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View Full Version : bolting a sub into the enclosure?



Lil Poot
10-10-2007, 10:31 PM
when mounting a really heavy sub i know it's common to use bolts rather than screws. i was just wondering exactly what type of bolts/nuts are used? i imagine the nuts will dig into the wood to keep from twisting? anyone have any pictures of how they went about bolting a sub into an enclosure?

hoxie08
10-10-2007, 10:34 PM
i think they are called t-nuts. something to that effect.

Snaggle Baggle
10-10-2007, 10:35 PM
i dont know how they do it but with the guy who builds my boxes he uses hex head bolts or whatever u call them....so if someone brings just a screwdriver or plyers they arn't gonna be jacking any of your stuff unless they rip it out ...gonna need an allen wrench

Fear Of Theive
10-10-2007, 10:37 PM
chese what the hell are you bolting down? someone break into ur explorer?

Tinker
10-10-2007, 10:37 PM
Check these out

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-778

Snaggle Baggle
10-10-2007, 10:38 PM
Check these out

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-778

yeah thats what you need

CrazedCat
10-10-2007, 10:41 PM
t-nuts, threaded inserts, or security screws

dB-SPL
10-10-2007, 10:41 PM
Threaded wood inserts > T-nuts. :)

-Bill-

Lil Poot
10-10-2007, 10:44 PM
chese what the hell are you bolting down? someone break into ur explorer?

i'm using bolts to hold the sub in the enclosure rather than screws. it weighs around 60 pounds and i'm not sure i want to trust a wood screw's threads to hold that horizontally.

i'm also drilling 2 holes in my chassis and bolting the enclosure itself to the truck.

thanks for the quick replies everyone.

CrazedCat
10-10-2007, 10:44 PM
Threaded wood inserts > T-nuts. :)

-Bill-

I agree. The teeth on t-nuts tend to bend or break off and when they do and the bolt is threaded in it GOOD LUCK ever getting it out. SPIN SPIN SUGAR.

dB-SPL
10-10-2007, 10:47 PM
I agree. The teeth on t-nuts tend to bend or break off and when they do and the bolt is threaded in it GOOD LUCK ever getting it out. SPIN SPIN SUGAR.

I just couldn't ever get the ****ed things to stay for any period of time. Then, as you said, getting them out is a project of it's own.

-Bill-

Snaggle Baggle
10-10-2007, 10:47 PM
bracing it to the truck is a great idea....fear of theive did it actually...and yeah dont trust the screws....they will rip your box apart

Anotherguy
10-10-2007, 10:48 PM
The best things i have used are called hurricane nuts. They sell them at parts express as well.

MadAudio
10-11-2007, 12:00 AM
I agree. The teeth on t-nuts tend to bend or break off and when they do and the bolt is threaded in it GOOD LUCK ever getting it out. SPIN SPIN SUGAR.
this is so true i have like three t-nuts on 2 subs that spin and I've been dreading removing them so far I'm thinking my dremel using the wand/snake attachment and a cutting disk might get the job done without much damage.

Lil Poot
10-11-2007, 12:00 AM
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1096

is this what you mean by a threaded wood insert?

Lil Poot
10-11-2007, 12:04 AM
i couldnt find any 1/4-20 allen bolts at parts express. going to need 1-3/4 or longer since its double baffled. shouldnt be hard to find somewhere like lowe's right?

CrazedCat
10-11-2007, 12:06 AM
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=362

Lil Poot
10-11-2007, 12:07 AM
so it threads into the wood? can't really tell from the picture, but how beefy are the threads? threads in wood is kind of what i'm trying to get away from going with the bolt.

Anotherguy
10-11-2007, 12:08 AM
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1082

I like these. They dont tare up the wood like t nuts do.

CrazedCat
10-11-2007, 12:09 AM
Ace hardware carries them as well. They also have ones that are screwed into the wood with an allen wrench so you can countersink it deep into the wood.

