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30mm
09-17-2007, 04:34 PM
is there that huge of a difference? i have some pretty crappy speakers in my car right now and i'm a bit on a budget system so would i be fine with coax speakers? or should just **** it up and buy the comps?

DejaWiz
09-17-2007, 04:55 PM
What kind of HU?
What kind of amp?
What kind of vehicle?
Factory tweeters or locations?

30mm
09-18-2007, 12:21 AM
right now i'm in the process of picking out a system so the hu and amps are still undecided. i haven't gotten much help from people on here so far so it's been a bit difficult to get some answers as i am new to all of this.

i can tell you that it is an 87 sedan accord with everything stock. tells you how much my sound *****. so with that said no locations for tweaters. i would have to pre fab holes

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 12:30 AM
Alrighty, then it sounds like component speakers are the way to go then if you are willing to cut some mounting holes.

Yes, there will be an imaging advantage with components.

What are your budgets for:
1. HU
2. Front Speakers
3. Amp
4. Sub

alphakenny1
09-18-2007, 12:39 AM
read the sticky above

30mm
09-18-2007, 12:44 AM
for everything and i mean everything. i'm looking to spend about 800- 1000. i want to do the install myself, i'm more of a diy kind of guy. all i'm really looking for in this system is clearness, a sub that hits pretty nice, and an hu with ipod interface.

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 10:26 AM
Cool.

HU: $222 shipped
DEH-P690UB (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18335) (get this Premier version since the iPod cable comes with it, and not the standard 6900UB since it will be a separate purchase)

FRONTS: $175 shipped
Cerwin Vega V-Max 65 (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18508) (these are convertible comps and can also be used as coaxs)

SUB: $119 shipped
Cerwin Vega V-Max 10.4 (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16862)

COMP AMP: $130 + shipping
Kicker KX450.2 (http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2599048/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046/order/asc/order_by/title)

SUB AMP: $135 + shipping
Kicker KX600.1 (http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/2598630/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046/order/asc/order_by/title)

WIRING: $75-125
www.knukonceptz.com (http://www.knukonceptz.com)

SUB BOX: $20-50
materials from local lumber/home improvement store

TOTAL: $960


(this is strictly a recommendation and can be altered to your tastes/liking)

Gary S
09-18-2007, 01:21 PM
That would be a super system for the money. If you keep making posts like that, I won't need to post anymore.

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 01:27 PM
That would be a super system for the money. If you keep making posts like that, I won't need to post anymore.

Oh c'mon now... your input is valued. ;)

jmanpc
09-18-2007, 01:42 PM
Head Unit: Eclipse CD3100 (Comes with install accessories) $200 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/ECLIPSE-CD3100-CD-MP3-CAR-STEREO-PLAYER-SIRIUS-BONUS_W0QQitemZ300150501799QQihZ020QQcategoryZ1879 8QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

or

Alpine CDA-9857
http://cgi.ebay.com/CDA-9857-Alpine-CD-Full-Speed-iPOD-satellite-ready_W0QQitemZ120161650158QQihZ002QQcategoryZ3975 0QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Front Speakers: MB Quart PCE 216 $170 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brand-New-MB-Quart-PCE-216-Component-Speakers-package_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38646QQihZ009QQ itemZ190152286862QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Subwoofer: MB Quart RWE 302 $120 Shipped
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3415

Speaker Amp: MB Quart PAB2100 $160 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-New-Pab2100-MB-Quart-PAB-2100-2Channel-Amplifier_W0QQitemZ270167256311QQihZ017QQcategoryZ 39732QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Sub Amp: MB Quart RAB 1450 $185 shipped
http://cgi.ebay.com/MB-QUART-RAB-1450-MONOBLOCK-AMPLIFIER-MONO-AMP-RAB1450_W0QQitemZ300151670169QQihZ020QQcategoryZ64 570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That's all $835, so that leaves you $165 for wiring and an enclosure... more than plenty. It'd be an awesome SQ system, too :)

