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caustik_bt
02-25-2007, 04:59 PM
Hi all! I know I probably don't belong on this experienced audiophiles forum, but I figured I should ask the best.

Anyway, I've got a '96 Saturn SL2 which has the most panzycrap OEM speakers I've ever heard. I just ordered a new HU so I can play my iPod and CDs (Kenwood MP2035). I have also pretty much ruled out getting a sub anytime soon. So I'm looking at 6 3/4" speakers on a budget, so obviously not a component system.

My main concern beyond general quality, is that good cabin speakers are not designed to handle the entire job (ie: rely on a sub for the low end). What might be a good direction to look for quality speakers designed to reproduce the whole range on their own?

Specs to consider: HU has 22w RMS x4, max 50w. OEM speakers are 6 3/4" all around (2 front 2 rear). Rumor of some depth issues with the front speakers (some speakers apparently are really close to the other side of the door). Preferably less than $100 per pair, though I can bend a little.

Thanks so much in advance! :D

rammin
02-25-2007, 05:12 PM
, http://www.cdtaudio.com/slim_neo_systems.htm (no depth issues here)

caustik_bt
02-25-2007, 05:17 PM
I'm really not too worried about the depth, I just mentioned it to avoid any behemoth speaker suggestions.

zSnb
02-25-2007, 05:53 PM
Look for the Phoenix Gold RSD 65CS. They are pretty new speakers and the price is about $130. Alot of the reviews state that the midbass drivers on those can play a full signal with no crossover and sound really good doing so. This may be your best option since you wont have a large sub to play the low freqencies. You will be able to hit most of your lower frequencies but by no means will these replace the output and loudness of a sub.

acold7dusta
02-25-2007, 05:58 PM
why dont you want a sub? youre not going to get many speakers thatll play down past 70 hz with much authority in your price range...

if you dont want a sub in the trunk, you could always do a 3 way setup- 8" mid bass, 4" midrange, tweeter, and you could have decent extension down to 40 hz or lower depending on the install

konechiwa
02-25-2007, 11:47 PM
i've never heard them, but blaupunkt makes some budget speakers that have MASSIVE voice coils...3" voice coils to be exact.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mUfcaFUqt2K/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52000&I=023VELO652

here they are on crutchfield

Hintzyboy
02-26-2007, 01:06 AM
Just pick up some Pioneer REV coaxials for now. Very nice coaxial speakers, affordable, easy to install, do nicely off of HU power, etc. A lot of Components out there don't have much for bass response because the companies tend to assume that people who buy comps also have subs.

caustik_bt
02-26-2007, 02:44 AM
Look for the Phoenix Gold RSD 65CS. They are pretty new speakers and the price is about $130. Alot of the reviews state that the midbass drivers on those can play a full signal with no crossover and sound really good doing so. This may be your best option since you wont have a large sub to play the low freqencies. You will be able to hit most of your lower frequencies but by no means will these replace the output and loudness of a sub.

Wow, after looking them up, they look to be a very hot option. For the price of a coax of another brand, I can afford the components of the Phoenix Golds. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what I would have to do to place the tweeter in my car. Any quick and dirty reccomendations if I go the component route?

As for the sub, the ultimate reason I do not want to get a sub is expense. I want a sub, but it is far from reasonable right now. Maybe later in the summer I will shell out the cash, but certainly not now. It also would seem retardedly pointless to get a sub and keep the OEM speakers.

///M5
02-27-2007, 12:45 AM
Just pick up some Pioneer REV coaxials for now. Very nice coaxial speakers, affordable, easy to install, do nicely off of HU power, etc. A lot of Components out there don't have much for bass response because the companies tend to assume that people who buy comps also have subs.
I sure hope you've actually had a set running off a headunit.

IMO, you need an amp and deadening. It is more important than splitting hairs on what speaker to buy.

Hintzyboy
02-27-2007, 12:56 AM
I sure hope you've actually had a set running off a headunit.

