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500000watts
11-18-2006, 09:04 PM
i think i pretty much got the fiberglassin down, its really not that hard, i havent done to much of it to find out but what ive done came pretty easy.

now the hard part for me is paint, what do you use?

glossy spray paint, airbrush paint, mixes of types of paint?

thatkidbob
11-18-2006, 11:31 PM
ANy paint can look good... you can get a pro quality finish out of regular ol rattlecan paint...

the main things are prep work and spraying technique...

you'll want to use a good filler like evercoat rage, and work it with 100 grit until you've got the shape you want... at this point it should fell decently smooth. Move up to 330 until you've done all you can. Then apply a glaze like evercoat metal glaze or an icing (filler mixed with fiberglass resin), and sand the crap out of it with that 330. Once you've got a nice cmooth surface, you'll want to prime it with 2 or 3 coats of high build primer. This will need light sanding. your surface has to be absolutely clean before spraying... i like to use acetone and then wash with soap and water... Then spray a gloss black guide coat to see if there are any imperfections... go back and address these. Then prime again, spray your color, then spray your clear... use multiple coats of clear, then go back and wetsand (800, 1000, 2000)to get a nice glossy finish.

Remember light coats are always going to be better than heavy coats... and improvise a spray booth if possible... a good sized cardboard box can do the trick...

and thats about all i can tell ya... good luck.

500000watts
11-19-2006, 12:59 AM
sounds good, ill try it.
now what are some of the types of fiberglassing? and what methods and materials do the pro installers use?

orphe
11-19-2006, 01:38 AM
sounds good, ill try it.
now what are some of the types of fiberglassing? and what methods and materials do the pro installers use?

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1880833#post1880833
and
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36873

Dtrickz
11-19-2006, 02:32 AM
ANy paint can look good... you can get a pro quality finish out of regular ol rattlecan paint...

the main things are prep work and spraying technique...

you'll want to use a good filler like evercoat rage, and work it with 100 grit until you've got the shape you want... at this point it should fell decently smooth. Move up to 330 until you've done all you can. Then apply a glaze like evercoat metal glaze or an icing (filler mixed with fiberglass resin), and sand the crap out of it with that 330. Once you've got a nice cmooth surface, you'll want to prime it with 2 or 3 coats of high build primer. This will need light sanding. your surface has to be absolutely clean before spraying... i like to use acetone and then wash with soap and water... Then spray a gloss black guide coat to see if there are any imperfections... go back and address these. Then prime again, spray your color, then spray your clear... use multiple coats of clear, then go back and wetsand (800, 1000, 2000)to get a nice glossy finish.

Remember light coats are always going to be better than heavy coats... and improvise a spray booth if possible... a good sized cardboard box can do the trick...

and thats about all i can tell ya... good luck.


Well i guide coat after i primer the first time and sand it all down til the blacks gone..guide coat is just misting spray paint over the primer so it shows scratches, low spots, pin holes, etc...then wash it and wipe it off with acetone or some kind of prep then follow with a tack cloth...also after u paint and clear, sand with 1500 or 2000 anything lower will make scratches hard to get out on darker colors...but dont sand unless u wanna buff it...hes right with the more light coats is better than heavy coats

Ctminime
11-19-2006, 02:47 AM
after u paint and clear, sand with 1500 or 2000 anything lower will make scratches hard to get out on darker colors...but dont sand unless u wanna buff it...hes right with the more light coats is better than heavy coats

even sanding with that high grit sand paper its a good idea to wet sand.... then buff after that.... i like to clean surfaces with peroxide.... it dries everything out nice and cleans good... not to mention that its cheap as hell haha

500000watts
11-19-2006, 10:59 AM
ok i have a question, when they get the mold, they then put in the mdf rings and supoort it up with wooden dowels, when they rap it in felt wouldint that make the middle of the model different, i mean where the end of the mold stops and where the begging of the felt starts, wouldint it make big seem?

500000watts
11-20-2006, 04:39 PM
will this get me that nice wet paint look but feels like a nice waxed car, cuz i know spray paint even when dry has a the feel of sticky rough paint

ramos
11-20-2006, 04:50 PM
If your wanting glossy glass "wet" looking paint . The idea is pretty much the same regardless of the substrate or kind of paint be it rattle cans or auto paint . Sand substrate smooth as a babies arse . couple coats of primer . Sand baby arse smooth again . I tend to use 1-2 coats of primer sealer before I paint. Then several light coats of color. ALWAYS wet sand the color. Don't sand through the color , or your gonna have to shoot color again . Once your color is baby arse smooth . Hit it with a couple coats of clear coat . Once the clear is dried completely , wet sand lightly with 2500 grit to get any orange peel . Then buff it with some rubbing compound. When your painting make always make sure you clean the surface thoroughly , and tack it before your next coat . :)

yne721
11-20-2006, 04:54 PM
Well i guide coat after i primer the first time and sand it all down til the blacks gone..guide coat is just misting spray paint over the primer so it shows scratches, low spots, pin holes, etc...then wash it and wipe it off with acetone or some kind of prep then follow with a tack cloth...also after u paint and clear, sand with 1500 or 2000 anything lower will make scratches hard to get out on darker colors...but dont sand unless u wanna buff it...hes right with the more light coats is better than heavy coats

guide coat is pretty much useless unless you're doing something really flat, like a body panel or something. but to each his own. it would just be a waste of time IMO.

