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View Full Version : Problems With my first box build --pics--



alexdbest2000
10-14-2007, 02:20 AM
alright i picked up some this 3/4 MDF this afternoon to build a ported enclosure tuned to 34 HZ and 2 cubes. took my time to make perfect measurements, then when i got to the cutting it went all downhill...anyway a couple of cuts where around 1/8 inch off. i havent glued or screwed anything yet or even made the sub hole. it looks alot worse then it is because of this, the gaps aren't even close to what they seem but they are there. when i start putting it together, will the glue along with caulking around the edge fix this? anything else i can do?


http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4723-1.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4745.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4721.jpg

shavenblazer
10-14-2007, 02:23 AM
Lots and lots of calk lol.

dleccord
10-14-2007, 02:27 AM
gorilla glue my friend, plus tight bond 2 for sealing. chaulking can get messy.

Max_Power
10-14-2007, 02:28 AM
I think your problem is that you didn't account for the blade width, or you cut on the wrong side of the line.

to your question though, Im not sure that caulk or glue could fix that. better build another one to be sure.

alexdbest2000
10-14-2007, 02:33 AM
to your question though, Im not sure that caulk or glue could fix that. better build another one to be sure.

you mean cut out another back cutout?

and no i did my research fore building the box, i knew to account for the blade, i just really **** at cutting with a circular saw.

Max_Power
10-14-2007, 02:34 AM
yeah

Stem
10-14-2007, 05:32 AM
def cut a new piece

Mr Cabinetry
10-14-2007, 10:04 AM
Caulk is not going to fix this abortion, no way in he!!.

You said you took the time to make the measurements " perfect " though the results say otherwise and from the looks of it there not a square cut on any of those pieces, let alone any of the parts being anywhere near close to being the same widths.

Toss it and start over and take your time.

Joseph K
10-14-2007, 10:20 AM
i just really **** at cutting with a circular saw.

:wow: Monkeys have been trained to make straight cuts with circular saws...







REDO IT! ;)

djman37
10-14-2007, 10:20 AM
Did you make a straight edge to use as a guide with the circ. saw? get two clamps and a straight edge piece from the first piece of wood to make guide for this next box.

The 'other' fix not mentioned yet, IF you must keep that box is to take mdf 'strips' from the straight edge of the wood and glue them on the inside to clean up that edge. They will only slightly change the internal volume, add support, AND help seal that crappily cut box off!
Use them on the front-right, back-right, and back-top-right corners. TRY to caulk that back left edge, it doesn't look that horrible.

joem1cha3l
10-14-2007, 10:38 AM
use a table saw.

oxsign
10-14-2007, 10:44 AM
use a table saw.Not everyone has access to one. You use what you have. One thing you could do is have home depote/lowes cut it for you, but if you really want to do it yourself, then have at it. It's your first one, and your going to run into issues like this. Pay attention to want you did this time, and learn not to repeat it again on the next one. You may want to recut a piece or 2 and see how the fit is from there.


P.S. clamps help alot with closing up some of the tiny gaps. :cool:

PV Audio
10-14-2007, 12:55 PM
gorilla glue my friend, plus tight bond 2 for sealing. chaulking can get messy.....No.

To threadstarter: stop worrying about it. You honestly haven't seen bad box construction until you've seen my first speakers (which I know someone will graciously post pictures of LOL). To make straight cuts easier with a circular saw, here's what I used to do:

1. Measure distance from edge of saw fence to the middle of the blade.

2. Very carefully, draw a line of that width along a piece of wood (MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT, OR IT'S USELESS).

3. Cut this piece of wood using a fence to keep it straight.

4. This piece you just cut is now a guide to a perfect cut every time. Place it at the edge of every line you draw for your panels, and it'll cut the panel to the dimension you want every time. And even it if doesn't, the maximum you can be off is 1/16" of an inch (because you measured to the middle of the blade, not the edge), which is easily correctable.

Wkbdkid
10-14-2007, 02:15 PM
It looks like that was jus a test fit. Once you screw the pieces together the gap might close up a little more. If its still a good size gap you could make small 45 degrees pieces an put them in the corners, but that might change the tunning of the port some.

alexdbest2000
10-14-2007, 03:00 PM
this morning i asked my dad about the saw i used and he laughed and said the blade wasn't centered, so he gave me one he uses and i redid mostly everything free hand.
this box is not glued or screwed yet

here are some new pics and dimensions, heres the diagram i used
http://img34.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2cubes34hz3125sqin1cm.png

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4763.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4781.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4779.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4775.jpg

alexdbest2000
10-14-2007, 03:03 PM
anything you guys see i could improve before i put it together?

EnvEe 02
10-14-2007, 03:04 PM
second one looks better, from what I can see at least

alexdbest2000
10-14-2007, 04:37 PM
sorry the diagram seems fine

jblayz1
10-14-2007, 04:50 PM
.5" in port width will change the tunning.

alexdbest2000
10-14-2007, 04:53 PM
what should i do then? mabye he just made a mistake and its suppost to be 3". any formals to find this out?

jblayz1
10-14-2007, 04:59 PM
2.5" port width will give that box a 31.8 hz tuning.

