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View Full Version : SOUNDSTREAM TRC.6N 6" TARANTULA vs. DLS UP6 2-Way 6.5'



alex6999
11-22-2007, 01:54 PM
I want to make quality and very load system.
First i going to buy DLS UP6 - 150 RMS (208+29shipping)
and choose power accoustic OV2-1250 amp. its deliver 220 x 2 at 4 ohms.
but.... now i found SOUNDSTREAM TRC.6N 6" TARANTULA
200 RMS!!!!! ($140+25)
and want it, but i know that cheap amp lie, and real power of my amp 150*2, not 220.

what to do?
If i will keep my amp for future midbass and will buy poweraccoustik OV2-1800(300 rms * 2) and tarantula speakers, will my system louder than DLS UP6 + OV2-1250. louder means without speaker damages.

DLS very serious company, and will no lie about RMS power, but i dont know much about powerstream, and probably TRC.6N will be damaged with 200 RMS.

need advice. thanks

VQ35max
11-22-2007, 02:35 PM
DLS and Soundstream speakers are polar opposites. Not sure how you narrowed your choices down to these two.

alex6999
11-22-2007, 03:34 PM
i narrowed choice by maximum RMS power. 150 rms minimum
why this speakers polar opposites?

PS: i found in ebay BOSS BLX6 6.5" 2-Way 450W BLADE EXXTREME Series Component SPEAKERS
225 RMS power ($25+25ship) but i didnot trust to this RMS for this money.

VQ35max
11-22-2007, 03:49 PM
Basically DLS is an SQ speaker and Soundstream is just mainstream, haven't heard them but I would guess they get decently loud and probably don't sound too bad.

Boss is crap.

You can't make your decisions based on RMS power. Check this thread for some respected speaker companies that make nice components: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272594

How much money are you willing to spend on the front speakers?

alex6999
11-22-2007, 04:52 PM
Basically DLS is an SQ speaker and Soundstream is just mainstream, haven't heard them but I would guess they get decently loud and probably don't sound too bad.
That is mainstream?
you frase confuse me.


You can't make your decisions based on RMS power.
I know, I will never buy boss, but I need balanced SQ and minimum 150 RMS.


Check this thread for some respected speaker companies that make nice components: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272594
Some speaker from this list too cheap -> suspicious.


How much money are you willing to spend on the front speakers?
Good question. cannot answer for it
DLS UP6 - 150 RMS = $237 total - reasanable price. i think it maximum.
but.... if somebody offer me DLS with 200 RMS for $300 i will but it.

SOUNDSTREAM TRC.6N 6½" TARANTULA 200 RMS for $165 - price looks better.

cool color or multicolor LED illumination - asset, but not big, i can do external illumination.

PS: why nobody make 2 ohm speakers?

VQ35max
11-22-2007, 05:00 PM
Soundstream is mainstream in the sense that their speakers aren't typically used in SQ applications. I haven't personally heard any, but I'd guess they're similar to other offerings from companies like Pioneer, Alpine, JBL, Polk, etc.

Price doesn't necessarily correlate to performance. Being on a car audio forum I would figure you already knew this and weren't a lemming like the general consumer.

Get RMS rating out of your head. My Cadence front speakers are rated at like 50 or 75 watts, but I'm giving them 150w a piece with no problems. Don't assume the factory power rating is the maximum you can run to the speakers.

There are a few 2 ohm speakers on the market, but 4 ohm speakers dominate. Look into Image Dynamics CXS62 if you need a 2ohm component set.

alex6999
11-22-2007, 05:21 PM
Soundstream is mainstream in the sense that their speakers aren't typically used in SQ applications. I haven't personally heard any, but I'd guess they're similar to other offerings from companies like Pioneer, Alpine, JBL, Polk, etc.
so... you recomend me to choose DLS UP6?
is it possible to buy fake from power seller with 4301 feedback on ebay?

And what is the difference betweeb UP6 and MS6A?
first 150 rms and 88db, second 100 rms and 92db
but i heard that i will not hear difference.

what about DIAMOND AUDIO S600s 6.5" HEX, 170 rms - $268 ?


Price doesn't necessarily correlate to performance. Being on a car audio forum I would figure you already knew this and weren't a lemming like the general consumer.
I will newer believe that good speaker cost $50
buy yes, $200 can be better than $500.


