View Full Version : what to look for in a good component amp
11-09-2006, 01:36 PM
im going to be needing a 4 ch amp for my components and im just wondering what do you look for in a amp for your speakers verses amps for subwoofers, i know they have different crossovers and gain settings but what is it you really want in a good component amp?
11-09-2006, 01:37 PM
just proper power. i usually use external xovers
11-09-2006, 01:43 PM
yeh my boston S60 came with a x-over, im lookin for an amp to put out about 50RMS on 4 ch.
so if it comes with x-over then you dont really need any specific amp, just something that gives them the rated power?
11-09-2006, 01:45 PM
i was thinking you were running active for some reason, but all you need is some sort of hp filter. look for something that fits your budget that does 50 x4
11-09-2006, 01:49 PM
you will want the amp to be very clean,a low THD level, the cleaner the sound the amp produces the better your mid's and hi's will sound.
11-09-2006, 01:50 PM
im still confused on the different types of x-overs. can someone help me with that quick so i understand better?
maybe that will help me with my decision
11-09-2006, 02:22 PM
If you're looking for excellent build quality, clean power, and crystal clear sound for your comps, you should consider buying this amp from me. This will make your comps perform the way they were meant to:
Alpine Expert MRV F505 4 channel amp --
· 4/3/2 Channel Operation
· Mosfet Power Supply
· DC-DC PWM Power Supply
· No Current Limiting
· Double Buffered Pre-Amp Input Circuitry
· Discrete Pre-Amp Stage
· MOSFET Final Outputs
· DC Straight Design
· STAR Circuitry
· Duo B Feedback Circuit
· Solid Copper Bus Bars
· Top Mounted LED Power Indicator
· Independently Adjustable Crossover (HP/LP/BP Capability)
· Top Panel Adjustment of Crossover and Gain
· 4 Volt Straight Input Switch
· Input Mode Selector Switch
· Continuously Adjustable Gain Control
· Gold Plated RCA Input Connectors
· Extra Large Gold Plated Screw-Down Power Terminals
· Gold Plated Screw-Down Speaker Terminals
· Non-Fading Pre-Amp Output
RMS Power (at 12V, 20Hz—20kHz)
Per channel into 4 ohms .........................50W x 4 (0.08% THD)
Per channel into 2 ohms .........................65W x 4 (0.3% THD)
Bridged 4 ohms .....................................130W x 2 (0.3% THD)
RMS Power (at 14.4V, 20Hz—20kHz)
Per channel into 4 ohms .........................75W x 4 (0.08% THD)
Per channel into 2 ohms .........................100W x 4 (0.3% THD)
Bridged 4 ohms .....................................200W x 2 (0.3% THD)
Frequency Response ..............................10Hz—50KHz(+0,-1dB)
Signal to Noise (S/N) .............................105 dBA (referenced to rated power)
Input Sensitivity (for rated power) ...........200mV to 4V
Slew Factor ..........................................Greater than 5
Input Impedance ..................................10k ohms
Speaker Impedance ..............................4 or 2 Ohms (stereo), 4 ohms (bridged)
Dividing Network ..................................50Hz—8000Hz HP/LP/Bandpass(12dB/octave)
Power Requirements .............................11—16V DC (negative ground)
Heat Sink (WxHxD):
240mm x 53mm x 400mm (9-7/16"x2-1/16"x15-3/4")
Foot Print (WxHxD):
260mm x 53mm x 400mm (10-1/4"x2-1/16"x15-3/4")
11-09-2006, 04:28 PM
Way to pimp your $#it on someone's info thread! I've saw people throw in an offer here and there, but wow - that's a straight up for sale thread you posted!
11-09-2006, 04:44 PM
Um, yeah, that was random...
Anyway, how many speakers are you looking to power? Four?
If you're using passives, and powering a front-stage set of components, you really only need a two channel amp. The passive divides up the power from each channel between the midwoofer and the tweeter.
So, you just want something close to the RMS wattage of the speaker.
