New alarm install questions...

[bubbagumper6]

Ok I went through my alarm's install guide and marked all the wires that I had no problem with, I knew where they went. Here's everything else :)

1. Trunk Trigger Input - I'm pretty sure this is to monitor the light in the trunk, but here is what the description says. "Inputs shorter than .8 seconds will trigger the warn away response, while inputs longer than .8 seconds will trigger the full alarm sequence. If installing an optional directed electronics dual stage sensor, connect both the blue and green wires of the optional sensor to this input. This wire will report Zone 4." Now I'm not doing the dual stage sensor so ignore that. But basicaly do I just have to attatch this to the wire that see's 12 volts when the trunk is opened?

2. 200 mA domelight supervision output - do I really need to worry about this and it's optional relay? There's already a wire that goes to the door switches so if a door opens the alarm goes off...what does this wire do? It says the wire is for a relay and the relay it shows has 4 wires. The alarm's wire, a 12v constant, Domelight supervision wire, and domelight supervision polarity + or -

3. Remote start (-) activation input - no idea what this is for but here is what it says - "This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses on the white/blue wire for the remote start to actiivate or to deactivate. The same holds true for the remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary to press the * button twice for the remote start to activate or deactivate. NOTE: When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1, 2, or 3 pulses when changed it will affect both activation inputs; the White/Blue wire and the remote control activation." blegh...

4. Starter input - it says "For anti grind or starter kill attach this wire to the key side of the starter wire for anti grind and for the starter kill to be active." My car has a factory starter kill which I would like to keep, so my understanding is that I want to attatch this wire to the side of the switch that does NOT show 12v when I attempt to turn the car over while the starter kill is active? So like if I don't hit the starter kill button to deactivate it, the engine won't turn over, so the side of the switch that isn't getting power would be the side I tap into correct?

5. Second ignition output - it says not all vehicles need this. How would I find out if mine does or not?

Ok that's it for now. Thanks for any help contributed, also to eliminate confusion, can you guys just mention which problem your addressing? Thanks guys :)

[THUNDERBIRD]

for number one i put a mercury switch in for that but you can hook that to the trunk light. 2 that is a domelight supervision wire. so when you disarm it turns the dome lights on. number 3 i have to look at the book i am having a brain fart. 4 hook that up as it is part of the security system. and number 5 you have to look on the tech sheet for that.

[THUNDERBIRD]

for number one i put a mercury switch in for that but you can hook that to the trunk light. 2 that is a domelight supervision wire. so when you disarm it turns the dome lights on. number 3 i have to look at the book i am having a brain fart. 4 hook that up as it is part of the security system. and number 5 you have to look on the tech sheet for that.

[bubbagumper6]

1. might get a mercury switch...
2. probably wont do that wire then
4. I know that I hook it up dude i'm asking if i have the right wire
5. what tech sheet?

[THUNDERBIRD]

2. wire it in only takes a minute. 3. on the starter side so you bypass the starter kill i had to do it on my old remote start. 4 the tech sheet is what you look on to see what wires to hook up too in your car. direct techs, bulldogsecurity, or a 12volt cd.

[SuperchargedRS]

Ok I went through my alarm's install guide and marked all the wires that I had no problem with, I knew where they went. Here's everything else :)

1. Trunk Trigger Input - I'm pretty sure this is to monitor the light in the trunk, but here is what the description says. "Inputs shorter than .8 seconds will trigger the warn away response, while inputs longer than .8 seconds will trigger the full alarm sequence. If installing an optional directed electronics dual stage sensor, connect both the blue and green wires of the optional sensor to this input. This wire will report Zone 4." Now I'm not doing the dual stage sensor so ignore that. But basicaly do I just have to attatch this to the wire that see's 12 volts when the trunk is opened?

***Yup, 12v, if you have a light that goes on when you open the trunk it'll be cool, you sure about not using the shock sensor????