IMO, you need an amp and deadening. It is more important than splitting hairs on what speaker to buy.

Honestly dude, do you search out my responses and try to refute them? I personally have not run the REVs, but there are several reviews on them and members much more knowledgeable than I have suggested them for just this situation. From the looks of the Original Post, the kid does not want to get an amp. There are several people on here who run REVs off of HU power with minimal deadening that are perfectly happy.

It sure would be nice if you would suggest something instead of saying or implying that everyone else is wrong, I honestly don't think I've seen you post anything but negative comments toward other people's responses. I'm not trying to be a prick or anything, just pointing out what I see.

zSnb
02-27-2007, 01:44 AM
Wow, after looking them up, they look to be a very hot option. For the price of a coax of another brand, I can afford the components of the Phoenix Golds. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what I would have to do to place the tweeter in my car. Any quick and dirty reccomendations if I go the component route?

As for the sub, the ultimate reason I do not want to get a sub is expense. I want a sub, but it is far from reasonable right now. Maybe later in the summer I will shell out the cash, but certainly not now. It also would seem retardedly pointless to get a sub and keep the OEM speakers.

all you need to do is find a flat surface relatively near the the midrange on your car door to drill a hole for the tweeter. Just use a hole saw and drop that b1tch in there.

Yea subs are expensive, but if you can save up $400 you can also get a Phoenix Gold RSD sub, box, and amp that sounds even nicer than alot of options costing in the $300 to $400 range for the sub alone. I hate to brand ***** but the RSD line right now is just a steal.

caustik_bt
02-27-2007, 02:29 AM
Yea subs are expensive, but if you can save up $400 you can also get a Phoenix Gold RSD sub, box, and amp that sounds even nicer than alot of options costing in the $300 to $400 range for the sub alone. I hate to brand ***** but the RSD line right now is just a steal.

Where might I find said setup? Crutchfield is offering $300 for the amp and $130 for the sub alone, not to mention I would need cables and a box.

Or am I correct in getting the impression that Crutchfield is only where the n00bs shop? (Which of course what I am as far as car audio goes)

JimJ
02-27-2007, 02:32 AM
A lot of Components out there don't have much for bass response because the companies tend to assume that people who buy comps also have subs.

Care to prove that?

:)


There are several people on here who run REVs off of HU power with minimal deadening that are perfectly happy.

And there are people out there that are perfectly happy with stock systems...doesn't make striving for more any less worthy of a goal :)

Fast1one
02-27-2007, 02:38 AM
The install is the important thing here...dont expect ANY component system to perform to your expectations without some good sound deadening and an amplifier to boot...With your doors deadened You can get most components down into the 60s or lower, but not much below that...

DaveDSMer
02-27-2007, 05:02 AM
ive done an install on a 95 Saturn SL and if the speaker mounting is the same for 96.. get ready for a fun time. I will give you some tips. I used a my big *** knife to cut the heads right off the plastic screws that hold them in because the heads just shread when you try to remove them. Another way is if you can twist the screw out just a enough to get some needle nose pliers on them you can just yank them out with the pliers. Also.. the speaker holes of a 6.5" speaker do NOT match up to the factory holes. They decided to make them about 1/4 inch further apart. So get ready to cut some rings from masonite or MDF to mount the new speakers. This is of course if you want to do it right. I have never tried to match up a 6.75" speaker to a Saturn so maybe.. just maybe it will match up to the holes.. never know. Also the rear grills take some a bit of muscle to pry off but the good news if when you get them off just use the new speaker grills you get and throw away the stock ones because the way that location is designed it will actually look nice with the aftermarket grills.

caustik_bt
02-27-2007, 01:05 PM
ive done an install on a 95 Saturn SL and if the speaker mounting is the same for 96.. get ready for a fun time.

Fortunately I belive they are not the same, as the models changed from 95 to 96, my car is the first year of the 'new' model.

