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View Full Version : best mid-bass-mid-range driver for the buck???



SQBubble
07-18-2006, 10:57 PM
anyone know a pretty dammn good woofer for the buck that could play from 80hz to 2.6khz nice and loud, espacially mid-bass, (80hz-250hz)(6.5inch or 7inch)

thx

Fast1one
07-18-2006, 10:59 PM
AA Poly mids....35 a pop cant be beat...

alphakenny1
07-18-2006, 11:01 PM
AA Poly mids....35 a pop cant be beat...

negative, dayton reference 7" 4 ohm version 32.70 per.....http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-374

UndercoverPunk
07-18-2006, 11:01 PM
polys, or extremii... although the latter probably isn't cheap to most people.

Worlddre
07-18-2006, 11:03 PM
daytons arent worth a whole lot passed 2khz

96MaxGLE
07-18-2006, 11:03 PM
Definatly have heard good things about Dayton. You may want the check out madisound.com ... mostly 8ohm drivers, but some good choices. What's ur budget? Don't you drive a 4th gen?? If so look for 8's ;)

squeak9798
07-18-2006, 11:06 PM
negative, dayton reference 7" 4 ohm version 32.70 per.....http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-374

I don't think you'd want to run those up to 2.6khz

alphakenny1
07-18-2006, 11:08 PM
I don't think you'd want to run those up to 2.6khz

yea true but if cross at 2khz at whatever slope, it'll still play 2.6khz ;).

my lotus references are crossed at 800hz @ 12db and tweets at 2.5khz @ 12db and it sounded better then when i had the mids crossed at 1.6khz @ 12db. so don't be afraid of gaps.

snb778
07-18-2006, 11:11 PM
anyone know a pretty dammn good woofer for the buck that could play from 80hz to 2.6khz nice and loud, espacially mid-bass, (80hz-250hz)(6.5inch or 7inch)

thx


you lookin for midrange, or just woofer from 80-250Hz...then I just cant see any 8" midrange sounding to great....all that cone movement from an 8", along with vocal...better off getting seperate IMO at least thats what im going to do

Edit...then again ive never heard an 8" woofer used for midrange....just to woof.

squeak9798
07-18-2006, 11:14 PM
yea true but if cross at 2khz at whatever slope, it'll still play 2.6khz ;).

Well thank you for that course in crossovers 101 ;)


I was simply stating that, per the original post, it sounded like he was looking for a driver to be crossed at 2.6khz. Which would exclude the Daytons :p:

alphakenny1
07-18-2006, 11:18 PM
Well thank you for that course in crossovers 101 ;)


I was simply stating that, per the original post, it sounded like he was looking for a driver to be crossed at 2.6khz. Which would exclude the Daytons :p:

according to his original post, my post is still valid ;).

squeak9798
07-18-2006, 11:31 PM
according to his original post, my post is still valid ;).

Underlap worked for you....doesn't mean they'll work in every situation ;)

6spdcoupe
07-19-2006, 12:11 AM
Definatly have heard good things about Dayton. You may want the check out madisound.com ... mostly 8ohm drivers, but some good choices. What's ur budget? Don't you drive a 4th gen?? If so look for 8's ;)


More Maximas here? :)

SQBubble
07-19-2006, 12:15 AM
Definatly have heard good things about Dayton. You may want the check out madisound.com ... mostly 8ohm drivers, but some good choices. What's ur budget? Don't you drive a 4th gen?? If so look for 8's ;)

ya '96 i think its a 4th gen:)

i really dont wanna spend more than 100$ for 2woofer, ill just change the woofer of my polk component, im fed up with them...tweeter are very nice though.., its just the woofer really doesnt has mid-bass...i feel theres like a huge gap between the sub and mid-range whereas-mid-bass...




passive crossover is set @2.6khz, so basically i just want to swap !

djman37
07-19-2006, 12:19 AM
then TRY the AA polys. If you don't like 'em, sell them. Mine will be here tomorrow.

