, for less cancellation, it it becomes a problem?
Common chamber. 3 6" aeros minimum. I would like to see 4.

I am looking to tune at 30 hertz.
Why? On a MT tuning below 34ish isn't going to gain much in the sub 30hz frequencys. Trust me.

Also, I am running MTs, who has had the best numbers at lower 30's freqs, and it what amount of cubic feet boxes were these MTs in. ive seen so many different sizes, looking to do research for volume now.
SPL 3cf each. Daily 8cf each.

Also, slot port to Aero ports, differences in both, and which one is better for higher numbers?
If you have the money do aeros.

also, rounded port corners everyone always suggests. I have been doing this on my last 7 boxes, but never really understood why except for better air flow, any other reasons?
Airflow

which is the best tightening solution when it comes to wood glue, i use liquid nails but am looking for something different, that may hold better.
Titebond III and screws.

also, i see SPL competitors dont use rubber gaskets around their subs, and some even go to the length of duct tape, im guessing to hold in air, anymore explanations. why dont some people use rubber gaskets?
The gaskets, while they look nice for daily, can leak. Bad. Not a perfect seal.

Next, which way is the best way to lay out subs in a box, although this may go hand in hand in positioning of subs.
Having subs length-wise in a vehicle such as you have laid it out doesn't work best. Keep subs away from large port openings and evenly spaced from them as well.
i was told by a knowledgeable competitor, to do a box, with a port across the bottom of the whole box, so no cancellation occurs as long as subs are side by side. im thinking bout this heavily, any other way to do it? is there any other way to manipulate air movement.
That works ok. But don't neglect the 9 to 1 rule. For every 9 inches of width you need 1 inch of height.

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 01:06 PM
****, that was a lot of well informed answers. so 3cf a piece for SPL? and daily is 8? what if i wanted to do 6 a piece? that would be ok as well, right? and how do you figure out how many aeros you need and the length of each one as well. and waht is the difference in 3 long aeros and 4 shorter ones that equals the same length as the 3" longer ones? i am thinking about tuning higher now also.

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 01:07 PM
i havent done any testing at all, and idk what i hit, so there

ok

AudioXtremes
12-26-2007, 04:34 PM
****, that was a lot of well informed answers. so 3cf a piece for SPL? and daily is 8? what if i wanted to do 6 a piece? that would be ok as well, right? and how do you figure out how many aeros you need and the length of each one as well. and waht is the difference in 3 long aeros and 4 shorter ones that equals the same length as the 3" longer ones? i am thinking about tuning higher now also.


down to 5cf is ok for daily. But you might want to tune a little lower. Say 32hz.

As for sizing aeros I like a 1/4 of the surface area.

18" sub figure 17" cone and 2 subs.

17/2=8.5
8.5x8.5x3.14=226.87x2subs=453.74

453.74/4=113.44sq inches of needed surface area.

6" aero is 28.26sq inches

113.44/28.26=4.02

So 4 6" aeros is best.

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 04:35 PM
what is all that **** calculation? any easier way to put it? so if tuning between 35-40 hertz, how many cubes should be good for daily? 6.5 or so?

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 04:36 PM
justin, did u do any shipping today?

AudioXtremes
12-26-2007, 04:38 PM
How much power are you running. Also, forget the calculations. Just try and run four 6" aeros. matter of fact give me your dimentions and I'll work it up.

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 04:40 PM
around 6k to each, for comps, but 3.5k for daily a piece. dimensions i do not know yet as i am trying to figure out how to build a nice box.

AudioXtremes
12-26-2007, 04:51 PM
I meant max dimentions and I'll work up the box.

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 05:49 PM
44 long by 32 deep by 22 high

pioneerpimp
12-26-2007, 11:31 PM
so whats up audioextremes? any anybody have any aeros for sale? 6" ones?

matrxx dude
12-26-2007, 11:35 PM
44 long by 32 deep by 22 high


thats the same outer dimesions as my box

matrxx dude
12-26-2007, 11:36 PM
i got 1 brand new precision port

pioneerpimp
12-27-2007, 12:29 AM
length and size? 6"? and how much to me?

AudioXtremes
12-27-2007, 07:59 AM
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270126&highlight=aero

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=268-354

matrxx dude
12-27-2007, 08:16 PM
45 shipped if you want it pimp

pioneerpimp
12-28-2007, 05:31 PM
no thanks on the aero matrxx, dont know what im doing yet. bump for anymore suggestions/tip/opinions