Get RMS rating out of your head. My Cadence front speakers are rated at like 50 or 75 watts, but I'm giving them 150w a piece with no problems. Don't assume the factory power rating is the maximum you can run to the speakers.
good assurance factor, but it can vary between same speakers.


There are a few 2 ohm speakers on the market, but 4 ohm speakers dominate. Look into Image Dynamics CXS62 if you need a 2ohm component set.
which one i can found on ebay with price around $200, with RMS around 150, SQ preferably.?

my amp deliver more power, 280 instread of 220 rms per channel

VQ35max
11-22-2007, 07:08 PM
I'm not familiar with DLS' speaker line too well, so I don't know the difference between the UP6 and MS6A, or whether counterfeit samples exist.

I never claimed a 'good' speaker costs $50. And 'good' is relative, a Pioneer REV will certainly sound better than a stock factory speaker to the general consumer, so to that person the REV will be a great speaker. For someone who is exposed to $500+ speakers and has an ear for acoustical differences the REV will be a bad speaker. With that said the PG Rsd, Cadence CWM-6, and CDT CL-S60A are all good component sets for under $100 that I would recommend.

Yes, power rating overhead will vary between manufacturers, with voice coil size playing an important role. Here is a novel idea for you, try to search the forum and see what other people are running to their speakers and that will give you a good idea how much the speaker you are looking to buy can take.

I don't know of any 2 ohm component sets for $200.

alex6999
11-22-2007, 09:11 PM
I never claimed a 'good' speaker costs $50. And 'good' is relative, a Pioneer REV will certainly sound better than a stock factory speaker to the general consumer, so to that person the REV will be a great speaker. For someone who is exposed to $500+ speakers and has an ear for acoustical differences the REV will be a bad speaker. With that said the PG Rsd, Cadence CWM-6, and CDT CL-S60A are all good component sets for under $100 that I would recommend.
i dont like CWM-6, yes its looks good before $100 but i need something powerfull.
PG Rsd and CDT CL-S60A not found on ebay. this only one source for me.
i found CADENCE 6x9 600w COMPETITION - $199, it says
IASCA TURKEY last week where Cadence took 3 x First Place Trophies and 4 x 2nd Trophies including loudest 2 woofer vehicle which hit 168.3dB
maybe i need to buy this one, put it to box end enjoy? Anybody hear it?
I can only install it to boxes, I driving truck and its not nine truck, if i drill holes, i will be requred to leave speakers there.


Yes, power rating overhead will vary between manufacturers, with voice coil size playing an important role. Here is a novel idea for you, try to search the forum and see what other people are running to their speakers and that will give you a good idea how much the speaker you are looking to buy can take.
I didnot hear any bad word against DSL

VQ35max
11-22-2007, 09:40 PM
i dont like CWM-6, yes its looks good before $100 but i need something powerfull.
PG Rsd and CDT CL-S60A not found on ebay. this only one source for me.
i found CADENCE 6x9 600w COMPETITION - $199, it says
IASCA TURKEY last week where Cadence took 3 x First Place Trophies and 4 x 2nd Trophies including loudest 2 woofer vehicle which hit 168.3dB
maybe i need to buy this one, put it to box end enjoy? Anybody hear it?
I can only install it to boxes, I driving truck and its not nine truck, if i drill holes, i will be requred to leave speakers there.


I didnot hear any bad word against DSL

What do you mean you're going to put them into a box? You mean fabricate some kick panels? 6x9's are not recommended by most audiophiles. Stick to 6.5" mids.

What do you mean by "need something powerful" when you mentioned the CWM-6? They can take 150wrms easily, possibly more but I don't want to risk blowing mine.

Let me ask you what high-end component sets have you even heard before? You seem deadset on throwing a lot of power to your front speakers, but from all your posts your the quintessential n00b and don't have a clue what a nice comp set with 150wrms can sound like.

To give you an answer, if you want something "powerfull" get some Morel Elates and give them 300+w a side and call it a day.

alex6999
11-22-2007, 11:41 PM
What do you mean you're going to put them into a box? You mean fabricate some kick panels? 6x9's are not recommended by most audiophiles. Stick to 6.5" mids.
box, enclosure... like for sub.