SQBubble
07-19-2006, 12:31 AM
I don't think you'd want to run those up to 2.6khz

x2

SQBubble
07-19-2006, 12:33 AM
then TRY the AA polys. If you don't like 'em, sell them. Mine will be here tomorrow.

i guess i will, i forgot those!!!
half of my system will be AA:naughty: loll


oh and i forgot, how much power yall givin' ur Poly mids?
i got 200rms each doors now with polk(gains little over half), yall think the poly could handle it?

atoz350
07-19-2006, 01:31 AM
Which polk components do you have?

SQBubble
07-19-2006, 01:39 AM
Which polk components do you have?


mmc5250
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mmc5250



it can get freakin' loud and still stay very clear, they are awsome for the money I paid, i like them alot, but it lacks mid-bass...

djman37
07-19-2006, 08:20 AM
i guess i will, i forgot those!!!
half of my system will be AA:naughty: loll


oh and i forgot, how much power yall givin' ur Poly mids?
i got 200rms each doors now with polk(gains little over half), yall think the poly could handle it?

i went ahead and picked up the arbiter TM set. the TWEETS can 450 for long periods of time, I wouldn't push an IB setup that hard. Maybe in a proper enclosure I'd go over 100rms.

camflan
07-24-2006, 04:56 PM
i went ahead and picked up the arbiter TM set. the TWEETS can 450 for long periods of time, I wouldn't push an IB setup that hard. Maybe in a proper enclosure I'd go over 100rms.


did you get the TM1 or TM2? the tm2 has the crossover, just wanted to see if you would be driving them active or passive.

post up a review once they are in and you listen to them, I was considering getting a pair to demo against my SEAS stuff. :thumbsup:

djman37
07-24-2006, 04:59 PM
did you get the TM1 or TM2? the tm2 has the crossover, just wanted to see if you would be driving them active or passive.

post up a review once they are in and you listen to them, I was considering getting a pair to demo against my SEAS stuff. :thumbsup:

sure, I got TM-1 since I am going active.

GordonW
07-24-2006, 05:07 PM
BTW... NO 8" woofer is going to do well, above 2KHz, in a typical car audio install.

The simple reason? The cone is too big, to properly handle the relatively short wavelengths of sound, above 2KHz, under these conditions.

An 8" woofer has a cone diameter of about 6" (inside the surround)... you don't want to try to use it above a frequency that has a wavelength of 6"... above that, sound from ONE side of the cone starts to greatly CANCEL OUT sound from the other side, off-axis, due to the delay caused by the speed of sound. Sound from the far side is delayed by the distance divided by the speed of sound, compared to that from the near side... at these frequencies, there is a LOT of cancellation, due to the phase shift from one side vs. the other.

For a 6" wavelength, the corresponding frequency is 2KHz... so, while some 8" woofers may sound OK on-axis at above 2KHz, NONE of them can have good output off axis. And there's VERY FEW people that can put an 8" woofer on-axis, in a car. Better to use a 3-way setup, with a smaller mid and a low crossover point between the 8" midbass and the midrange...

Regards,
Gordon.

3.5Max6spd
07-24-2006, 05:10 PM
anyone know a pretty dammn good woofer for the buck that could play from 80hz to 2.6khz nice and loud, espacially mid-bass, (80hz-250hz)(6.5inch or 7inch)

thx

That depends whether you consider TIME=MONEY.

Most of these suggestions are excellent speakers should you dedicate the time/effort for the install and build a sealed or vented enclosure for them as they are lower QTs drivers. If you are just going to drop it into your door, do yourself a favor a get yourself a higher Qts driver-preferably a high +0.5x-0.6 to not be disappointed.
I've heard the Daytons in doors are they dont sound bad, but they do sound a bit odd running that wide range and require a bit of tuning.

GordonW
07-24-2006, 05:15 PM
. If you are just going to drop it into your door, do yourself a favor a get yourself a higher Qts driver-preferably a high +0.5x-0.6 to not be disappointed.