but that's coming from a trained eye that can see all that stuff without guide coat.

ramos
11-20-2006, 04:57 PM
Paint as a guide coat is more trouble than it's worth imo . If and when I use a guide coat . I use black marking powder from lowes , and a big cosmetic pad to dab it on :)

yne721
11-20-2006, 04:58 PM
will this get me that nice wet paint look but feels like a nice waxed car, cuz i know spray paint even when dry has a the feel of sticky rough paint

wetsand it if you want a smooth feel to it.

you'll also need to buff it

yne721
11-20-2006, 05:00 PM
Paint as a guide coat is more trouble than it's worth imo . If and when I use a guide coat . I use black marking powder from lowes , and a big cosmetic pad to dab it on :)

finally someone that knows.

this shop i used to work at had some really nice guide coat. it was in an aerosol can, but it was pretty much just black powder that was kind of sticky. not paint though. it was nice, i wish i knew the name of it so i could buy a couple cans. that would come in handy doing the cars in my garage

500000watts
11-20-2006, 10:45 PM
what do you mean ( tac it ) before your next coat, are you talking about that stuff they use on wood, its like brown cloth thats sticky and they wipe would with it before staining?

also when you say to clean the surface with aceatone, wouldint that strip the paint and filler and all that right off?

500000watts
11-20-2006, 10:49 PM
and with the evercoat metal glaze, they didint have that at the store i went to but they had this other type of like bondo glaze or something, its a red paste so i used that, i also got bondo body filler cuz they didint have evercoat anything there,

when you said i could mix the body filler with fiberglass resin to get my glaze do i use hardener with that mix, and if i do use hardener do i use body fill hardener or resin hardener

thatkidbob
11-21-2006, 01:04 AM
bondo filler is OK. you can get good results with it, but it sands like ***, and you'll usually get pinholes no matter how careful you are with it...

the bondo glaze is the same way... its so hard to sand that you can often introduce new stuff that you need to get out while trying to sand it...

For your next batch of filler and glaze, buy evercoat... after using bondo you'll REALLY appreciate spending the extra bucks to buy it off the net...


Well i guide coat after i primer the first time and sand it all down til the blacks goneme too... i musta been on crack when i wrote that lol... basically, as long as you take your time, fix all the errors, and you aren't afraid of going back a few steps to remedy a problem, you'll end up with a good finish...


but that's coming from a trained eye that can see all that stuff without guide coat.haha, yeah my eye is only ok... i don't paint just a whole lot. i can only spot the most egregious errors without a guide coat... if you don't need it, skip it by all means, because it CAN be problematic to use paint as your guide coat...

ramos
11-21-2006, 08:33 AM
what do you mean ( tack it ) before your next coat, are you talking about that stuff they use on wood, its like brown cloth thats sticky and they wipe would with it before staining?

also when you say to clean the surface with acetone, wouldn't that strip the paint and filler and all that right off?

Next time your in wally world or an auto parts store . Check the automotive paint section for tack cloth . 3M makes one that they sell for like a $1 . It's basically a sticky rag , that removes any dust or debris from the surface before you paint . While we are on the subject . Always wear rubber gloves once you start cleaning and prepping for paint. Nothing will kill a paint job quicker than an oily fingerprint left behind.

I only use acetone on the unpainted surface . Once the filler is cured , quick wiping with acetone won't remove it . But I wouldn't recommend it on paint . :)

ramos
11-21-2006, 08:36 AM
and with the evercoat metal glaze, they didint have that at the store i went to but they had this other type of like bondo glaze or something, its a red paste so i used that, i also got bondo body filler cuz they didint have evercoat anything there,

when you said i could mix the body filler with fiberglass resin to get my glaze do i use hardener with that mix, and if i do use hardener do i use body fill hardener or resin hardener


Nothing wrong with bondo spot filler , if you use it as intended . I don't use any glaze most of the time . I smooth the filler to the point the only blemishes in the surface are tiny pin holes . Then go to town with some high build polyester primer . I spray it real well in the pin holes . Don't worry if it runs , your gonna sand it anyway :)

dbornotdb
11-21-2006, 09:44 AM
If it is a big surface, say anything over a dash trim panel, I guide coat it.
But I use a flat black spray paint misted on. The flat black dries quicker than a glossy, and it is only 98 cents a can and can last awhile.
I suggest it, no matter how trained you think your eye is.