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 01:50 PM
^ very decent setup, jman

genxx
09-18-2007, 02:19 PM
HU-Clarion DXZ775USB $215 shipped
Front-PG RSd $95.00
Cadence TXA-3002-$129.99
Sub-PG RSd 12" $114 or TC-Sounds TC-1000 10" $169.00 shipped or TC-2000 12" $249 shipped
SUB AMP-TXA-500HC-$179.00 shipped or TXA-1000D $199.00 shipped

SO we have three here is the price break down:
Using PG RSd SUB $732 leaving $268 for install
Using TC-1000 10" $787 leaving $221 for install
Using TC-2000 12" and TXA-1000D $887 leaving $121 for install

links:
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=125
http://www.tcsounds.com/products.htm
http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-RSd12d-12-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER-RSd-12d-07_W0QQitemZ170149008715QQihZ007QQcategoryZ18803QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/PHOENIX-GOLD-RSd-65cs-6-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-RSd65cs-07_W0QQitemZ170150700106QQihZ007QQcategoryZ32819QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/CLARION-DXZ775USB-CAR-RADIO-CD-PLAYER-STEREO-RECEIVER_W0QQitemZ180157652354QQihZ008QQcategoryZ5 0558QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

tbasile1
09-18-2007, 02:27 PM
These are 3 great system recommendations!!

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 02:28 PM
Cadence TXA-3002-$129.99

SUB AMP-TXA-500HC-$179.00 shipped or TXA-1000D $199.00 shipped


Or save even more money and get the TXA-6004 for $179 (http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=125&idproduct=385), which does 4x150w @ 4 ohms or 2x600w @ 4 ohm bridged. Could run the comps off 2 channels stereo and the sub off the other 2 channels bridged.

Out of those 3 subs, I'd go with the RSd12 in a sealed box. :yumyum:

genxx
09-18-2007, 02:33 PM
**** good point DejaWiz. You just saved the guy another $129.00 bucks.

Thats knocks option one down to $603.00 shipped.

Good lookin' out DejaWiz.

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 02:41 PM
That 6004 is one big sumbich.

25" x 11" x 2.12"

30mm
09-18-2007, 04:22 PM
how about this one?

hu- alpine cda-9885
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17996

speakers- pg rsd
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17542

sub- alpine type r 1242d
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14954

amp- txa-6004
http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=125&idproduct=385

wire- knukonceptz

it all adds up to 720. does it look pretty good?

and one question, i want rear speakers in my car also could i just get a set of coaxils to go in the back and just power them of the deck? or should i just buy comps and another amp

tbasile1
09-18-2007, 04:24 PM
Thats not enuff power for the Type R


and forget rears

30mm
09-18-2007, 04:30 PM
600 watts isnt enough?

and why forget the rears?

jmanpc
09-18-2007, 04:36 PM
Rears aren't necessary, but it's fine to put them in the back off deck power. Ideally, you shouldnt be able to hear them up front.

And Type R's are power hungry.

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 04:37 PM
The Type R will work decently off 600w rms, but yeah, the majority of comments I read here is that they work much better off 800-1200w rms as Tbayz and Jman hinted at.

Try it without rear speakers first so you can get a feel for strong front soundstaging and imaging. If you feel you want rears after a couple/few weeks, then worry about throwing some coaxes off HU power back there.

tbasile1
09-18-2007, 04:39 PM
Im not saying its not going to push the Type R, im just saying that it can take more power, sorry I didnt word that right the first time, it will get loud tho, and you'll be satisfied

All in all, the system you put together would be :yumyum:

jmanpc
09-18-2007, 04:41 PM
I'd still hit the MBQ system. I would sound sweeeeet :)

<-- MBQ *****

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 04:42 PM
Im not saying its not going to push the Type R, im just saying that it can take more power, sorry I didnt word that right the first time, it will get loud tho, and you'll be satisfied

sorry, didn't mean to imply that... i was just reaffirming that you and jman were right about the type r's lust for power.