3" port width 35.5 hz.

LPort_Box_Calc (http://reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html)

wong05tsx
10-14-2007, 05:15 PM
cut out a same size as the port piece of .5" mdf and glue it with it?

Joseph K
10-14-2007, 06:36 PM
;) Much better

twisztdauthorit
10-15-2007, 02:02 AM
....No.

To threadstarter: stop worrying about it. You honestly haven't seen bad box construction until you've seen my first speakers (which I know someone will graciously post pictures of LOL). To make straight cuts easier with a circular saw, here's what I used to do:

1. Measure distance from edge of saw fence to the middle of the blade.

2. Very carefully, draw a line of that width along a piece of wood (MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT, OR IT'S USELESS).

3. Cut this piece of wood using a fence to keep it straight.

4. This piece you just cut is now a guide to a perfect cut every time. Place it at the edge of every line you draw for your panels, and it'll cut the panel to the dimension you want every time. And even it if doesn't, the maximum you can be off is 1/16" of an inch (because you measured to the middle of the blade, not the edge), which is easily correctable.

can you elaborate on this method? kinda confused

bball09124
10-15-2007, 02:07 AM
are all the pieces of wood just leaning up against each other? because you said you didnt screw it down or glue it. maybe i missed something, but when you actually put it together shouldnt everything line up a little better?

alexdbest2000
10-15-2007, 02:59 AM
of course i will

alexdbest2000
10-19-2007, 08:13 PM
heres the final product
my first box

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4814.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4817.jpg

dleccord
10-21-2007, 01:22 AM
....No.

To threadstarter: stop worrying about it. You honestly haven't seen bad box construction until you've seen my first speakers (which I know someone will graciously post pictures of LOL). To make straight cuts easier with a circular saw, here's what I used to do:

1. Measure distance from edge of saw fence to the middle of the blade.

2. Very carefully, draw a line of that width along a piece of wood (MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT, OR IT'S USELESS).

3. Cut this piece of wood using a fence to keep it straight.

4. This piece you just cut is now a guide to a perfect cut every time. Place it at the edge of every line you draw for your panels, and it'll cut the panel to the dimension you want every time. And even it if doesn't, the maximum you can be off is 1/16" of an inch (because you measured to the middle of the blade, not the edge), which is easily correctable.

well thats how i do mines, not the best but how would you fix a gap like that w/o cutting up a new board?

PV Audio
10-21-2007, 01:48 PM
well thats how i do mines, not the best but how would you fix a gap like that w/o cutting up a new board?Titebond 2 has zero filling properties at all, and doesn't work well at all as a sealant unless it's attached to a bond. If you have a tight bond and spread woodglue across the joint to be sure, that's different. However, it it's not tightly bonded and you just throw some wood glue in there, it won't do too much of anything. Your gorilla glue is a better option, but it's disgusting to work with. I used the wood paste described earlier. It dries harder than a brick, and I've even used it to seal a 1/4" gap between port pieces (between the joint in the "L"), and it's still holding up today with no audible differences.

dleccord
10-21-2007, 02:23 PM
wood paste? is that some kinda of wood filler or saw dust + wood glue??

casper97ta
10-21-2007, 08:12 PM
Its a great idea to always keep your sawdust and mix some up with the your glue to help fill some small gaps.

audioarsonal
10-22-2007, 09:33 PM
just glue it up if it leaks apply some caulk around the inside corners .good luck

95_venger
10-23-2007, 12:33 PM
I think your problem is that you didn't account for the blade width, or you cut on the wrong side of the line.

to your question though, Im not sure that caulk or glue could fix that. better build another one to be sure.

its called a blade curf

ramos
10-23-2007, 04:17 PM
its called a blade curf

Actually it's kerf . Kerf is the width of the cut, which is sometimes wider than the blade width :)

alexdbest2000
10-27-2007, 03:46 PM
final setup

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/alexdbest2000/100_4883.jpg

GSRswapandslow
10-27-2007, 04:37 PM
why is there a black line on your rear bumper? is that stock? similar to the ukdm and jdm sir bumpers on the later ek's?

alexdbest2000
10-27-2007, 04:55 PM
i havent a clue, i bought the car thinking it was all stock.

miker
10-27-2007, 05:07 PM
I know I'm late, but. Just buy more MDF??? It's cheap, and now you know. So you could probably do the next one a bit better.

alexdbest2000
10-27-2007, 05:39 PM
I know I'm late, but. Just buy more MDF??? It's cheap, and now you know. So you could probably do the next one a bit better.

read the whole thread, i did redo it

Blove1991
10-27-2007, 06:03 PM
Vids??? Hows it sound?

miker
10-27-2007, 06:21 PM
read the whole thread, i did redo it

K sweet. I guess I DO need to read the whole thread, about some stupid box that had ****** cuts.

Sarcasm.

Hence why I put "I know I'm late but..." in my first post.

alexdbest2000
11-01-2007, 11:50 PM
Vids??? Hows it sound?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZEkdLA_FXI

filmed with a digital camera its not the greatest quality

Eugenics
11-01-2007, 11:54 PM
im just going to make my box out of legos.