500000watts
11-21-2006, 01:24 PM
ok now the other night i painted a pice of board i fiberglassed to see how the color and paint would come out the way you told me, it looked just how i wanted it to exept when i would touch it it would leave prints real easey and almost look smuged, i let it dry for a good 30 minutes under a fan and i could press my fingern nail into the paint, it seems like the clear coat finish was kinda soft after drying almost..

is there a way i can finish my paint job like the pros with a heavy duty Gel Coat like they put on boats and stuff to give it a nice sturdy hard finish?

ramos
11-21-2006, 01:27 PM
Your not giving the paint long enough time to cure fully . Unless your baking it in an oven . It can take days , weeks even if it's cold :)

ramos
11-21-2006, 01:30 PM
And if you want to get technical . Paint cures harder than gel coat does :)

500000watts
11-21-2006, 02:15 PM
ok so all i have to do is give it more time?

another question is how can i get my stuff to dry faster, fiber resin, filler, glazing, and painting, i have a heat gun but would it be to much heat to blow on it with that from about 3 feet back?

ramos
11-21-2006, 02:38 PM
Yep just give it more time . Auto paints tend to cure quicker than household stuff as well

Polyester resin you can add a little more catalyst , or you can use the heat gun . Filler I wouldn't mix hot , or use the heat gun. If it's not starting to setup in 10 minutes or so , your not using enough catalyst. It's easier to knock down the ridges with a cheese grater if you don't mix it hot also. As for paint , I would at least wait for it to dry tack free . Then if the heat gun is adjustable or really low heat ( hair dryer hot ) you could use it sparingly . Paint is tough to speed up without and oven . Cause there is so much chit that can go wrong and fook up all your hard work :)

500000watts
11-21-2006, 08:05 PM
whats mixing hot mean, and is catalyst the hardener?

so when i black guide coat it what it looks like then is what it will look like when im done?

thatkidbob
11-21-2006, 09:50 PM
mixing hot is using more than the suggested ratio of hardener for your temperature/amount of filler.

i like to mix my resin hot when i'm sealing the inside of boxes because it REALLY cuts down on wait time...

500000watts
11-21-2006, 10:04 PM
sealing the inside of your box?

how about this, I was trying to come up with an idea to get an extra glossy shine, so im thinking about doing it this way. tell me what you think.

prime my fiberglass, tac it down, do that 3 times, then put on my color which is going to be white, tac that down and then follow up witha layer of clear coat, then buff the clear coat with rubbing compound then another layer of white over that and repeat several times, then for the last just like 5 layers of clear coat and buffingeach layer as i go and for the last layer just buff it for like 10 minutes.

how would that turn out, or should i just stick with what you told me earlyer if it wont make much difference?

ramos
11-22-2006, 08:29 AM
whats mixing hot mean, and is catalyst the hardener?




Addind more catalyst (MEKP) makes the resin cure faster . But be careful cause there is such a thing as too hot . If you mix the resin too hot , it will shrink and crack whn curing.






so when i black guide coat it what it looks like then is what it will look like when im done?


Nah , you don't want to use that much paint for a guide coat . The idea behind the guide coat is to give you something to sand off . As your sanding you will notice high spots ( first places the paint dissapears ) and low places ( last places the paint dissapears ) . :)

ramos
11-22-2006, 08:33 AM
sealing the inside of your box?

how about this, I was trying to come up with an idea to get an extra glossy shine, so im thinking about doing it this way. tell me what you think.

prime my fiberglass, tac it down, do that 3 times, then put on my color which is going to be white, tac that down and then follow up witha layer of clear coat, then buff the clear coat with rubbing compound then another layer of white over that and repeat several times, then for the last just like 5 layers of clear coat and buffingeach layer as i go and for the last layer just buff it for like 10 minutes.

how would that turn out, or should i just stick with what you told me earlyer if it wont make much difference?


No need , and would probably end up making it look worse . When you color sand with 1000 grit , it may feel slick as glass to your hand . But it still has some rough texture . The paint needs this rough texture to have something to stick too. I would stick to the plan that was laid out earlier . I'll post some pics of the pods I made for my boat later tonight when I get home . It will give you an idea of the finish this method can produce :)

500000watts
11-22-2006, 03:18 PM
awsome

my clear coat looks kinda dull, i layered it about 3 times and it isnt cuttin it the way i was expecting, im thinking its the clear coat i have, i bought Krylon clear coat but instead of getting Glossy like i knew i should of the store guy told me i wanted sattin, since it was only about 3 bucks i just went with what he said but im guessing the sattin is what is giving it a dull look, or i hope anyway cuz i really was hoping it would look alot better then that/


the internet also says if you want a really fine layer of paint from spray paint cans to let them sit in warm water for a few minutes, they say it loosens up the paint and gives it a finer spray?

xtremekustomz
11-23-2006, 12:46 AM
Here's what I do.