What do you mean by "need something powerful" when you mentioned the CWM-6? They can take 150wrms easily, possibly more but I don't want to risk blowing mine.
rms rating - power when spaeker guaranteed will not be damaged



Let me ask you what high-end component sets have you even heard before? You seem deadset on throwing a lot of power to your front speakers, but from all your posts your the quintessential n00b and don't have a clue what a nice comp set with 150wrms can sound like.
Alpine SPR-17S - 110 RMS - nothing especial.
Pioneer - TS-C160R - 60 RMS - nice but small RMS rating
Sony - XSHF137 - scrap.

all of them from bestbuy(scrap electronics seller number one)


To give you an answer, if you want something "powerfull" get some Morel Elates and give them 300+w a side and call it a day.
how much it costs?

VQ35max
11-23-2007, 01:31 AM
Search.

alex6999
11-23-2007, 01:47 AM
Search.
how much it cost was ritoric question

genxx
11-23-2007, 02:22 AM
You cannot go wrong with the DLS.IMO The SoundStream are junk, the Cadence are decent.IMO

In your price range--
Pioneer 720's-You can find these for $250.00
Link to a long review from tons of people on the Pioneer. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7302
These have also been reviewed by CA&E and passed with flying colors.

Also look at the PPI 356CS I have not heard these but they have been highly recommended many times. You can find them for $200-$250.

PG Ti Elite if you still find them, woofersect.com had them for $299.00. Rebadged Morel.

Others to look at Boston Acoustic, MB Quartz all in your price range. The POLK SR if you can get a deal on them usually going for around $400 or so.

PG RSd-Yes they are on ebay, all over the **** place. For price range from $90-$200 these are the top dog.IMO

99% of car audio speakers are not designed for boxed enclosure (Unless we are talking subs) they are designed to run IB. There are exceptions like the CDT HD M6, ES-06+ ect.

Again get RMS out of your head for basing your decision on why to buy a specific set of comps. Again not be an *** but all you have to do is search on here and you will find a ton of info.

alex6999
11-23-2007, 02:45 AM
You cannot go wrong with the DLS.
OK, thanks, i will buy DLS UP6


Pioneer 720's-You can find these for $250.00
more expensive that DLS, just 50 rms and just 88 db


PPI 356CS You can find them for $200-$250.
60 rms - DLS UP6 better.


PG Ti Elite if you still find them, woofersect.com had them for $299.00. Rebadged Morel.
this website too expensive, more expensive than even walmart(compared by lighting audio sub)


Others to look at Boston Acoustic, MB Quartz all in your price range. The POLK SR if you can get a deal on them usually going for around $400 or so.


PG RSd-Yes they are on ebay, all over the **** place. For price range from $90-$200 these are the top dog.IMO
0 items found for: PG RSd


99% of car audio speakers are not designed for boxed enclosure (Unless we are talking subs) they are designed to run IB. There are exceptions like the CDT HD M6, ES-06+ ect.
door works like enclosure.
6*9 speakers ans freeair subs use trunk as enclosure.
CDT HD M6 looks good, but too expensive, i thinking about DLS RW6 as midrange.


Again get RMS out of your head for basing your decision on why to buy a specific set of comps. Again not be an *** but all you have to do is search on here and you will find a ton of info.
thanks, i already read all topics with DLS UP6 in it. I will take it.

VQ35max
11-23-2007, 02:49 AM
more expensive that DLS, just 50 rms and just 88 db


60 rms - DLS UP6 better.


this website too expensive, more expensive than even walmart(compared by lighting audio sub)


This guy just does not listen, wow.

mavster
11-23-2007, 03:24 AM
Erm, your shopping at Walmart for drivers? and you want to go with DLS drivers?

Man do yourself a favor..find an authorized dealer/installer for a brand and just stick with them...

Might cost you more in the beginning but it would save us from answering stupid questions.

alex6999
11-23-2007, 03:36 AM
This guy just does not listen, wow.
listen what? I asking about speaker 150 w rms minimum.
and i dont want spent too much.

Speaker rated to 100 w rms designed to handle 100 watts. 99% goes to heat, exeding this means overheating. also diffosor can jump out.

also sensitivity very important, 60 rms with 88 db will never play loud.

What do you recommend me? take $75 100W speakers and run it on 150W?
or spend $300? am i does not listen?


Erm, your shopping at Walmart for drivers? and you want to go with DLS drivers?
no, just compare prices. I found that walmart not cheap.