Ok, so what I'm thinking of doing is... getting 4 of those Phoenix Gold RSd 6.5 Coax's (cuz I found out the rsd comps are $130), and getting baffles for them. But that leaves me with mounting. The factory speakers are 6 3/4", and from what reviews on crutchfield say, the adapter "designed" for my car kinda ***** donkey ****. What is the best way to adapt the 6 1/2"s to the 6 3/4"s? I'm not afraid to go to home depot and fabricate my own adapters, but I'd rather spare the work.

DaveDSMer
02-27-2007, 03:04 PM
like i said make some 1/4" masonite rings. make a cardboard cutout of what you need then cut the masonite with a jigsaw to match it. I like to either use a layer of deadener or some non hardening modeling clay to go between the ring and the door. Secure it all on there and you got yourself a nice mounting location.

Hintzyboy
02-27-2007, 05:05 PM
Care to prove that?

:)



And there are people out there that are perfectly happy with stock systems...doesn't make striving for more any less worthy of a goal :)



On the first remark, I know most good comonent sets can play bass to a certain extent, but for really good performance in the lower ranges (sub-100Hz) a subwoofer is pretty much necessary IMO. For a lot of people, the subwoofer is the first upgrade over the stock system. If a company assumes that people who puy their component speakers have already bought subwoofers, why would they spend extra time making the comps capable of playing very far into the subbass range? Hell even most of the higher-end comps I've looked at only play down to around 50 Hz according to the spec sheet. I can't prove what's on the mind of the people who run the audio companies. Just an observation I've made based on what I've seen and what I've read in a few audio mags.

On the second part, I never said that it would be a bad idea or waste of time to amp and deaden the REVs. ///M5 replied to my suggestion of the REVs in a way that I though implied that it was a bad idea to run the REVs on HU power (another suggestion he made in the post he responded to). I would never discourage someone from amping or deadening speakers. But the OP doesn't appear to want to buy an amp, and looks to be a beginner. So I simply suggested a solution that would fit his budget and that I believed would require minimal installation hassle for him based on the many reviews and suggestions I've seen for the REVs.

///M5
02-28-2007, 12:32 AM
Honestly dude, do you search out my responses and try to refute them? I personally have not run the REVs, but there are several reviews on them and members much more knowledgeable than I have suggested them for just this situation. From the looks of the Original Post, the kid does not want to get an amp. There are several people on here who run REVs off of HU power with minimal deadening that are perfectly happy.

It sure would be nice if you would suggest something instead of saying or implying that everyone else is wrong, I honestly don't think I've seen you post anything but negative comments toward other people's responses. I'm not trying to be a prick or anything, just pointing out what I see.

Actually I don't search you out at all, but you post out your *** all of the time. There is nothing that drives me nuts more than people giving out wrong information or E-gurgitating. I do offer a lot of help regularly, but in particular this site has to many jackalopes that offer advice that don't know what they are talking about. Just because you have read something doesn't mean that you should reiterate it. Currently I don't believe that you can tell the difference between bad and good advice and keep posting. Your posts **** me off therefore I call you out. Stop being an E-boner and I will leave you alone. IMO you have no right recommending something you haven't tried or have no personal experience with. On top of that in a hobby where install is everything, comparing things on a sound board or in a bad installation isn't a valid comparison so don't use that either.

To the OP, sorry to diverge but it was a necessary response as I don't want you to be misled. What you should do is take a little bit of advice from this thread and go listen to the different speakers installed in vehicles at stores that sell what is recommended here. Then pick the ones you like best.