Definitely second that thought. That's always been my experience, too. Can't fight basic physics!

Though, one thing people don't think of: the WIRE connecting the speaker, can raise the Q... as can a passive crossover. I've seen, from a driver running on 20 feet of 18g wire, a rise of 20% in the Qtc, in some conditions. Funny, isn't it... using a SMALLER wire, might make for MORE bass, in some cases??

Regards,
Gordon.

UndercoverPunk
07-24-2006, 05:22 PM
But an 8" can work well, on axis, in an properly made enclosure, when couple with something such as a HLCD that can cover down into the 1.5k range correct?

Or should I just shoot myself in the face now?


I want to see you argue with Brad... that would be one hell of an information fest.

squeak9798
07-24-2006, 05:55 PM
1.5k? Pssh....wussy :p: I haven't looked at the specs of that particular driver you'll be using (and too lazy to right now), but full bodied horns are good down to ~650hz IIRC. If the compression driver will sustain it, and you're using a 24db/oct slope, I'd try no higher than 1khz as a highpass point for the horn.

But to answer your question about the 8"...yes, you'll be fine, especially if you push that xover point down a little more. Beaming for an 8" doesn't begin to be horrible until about 2khz as Gordon mentioned. At 1khz, an 8" woofer should only be about -3db down at 90* off-axis. At 1600hz, an 8" would be about -3db down at 45* off-axis.

Moral of the story...you should be fine if you keep it more than 45* on-axis, especially if you drop the xover point like you should.

UndercoverPunk
07-24-2006, 06:35 PM
1.5k? Pssh....wussy :p: I haven't looked at the specs of that particular driver you'll be using (and too lazy to right now), but full bodied horns are good down to ~650hz IIRC. If the compression driver will sustain it, and you're using a 24db/oct slope, I'd try no higher than 1khz as a highpass point for the horn.

But to answer your question about the 8"...yes, you'll be fine, especially if you push that xover point down a little more. Beaming for an 8" doesn't begin to be horrible until about 2khz as Gordon mentioned. At 1khz, an 8" woofer should only be about -3db down at 90* off-axis. At 1600hz, an 8" would be about -3db down at 45* off-axis.

Moral of the story...you should be fine if you keep it more than 45* on-axis, especially if you drop the xover point like you should.

I havn't gotten the bodeis, or payed for my DQT yet, so I am unsure on what these retardedly bad boys are capable of, I keep talking about going to 800 and trying them out and mr. jizzle keeps telling me I'm insane, so without someone local for me to talk to about running them (as I don't want to bug the **** out of you guys on here), I'll be waiting till I have them in and fairly well tuned with an RTA to start seeing where I can take them. I like finding stuff out on my own a lot too anyway... if I go slowly and listen for the driver stressing, then I KNOW what it sounds like instead of just going gung-ho and having to get new diaphrams after 2 days.

Which... if I could afford it I would actually do... I find ruining things I can afford to replace worth the money considering the experience I gain.

Wow... that was a cluster**** of words wasn't it?

Oh and unless I dunbass my way into a pair of idq's or illusion 8's that have been babied I'll be waiting for the next great 8" mid... :naughty:

kublkmax
07-24-2006, 10:21 PM
I would recommend the Rainbow Germaniums in the 6.5 drivers. You would not be disipointed. don't do an 8" driver you wont get the resolutes you want.

Mx3guy
07-24-2006, 11:18 PM
then TRY the AA polys.
What is the model number for those?

Mx3guy
07-24-2006, 11:22 PM
I would recommend the Rainbow Germaniums in the 6.5 drivers.
Where can I get those?

springy101
07-24-2006, 11:25 PM
What is the model number for those?
why do you need the model #? just go to ascendantaudio.com and click on the poly mids.

springy101
07-24-2006, 11:25 PM
Where can I get those?
from don (6spdcoupe)

Mx3guy
07-24-2006, 11:30 PM
What kind of sound will the poly AAs give me? Are they worth it?