Man do yourself a favor..find an authorized dealer/installer for a brand and just stick with them... Might cost you more in the beginning but it would save us from answering stupid questions.
if you think that my question stupid, why you answer?
find dealer? my vehicle does not fit any dealer shop. and i dont want pay twice or even more.

VQ35max
11-23-2007, 03:51 AM
We're answering you're questions cause we are trying to educate you and help you out.

Did you ever stop and think maybe the 100w power rating a manufacturer assigns to a driver is below actual thermal and mechanical threshold due to them not wanting to deal with uninformed consumers who will end up blowing them by clipping the signal or placing them in a poorly designed box that leads to overexcursion?

I'm done in this thread.

mavster
11-23-2007, 04:05 AM
listen what? I asking about speaker 150 w rms minimum.
and i dont want spent too much.

Speaker rated to 100 w rms designed to handle 100 watts. 99% goes to heat, exeding this means overheating. also diffosor can jump out.

also sensitivity very important, 60 rms with 88 db will never play loud.

What do you recommend me? take $75 100W speakers and run it on 150W?
or spend $300? am i does not listen?


no, just compare prices. I found that walmart not cheap.


if you think that my question stupid, why you answer?
find dealer? my vehicle does not fit any dealer shop. and i dont want pay twice or even more.

Dude, you sound like a bloody retarted immigrant...

Your english is poor and your grammer is even worse...

Come on, I know the Canadian school system is a tad below most standards but which district kept him from the short bus?

Not even forgetting the fact, who gave you a license?

i'm with VQ, I am also done...

alex6999
11-23-2007, 04:06 AM
Did you ever stop and think maybe the 100w power rating a manufacturer assigns to a driver is below actual thermal and mechanical threshold due to them not wanting to deal with uninformed consumers who will end up blowing them by clipping the signal or placing them in a poorly designed box that leads to overexcursion?
Yes, i understand, but if speaker with 100w rating can take 150w, than speaker with 150w rating can take 225 w.


Dude, you sound like a bloody retarted immigrant...
why bloody?


Your english is poor and your grammer is even worse...
Come on, I know the Canadian school system is a tad below most standards but which district kept him from the short bus?
I dont understand that you say, and what short bus are you talking about. and i dont know nothing about Canadian school system



Not even forgetting the fact, who gave you a license?
which one? driver licence? I bribed exaninator.

genxx
11-24-2007, 02:53 AM
You are knocking the 720's did you even read the **** review's I posted. You seem to know it all so no need to start any more threads on here or even ask any more questions. You have more knowledge than anyone on here. Every time you get an answer you try to come up some lame brain idea why all the replies you recieve are not correct.

A door is not an enclosure. Not unless you are able to seal the entire **** door. Thats why a door is IB and the manufactures design their drivers as such.

The DLS are fine but you just do not listen or even try to learn from anyone. You should start your own forum where you can be the expert all the time, since you already know everything.

alex6999
11-25-2007, 05:41 PM
Every time you get an answer you try to come up some lame brain idea why all the replies you recieve are not correct.
is it so bad?


A door is not an enclosure. Not unless you are able to seal the entire **** door. Thats why a door is IB and the manufactures design their drivers as such.
hmm.... maybe its vented box?
in other words i can install 6.5 door speaker anywhere?



The DLS are fine but you just do not listen or even try to learn from anyone. You should start your own forum where you can be the expert all the time, since you already know everything.
I not even close to expert. i just start.

VQ35max
11-25-2007, 06:09 PM
I not even close to expert. i just start.



Shut up no way, you really had me fooled. :rolleyes:

alex6999
11-25-2007, 07:11 PM
Shut up no way, you really had me fooled. :rolleyes:
You are very polite.

just for your peace of mind(not mine, i dont care), please do not open my topics.

VQ35max
11-25-2007, 07:21 PM
You are very polite.


I know, thanks. :D

skydeaner
11-26-2007, 12:17 AM
french ****s lol

VQ35max
11-26-2007, 12:22 AM
Dude don't get it started, this thread could explode into like 15+ pages if all the Frenchie haters hear about it.

mvw2
11-26-2007, 01:32 AM
alex, you have a lot to learn in this hobby we call car audio. Right now you are a blind man walking in a forest. You have no clue where you are or what you're doing. This is quite obvious, so I suggest you first stop what you're doing and get your bearings.