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 04:43 PM
MBQ *****

Don't you have that tattooed on your butt cheek? :crazy:

30mm
09-18-2007, 06:34 PM
hahaha. is there maybe a better sub that would work off that amp for about the same price? remember i'm looking for something that can hit pretty hard. not like blow your ear drums out but i want to be able to feel it rattle my chest =]

with the system that i mentioned above i shouldn't have to do anything extra besides cutting the holes for the tweaters right(thinking about just getting kickpanels)? my car should be able to power it all?

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 06:45 PM
Do you care about musical clarity in the sub stage or do you just want some bump?

30mm
09-18-2007, 06:53 PM
i defientaly care about sq. there's no point in bumping a sub if it sounds like sh*t.

am i in a situation to where i have to pick one or the other because of my budget?

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 06:57 PM
Oh not at all! I was just trying to gauge what you were after so I could make some recommendations.

more to follow....

30mm
09-18-2007, 06:58 PM
please do, i want something that i can feel pretty good. but it has to be clean sounding.

tbasile1
09-18-2007, 07:02 PM
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8597_Focal+33v1.html

Just browsing on Sonicelectronix, ive actually heard Focal subs, and they are super :yumyum:

But there is ALOT of choices out there, ALOT!!!!!!!!!

DejaWiz
09-18-2007, 07:16 PM
Fi SSD12 (https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=1546f05b18a2ea5/shopdata/0030_SSD/product_overview.shopscript) Dual 2 ohm

Polk Momo12 (http://sonicelectronix.com/item_7096_Polk+Audio+MOMO+MM2124.html)

The Cerwin V-Max I mentioned before.

30mm
09-18-2007, 08:45 PM
well i've pretty much made my mind up!

hu- the alpine
speakers- the phoenix golds
amp- the txa
sub- the cerwin

will this system be pretty loud and clear and just all around b*tchin?

oh and where do you think i can find the best prices for this equpitment online?

also what else am i going to need for this instalation...like cables and anything else extra

tbasile1
09-18-2007, 09:05 PM
Sonicelectronix always has good prices

eBay, if you dont mind buying from them(PGs are like $90 on there)

OnlineCarStereo sells the PGs as well, for $129 shipped

genxx
09-19-2007, 03:45 AM
Buy the TXA directly from Cadence. PG I would go Ebay. Not sure about the other stuff.

DejaWiz
09-19-2007, 09:49 AM
check prices at onlinecarstereo.com

Gary S
09-19-2007, 03:05 PM
That would be a great system, but I would upgrade the comps.... either Orion HCCA 6.2 from ikesound ebay store for $129, or Cerwin Vega V-Max-65 from online car stereo, or PPI 356cs from ebay or ikesound.

30mm
09-19-2007, 04:32 PM
what's wrong with the pg comps?

DejaWiz
09-19-2007, 04:39 PM
Nothing.

tbasile1
09-19-2007, 06:32 PM
either Orion HCCA 6.2

Ive heard the C2 series comps a few times, and wasnt too impressed

They had really nice midbass, but not the greatest highs, tweeter could be a bit brighter, but all in all it was an okay set, and NO WAY I would pay retail for these, on Orions site they list em for $270, $hit I would never buy these comps at retail, who pays retails prices anyways LOL

How much better are the HCCA comps?

and How do the PPI speakers compare to the Orions, I know they are both Directed, but the sound may differ, you always suggest those PPIs, so Id like to kno what you think about em

30mm
09-19-2007, 07:53 PM
what am i going to need for the instalation? all i know is are cables...don't know what kind...and the hu mounting bracket.

is it hard to tune a system and build a sub box?

Gary S
09-19-2007, 08:49 PM
Ive heard the C2 series comps a few times, and wasnt too impressed

They had really nice midbass, but not the greatest highs, tweeter could be a bit brighter, but all in all it was an okay set, and NO WAY I would pay retail for these, on Orions site they list em for $270, $hit I would never buy these comps at retail, who pays retails prices anyways LOL

How much better are the HCCA comps?

and How do the PPI speakers compare to the Orions, I know they are both Directed, but the sound may differ, you always suggest those PPIs, so Id like to kno what you think about em



- The Orion C2 series is an economy set, you really can't compare those.