///M5
02-28-2007, 12:35 AM
On the first remark, I know most good comonent sets can play bass to a certain extent, but for really good performance in the lower ranges (sub-100Hz) a subwoofer is pretty much necessary IMO. For a lot of people, the subwoofer is the first upgrade over the stock system. If a company assumes that people who puy their component speakers have already bought subwoofers, why would they spend extra time making the comps capable of playing very far into the subbass range? Hell even most of the higher-end comps I've looked at only play down to around 50 Hz according to the spec sheet. I can't prove what's on the mind of the people who run the audio companies. Just an observation I've made based on what I've seen and what I've read in a few audio mags.

On the second part, I never said that it would be a bad idea or waste of time to amp and deaden the REVs. ///M5 replied to my suggestion of the REVs in a way that I though implied that it was a bad idea to run the REVs on HU power (another suggestion he made in the post he responded to). I would never discourage someone from amping or deadening speakers. But the OP doesn't appear to want to buy an amp, and looks to be a beginner. So I simply suggested a solution that would fit his budget and that I believed would require minimal installation hassle for him based on the many reviews and suggestions I've seen for the REVs.

I am sorry that your installs are so poor that your mids can't play below 100hz. I would puke if I had to run my sub that high. The whole thing you are missing out on is that mid-bass >>> sub-bass.

DaveDSMer
02-28-2007, 02:41 AM
caustik another idea would be to just get 6.75" speakers.. if you didnt want to deal with a bracket and all that.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i35_6-3-4--speakers.html

DejaWiz
02-28-2007, 02:45 PM
Anyway, I've got a '96 Saturn SL2 which has the most panzycrap OEM speakers I've ever heard.

You should've heard my MKIV GTI Monsoon system. Cruddy muddy midbass and the highs were just so-so. Imaging ****** somethin' fierce. They had no right to call that a "premium" sound system and charge what they did for it.

Anyway, I can infer that you might benefit from a setup something like the following:

4 Channel Amp
Front Comps run off CH 1+2 of amp
Sub run off CH 3+4 bridged of amp.

If you were thinking you might like to take this route, what would your top budget be for everything? I'm confident the members here can recommend you some very decent equipment no matter what the budget is. Keep in mind things like wiring, sub box, etc.

Hintzyboy
02-28-2007, 06:00 PM
Actually I don't search you out at all, but you post out your *** all of the time. There is nothing that drives me nuts more than people giving out wrong information or E-gurgitating. I do offer a lot of help regularly, but in particular this site has to many jackalopes that offer advice that don't know what they are talking about. Just because you have read something doesn't mean that you should reiterate it. Currently I don't believe that you can tell the difference between bad and good advice and keep posting. Your posts **** me off therefore I call you out. Stop being an E-boner and I will leave you alone. IMO you have no right recommending something you haven't tried or have no personal experience with. On top of that in a hobby where install is everything, comparing things on a sound board or in a bad installation isn't a valid comparison so don't use that either.

To the OP, sorry to diverge but it was a necessary response as I don't want you to be misled. What you should do is take a little bit of advice from this thread and go listen to the different speakers installed in vehicles at stores that sell what is recommended here. Then pick the ones you like best.

First off, seeing as I am a college student and have to pay my own way, I have neither the time nor the money to try out every speaker out there in multiple installs. As a result, I rely on the information of those who are more knowledgeable than myself, and those who have had hands-on experience with different products. I don't understand why I shouldn't spread the information obtained by others. I am not posting out of my ***, simply passing on information. If you don't like that, I couldn't care less. I will not refrain from passing on good information just because I didn't obtain it myself. This is a forum, sharing info is what it was created for.

Second, I really don't see how you have "offer a lot of help regularly" when you have only posted ~300 times in the whole time you've been a member. That is a post every ~2 days, and I find it hard to believe that every post you've made contained invaluable advice.

Third, your suggestion of going to different shops and listening to installs of the stuff you're interested doesn't necessarily work. For a lot of people, there aren't many shops near by. The shops that are available are small shops that don't have much for demo cars. Plus, a lot of the products that are talked about down here aren't readily available in shops. Hell some of them are only available directly from the manufacturer. Sometimes we are forced to rely on information rather than hands-on experience.(By the way, this info HAS come from personal experience.)

