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View Full Version : sub fastener question.



audioarsonal
11-28-2007, 09:50 AM
I am building a box and want to mount the subs with something other then regular screws.I would like to do threaded inserts but don't know which I should choose?Anyone done something like this that has some recommendations?

audioarsonal
11-28-2007, 11:03 AM
anyone.......

tsenfw
11-28-2007, 11:07 AM
i just ordered these, I'll let you know how they work.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-778

audioarsonal
11-28-2007, 11:11 AM
Thanks.anyone else?

ItalynStylion
11-28-2007, 11:11 AM
Most people use T nuts to create a threaded insert. Just drill out a hole big enough for the T nut to fit in and then press it in the hole from the opposite side. Then use the bolt you bought that has the same thread design as the T nut to fasten the sub to it.

Most people use the screw to help "pull" the T nut into it's hole/final resting position.

Here is a pic of what i'm talking about. You can get them at lowes in the fastener section. They have tons to choose from.
http://www.rontimco.com/images/tnutw.jpg

ItalynStylion
11-28-2007, 11:13 AM
i just ordered these, I'll let you know how they work.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-778

Yeah, that's how you should do it. You can piece together the same exact kit with stuff from Lowes like I was talking about. If the shipping is free that kit would be worth it if you can wait for the mail. If you have to pay shipping then it will be more expensive.

basebalz13
11-28-2007, 11:13 AM
iight if box is double baffled on the top how would you use those hex head screws and t-nut because i was lookin at gettin those too:confused:

Lil Poot
11-28-2007, 11:14 AM
threaded inserts worked great in my case. you drill a pilot hole, then thread them into it with an allen. mine are 1/4-20. it's a pretty heavy sub though.

t-nuts tend to strip out, hurricane nuts are a bit better, but threaded inserts seem to be the best way to go. how heavy of a sub are you talking?

audioarsonal
11-28-2007, 11:14 AM
Yeah I seen them at lowes.I didn't know if anyone had anything special just lookin for ideas.Thanks

Chevillac
11-28-2007, 11:19 AM
I might have to try those fastners next time. I usually just use whatever comes with the sub, mixed with the wood screws I already have.

tsenfw
11-28-2007, 11:28 AM
How did you install the the threaded inserts? Not much room for error with those.

audioarsonal
11-28-2007, 11:31 AM
The sub ways bout 50-55lbs.What do you mean they strip out?The inside thred or the outside prongs?

twisztdauthorit
11-28-2007, 01:41 PM
I used t-nuts on my last install and they seem to work fine. only problem is its hard to keep the back but in place after you put the speaker in...
ie: when u try to push the bolt through to screw it in sometimes it will push out the nut if its not in there tight enough.

audioarsonal
11-28-2007, 02:39 PM
I was thinking about that.Thought i'd put some resin on it to hold it in place.Or counter sink it just a bit so it fits down in the hole thightly.

Lil Poot
11-28-2007, 03:43 PM
i dont mean the metal itself tends to strip out. the spikes tend to tear through the wood and you're left with unattractive options to get the sub back out.

audioarsonal
11-28-2007, 03:58 PM
So they just kinda spin cause there not attached to the wood anymore?I wondered that cause on another project I used them and went to loosin the bolt and it just spun all the little spikes flat.
These will be in a double baffle so do you think the inserts are better?I'e seen some that look like a pine cone and some that have threads on the outside.Is that what you used?

Immacomputer
11-28-2007, 05:27 PM
Please save yourself a huge headache and don't use T-nuts. I've never used threaded inserts but they look much more promising than T-nuts. Never will I let a friend or even an enemy use T-nuts for a speaker enclosure again.

TIeclipseMOJO
11-28-2007, 05:32 PM
has anyone ever seen those hex head cap screws but with threads for wood? i bought a sub/box used and it had them but ive never been able to find them anywhere else, i love them though because the head ends up flush with the rubber gasket. ill hook someone up if they find them for me

bopo668
11-28-2007, 06:55 PM
I would not suggest t-nuts or hurricane nuts the prongs strip out the wood to easy.From personal experience i got my 12" stuck in a box and ended up having to drill through the screw.WAS A B*ITCH

twisztdauthorit
11-28-2007, 08:38 PM
ok... everyone is saying no t-nuts or hurricane nuts... so what the hell is everyone using then?

i suppose... since generally the t-nuts will be permament... maybe dab them in some glue before inserting them so they wont come loose as easily?

brokeitagain
11-28-2007, 09:26 PM
i switched to using t nuts for the new setup thats going into my blazer, most of my other setups have had problems with the MDF disintegrating around the cutout hole. I have used these on other things before and if u use a screw and washer to install them before the driver is installed it is much easier. I used #10 machine screws

I have used bottom of the barrel stuff like Kicker Comps, Pioneer, Memphis PR's and Memphis M3's. I have never had any experience with any real subs. So my results may not match yours

Immacomputer
11-28-2007, 11:39 PM
maybe dab them in some glue before inserting them so they wont come loose as easily?

That doesn't work as many times the layer of the wood is still attached into the prongs.

audioarsonal
11-29-2007, 09:43 AM
I had that problem with an amp rack I did.The **** spikes just flatened right out!So the thread inserts are like $4-5 at lowes for 2 so I don't know if its gonna be worth it??Might have to just stick with good ol screws.