The PPI 356cs is currently Directed's top of the line... ccaw voice coil, latest generation foam/mineral sandwich cone like the Image Dynamics XS series and Diamond D7, and a special non-reflective basket. They are designed to compete with or beat speakers like the Focal K series and the Polk SR. One big difference though, the PPI is sold at a fair price. There are lots of good speakers out there, but many are over-priced.

The Orion HCCA 6.2 has basically the same tweeter and sophisticated xover as the PPI set, but it has a more basic paper cone and dust cap and trades a little detail and off-axis response for more midbass. And the Orion's are even less money. They are a lot of speaker for the dollar.

I believe component speakers are the most important major piece of audio equipment you can put in a car, and that's where I spend my money first... but I also know it's possible to make top of the line speakers for around $250 or less, especially where almost all of them are being made these days, in China. So, I won't give them any more than that. I've been in the industry for a long time and it's tough to fool me.

tbasile1
09-19-2007, 08:53 PM
Thanks for that review Gary, I wish the local shop that carries Directed had PPI comps on display, or some HCCAs, maybe ill stop in there one of these days to see if they do, havent been there ina few months

Those PPIs sure do look :yumyum:

I still think Directed makes a decent product eventhough Orion etc.. isnt what it used to be

kross
09-20-2007, 12:30 AM
If you're thinking about bridging the rear two channels of that amp for the sub, you'll need to get a 2-ohm DVC version of the sub, not the dual 4-ohm that was linked. A dual 4-ohm can only be wired to 2-ohms or 8-ohms, neither of which is what you want. A dual 2-ohm sub can be wired to 1 ohm or 4 ohms.

30mm
09-20-2007, 03:20 AM
what's the difference between a 4 ohms sub and a 2 ohms sub?

DejaWiz
09-20-2007, 09:24 AM
what's the difference between a 4 ohms sub and a 2 ohms sub?

It's the way the voice coils are wound at the factory.

A 4 ohm single voice coil sub will present an amp with a 4 ohm load (http://www.cardomain.com/shop/wooferwizard.pl?num_of_subs=1&impedance_of_subs=4&#37;20ohms).

A 2 ohm single voice coil sub will present an amp with a 2 ohm load (http://www.cardomain.com/shop/wooferwizard.pl?num_of_subs=1&impedance_of_subs=2ohm_svc&x=94&y=11).

A 4 ohm dual voice coil sub will present an amp with a 2 ohm load (http://www.cardomain.com/shop/wooferwizard.pl?num_of_subs=1&impedance_of_subs=4ohm_dvc&x=131&y=13) (coils wired in parallel) or an 8 ohm load (coils wired in series).

A 2 ohm dual voice coil sub will present an amp with a 1 ohm load (http://www.cardomain.com/shop/wooferwizard.pl?num_of_subs=1&impedance_of_subs=2ohm_dvc&x=125&y=6) (coils wired in parallel) or an 4 ohm load (coils wired in series).

30mm
09-20-2007, 01:40 PM
i'm guessing the dual 2 ohms is the best? and i've been kind of confused about amps.

600 watts, 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 Ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
4 Ohms Bridged: 300 watts x 2 chan.

if it's a 600 watt amp...then why is there only a total of 400 watts when you use 4 chanels with the 4 ohms, but when you use 2 ohms it adds up to 600?

and why if you were to bridge the chanels it would add up to 600watts at 4 ohms when previously 4 chanels at 4 ohms only added up to 400?

DejaWiz
09-20-2007, 03:34 PM
I'm guessing the dual 2 ohms is the best? and I've been kind of confused about amps.

600 watts, 4-Channel Amplifier
RMS Power Output:
4 Ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan.
2 Ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
4 Ohms Bridged: 300 watts x 2 chan.

If it's a 600 watt amp...then why is there only a total of 400 watts when you use 4 channels with the 4 ohms, but when you use 2 ohms it adds up to 600?

And why if you were to bridge the channels it would add up to 600watts at 4 ohms when previously 4 channels at 4 ohms only added up to 400?

Most amps (not all, as there are some exceptions), output less power at 4 ohms then 2 ohms.