If you need to power two pairs of components, then you're looking for a 4-channel. Again, you want something around the RMS wattage.
If the components brought passive crossovers, you really don't need the crossovers on the amp so much, except maybe to set a low-pass to keep subbass frequencies (somewhere between 80 and 100 hz. and below) off the components.
11-09-2006, 09:54 PM
these thd and signal to noise ratio's aren't even audible to the human ear so don't get caught it up in looking at thd and s/n numbers
11-09-2006, 10:38 PM
what are some brands of amps i should look for?
and is it really worth amping my comps, i have heard that you can turn the volume up more before distortion and your comps will sound clearer and more full?
11-09-2006, 11:06 PM
here are some i found
what do you think i should go with?
or if there are any other ones i should look at simmular to this?
do all of these have the ratings i want?
11-09-2006, 11:09 PM
of the amps you posted, the jl would be my choice. good power and regulated power supply
11-09-2006, 11:32 PM
yeh thats the one im leaning towards, do you think that will treat my bostons nice?
does it have all the good specs of a comp amp im lookin for?
11-09-2006, 11:33 PM
sure but idk if i would buy it there. they are unauthorized and have a no return policy.
11-09-2006, 11:34 PM
you dont think 75 RMS output will hurt a 50 RMS component speaker do you?
i think its 150 RMS max ( my bostons ) so i would guess they would be aright, what do you think?
11-09-2006, 11:38 PM
im not sure i can throw that kind of money down on a speaker amp right now though, so if i had to what would your next pick be?
im lookin to spend in the 100 - 150 range
11-10-2006, 12:38 AM
OK, slow down. I still am not sure why you want a 4 channel amp. Tell me, how many sets of speakers are you powering?
Yes, the power will make a difference over what's coming out of your headunit, and no, having more power than you speakers are rated for won't hurt them as long as you set the gains on the amplifier right. If you don't understand what that means, you need to do a bit of studying or you might endanger those speakers.
Just so there isn't any confusion, write a list of ALL of your hardware.
11-10-2006, 11:17 AM
i have a Kenwood KDCMP4 or somethin like that for a head unit, cant remember the exact modle.
i have rockford RCA's
Rockford P3002 amp running 2 10'' pioneers and 1 12'' RF all wired to 4 ohm.
i have boston S60's in the front and some ****** blaupunkts in the back, ( which i will be changeing to another set of comps soon )
so when i eventualy get my other comps i will be running 2 sets of component speakers, ( 4 speakers total )
thats why im looking for a 4ch, unless you would think its better to go with a 2ch 100 by 2 and just wire them in paralel to one channel so they both get about 50?
11-10-2006, 05:02 PM
Two 10" subs and a 12"? I hope the drivers are in seperate, sealed partitions in the enclosure...
Um, I don't see a reason, personally, to put components in the rear and if you just use them for rear-fill or for passengers, I'd leave the Blaus where they are and just concentrate on the front stage. Power the rears off the head unit and leave well enough alone (unless you're doing the surround-sound 5.1 thing, which it doesn't appear you are).
This will save you money on the amplifier.
As for your final suggestion, I'm not sure I know what you're talking about. Running 4 components in parallel off a 2-channel amp? I'm not sure what you mean, but no scenario I can think of ends in a good way. Don't do that.
11-10-2006, 08:00 PM
yeh each drive has its own chamber.
no i like rear fill, and i plan on getting another set of comps to replace the blaupunkts,
anyway they are going in my boat this summer so im gona need all 4 speakers to be as loud as possible.
11-10-2006, 08:12 PM
I'm currently running a 4.65 from Tru. Its there lowest end amp but they are pretty high end of a company. They can be picked up on eBay for about 150 at times. And you can send them in for all kinds of upgrades if you want. I have done the burr-brown upgrade and I am sending it in for the Audio Control upgrade real soon. I believe mine was rated at 83X4 and its sounds GREAT! Old school PPI sound pretty good too, and can be gotten for a decent price around eBay as well.