2. 200 mA domelight supervision output - do I really need to worry about this and it's optional relay? There's already a wire that goes to the door switches so if a door opens the alarm goes off...what does this wire do? It says the wire is for a relay and the relay it shows has 4 wires. The alarm's wire, a 12v constant, Domelight supervision wire, and domelight supervision polarity + or -

***what this does is up the dome light on when you hit disarm (kinda like the newer cars, when you hit unlock the inside lights up) however due to the low power it puts out you might want to use this wire to trigger a relay to flip the domelight on, if you want this feature

3. Remote start (-) activation input - no idea what this is for but here is what it says - "This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses on the white/blue wire for the remote start to actiivate or to deactivate. The same holds true for the remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary to press the * button twice for the remote start to activate or deactivate. NOTE: When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1, 2, or 3 pulses when changed it will affect both activation inputs; the White/Blue wire and the remote control activation." blegh...

**that is for factory alarm components (as factory kill switch, that pulse lets the new alarm "bypass" the factory ign. kill. IN QUESTION 4 you said you had a starter kill switch, this might be where you want to wire this to, thus allowing the starter kill to ALLOW the car to start on remote start. (that is if I am understanding you properly)

4. Starter input - it says "For anti grind or starter kill attach this wire to the key side of the starter wire for anti grind and for the starter kill to be active." My car has a factory starter kill which I would like to keep, so my understanding is that I want to attatch this wire to the side of the switch that does NOT show 12v when I attempt to turn the car over while the starter kill is active? So like if I don't hit the starter kill button to deactivate it, the engine won't turn over, so the side of the switch that isn't getting power would be the side I tap into correct?

**get the starter wire on your steering colum, you have the starter wire going into the ing. switch, then the one going down to the starter, you want the one going to the ign. switch. This keeps people from starting a remote started car.

5. Second ignition output - it says not all vehicles need this. How would I find out if mine does or not?
***unless you have some kind of antitheft system on it already you probably dont need it.

Ok that's it for now. Thanks for any help contributed, also to eliminate confusion, can you guys just mention which problem your addressing? Thanks guys :)

**ALSO IF YOU WANT TO TALK TO SOMEONE OVER THE PHONE ON THIS, CALL VIPER @ (800) 695-1350 ASK FOR TECH SUPPORT, THEY WILL NOT TALK TO YOU; THEY WILL ONLY TALK TO AUTHORIZED INSTALLERS.........So tell them you are John from the Best Buy in Palm Desert, CA store number 124 (that is a real store & store number, the name is not but they dont check that) then ask away, tell them you are new there and you store is swamped right now; they will tell you EVERYTHING you want to know in a quick manner. REMEMBER not to say MY car but the CUSTOMERS' car.

Also one side note, I would not use the siren, I would use the horn, as it is more of a factory thing, and also is probably louder and more likley to attract attention, as most people have become "imune" the the car alarm siren.

[bubbagumper6]

well its not the shock sensor im not using it's an optional dual stage sensor (didnt come with the alarm)

and i dont want that feature

and its not a big starter kill thing its just a small button...

[THUNDERBIRD]

y not run both the horn and siren? i have the horn hooked up on my dads caddy and it is annoying but gets attention. or do horn and put the siren up high under the dash.

[thejoker989]

If I remember right the trunk itrigger is a negative trigger, so you may need to use a relay if your trunk light is a positive trigger. And why use a mercury switch if you have a trunk light?... Double trunk pin

Remote start (-) input allows something other than your remote to remote start the car (push button start, etc)

If you dont connect starter input your key wont be able to start the car. Attach it to the key side of the starter wire after you cut it. If your too deep to know which side is the key side then props to you for a good starter kill location, and connect it to the side that gets power when your actually trying to start your car (starter kill off). If it still gets power when the existing starter kill is enabled , then it means you're in front of it and that means you'll have to disable the factory starter kill somehow before remote starting.

The right way to do this would be to use the status output on the remote start for it to push the factory starter kill disable button right before remote starting(will require a relay). This way you can retain the factory kill and have a successful remote start.

Anyother questions just post them. Im pretty familiar with dei products.

[bubbagumper6]

ok it might just be because I JUST woke up but I'm having a hard time understanding stuff...let me read it a couple more times then formulate my questions... :D

Also I'm just responding to this in order...

Ok im pretty sure the input for the trunk wire, is a negative input so no problem there

if i don't want to start the car with anything besides the remote and key do i really need this wire?

Ok lets get one thing straight first of all...I have no idea how the starter kill is wired up in my car...it was like then when I bought it. The only thing I know about it is that there is a small red button in my kick panel that I have to push before the car will start. I did notice a small black box with some wires coming out of it under the dash that didn't look very stock but I have no idea what a starter kill would look like so I don't know what I'm looking for. But back to the wiring, your telling me I have to tap the starter input on the key side of the button? Can I just use the 2 wires (one in and one out) of the button for the wires I need for my alarm?

[bubbagumper6]

Ok a couple more things,

the horn thing, it has a wire to honk the hord but it says I have to wire it up to trigger a relay, I know how to wire a relay I just don't know how to wire this...

also the antenna it says it should be "mounted vertically. It can be mounted horizontally in relation to the windshield or under the dashboard away from metal but range will be diminished" ok i dont want it under the dash or anything but how should I put it on my back windshield? It really can't go vertical because the glass is more horizontal then vertical. It can basically go from left to right or front to back...

last thing...I just found out that there is already a ****ing alarm installed in my car. Bought the car used...well that doesn't really matter because it looks old and I want to put my new one in anyway...my question is can I use the wires it has already hooked up to it for my new alarm? It's a hornet 725T and already has **** like a parking light wire, + and - door switch wires, and a couple other things...can I use these?

[bubbagumper6]

if I don't get any help by tomoro morning I'm just gunna try to use some of those wires... :P

and i think (since I removed the brain for the previous alarm) the starter kill won't work anymore so I'll probably just remove it and not worry about it....

[bubbagumper6]

ok ignore the last 2 posts...new problem. I got everything hooked up for the remote start half of the project...if I try to remote start the car it starts but then dies right after that...any help?

[mokedaddy]

Did you learn the tach wire to the remote start? This will cause that problem. Or it could possibly be a bypass issue but im not sure if your vehicle requires one.

[bubbagumper6]

no i didn't learn the tach wire...I believe that involves programing stuff in the brain right? I don't have the door pin wires hooked up yet...did mostly the remote start stuff today. HOPEFULLY I can finish everything else tomoro. Still need to do most of the alarm wires...

[bubbagumper6]

well I tried to "learn" the tach wire but nothing happens when I hold down the valet button. I sat there for a good minute and nothing happened...

[mokedaddy]

You may have the wrong tach wire. Is it possible to get a picture of where you have connected the tach wire?

[bubbagumper6]

I think I figured it out...my engine is really wonky and the rpms are a little off sometimes. I switched the programming thing from tach check to voltage check and it works now :)

on to the alarm stuff

[THUNDERBIRD]

good deal. yeah you can use those old alarm wires just cut them and hook the new wires into it. you soldering everything? if so good boy

[bubbagumper6]

yeah i was checking out the old alarm wires and didn't like the way they were set up (plus they were covered in old electric tape glue) so I just cut them off at the car's stock wiring and re-did everything myself.

And of course I soldered everything ;) think I'm new here?

So last thing here...I got the remote start working fine, installed all 6 sirens but waiting on a couple relays to wire them up, waiting on pin switches for the doors (stock ones are crappy) and I think that's about it...

btw any tips on how to mount the shock sensor? Can't seem to place it where it can be sensitive...I was literally rocking my car and it wasn't going off...

[THUNDERBIRD]

i have my shock sensor mounted to a metal support on the dash it works great, i normally zip tie them to a big wiring harness, steering column. you gotta play with it, adjust the sensitivity, i personally like it set high so alot of things set it off.

[bubbagumper6]

how can I adjust the sensitivity? Cuz yeah I would like it to be REALLY sensitive...and should I mount it to a more stationary object like metal or something loose like wire...

[THUNDERBIRD]

if you look on the side of it you will see a orange dial on the inside stick a small phillips in it and turn it up, not all the way like 3/4 is good so you have room to adjust if more if you want.

[bubbagumper6]

aight sweet thanks

[THUNDERBIRD]

no problem so how is it all going now? remember to not bundle the antenna wire up. your putting the 5900 in right?

[bubbagumper6]

yeah the antenna wire was actually pretty tight...almost not long enough

but I just checked the sensitivity thing and nothing... :( first I had it attached to fairly stationary bundle of wires...nothing would set it off. Then I put so the sensor was literally hanging from it's wires...also nothing. Sensitivity was at about 3/4 also

edit: and yeah it's the 5900