Per Ohm's law, higher resistance results in less power, since the power supply in an amplifier can only draw so much current from the vehicle's electrical system and is subject to inefficiencies (only a 50% increase in power with a 2 ohm load versus a 4 ohm load).

However, when you bridge a pair of channels with a 4 ohms load, the amplifier will output more power than it will at 4 channels with 4 ohms because the output voltage has increased to what it would be at 4 channels with 2 ohms.


100W at 4 Ohms:
SQRT(Watts*Ohms) = Output Voltage
...SQRT(100*4) = 20 Volts per channel

Volts / Ohms = AMPS
...20 / 4 = 5A per channel (4 channels = 20A total)


150W at 2 Ohms:
SQRT(Watts*Ohms) = Output Voltage
...SQRT(150*2) = 17.32 Volts per channel

Volts / Ohms = AMPS
...17.32 / 2 = 8.66A per channel (4 channels = 34.64A total)


300W at 4 ohms, Bridged:
Output Voltage = SQRT(Watts*Ohms)...SQRT(300*4) = 34.64 Volts per channel

Volts / Ohms = AMPS
...34.64 / 4 = 8.66A per channel (2 channels = 17.32A total)


See the similarity in Amperage between four channels at 2 ohms and two channels at 4 ohms bridged? Also note that the voltage is exactly double when the channels are bridged with a 4 ohm load present then with 2 ohms and 4 channels.

30mm
09-20-2007, 06:08 PM
oohhh i see

migueldeluna
09-20-2007, 08:39 PM
Question... how come no one ever helps me this much...

this *****..

dam you dejawiz!

audiolife
09-20-2007, 08:50 PM
is your car a stick or auto?

tbasile1
09-20-2007, 08:50 PM
The Wiz lives here on this speaker forum, whats your question?

30mm
09-21-2007, 12:44 AM
haha trust me...it took a while to get people to help me out man.

it's an auto, why?

would those pg be good for alot of midbass. that's what i'm looking for most in this system. if they aren't what are some good ones in about the 150 range?

kross
09-21-2007, 01:01 AM
My guess is he wants to know if it's an auto or manual, so he can recommend something with kick pods if it's an auto.

30mm
09-21-2007, 01:11 AM
oh for sure. i would much rather buy kickpanels then have to pre fab a hole.

DejaWiz
09-21-2007, 09:42 AM
Yes, the RSd65cs's will be good for mid-bass as long as you can give them 2x120-160w of clean power.

audiolife
09-21-2007, 09:42 AM
oh for sure. i would much rather buy kickpanels then have to pre fab a hole.

buy or make kicks. if you go that route i would stay coaxial mounted component. makes it very simple and the end result is hard to beat. i run my syncs this way and the sound stage does nothing bad as to where you shut your eyes and listen there is no way you would think you were in a vehicle. those older hondas were really sweet for that as well. in fact i had a teammate that did that very thing and netted a top 5 at iasca world finals when there used to be ALOT of cars out there in every class.

30mm
09-21-2007, 03:54 PM
how could i mount them coax?

DejaWiz
09-21-2007, 03:55 PM
That just means mounting both the mid and tweeter in the kick.

30mm
09-21-2007, 04:01 PM
oh. hey dejawiz, can i pm you and get a little extra more exact help?

DejaWiz
09-21-2007, 04:58 PM
Certainly. I'll answer your questions if I can.

northjmp
09-22-2007, 12:59 AM
todd From north dakota
this is my subwoofer in my car.running 450 watts rms to it.all i can say is wow.totally insane.hits harder than most 12" subs do.a little overkill for what i wanted but hey i can always turn it down.absolutely wicked looking sub too.when online posts pictures youl see what i mean.also a technical note this bad boy handles 600watts rms.so i suggest you run atleast 350 watts rms to it. no one found this funny

DejaWiz
09-22-2007, 01:21 AM
umm, what?

audiolife
09-22-2007, 01:23 AM
That just means mounting both the mid and tweeter in the kick.

no i mean coax. boston, memphis(center dust cap is a removable tweeter), image dynamics, cdt plus many others make/made speakers like this.