1/4 x 20 is a fairly thick bolt...probably won't fit through your sub's mounting holes.

You're probably gonna have to go with an 8-32 or maybe a 10-24

mlstrass
10-11-2007, 02:16 AM
Double baffle with the inside piece being baltic birch or any "real" wood gives the screws more to bite into than MDF. Same when using "t" nuts. Seen plenty of HT boxes with a piece of plywood behind the baffle to give them more bite.

IgnoreMe
10-11-2007, 02:22 AM
Double baffle with the inside piece being baltic birch or any "real" wood gives the screws more to bite into than MDF. Same when using "t" nuts. Seen plenty of HT boxes with a piece of plywood behind the baffle to give them more bite.

haha well i guess luck worked for me. i thought i assed out because i used a scrap peice of 3/4" birch that i got for $5 for my front baffle because i didnt want to buy a whole new sheet of mdf.

does ace carry the "hurricane nuts"

Flipx99
10-11-2007, 02:28 AM
I bolt the subs to the baffle before assembly...I am sol if I need to remove the sub for any reason. Good thing for aeroports, I just stick my arm in their with a ratchet.

I use 1/4 cap head screws with a lock nut....double baffle...it isn't going anywhere.

IgnoreMe
10-11-2007, 03:22 AM
I bolt the subs to the baffle before assembly...I am sol if I need to remove the sub for any reason. Good thing for aeroports, I just stick my arm in their with a ratchet.

I use 1/4 cap head screws with a lock nut....double baffle...it isn't going anywhere.

ive thought about that before. but the risk outweighs the reward IMO

xtremebassjunky
10-11-2007, 03:26 AM
I liked threaded inserts with my old ssx...

IgnoreMe
10-11-2007, 03:33 AM
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=362

^^^ like that?

im having a hard time grasping what actually holds the sub down. trying to mount a 65lb or so BTL lol

Lil Poot
10-11-2007, 11:33 AM
box is going to be built out of trupan. this is how the port and sub are oriented, so getting behind the sub isnt going to be an option, will have to drill the bolt holes using the sub as a template, then mount whatever i go with for threads before putting the sub in.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6702/securedownload6af2.png

bjfish11
10-11-2007, 11:42 AM
Those threaded inserts are the way to go...
I used them on this build: http://www.caraudiojunkyard.com/forum/fisher-customs/2040-interchangable-port-box-round-2-a.html

They work great.


BTW, that design looks kind of familiar ;)

spoonraker
10-11-2007, 12:16 PM
What wrong with screws? I know for a fact people have screwed down fully loaded 18'' BTLs before with no problem.

IgnoreMe
10-11-2007, 12:36 PM
What wrong with screws? I know for a fact people have screwed down fully loaded 18'' BTLs before with no problem.

because when i screwed down my 12" mag with screws and i hit a nice size dip in the road (underestimated it, the sign said DIP but i just kept rolling) and my car bounced pretty good....my magnum was in my cargo area with screws still attached, stripped from the box lol

although, my friend has had his 15" XXX the same way, and its just as, if not more, heavy than my btl.

i guess its just a precaution, although mine comes more so from the experience i had with the mag.

spoonraker
10-11-2007, 01:51 PM
I'm guessing your going to do at least a double baffle with a BTL.

Just buy some long screws with large threads. I can see how a single baffle could get stripped, or even a double baffle with the wrong screws, but if you have 8 screws a couple inches deep in wood I don't think any sub is going to move

Immacomputer
10-11-2007, 02:09 PM
I agree. The teeth on t-nuts tend to bend or break off and when they do and the bolt is threaded in it GOOD LUCK ever getting it out. SPIN SPIN SUGAR.

I'll never use T-nuts again because of this. I had two break while I was screwing the bolt in and no, it was not miss-threaded. I had to use a jigsaw to cut the sub out of the enclosure. It was ****ing lame.