Just jump off your high horse for a while and realize that you are not the only person in the world who knows anything.

Hintzyboy
02-28-2007, 06:06 PM
I am sorry that your installs are so poor that your mids can't play below 100hz. I would puke if I had to run my sub that high. The whole thing you are missing out on is that mid-bass >>> sub-bass.

I am not saying that mids can't play that low. But they have a harder time playing those signals than those in the middle of the midrange. I doubt you'll find many speakers out there that can reproduce all audible frequencies accurately(hence the creation of subs, midbass woofers, midranges, and tweets). Like I said, even most high-end components are only spec'd to play to around 50 Hz or so. Common sense should tell you that the speakers will have a harder time reproducing frequencies that approach its limits.

DejaWiz
02-28-2007, 06:12 PM
I have neither the time nor the money to try out every speaker out there in multiple installs. As a result, I rely on the information of those who are more knowledgeable than myself, and those who have had hands-on experience with different products. I don't understand why I shouldn't spread the information obtained by others. I am not posting out of my ***, simply passing on information. If you don't like that, I couldn't care less. I will not refrain from passing on good information just because I didn't obtain it myself. This is a forum, sharing info is what it was created for.

I'm going to have to agree with you on this one, Hintzy. Especially those that do possess the direct experience but choose to slander an opening post simply by replying with the words "just do a search". That really torques my hide. How about those that are guilty of that take 30 seconds out of your busy holier-than-thou lives and give the person some real help already. We are all noobs at one point in life and have to ask in order to learn. Don't ever forget that.







forum (http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/forum)
noun
1. a public meeting or assembly for open discussion

Hintzyboy
02-28-2007, 06:14 PM
I'm going to have to agree with you on this one, Hintzy. Especially those that do possess the direct experience but choose to slander an opening post simply by replying with the words "just do a search". That really torques my hide. Take 30 seconds out of your busy holier-than-thou life and give the person some real help already.

Thanks Deja.

DejaWiz
02-28-2007, 06:39 PM
Where might I find said setup? Crutchfield is offering $300 for the amp and $130 for the sub alone, not to mention I would need cables and a box.

Or am I correct in getting the impression that Crutchfield is only where the n00bs shop? (Which of course what I am as far as car audio goes)

SonicElectronix is a decent place to buy from. I've never had a problem and their Tech Support is pretty decent for the most part. Check sounddomain.com as well. Hint - Both SE and SD will price match competitors (shipping fees factored).

Sub (http://sonicelectronix.com/item_7289.html) - $90

AMP -
Any decent amp that will make 500-700W RMS at 2 Ohms.
Xenon X600.1 or Kicker KX600.1 Amp would be my choice picks- est about $200-250...search the FS Subforum or eBay

Sub Box - est $20-50, depending on vendor.
Buy a sheet of 3/4" MDF from a lumber yard/home improvement store and make one yourself (if you have the means and the tools to do so).
-Sealed - You'll only need about 0.5-0.75cf volume.
-Ported - You'll need 1.0-2.0cf volume (plus the port volume).

Wiring -
Check out www.knukonceptz.com (http://www.knukonceptz.com) figure about $75-100 max.

I'd really recommend getting some comps up front and running a 2CH amp as well.

Hintzyboy
03-01-2007, 12:04 AM
SonicElectronix is a decent place to buy from. I've never had a problem and their Tech Support is pretty decent for the most part. Check sounddomain.com as well. Hint - Both SE and SD will price match competitors (shipping fees factored).

Sub (http://sonicelectronix.com/item_7289.html) - $90

AMP -
Any decent amp that will make 500-700W RMS at 2 Ohms.
Xenon X600.1 or Kicker KX600.1 Amp would be my choice picks- est about $200-250...search the FS Subforum or eBay

Sub Box - est $20-50, depending on vendor.
Buy a sheet of 3/4" MDF from a lumber yard/home improvement store and make one yourself (if you have the means and the tools to do so).
-Sealed - You'll only need about 0.5-0.75cf volume.
-Ported - You'll need 1.0-2.0cf volume (plus the port volume).