SQBubble
07-25-2006, 12:53 AM
That depends whether you consider TIME=MONEY.

Most of these suggestions are excellent speakers should you dedicate the time/effort for the install and build a sealed or vented enclosure for them as they are lower QTs drivers. If you are just going to drop it into your door, do yourself a favor a get yourself a higher Qts driver-preferably a high +0.5x-0.6 to not be disappointed.
I've heard the Daytons in doors are they dont sound bad, but they do sound a bit odd running that wide range and require a bit of tuning.

ya my doors really arent well isolated, theres alot of open area so the woofer is far from being in an enclosure , i can tell ya that maxima's are pain in the *** for car system :crap: hehe

but its all good though, ive putted more dynamat xtreme on the doors, and mid-bass came out alittle more:) , and I redid the mounting of the speakers on the door all over...got rid of the silly anoying stock plastic mounting bracket ! I mounted some mdf on the door panel, then the speaker mounted on mdf and mdf on mdf , and after that i siliconed to seal as most as possible, its really clean and strong now and its more clear and alive for some reason just by doin' this:D
i guess a really high qts would play mid-bass with autorithy in my case i guess(the higher the qts, the better the response in IB right?)


ill post pics of my doors soon!:D

6spdcoupe
07-25-2006, 12:57 AM
ya my doors really arent well isolated, theres alot of open area so the woofer is far from being in an enclosure , i can tell ya that maxima's are pain in the *** for car system :crap: hehe




ill post pics of my doors soon!:D


Trust me he knows how the Maxima is...and I know them ALL TOO WELL. :(

squeak9798
07-25-2006, 09:12 AM
i guess a really high qts would play mid-bass with autorithy in my case i guess(the higher the qts, the better the response in IB right?)


Higher Qts just gives you a higher Qtc in an IB alignment. And that higher Qtc generally results in a response that people are more fond of........

Megalomaniac
07-25-2006, 06:36 PM
AA Poly mids....35 a pop cant be beat...
I just ordered a pair yesterday,im excsited should be here via FedEX Thursday!:crazy:

SQBubble
07-25-2006, 06:52 PM
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/sqlfreak/Picture138.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/sqlfreak/Picture139.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/sqlfreak/Picture140.jpg

pictures as promised...
thats how it is now..

zachzchw
07-25-2006, 08:59 PM
Did you really say "putted"?

"putted"?

FoxPro5
07-25-2006, 10:03 PM
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/sqlfreak/Picture138.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/sqlfreak/Picture139.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n284/sqlfreak/Picture140.jpg

pictures as promised...
thats how it is now..

^^^ now we know why you have a lack of midbass. :crap: Buy $1000 mids and they still won't sound that great IMO.

SQBubble
07-25-2006, 10:13 PM
^^^ now we know why you have a lack of midbass. :crap: Buy $1000 mids and they still won't sound that great IMO.

shytt, its really cuz of them wholes huh/?
oh well
i did the best i can to have the most potential out of them polk, u dont wanna know how it was before:rolleyes: hehe...imma keep them like this and wont get anything else...
:D.
another car maybe! hehe

FoxPro5
07-25-2006, 10:24 PM
shytt, its really cuz of them wholes huh/?
oh well
i did the best i can to have the most potential out of them polk, u dont wanna know how it was before:rolleyes: hehe...imma keep them like this and wont get anything else...
:D.
another car maybe! hehe

For shizzle!! Dude just spend a little coin and some time properly deading and sealing up those holes. Be sure you put at least one layer of mat on the door skins followed by a layer of Ensolite by RAMMaudio or OverKill by Second Skin before you close them up though. It's not that hard to do...many of us here have done it and will back me up in saying that it makes a difference between an ok front stage and an awesome one!! I'm not familiar with those Polk drivers, but I'm sure that they have more potential than that.