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UCF52
04-07-2007, 02:24 PM
i searched the forum but didnt really come up with a lot of info. has anybody stained mdf red oak. or has anybody even stained mdf?? i build an enclosure for home theater and planned on painting it black, but am fooling around with the idea of staining. if anybody has any pictures or links, that would be awesome.

on a seperate note - can i remove all of the screws from my box and fill the wholes with wood filler? after sanding the enclosure down a few of the screws are no longer coutersunk. thanks!

CRAZYCORNUTS18
04-07-2007, 02:28 PM
you need the screws to keep it together even if it is caulked or used woodglue

tEh koRnDog
04-07-2007, 02:32 PM
what about wood veneer

JimJ
04-07-2007, 02:33 PM
MDF, in its raw form, looks like ****.

Staining MDF would make it look like darker ****.

There's really no way to make MDF look pretty other than painting it, veneering it or covering it in something textured like fleckstone.

bjfish11
04-07-2007, 02:35 PM
MDF, in its raw form, looks like ****.

Staining MDF would make it look like darker ****.

There's really no way to make MDF look pretty other than painting it, veneering it or covering it in something textured like fleckstone.

From what I read Jim, he is using MDF Oak. It is a MDF with an already applied veneer. In this case, yes you can stain it, and yes, it will look very nice. It will look just like any other stained oak.

JimJ
04-07-2007, 02:36 PM
you need the screws to keep it together even if it is caulked or used woodglue

The wood itself will fail before the wood glue will...

IamDeMan
04-07-2007, 02:36 PM
MDF, in its raw form, looks like ****.

Staining MDF would make it look like darker ****.

There's really no way to make MDF look pretty other than painting it, veneering it or covering it in something textured like fleckstone.
Well, ****.

JimJ
04-07-2007, 02:38 PM
From what I read Jim, he is using MDF Oak. It is a MDF with an already applied veneer. In this case, yes you can stain it, and yes, it will look very nice. It will look just like any other stained oak.

Yeah, if he's using pre-veneered material it'll come out nice.

I just read his sentence as saying he would stain MDF using a red oak stain.

Flipx99
04-07-2007, 02:40 PM
The wood itself will fail before the wood glue will...

I can also vouch for this. Trying to disassemble a box after I glued one of the pieces down wrong.

Flipx99
04-07-2007, 02:41 PM
i searched the forum but didnt really come up with a lot of info. has anybody stained mdf red oak. or has anybody even stained mdf?? i build an enclosure for home theater and planned on painting it black, but am fooling around with the idea of staining. if anybody has any pictures or links, that would be awesome.

on a seperate note - can i remove all of the screws from my box and fill the wholes with wood filler? after sanding the enclosure down a few of the screws are no longer coutersunk. thanks!

It looks to me like he is wanting to stain mdf to achieve a red oak color. The second sentence backs this up.

iamamp3pimp
04-07-2007, 02:52 PM
to the OP.

id recommend staining birch. heres my examples

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/iamamp3pimp/Worklogs/whosaywho/Picture546.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/iamamp3pimp/Worklogs/whosaywho/Picture548.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/iamamp3pimp/Worklogs/whosaywho/100_3852.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/iamamp3pimp/Worklogs/Peter/100_45141024x768.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/iamamp3pimp/Worklogs/Peter/100_45101024x768.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d177/iamamp3pimp/Worklogs/Peter/100_45081024x768.jpg

etc

etc

bjfish11
04-07-2007, 02:52 PM
Yeah, if he's using pre-veneered material it'll come out nice.

I just read his sentence as saying he would stain MDF using a red oak stain.

You could be right, I dont know. The reason I said what I did was because our MDF oak we sell is a MDF RO (which means red oak).

UCF52
04-07-2007, 03:34 PM
wow, i didnt expect this many responses this quickly! thanks so far guys!

to clear up the removing of screws - its seems the consensus is that removing them and and fillign with wood filler will be ok, right??

iamamp3pimp - the box is already constructed and awaiting a finish, but i appreciate the help and the pics (that is good to know for future reference, thanks)

JimJ - you were correct as i am using raw (regular) MDF and made it clear that using a stain on it will look like ****. thanks for the quick replys.

I guess i will try and decide between painting it black or going with a more rugged look and use Line-X. If i do decide to use line-x do i have to prime the box or just spray it directly on? Any more insight to finishing this box would be greatly appreciated! And thanks again to those of you have have already replied!

iamamp3pimp
04-07-2007, 03:41 PM
i searched the forum but didnt really come up with a lot of info. has anybody stained mdf red oak. or has anybody even stained mdf?? i build an enclosure for home theater and planned on painting it black, but am fooling around with the idea of staining. if anybody has any pictures or links, that would be awesome.

on a seperate note - can i remove all of the screws from my box and fill the wholes with wood filler? after sanding the enclosure down a few of the screws are no longer coutersunk. thanks!

if you used woodglue and you did it right, then yes, youc an remove them.

Flipx99
04-07-2007, 03:42 PM
Don't use the aresol type sold at wal-mart. The liner sits on top of the wood instead of aborbing in my experiences. Maybe if you rough it up with some 30 grit or something, your results may be better.

Painting mdf is very difficult. Not difficult in action, but difficult to make it look good.

iamamp3pimp
04-07-2007, 03:50 PM
you can lay a thin veneer on the top of MDF with contact cement, and then stain that.....

UCF52
04-07-2007, 03:53 PM
if you used woodglue and you did it right, then yes, youc an remove them.

cool, thanks!


Don't use the aresol type sold at wal-mart. The liner sits on top of the wood instead of aborbing in my experiences. Maybe if you rough it up with some 30 grit or something, your results may be better.

So, are you suggesting that i do not buy the aeresol (sp?) type and instead the brush applied type. And if i do buy the aeresol, rough it up to 30 grit or so. I wish there was a how-to on line-x-ing an MDF box. Also, no primer necessary for a line-x application, right?


Painting mdf is very difficult. Not difficult in action, but difficult to make it look good.

That is the reason i was searching alternative finishing methods.

iamamp3pimp
04-07-2007, 03:54 PM
np!

UCF52
04-07-2007, 03:55 PM
you can lay a thin veneer on the top of MDF with contact cement, and then stain that.....

would it be difficult to to this if my edges have a roundover?

Relax
04-07-2007, 04:20 PM
would it be difficult to to this if my edges have a roundover?

You can't do compound roundovers (corners) with veneer, although it will do a single roundover (edge) fine.

Why don't you try staining MDF. It will work, the only thing is if you like how it looks. At the very least you could try it, if you don't like how it looks, paint it.

Flipx99
04-07-2007, 04:26 PM
I will use the roll on type for any future applications. Currently, I don't bother covering boxes. They don't last very long before I build another. Home Audio, I would though.

I have seen stained mdf before. It did not look good IMO.

If you want, I can stain a scrap piece this moss green color I have. I will show you how it looks bad.

UCF52
04-07-2007, 05:03 PM
yea i have compound roundovers, so veneering is out. i think i am just gonna try staining (red oak) a scrap piece to see how bad it looks. i will prob end up painting it though.

Immacomputer
04-08-2007, 12:21 AM
MDF can look pretty decent when stained.

I stained this enclosure dark walnut and I think it turned out pretty decent:

http://i16.tinypic.com/2qmf7zm.jpg

I used a brush to apply the stain and it gave streaks that look similar to wood grain.
http://i14.tinypic.com/2rp9xkj.jpg

BassTurd
04-08-2007, 12:42 AM
Olympic makes a graining tool to create a wood grain on painted and metal surfaces. You would start by priming the box and then use the tool with whatever stain color you wanted. I've seen it do a pretty good job on a metal door. It would probably do well on painted MDF.
http://www.ppg.com/ppgaf/olympic/igraining.htm

UCF52
04-08-2007, 01:52 AM
thanks for all of the replies everybody, but i think i am going to try and paint it and see how it turns out. ill be sure to post some pics when its done.

Grim
04-08-2007, 02:17 AM
Well just so you know..

You can remove the screws as said. They are only there to hold the wood together as the glue dries. However, you could do it another way

Either A. Use a Brad Nailer and then fill over the brad nails with filler or B. Dont use screws or nails and just use clamps to hold it while the wood glue dries..

UCF52
04-08-2007, 11:02 AM
Well just so you know..

You can remove the screws as said. They are only there to hold the wood together as the glue dries. However, you could do it another way

Either A. Use a Brad Nailer and then fill over the brad nails with filler or B. Dont use screws or nails and just use clamps to hold it while the wood glue dries..

Thanks for the advice. Im in the process now of removing the screws and filling the holes. I would have loved to use clamps, but unfortunately (well fortunately) i am a college student and couldn't afford to purchase a bunch of clamps.

Question: Will primer set fine on wood filler??

pitbull12888
04-08-2007, 11:09 AM
Did you sand it before you stained it? Or just slap the stain on.

PV Audio
04-08-2007, 11:42 AM
You don't stain MDF, it will just make it a different color (brown-red glop instead of tan glop).

And to whoever said that you can't remove screws, don't comment again.

PV Audio
04-08-2007, 11:44 AM
thanks for all of the replies everybody, but i think i am going to try and paint it and see how it turns out. ill be sure to post some pics when its done.
In that case, expect it to look like ****. Not becuase you yourself can't paint, but painting speaker enclosures isn't something that you just go and try, you spend weeks doing to get everything just right. Some lacquers used by audio companies take weeks to cure fully.

tEh koRnDog
04-08-2007, 11:52 AM
In that case, expect it to look like ****. Not becuase you yourself can't paint, but painting speaker enclosures isn't something that you just go and try, you spend weeks doing to get everything just right. Some lacquers used by audio companies take weeks to cure fully.

and how do you know hes not gonna spend some time doing this? Give the guy a chance before you say its gonna look like **** jackass.

fwb_1234
04-08-2007, 11:54 AM
hey man. it will probably look fine for what you are looking for.

There is this great rattle can paint you can use if you want a satin finish Krylon H2O. It's Wal-Mart and thus fairly inexpensive but it gives a great finish if you are patient. I just finished a shadowbox and I love how smooth the coat is.

Fred

UCF52
04-08-2007, 12:31 PM
Did you sand it before you stained it? Or just slap the stain on.

I think you are referring to Immacomputer, but if this question is for me - i have sanded it to 220 grit and have not applied a finish to it yet.


In that case, expect it to look like ****. Not becuase you yourself can't paint, but painting speaker enclosures isn't something that you just go and try, you spend weeks doing to get everything just right. Some lacquers used by audio companies take weeks to cure fully.

For my needs, i dont need the enclosure to look absolutely perfect. i am in college and this is just for my apartment. i feel confident in my abilities to apply a quality finish to my enclosure (i will prob use the write-up that someone recently did for his box in a blazer i believe).


and how do you know hes not gonna spend some time doing this? Give the guy a chance before you say its gonna look like **** jackass.

thanks buddy. and i will definately spend a lot of time doing this as this is the first component to my HT setup - so no rush to get anything done.


hey man. it will probably look fine for what you are looking for.

There is this great rattle can paint you can use if you want a satin finish Krylon H2O. It's Wal-Mart and thus fairly inexpensive but it gives a great finish if you are patient. I just finished a shadowbox and I love how smooth the coat is.

Fred

thanks man! i appreciate the help. any pics of the box?

PV Audio
04-08-2007, 01:26 PM
and how do you know hes not gonna spend some time doing this? Give the guy a chance before you say its gonna look like **** jackass.I didn't insult him you ****, I stated that getting a great painted finish is 95% prep work. Most often you have to decide to paint the box BEFORE it's built. Like I said in the post, I didn't say that he wasn't capable, but it sounds like he just wants a quick finish, not something with 30 layers of paint, sealer and primer and a week's worth of sanding.

fwb_1234
04-16-2007, 09:00 PM
Sure. These aren't like really awesome quality pics, but I tried to get the finish in.

It's painted 1x4 pine, I think.

No primer, just one and a half cans of paint and some fine sandpaper in between coats.

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/6949/1006612sl4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/4486/1006619lo5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/1143/1006616cv8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

For MDF you might want to do a nice coat of primer.

UCF52
04-17-2007, 12:51 PM
interesting. thanks for the reply with pics. i still havn't had a chance to lay a finish on the box - it's sanded to 600 grit as it sits. i have been really busy with finals and work. i have decided to paint it black though. gonna follow the tutorial someone created a while back. i will def post some pics of the finished product. thanks everybody for all of the replies and input!