PDA

View Full Version : which 8" midbass?



joeman
05-22-2007, 07:30 PM
I need some 8s to add responsive kick to the 80-150hz range for my 3000GT. I want to make a couple of small (1cube) ported glass enclosures in place of the rear 6x9 spots. They will be fairly shallow enclosures, 5-7" deep.

Right now my system is...
Alpine IVA-d300 head unit
Alpine MRV-F545 (100x4RMS)
Seas Lotus reference fronts
looking to replace>> Alpine type-X 6x9 rears
Alpine MRD-M1005 (1000wRMS)
pushing 2 Brahma 10D4's
100sqft of Damplifier Pro throughout.

So really the only thing missing is that tight midbass thump. (those 6x9s are super weak!) The Lotus comps are GREAT, but they arent really suited for below 150Hz. My brahmas pound up to about 80hz and then start to taper off.... so I need something that's going to add punch, balancing out that area working with 100watts. I guess I would need 90+ sensitivity rating and good SQ to match the rest of my system.

I would even be open to a component set with tweets and crossover because I do have an unused 3" tweet spot on my dash.
I can go anywhere from $50-$500 for the set depending on quality. What do you guys recommend?

3.5Max6spd
05-22-2007, 08:56 PM
My vote goes to Dynaudio Mw172's. They should blend with your Brahma oh so nice. Killer midbass, 3"VC so you can pile on the power, and its shallow design for an 8".

inapontiac
05-22-2007, 08:57 PM
my vote is RE8s i have for sale

MiniVanMan
05-22-2007, 11:29 PM
So really the only thing missing is that tight midbass thump. (those 6x9s are super weak!) The Lotus comps are GREAT, but they arent really suited for below 150Hz.


Those Lotus comps should hit 80 hz no problem. Something is seriously wrong with your install if they can't. Before spending more money, tell us how you've treated your doors.

We may be able to give you some ideas to clean things up up front.

Like I said, and I'm surprised nobody else caught it, those Lotus' should have NO problem hitting 80 hz with authority if installed correctly.

iyamwutiam
05-23-2007, 12:50 AM
Right now the Morel 266s are dirt cheap -partsexpress is blowing them out-- On Ebay. Very similar to the Dyns - at 1/3 the price-oops I meant 1/4th .
They are shallow, high QTS and will work great in doors.

Symon_say
05-23-2007, 03:38 PM
Dayton RS225

alphakenny1
05-23-2007, 04:13 PM
Peerless SLS 8's. they are cheap and freaking wang. all you need is to give it an honest 75 watts @ 8 ohms IB in doors. output is pretty insane and its cheap, $60 a driver. thats the midbass i'd probably be using if i could fit them. nice balanced sound, good low end extension and punchy to boot.

joeman
05-26-2007, 11:18 AM
Those Lotus comps should hit 80 hz no problem. Something is seriously wrong with your install if they can't. Before spending more money, tell us how you've treated your doors.

We may be able to give you some ideas to clean things up up front.

Like I said, and I'm surprised nobody else caught it, those Lotus' should have NO problem hitting 80 hz with authority if installed correctly.

I had them installed at Tweeter. They built a custom mdf panel but I think the OEM baffle is behind there. I also gave them a door speaker kit from secondskin (round rubber mat). and trusted them to install the Damplifier correctly. I never had it apart as to not void the warranty. But the passenger speaker fell out after the first week because of stripped screws and I saw what was inside.... the x-overs were mounted right behind the magnet. They fixed the install and insisted this was an ok place to have the x-overs. I was pissed because what good is my speaker kit doing now?

Anyway, the whole setup sounds awesome until 7/8 volume and then certain notes are fuzzy below 150hz from the Lotus.

6spdcoupe
05-26-2007, 01:48 PM
Go back and have them fix the incredibly bad install job they did. Their intention was most likely to have it sound bad, then 'upgrade' you into one of their own products.

joeman
05-26-2007, 03:31 PM
I tried that already. All I ended up with is a few bux off the labor charge. And if I go somewhere else it voids the warranty. What would be a correct install? pods? I guess they couldnt find any better place for the x-over, since it is a sportscar there's not so much room. Heres a couple basic pics.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c43/424745/system/30-11-06_1706.jpg?t=1180209026

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c43/424745/system/30-11-06_1621.jpg?t=1180209169

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c43/424745/system/30-11-06_1611.jpg?t=1180209309

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c43/424745/system/30-11-06_1609.jpg?t=1180209387

and here's the 6x9 spot

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c43/424745/system/30-11-06_1608.jpg?t=1180209567

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c43/424745/system/30-11-06_1650.jpg?t=1180210169

6spdcoupe
05-26-2007, 03:42 PM
Voids what warranty? Their labor warranty? We already know that that doesnt amount to much .. go somewhere else and have it done right.

joeman
05-26-2007, 04:12 PM
I did the box and HU but they installed the comps, amps, rack, wiring, and sound damping... so if anything they put in blows up or comes loose they will fix it for free.


I've already set my HU xovers and it fixed the SQ So now I just need to fill in the weak area. Eventually I might get the comps redone at a better shop, but that's money I'd rather spend on some good midbass 8s for now.

6spdcoupe
05-26-2007, 04:16 PM
What you already have certainly has alot more potential than what the install is allowing. What good is fixing something that falls or comes loose if its not functioning properly to begin with?

With that being said, Ill second the vote on the MW172, but youll most likely be back with issues on them as well with the track record of your installer...

joeman
05-26-2007, 04:17 PM
Anyway, I just want to know which 8 will hit the hardest & cleanest between 80/150hz using 100-150 watts, while fitting less than 6" deep to be safe.

James Bang
05-26-2007, 04:21 PM
if that install is fixed then there wouldn't be a 'weak area' and no need for 8"s

joeman
05-26-2007, 04:23 PM
What you already have certainly has alot more potential than what the install is allowing. What good is fixing something that falls or comes loose if its not functioning properly to begin with?

With that being said, Ill second the vote on the MW172, but youll most likely be back with issues on them as well with the track record of your installer...

Thanks for the info I will check out the MW172...

Ha... Tweeter wont be touching my car for any additional work. Once burned, They only got my business in the first place because they underquoted the job and timeframe, and basically nobody else wanted to install parts I bought from internet vendors.

6spdcoupe
05-26-2007, 04:23 PM
if that install is fixed then there wouldn't be a 'weak area' and no need for 8"s

Agreed, but apparently he just wants to spend money..

joeman
05-26-2007, 04:28 PM
if that install is fixed then there wouldn't be a 'weak area' and no need for 8"s

So you guys actually think some 100w (I admit very HQ) 6.5 mids will keep up with a pair of 1000w subs?

My prob is mainly SPL.... and I dont want to detune my subs. The Lotus sound fine until I crank the system near max, and even then, they still sound fine above 150hz

MiniVanMan
05-26-2007, 04:55 PM
Even 8" drivers in the doors will not keep up with that much power going to a couple of subwoofers. It's simple matter of displacement.

Those Lotus mids though, are VERY nice, and should run flat down to 80 hz. There shouldn't be a drop off at 150 hz.

Something is wrong with the install. So, even putting 8's in there won't fix your overall problem.

joeman
05-26-2007, 05:10 PM
ok, thanks. maybe I need some baffling or move those x-overs out of the way

joeman
06-05-2007, 10:11 PM
I decided I'm still getting some 8s. I need DVC-4 ohm or SVC-8 ohm subs @300w RMS.

alphakenny1
06-05-2007, 10:43 PM
I decided I'm still getting some 8s. I need DVC-4 ohm or SVC-8 ohm subs @300w RMS.


Peerless SLS 8's. they are cheap and freaking wang. all you need is to give it an honest 75 watts @ 8 ohms IB in doors. output is pretty insane and its cheap, $60 a driver. thats the midbass i'd probably be using if i could fit them. nice balanced sound, good low end extension and punchy to boot.

;).

seriously, these things rock. they can easily play down to 20hz. don't believe me? read the midbass test i was a part of, http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11159.

req
06-06-2007, 12:18 AM
the question is, how well do they perform in an IB install. that SLS looks nice, but IB makes me ichy. i cant do pods in my current doors without major modifications (and im not willing in this car lol) so i need IB.

and i need up to about 1.2khz.

"One last thing: this driver isn’t a good choice if you need something to play up to 1 KHz. Won’t do it."

so they are out of my mind now :(

for me, the Morel MW 266 sounds like a better bang for the buck. i dont need them to play lower than 80hz, so they should be good.

i dunno, it really all depends on your substage and your midrange\tweeter. if you can go active 3 way in the front, no biggie. but for me its 2way or the highway. ID horns FTW.

good stuff here. some good mids to take a look at. i wish i could do all the testing these guys did :)

alphakenny1
06-06-2007, 12:23 AM
the question is, how well do they perform in an IB install. that SLS looks nice, but IB makes me ichy. i cant do pods in my current doors without major modifications (and im not willing in this car lol) so i need IB.

and i need up to about 1.2khz.

"One last thing: this driver isnít a good choice if you need something to play up to 1 KHz. Wonít do it."

so they are out of my mind now :(

for me, the Morel MW 266 sounds like a better bang for the buck. i dont need them to play lower than 80hz, so they should be good.

i dunno, it really all depends on your substage and your midrange\tweeter. if you can go active 3 way in the front, no biggie. but for me its 2way or the highway. ID horns FTW.

good stuff here. some good mids to take a look at. i wish i could do all the testing these guys did :)

well like you said the SLSs won't play up to 1.2khz or so but that test was using my door pods in an IB install and just read his reviews ;). its very balanced and full, yet punchy as well and can get low. output is awesome. again sls were getting 75 watts @ 8 ohms. if i could fit them, i'd probably be running without a sub. it really does satisfy my bass needs.

///M5
06-08-2007, 10:42 AM
I wouldn't even think of running them in the rear. You need them in the front or you don't need them at all. As everyone else said fix the install first...

joeman
06-08-2007, 09:48 PM
Around what freq would I notice localization?

I was listening to my system last night after some tweeking and it is a pretty balanced setup after all. I adjusted the Seas down to 120hz and bumped the EQs in the 100Hz range it sounds a lil better now. It was so loud I actually got Ill from the earache later on. Not cool if youve experienced that.

I think I need to pull my sounstage a little higher though. I wish I could re-aim them because the fire almost staright across. It sounds much better if I put my head down at gearshift level. I have a couple unused spots on each side of the dash that housed a ****** OEM 2.25" mid. Should I throw a tweeter or something in there firing at the windshield?? How would I wire it and still get 4 ohms to my comps?

Tonyguy
06-09-2007, 06:47 PM
where can i buy those peerless drivers?

wolfman1966
06-09-2007, 06:53 PM
my vote is RE8s i have for sale


just my opinion, but I wouldn't call RE8's midbass...I have 2 in my trunk with a 300 watt amp pushing them, and they are probably hitting over 130db (gonna try and get them metered this week). They are definately Subwoofers maybe they don't get as low as bigger woofers, but they get plenty low and loud for me

bass_lover1
06-10-2007, 12:01 AM
The SEAS should easily play down to 80hz and below. Your install is holding you back, I PROMISE you that.

For one, the deflex pads aren't doing squat with the x-over in the way. The installer was lazy and wanted to run as little cable as possible. I know you say you have 100sq ft of SS in various places, but how well are your doors done? I'd say a minimum of 2 layers on the outer and 1 on the inner, and I'm sure your doors have big gaping holes in the inner panel, you definitely need to seal those up.

If you do this, and then you feel you're still lacking in that region, then it's possible you were just expecting too much and ended up disappointed, maybe a decent 8" midbass will help you out then, but I still say you can do with out it.

///M5
06-11-2007, 11:23 PM
Around what freq would I notice localization?

I was listening to my system last night after some tweeking and it is a pretty balanced setup after all. I adjusted the Seas down to 120hz and bumped the EQs in the 100Hz range it sounds a lil better now. It was so loud I actually got Ill from the earache later on. Not cool if youve experienced that.

I think I need to pull my sounstage a little higher though. I wish I could re-aim them because the fire almost staright across. It sounds much better if I put my head down at gearshift level. I have a couple unused spots on each side of the dash that housed a ****** OEM 2.25" mid. Should I throw a tweeter or something in there firing at the windshield?? How would I wire it and still get 4 ohms to my comps?

Pretty easy to test, play around with your crossover and see. To me I can't handle a sub playing any higher than 50hz with a shallow slope or at most 63hz with 24db in either of my current vehicles. Remember midbass >>> subbass