Wiring -
Check out www.knukonceptz.com (http://www.knukonceptz.com) figure about $75-100 max.

I'd really recommend getting some comps up front and running a 2CH amp as well.

This setup would work very nicely for you. FYI, check HERE (http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137804) for a bunch of plans for ported boxes.

And if you do decied to get some comps, I can hook you up with a nice used amp at a good price if you're interested.

///M5
03-01-2007, 01:12 AM
First off, seeing as I am a college student and have to pay my own way, I have neither the time nor the money to try out every speaker out there in multiple installs. As a result, I rely on the information of those who are more knowledgeable than myself, and those who have had hands-on experience with different products. I don't understand why I shouldn't spread the information obtained by others. I am not posting out of my ***, simply passing on information. If you don't like that, I couldn't care less. I will not refrain from passing on good information just because I didn't obtain it myself. This is a forum, sharing info is what it was created for.

Second, I really don't see how you have "offer a lot of help regularly" when you have only posted ~300 times in the whole time you've been a member. That is a post every ~2 days, and I find it hard to believe that every post you've made contained invaluable advice.

Third, your suggestion of going to different shops and listening to installs of the stuff you're interested doesn't necessarily work. For a lot of people, there aren't many shops near by. The shops that are available are small shops that don't have much for demo cars. Plus, a lot of the products that are talked about down here aren't readily available in shops. Hell some of them are only available directly from the manufacturer. Sometimes we are forced to rely on information rather than hands-on experience.(By the way, this info HAS come from personal experience.)

Just jump off your high horse for a while and realize that you are not the only person in the world who knows anything.

You are a tool, stop repeating stuff from people you only think you know. If you want to ask around about my post count being low it is for a different reason, not that I don't help people. I definitely wouldn't call e-gurgitation helping people. You offer advice on something you have no clue about and expect that it is okay because someone you think you know that knows more than you said it, but you don't really know that they know more than you. I would say BS you don't know chit about what you are repeating. People like you are the reason boners on chit that ***** happen. You aren't being helpful, but are the reason that more audio educated people avoid this board and spend time on others. Considering the traffic here I think that *****.

///M5
03-01-2007, 01:14 AM
I am not saying that mids can't play that low. But they have a harder time playing those signals than those in the middle of the midrange. I doubt you'll find many speakers out there that can reproduce all audible frequencies accurately(hence the creation of subs, midbass woofers, midranges, and tweets). Like I said, even most high-end components are only spec'd to play to around 50 Hz or so. Common sense should tell you that the speakers will have a harder time reproducing frequencies that approach its limits.
Huge difference between 50 & 100hz, but either way you are just reinforcing my opinion of you.

caustik_bt
03-01-2007, 02:42 AM
Forgive my n00bishness, but whats the deal with comps and rear decks? I haven't seen a single mention of what to do with the rear deck if I get comps for the front. If I get nice comps in the front (with amp), should I not even bother with the rear deck? Or should I get some semi-decent coax's to replace the stock ones?

If someone could explain in detail that would be awwwwwwwsssome.

As for my budget, I hope to do less damage than $500 for speakers and sub. $200 for speakers and $300 for sub. I probably would greatly benefit from a 4 channel amp setup, but that requires me to take a much deeper plunge rather than doing speakers and sub upgrades separately.

DejaWiz
03-01-2007, 09:25 AM
Forgive my n00bishness, but whats the deal with comps and rear decks? I haven't seen a single mention of what to do with the rear deck if I get comps for the front. If I get nice comps in the front (with amp), should I not even bother with the rear deck? Or should I get some semi-decent coax's to replace the stock ones?