DejaWiz
09-22-2007, 01:28 AM
no i mean coax. boston, memphis(center dust cap is a removable tweeter), image dynamics, cdt plus many others make/made speakers like this.

Oh I gotcha now. I know exactly what you are referring to.

But you know, I never really understood that. I mean, the versatility is definitely there and all, but why spend money on separates if the tweeters are to be mounted on the phase plugs like that? Might as well just buy some coaxs. :crazy:

30mm
09-22-2007, 04:04 AM
todd From north dakota
this is my subwoofer in my car.running 450 watts rms to it.all i can say is wow.totally insane.hits harder than most 12" subs do.a little overkill for what i wanted but hey i can always turn it down.absolutely wicked looking sub too.when online posts pictures youl see what i mean.also a technical note this bad boy handles 600watts rms.so i suggest you run atleast 350 watts rms to it. no one found this funny

you're talking about the cerwin vega right? and if you are, that's exactly what i wanted to hear about this sub!!!!

audiolife
09-22-2007, 08:04 AM
Oh I gotcha now. I know exactly what you are referring to.

But you know, I never really understood that. I mean, the versatility is definitely there and all, but why spend money on separates if the tweeters are to be mounted on the phase plugs like that? Might as well just buy some coaxs. :crazy:

crossovers and the actuall speakers are far better in those sets vs regular coax. the fewer source points that you have the better off you are. look into the theory of superposition. its one of the same reasons people like using horns. if you are going into your doors people usually use a seperately mounted tweeter to lesson the image/stage problems of going into the door/dash. going into the kicks centers both the left and right speakers to the point all you need to do is aim the coax.

DejaWiz
09-22-2007, 11:49 AM
crossovers and the actuall speakers are far better in those sets vs regular coax. the fewer source points that you have the better off you are. look into the theory of superposition. its one of the same reasons people like using horns. if you are going into your doors people usually use a seperately mounted tweeter to lesson the image/stage problems of going into the door/dash. going into the kicks centers both the left and right speakers to the point all you need to do is aim the coax.

Yeah, I know what you're saying. It's just that I'm not a fan of kicks. :laugh:

Gary S
09-22-2007, 02:13 PM
Yeah, I know what you're saying. It's just that I'm not a fan of kicks. :laugh:

- Say it's not so. You don't know what you are missing if you have never tried kicks.

The point source theory is bunk. Even if the tweeter is located in the middle of the voice coil of the midbass driver, the passive crossover in most cases will make the drivers out of phase.

Anyway, as long as you keep the tweeter close to the mid, or keep the driver distance ratios to listener close, all that is needed is the tweeter attenuator to match levels.

I forget what the speaker designers usually recommend for maximum tweeter mounting distance from the mid, but I'm betting that as long as you stay close to or less than inter-aural spacing, around 7 inches or less, and just match levels, anything else is probably overkill.

audiolife
09-22-2007, 07:48 PM
- Say it's not so. You don't know what you are missing if you have never tried kicks.

The point source theory is bunk. Even if the tweeter is located in the middle of the voice coil of the midbass driver, the passive crossover in most cases will make the drivers out of phase.

Anyway, as long as you keep the tweeter close to the mid, or keep the driver distance ratios to listener close, all that is needed is the tweeter attenuator to match levels.

I forget what the speaker designers usually recommend for maximum tweeter mounting distance from the mid, but I'm betting that as long as you stay close to or less than inter-aural spacing, around 7 inches or less, and just match levels, anything else is probably overkill.

lol bunk? i would rather do it this way than mounting a tweeter anywhere. not saying its the end all be all but its far more simple than mounting the tweeter up by the firewall or down in front of the mid bass driver. with the coax you KNOW what you have. start listening to staging and imaging tracks with poor locations and all of the sudden the sound stage starts taking limited shapes which imo totally defeats the kick panel purpose. its also pretty funny getting people with 600-1450 dollar speakers sets up front switching to a ~$200 and being as happy or happier with a more simple set up.:laugh: