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View Full Version : Best Sound Quality Budget Comps...



mpbojangles
12-24-2007, 02:17 AM
I have $200 to spend on a new set of comps and after a little research and zero actual listening to anything, I am leaning toward the CDT Audio EF-61FG on woofersetc.

I listen mainly to post-rock, metal, and prog rock. I am planning to run whatever I get through a JL 300x2. I AM MAINLY CONCERNED WITH THE BEST SOUND QUALITY. Anyone have any other suggestions besides the CDT's? Thanks in advance and Happy Holidays ;)

Racerx250
12-24-2007, 02:21 AM
most ppl here will vouch for pg rsd's.

tcguy85
12-24-2007, 02:23 AM
pg rsd65cs comps

JimJ
12-24-2007, 02:25 AM
If you're truly concerned about SQ, then going active will best anything else you can find in that price range, by far.

mpbojangles
12-24-2007, 02:26 AM
You guys are saying that the PG's are better sounding than the CDT's, or they are just good comps for under $200?

dbaudio
12-24-2007, 02:26 AM
Rainbow SLC 265's are a great comp set that can be had for around $230 new (from one of the two authorized forum dealers of Rainbow) or around here on the forums for the mid 100's slightly used in great condition. I personally own a set, and they are great sounding comps. They perform well with every genre of music and they shine with any amount of power from 75 to 150 or so watts.

If you really want to pinch those pennies, the Phoenix Gold RSD65cs can be had for $90 on ebay. There is a review about them in the speaker review section of the forum, and I have heard from many others that they perform quite well. Only downside is that some component sets are faulty out of the box, weather it be bad quality control or sketchy dealers I don't know. But many have been satisfied with their PG RSD purchase and only a few have been problem plagued.

I have heard that the CDT's are either love it or hate it. Best bet is to try out a set before you buy them.

mpbojangles
12-24-2007, 02:27 AM
Alright fair enough, thanks guys. Keep the suggestions coming.

mpbojangles
12-24-2007, 02:29 AM
If you're truly concerned about SQ, then going active will best anything else you can find in that price range, by far.

It's been a very long while since I've been around the car audio world. Can you explain what going active entails and how it can be done for under 200?

sdmtnbiker420
12-24-2007, 02:29 AM
In my work truck, I have JBL GTO 6.5" components. They are about $100 a pair and I like them enough to buy them,

when I bought them, I tested and compared them to the infinity kappa, cerwin vega, alpine, and rockford fostgate 6.5" components. I ended up choosing the JBL GTO, with Infinity Kappa in a close second place.

JimJ
12-24-2007, 02:32 AM
It's been a very long while since I've been around the car audio world. Can you explain what going active entails and how it can be done for under 200?

It's moving the crossover from a physical one located after the amplifier, to an electronic one either in the head unit itself or an external piece. Then, you run each driver off its own amplifier channel...so you'd need 4 channels to run a basic 2-way setup (two tweets, two midbasses).

The advantage is that you're not stuck with some shoddily-built passive crossover that's set to some arbitrary value; you can fine-tune your Xover points and slopes to whatever works best in your actual install, by hearing it. And, when you want to upgrade drivers, you can simply swap them out and retune, instead of having to change everything all at once :)

NJAV1
12-24-2007, 02:35 AM
It's moving the crossover from a physical one located after the amplifier, to an electronic one either in the head unit itself or an external piece. Then, you run each driver off its own amplifier channel...so you'd need 4 channels to run a basic 2-way setup (two tweets, two midbasses).

The advantage is that you're not stuck with some shoddily-built passive crossover that's set to some arbitrary value; you can fine-tune your Xover points and slopes to whatever works best in your actual install, by hearing it. And, when you want to upgrade drivers, you can simply swap them out and retune, instead of having to change everything all at once :)


Good explanation ...FTW! :)

flakko
12-24-2007, 02:35 AM
If you're truly concerned about SQ, then going active will best anything else you can find in that price range, by far.

indeed.

coustic xm6 = 60.00 on ebay

pair = 70 shipped
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-364

pair = 80 shipped
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-130

eh $10 over but good combo

mpbojangles
12-24-2007, 02:37 AM
It's moving the crossover from a physical one located after the amplifier, to an electronic one either in the head unit itself or an external piece. Then, you run each driver off its own amplifier channel...so you'd need 4 channels to run a basic 2-way setup (two tweets, two midbasses).

The advantage is that you're not stuck with some shoddily-built passive crossover that's set to some arbitrary value; you can fine-tune your Xover points and slopes to whatever works best in your actual install, by hearing it. And, when you want to upgrade drivers, you can simply swap them out and retune, instead of having to change everything all at once :)

Hmm...okay, but this is still a bit over my head. Does going active mean you don't buy components? Can it be done for under 200? And if I need 4 channels to run a 2 way set up, does this mean I need another amp? Thanks again.

tcguy85
12-24-2007, 02:44 AM
^if you are new to this stuff stick to passive for a lil while until you get comfortable.

you can get excellent sound from passive anyway.

JimJ
12-24-2007, 02:44 AM
Does going active mean you don't buy components?

It means you piece together individual tweeters, midbasses, and a crossover. So you're the one making the component set instead of a company doing that all for you and packaging it together. The links above are a good place to look...

As for the amp, yes, you'd need two more channels. But you don't need a lot of power for the tweeters, something like a PG M25 would work and would be really cheap on Ebay...or a ton of other vintage amps that would be reasonable and provide reliable power.

flakko
12-24-2007, 02:46 AM
^if you are new to this stuff stick to passive for a lil while until you get comfortable.

you can get excellent sound from passive anyway.

yup agree here as well sometimes its better to KISS

JimJ
12-24-2007, 02:48 AM
^if you are new to this stuff stick to passive for a lil while until you get comfortable.

I'd disagree. If I had went active first instead of going with the Memphis Msync's, I would have learned so much more, much faster. You learn, by experience, what different Xover slopes do to affect the sound...how different crossover points affect your soundstage in your own vehicle...etc. All things that fall under trying to get the best sound quality, to use the OP's words.

With passives you're oblivious to any of that.

tcguy85
12-24-2007, 02:49 AM
yup agree here as well sometimes its better to KISS

whats meant by "KISS"?

flakko
12-24-2007, 02:53 AM
whats meant by "KISS"?

Keep it thimple thtupid!

mpbojangles
12-24-2007, 02:54 AM
^if you are new to this stuff stick to passive for a lil while until you get comfortable.

you can get excellent sound from passive anyway.

Its not like I really have time to get comfortable because I don't really stay in the "know how" once I buy my system. I can't imagine it being that much more difficult to manipulate an active system than a passive system.

@JimJ:

What about a crossover? Do I use the HU or do you also need to purchase a seperate crossover? Also, where does the crossover sit in the car, if indeed it does sit somewhere. Perhaps I am still a bit confused as to what you meant by "electronic" crossover.

@flakko:

Component systems cost a ton more than the woofers you posted. Are you saying those $30 woofers can put out the same SQ that a $200+ dollar component set can?

Thanks again guys. Its 2:53 AM est. wtf is everyone doing up so late? lol

tcguy85
12-24-2007, 02:58 AM
Its not like I really have time to get comfortable because I don't really stay in the "know how" once I buy my system. I can't imagine it being that much more difficult to manipulate an active system than a passive system.

Thanks again guys. Its 2:53 AM est. wtf is everyone doing up so late? lol

i don't see it being hard. i might try it in the future but for now i am happy and have no desire to change my front stage at all. but i do know what to do and what is required.

yea, it is late but i have no life and i am not tired yet.:D

JimJ
12-24-2007, 02:59 AM
What about a crossover? Do I use the HU or do you also need to purchase a seperate crossover? Also, where does the crossover sit in the car, if indeed it does sit somewhere. Perhaps I am still a bit confused as to what you meant by "electronic" crossover.

If your head unit is capable of active operation (it'll say it in the manual if it is), you can just use that, or use something like what Flakko linked to...you can put the crossover anywhere it's convienent, I usually like it somewhere easy to get to so adjusting it during listening isn't a hassle.


Component systems cost a ton more than the woofers you posted. Are you saying those $30 woofers can put out the same SQ that a $200+ dollar component set can?

What do you think the drivers these companies use actually cost? :) In addition, you've got crossover parts to deal with in a pre-built component set - and passive crossovers that are worth anything usually cost as much or more as the drivers themselves.

mpbojangles
12-24-2007, 03:03 AM
Cool, well I just bought the Pioneer DEH-9800BT, top of the line Pioneer HU, which I would assume can run active.

However, are standalone crossovers generally better than electronic ones? You are really selling me on this whole active thing.

tcguy85
12-24-2007, 03:09 AM
yea i'm 99% sure that head unit can run an active setup. i chose the 7800 instead because i thought the only difference was the bluetooth but i think i was wrong.

flakko
12-24-2007, 03:13 AM
Cool, well I just bought the Pioneer DEH-9800BT, top of the line Pioneer HU, which I would assume can run active.

looked it up and not sure....says 3-way crossover on the specs, but no other info on it. make sure first. but that coustic i mentioned seems to do well. i was going to use it before i got another car.

DejaWiz
12-24-2007, 03:19 AM
Cool, well I just bought the Pioneer DEH-9800BT, top of the line Pioneer HU, which I would assume can run active.

However, are standalone crossovers generally better than electronic ones? You are really selling me on this whole active thing.

To clarify, standalone crossover = active crossover = electronic crossover.

And I don't believe the 9800BT has a true 3-way active crossover built in. It will allow you to select LP for the sub channel and HP for the front and rear, but does not posses a band pass, iirc.

audiolife
12-24-2007, 04:45 AM
I'd disagree. If I had went active first instead of going with the Memphis Msync's, I would have learned so much more, much faster. You learn, by experience, what different Xover slopes do to affect the sound...how different crossover points affect your soundstage in your own vehicle...etc. All things that fall under trying to get the best sound quality, to use the OP's words.

With passives you're oblivious to any of that.

sould have went active with the m syncs i did

Ignatowski
12-24-2007, 07:24 AM
BUDGET = Find a deal on the web............

I dont believe in budget comps I believe in finding food deals
Like a brand new set of $600 comps for 150 bucks...... (example)
I dont ever want a budget speaker in my car,they really sound like **** usually

Search for a few days youll find a good deal
I always have

JimJ
12-24-2007, 01:22 PM
sould have went active with the m syncs i did

Sure, but now I really don't care enough about car audio to change it :)

I'd probably swap the tweet out to a silk dome if I ever did that...even with EQing the metal is a little too harsh for me...

audiolife
12-24-2007, 01:50 PM
Sure, but now I really don't care enough about car audio to change it :)

I'd probably swap the tweet out to a silk dome if I ever did that...even with EQing the metal is a little too harsh for me...

should look into diral (spell check) circuits...i know a few ultra high end sq competitors that run these over active x overs and love them. they change x over points with volume.