Lil Poot
10-11-2007, 07:07 PM
ok so after looking at some bolt sizes, and whats available for threaded inserts, i dont really think any but an m8-32 is going to fit through my sub's mounting holes. does this sound about right?

also, does anyone know where i can find some security wood screws with a funny key bit to remove them, for mounting my amps?

bjfish11
10-11-2007, 07:24 PM
Just FYI Shaun, I have 8 1-4 20 threaded inserts at the shop. Then all you will need to do is pickup some bolts to fit. Just let me know.

Lil Poot
10-11-2007, 07:28 PM
sounds good, thanks man :)

by the way, i saw a truck over by the lowe's at ridge and maple in wichita, said fisher lumber company garden plains, is that you?

bjfish11
10-11-2007, 09:51 PM
Your box is finished... Ill get a work log up here in a few, pics are uploading.


Fisher Lumber is owned by my great uncle. He has since retired, but it has stayed in the family. My dad has been there almost 30 years, and yesterday was actually my last day, LOL. I just got on over at Spirit Aerosystems....

Fisher Lumber is building a 12,000 sq ft showroom over there by Lowes, just south actually. So their trucks are around there a lot.


Ill be sending you a pm shortly as well, so we can arrange pick-up for your box.

Lil Poot
10-11-2007, 11:13 PM
no kidding, i'm trying to get on at spirit as well. seems like they're hiring an awful lot of people, i have an application in there, as well as at cessna, learjet and hawker. my dads management at lear so he put in the good word there, but they don't usually hire people without aviation experience.

CrazedCat
10-12-2007, 08:24 AM
Yeah from BJ's link...this is what you want to do:

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u282/bjfish11/PoloCarrillo026.jpg

bjfish11
10-12-2007, 06:21 PM
^^^ Those are it.

jco1385
10-12-2007, 06:23 PM
i use torx head screws x8 (t25)

Lil Poot
10-12-2007, 10:05 PM
i put mine about 1/2 way through the double baffle. the only 1/4-20 bolts i could find with an allen head (those thieving bastards run around with power drills with phillips head bits, might as well go with the allens) only had threads on about 2/3 of the bolt so mounting it flush with the outside of the box wouldn't work. don't see why it would make much difference either way.

and actually, the mounting holes in my sub were just a hair to small to put a 1/4-20 bolt through. a 1/4 inch drill bit solved that in no time flat :D

should get the box bolted to the truck tomorrow, swap the iraggi alt and my second battery back in, then i'm just waiting for my vr2000d to get back, which should be about a week.

IgnoreMe
10-13-2007, 12:18 AM
cant wait to see some videos!

Lil Poot
10-13-2007, 12:24 AM
cant wait to have some low end again... i've been without bass since i blew up the vfl 200.1 about 4 months ago. i REALLY doubt it's going to be as loud or visually (flex i mean) impressive as the bl's were, but it should sound a whole lot better. those bl's just didnt do it for me on my normal listening content.

a ported 18 with around 3kw on it should make a little bit of noise though, even in an sq box. told pete i wanted as flat a response as possible, he said there should be a bit of a peak around 40 hz, but flat from there up to 80. i imagine i sacrificed a good deal of output doing this, being that xxx's are known to drop off over 60 hz.

electropro
10-13-2007, 01:47 AM
Ace hardware carries them as well. They also have ones that are screwed into the wood with an allen wrench so you can countersink it deep into the wood.

1/4 x 20 is a fairly thick bolt...probably won't fit through your sub's mounting holes.

You're probably gonna have to go with an 8-32 or maybe a 10-24


Ace Hardware FTMFW...

I am particular to the brass ones in a 10-24 configuration...

8 10-24's and your sub goes nowhere!:cool:

Regular screws do/will vibrate loose over time I assure you:crap:

And again Ace FTMFW...the local has a pretty extensive fastener/bolt selection