First off, you'll have to learn some basic knowledge about speakers. Understand what they are and how they work. Understand the specs and what they mean. Right now, you have absolutely no clue about anything. DLS and Boss are on completely opposite sides of the spectrum from quality products to cheap junk. In your eyes, you can't see this. This is from a lack of knowledge.

I'll start you off with some basics.

Wattage ratings are meaningless in determining how good a speaker is. MAX wattage is absolutely meaningless and simply exists for marketing. RMS wattage is good, but it's only a measure of thermal power handling(ability for the speaker to dissipate heat. This says nothing about how the speaker sounds or even how loud it gets. The purpose of the wattage rating is to tell you which amp you should pair the speaker to. If a speaker is rated for 100w rms, you might want to look at amps that will output 100w rms to the speaker.

I suggest you head over to:
http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/showthread.php?t=262495
and start reading. Also hit up:
http://www.bcae1.com/
and
http://www.the12volt.com/

Spend a good month reading through everything.

Second, go out to all your local electronics stores and car audio shops and demo EVERYTHING. Get a feel for all the available products and how they perform/sound. Talk to the sales people, but take everything they say with a grain of salt. Most of what comes out of their mouths is complete B.S., however they may say something intelligent once in a while and you may learn something. I can not stress enough to take their words lightly. MUCH of the information you will receive is probably not true. With your lack of knowledge, you will not be able to distinguish fact from fiction though. The key here is to gain real word experience with the hardware and to get a taste of what's there. DO NOT BUY ANYTHING. Again, your goal is not to purchase hardware, just to experience them. I say don't buy because again you have no clue what you're doing yet and most everything at the store can be purchased far cheaper online anyways(think half price).

Come back in one month and post a thread. Until then, I highly suggest you stop right now and start learning the basics. Build up your knowledge and experience first.

alex6999
11-30-2007, 12:42 AM
french ****s lol
You dont like french? you just dont know how to properly cook them.
your city, Champaign, IL, looks like was founded by frenchs, maybe you have froggy blood too?
dont worry I am not french, I am russian and dont like french too. but I know them, you dont.


Dude don't get it started, this thread could explode into like 15+ pages if all the Frenchie haters hear about it.
how do you think, that nationality should i be to explode thread as much as possible?


alex, you have a lot to learn in this hobby we call car audio. Right now you are a blind man walking in a forest.
yes, you right.


First off, you'll have to learn some basic knowledge about speakers. Understand what they are and how they work. Understand the specs and what they mean.
I suggest you head over to:
http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/showthread.php?t=262495
and start reading. Also hit up:
http://www.bcae1.com/
and
http://www.the12volt.com/

first link not working, second link very-very nice, but i know all theoretical basics of electrical circuits and not only basics.


Right now, you have absolutely no clue about anything. DLS and Boss are on completely opposite sides of the spectrum from quality products to cheap junk. In your eyes, you can't see this. This is from a lack of knowledge.
if you read carefully I told first that boss is junk. just based on it price.


Wattage ratings are meaningless in determining how good a speaker is. MAX wattage is absolutely meaningless and simply exists for marketing. RMS wattage is good, but it's only a measure of thermal power handling(ability for the speaker to dissipate heat. This says nothing about how the speaker sounds or even how loud it gets. The purpose of the wattage rating is to tell you which amp you should pair the speaker to. If a speaker is rated for 100w rms, you might want to look at amps that will output 100w rms to the speaker.
and you didnot say nothing about sensetivety, this parameter how loud speaker.
but, i cannot understand, DLS UP6 rated 150W and 88db, DLS MS6A(reference series) rated 100W, 92 db and CHEAPER. it meant MS6 2.5 times louder at same wattage?


Second, go out to all your local electronics stores and car audio shops and demo EVERYTHING. Get a feel for all the available products and how they perform/sound.
you know, very hard to find stand with DLS spekers, i know only bestbuy, but you know what junk they sell.


DO NOT BUY ANYTHING.
too late, i already bought UP6. I dint think that I made big mistake.


Again, your goal is not to purchase hardware, just to experience them. I say don't buy because again you have no clue what you're doing yet and most everything at the store can be purchased far cheaper online anyways(think half price).
yes, everything comes from ebay.