If someone could explain in detail that would be awwwwwwwsssome.


Don't even worry about the rear deck. Having a good set of comps up front and a sub in back is all you will need for setting a better soundstage and imaging than just about any factory system could afford. In fact, having rear speakers usually deteriorates the listening experience once you get used to not having it (for me and many others here, anyway). But then again, it's all subjective. Some people prefer to have rear fill, others do not. I say start with no rear fill and then maybe hook up your factory speakers to the HU and see which you like better.

caustik_bt
03-01-2007, 01:38 PM
Ok, so it sounds like for really good performance for the driver, disregard rear fill. So how does it end up sounding for other passengers? I'd like good sound for chillin with my friends filling up the car. Additionally, the most "critical" use of a good sound system for me would be driving to and from concerts, blasting metal. (ie: Its at those times that I really really desire good sound) Of course though, these reasons might not justify spending an extra $150.

Anyway, I just remembered another factor in my decisions. I don't plan on keeping the car for a long time, and investing in a $600 system that I can only scrap the sub and enclosure would probably not be of the wisest decisions. With that in mind, a component system is less attractive.

An alternative route from the 4 channel amp idea, would be to get the components with a cheap 2-ch amp. What are your thoughts on the cheap amps out there? (sub $75)

Phoenix Gold R2.5:2 (http://sonicelectronix.com/item_1584.html)
Power Acoustik PS2-300 (http://sonicelectronix.com/item_6210.html)

DejaWiz
03-01-2007, 04:24 PM
1. Ok, so it sounds like for really good performance for the driver, disregard rear fill. So how does it end up sounding for other passengers? I'd like good sound for chillin with my friends filling up the car. Additionally, the most "critical" use of a good sound system for me would be driving to and from concerts, blasting metal. (ie: Its at those times that I really really desire good sound) Of course though, these reasons might not justify spending an extra $150.

2. Anyway, I just remembered another factor in my decisions. I don't plan on keeping the car for a long time, and investing in a $600 system that I can only scrap the sub and enclosure would probably not be of the wisest decisions. With that in mind, a component system is less attractive.

3. An alternative route from the 4 channel amp idea, would be to get the components with a cheap 2-ch amp. What are your thoughts on the cheap amps out there? (sub $75)

Phoenix Gold R2.5:2 (http://sonicelectronix.com/item_1584.html)
Power Acoustik PS2-300 (http://sonicelectronix.com/item_6210.html)

1. If you image the fronts correctly, everyone will enjoy them without the need for rear fill.

2. Keep all the current equipment and put those back in when it's time to get rid of the car. If anything can't be reused in the replacement vehicle, eBay then or sell them here to recoup as much money as you can. You can buy rubber plugs in various sizes from a hardware store to fill in tweeter holes after the comps are removed.

3. PG isn't bad, check out Profile amps at millionbuy.com

jomo
03-02-2007, 02:57 AM
.....so obviously not a component system......Preferably less than $100 per pair.......

But you can get good components for under $100......I installed these http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5207 in our Mazda 3 last month and after about 10 hours of burn in, they sound really nice. Very "midrangey" the first few hours. Woofersetc.com actually send you CL-61a's. They have much more detail than stock and punchy, deep bass. I am running them off the HU amp as well. I doubt you will find much better sound for under $100 shipped.

Hintzyboy
03-02-2007, 11:13 AM
You can always look around the classifieds for a decent set of used ones. And, like was mentioned earlier, you'd benefit more from one set of good comps up front imaged correctly and stock or no rear fill. If you decide to spend all of your money on the fronts, it opens up a lot of options for you. There are TONS of decent comp sets out there in the $200 range. If you can spring for the extra dough, I've heard a lot of good stuff about THESE (http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5091). At more than $400 less than retail, it's a pretty **** good deal. Otherwise, judt do asearch in this section. There are quite a few threads out there on $200 component sets.