Make my framework.
Wrap with fleece.
Fiberglass using resin and matt on the fleece.
Use a grinder to knock down high spots.
Apply body filler.
Sand filler with 80 grit to get shape and go back over with 180
Prime
Wipe down with Dupont Final Clean
Sand with 400 grit
Paint
Tack wipe
Clear 3 coats

If you get your technique good enough and use a high quality gune you don't have to go through the steps of color sanding unless you just want to. And you actually sand the clear, not the color. Sanding the color will screw up the paint. Also you don't want to use any harsh chemicals to wipe down the primer. It will take some of the material off. I painted a black box and didn't have to color sand or anything.

http://www.undefinedcustoms.com/images/console1.jpg
More at www.undefinedcustoms.com/memberrides/daryl

heyman421
11-23-2006, 01:09 AM
god ****! that's ****, xtk

bibby
11-23-2006, 01:18 AM
holy **** at that dash! If your selling the truck, with no dash, what is happening to that dash, and how much would you carge for one similar. Same year model truck.

xtremekustomz
11-23-2006, 09:17 AM
holy **** at that dash! If your selling the truck, with no dash, what is happening to that dash, and how much would you carge for one similar. Same year model truck.

I sold the one that is in it. And as for how much one would cost, it really depends on the design and what is going in it. A dash is a ton of work.

500000watts
11-24-2006, 05:43 PM
wow thats really nice work, i wasnt expecting it to be that nice.
so you say thats just with spray paint?
how do you get the spray paint even on the top and bottom, do you hang it and spray it all at once or start on one side and let dry and do the other side?

another thing im worried about with spray paint is i think in the summer when it gets hot and the sun is shinning on it i feel like it would make the paint soft and sticky.

but yeh thats really nice work, ill put a pic up of my project when i get it all done

xtremekustomz
11-25-2006, 10:23 AM
wow thats really nice work, i wasnt expecting it to be that nice.
so you say thats just with spray paint?
how do you get the spray paint even on the top and bottom, do you hang it and spray it all at once or start on one side and let dry and do the other side?

another thing im worried about with spray paint is i think in the summer when it gets hot and the sun is shinning on it i feel like it would make the paint soft and sticky.

but yeh thats really nice work, ill put a pic up of my project when i get it all done

It is Dupont automotive paint and clear

500000watts
11-25-2006, 10:24 AM
another thing i see alot on painting is they will put to colors down, like a red or black base and then they will paint over all the base with there real color?
why dont they just put the real color on first if they wont even see the one underneath?

xtremekustomz
11-25-2006, 04:47 PM
another thing i see alot on painting is they will put to colors down, like a red or black base and then they will paint over all the base with there real color?
why dont they just put the real color on first if they wont even see the one underneath?

They are probably putting a candy or pearl over the top of the basecoat. It will drastically change the color of the base and kinda gives you a custom color.

500000watts
11-26-2006, 11:37 AM
is there a site or something where they talk about all the different types of painting and tips and stuff?

i also finished one of my first pods i think it turned out really good, ill put some pics up later today

500000watts
11-26-2006, 02:49 PM
here is my first pod for my tweeter that i finished today,

i primed, sanded, cleaned, painted all white, misted red, misted black, wetsand with 1500 and then about 3 coats of clear coat, and this is what it turned out like.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f250/hyperlite270/paintjobone.jpg


http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f250/hyperlite270/paint2.jpg


http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f250/hyperlite270/paint3.jpg


http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f250/hyperlite270/paint4.jpg

500000watts
11-27-2006, 01:27 PM
your technuqiue worked very good, i was very impressed with the paint job i got with a can of 2 dolloar spray paint..

im working on an amp rack right now and im gona try to put a face pushing through it so ill put some pics of my progress of that on here if anyone would like to see

500000watts
11-27-2006, 01:29 PM
the multi color is hard though, i wanted to take the red and let it fade gradually to white, but i really dont think that kinda work can be done with a spray paint can, so i threw in a little black mist to off set the crappy job i did fading the red

xtremekustomz
11-27-2006, 02:24 PM
the multi color is hard though, i wanted to take the red and let it fade gradually to white, but i really dont think that kinda work can be done with a spray paint can, so i threw in a little black mist to off set the crappy job i did fading the red

you need an airbrush to fade something like that.