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79corona
10-12-2007, 11:36 AM
I have been getting these noises since installing the new system. I'm using the factory harness to connect speakers and power. I added an extra ground for speakers to the chassis. To date, I have been unable to turn the volume up very high without getting this noise no matter what the media source. However AM seems less problematic than FM, USB and CD but still cannot turn volume beyond low listening level. :confused:

Any thoughts?

bigbang
10-12-2007, 11:55 AM
Why are your speakers grounded to the chasis? I have only seen one radio in my life which had a positive going to each speaker, then at the negatives coming back to the deck, required them to be grounded. It was a $20 radio a budy bought at advanced auto parts, I shuttered putting it in for him. It was the crappiest cassete deck in the world, didn't have a rewind button, I doubt a radio like yours with a USB port would ground the speakers to chasis!

brynm
10-12-2007, 11:58 AM
x2 your speakers shouldn't be grounded to the chassis.

jco1385
10-12-2007, 12:01 PM
what they said. what made you do that anyways?

79corona
10-12-2007, 12:15 PM
Well actually it did not change my problem, but I think you pointed out something I didn't mean to say; I meant to say I added a ground to the existing power ground connection, to another point on the chassis. The Kenwood power ground wire goes into the factory harness, and I wasn't sure if it was sufficient. Apparently it was and is not my problem.

TeddyUnited
10-12-2007, 12:18 PM
HEY, dont play your music anymore unitl you fix this or you run the risk of grounding your rca's and fring the channels of your amp.

You have a loose rca somwhere. FIND IT

79corona
10-12-2007, 12:19 PM
I'm not using the RCA's for anything.

azbass
10-12-2007, 12:21 PM
check to make sure your speakers/speaker wire are not grounded out

TeddyUnited
10-12-2007, 12:24 PM
HEY, dont play your music anymore unitl you fix this or you run the risk of grounding your rca's and fring the channels of your amp.

You have a loose rca somwhere. FIND IT

my mistake, thought you were running higher end.
in that case azbass is on point,

bigbang
10-12-2007, 12:25 PM
Uhm, one time this mexican in a van had noise when his volume got to a certain point. Turned out he used those wire twist caps for home 120V electric connection to conect his wires together. After he redid the connections with crimp connecters, the noise went away. I asked a proffesional why it made noise past the volume limit and he said because the connection was probably so bad that the current demand of the deck couldent pass through the weak connection, so the deck was starved of power and made distortion of some kind. Never really understood it myself.

jco1385
10-12-2007, 12:31 PM
had to point out that he was mexican, eh??

79corona
10-12-2007, 12:41 PM
Well, there was no wiring harness adapter for my car because of its age. So I found some narrow blade-style male crimp connectors that would slide into the factory female harness plug. For the speakers I used standard blade-style male crimp connectors to plug into the factory female harness plug and soldered the other end to the speaker terminals.

azbass
10-12-2007, 12:43 PM
if you had a dmm you can check continuity to ground among the speaker wires.. etc.

79corona
10-12-2007, 12:44 PM
I will also be changing my rear speakers from 6822cf to 6812cf, because the factory box was incorrect marked 4 ohm. However, the problem existed prior to installing these speakers.

79corona
10-12-2007, 12:45 PM
You know I have never had this problem before, and it's quite frustrating. This system may not be audiophile quality, but it isn't junk either and it should work.

bigbang
10-12-2007, 12:49 PM
He also had a mary of guadalupe' statue glued to his dash, and the word Rodriguez spelled out in fancy lettering across his winshield. Oh yeah, and a viva la mexico sticker on his bumper. LOL, just kidding. I just get fond memories of the job I had that got me into car stereos, also where I met that dude in the van. I worked at a factory which was probably 75% mexican, and everyone was into car stereos. I had been into home theater, but never thought a car could be high fidelety so it took me a while to start to appreciate it. Eventually I got into car stereos, and the great thing besides being able to talk to everyone about them, and everyone trying to out do one another in the parking lot, was all the great deals I got buying stuff from all the guys.

TeddyUnited
10-12-2007, 12:50 PM
dude, AZBASS told you what to do, do it. he is on point.

79corona
10-12-2007, 01:13 PM
I will DUDE, I was just explaining my connections. Thanks.

kross
10-12-2007, 04:37 PM
Well, there was no wiring harness adapter for my car because of its age. So I found some narrow blade-style male crimp connectors that would slide into the factory female harness plug. For the speakers I used standard blade-style male crimp connectors to plug into the factory female harness plug and soldered the other end to the speaker terminals.

This sounds like your problem. Sounds like they aren't making good solid contact in the harness.

mikey7182
10-14-2007, 09:50 PM
I've had this issue before (long time ago) and it turned out to be a grounding issue. I'd go through and eliminate one possibility at a time. First, change the location of your chassis ground from your deck to your car instead of plugging into the factory ground (if you haven't already). Even if you have, try a new spot and make sure to sand the hell out of it to get bare metal exposed. If that doesn't fix it, try azbass's suggestion. That is more along the lines of what my problem was. A speaker lead had caught on the metal when I ran it through the door and it was grounding out. It sounded fine at low volumes for whatever reason but as soon as I'd crank it, it would short and crackle in and out. Something is grounded somewhere. Trace all your speaker wires back and if you haven't already done so, run fresh wires straight from your deck to your speakers. Don't tap into anything factory. That will eliminate room for error.

Mike

79corona
10-15-2007, 09:45 AM
Thanks, I'll check it. However, factory wiring is not a bad thing by definition. Thanks.

79corona
10-15-2007, 11:57 AM
I just spoke with Kenwood, and they think it is a problem with the HU, not speakers or wiring.

mikey7182
10-15-2007, 12:12 PM
Thanks, I'll check it. However, factory wiring is not a bad thing by definition. Thanks.

I know... you just mentioned you had an older car, and wiring tends to deteriorate over time, so I figured that would rule that out. I tap into my stock wiring harness for power and ground for my deck in every car typically ;)

79corona
10-15-2007, 12:27 PM
It's an older car, but not ancient. ;) Of course, I had to replace all the cotton insulation and porcelain connectors......

thefunkybunch
10-15-2007, 11:00 PM
make a better battery to chassis ground. i've also seen spark plug wires cause strange noises. check to make sure your alternator's voltage regulator isn't bad. i've had a customer with a 75 or something ford ranger that the regulator took a dump and the alt was making between 16 and 17 volts and was causing some strrrrraaaaaange issues with the system. once we figured out that the voltage was that high, fixed the problem and it's been perfect ever since. also you could try taking a test piece of wire and grounding the deck directly to the battery (just run it out through the door and clamp it on the battery temporarily).

79corona
10-16-2007, 08:24 PM
The starter is new, the alternator is new, the battery is grounded through the engine and there are grounding straps to the body from the engine. The ground wire of the unit is attached to the ground in the car's wiring harness and also to the chassis.

thefunkybunch
10-17-2007, 09:39 PM
so let me see if i'm reading this right... the battery negative cable goes to the engine block, and from the engine there are ground straps going to the chassis? this reads as if there is no direct connection between the battery to chassis... try taking a piece of 4awg (or larger) wire and running it directly from the battery negative terminal to a point on the chassis (strip the paint off well and through bolt it). if i am reading your post correctly, i'd bet this will help considerably, because there's no way you can get a good ground running from the chassis to the engine to get to the battery.

79corona
10-18-2007, 08:03 AM
Sorry, there is also a smaller wire at the battery post going to the body. ;)