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View Full Version : Too much power for Germaniums?



SuperBlack350z
07-02-2006, 05:42 PM
My girlfriend's got an Eclipse PA5422 (85x4 @4 ohm) that she's looking at using to run her new Germaniums. If this were bridged, would that be too much for the Germaniums to handle? I'm figuring leaving them not bridged wouldn't be enough. These are going in Tuesday, just making sure this will be an ok setup.

Beat_Dominator
07-02-2006, 05:43 PM
So what like 160+ bridged? They would handle that I think.

6spdcoupe
07-02-2006, 06:02 PM
Definately not too much, but rasther than bridging why not Biamp em?

SuperBlack350z
07-02-2006, 06:05 PM
And here's where I'm a noob . . . how does that work and what's the advantage?

Starky
07-02-2006, 06:05 PM
6spd (^^^) tells me my 400 per side will be fine with my Germ 465.65's (2 speaker per side set)

mtdewelf
07-02-2006, 06:10 PM
And here's where I'm a noob . . . how does that work and what's the advantage?
disadvantages are that you are going to spend some serious time making sure that each comp set sees the exact same signal

chadillac3
07-02-2006, 08:31 PM
disadvantages are that you are going to spend some serious time making sure that each comp set sees the exact same signal


The original poster is only going to use one component set...which means only level matching the tweets to the mids when bi-amping.

SuperBlack350z
07-02-2006, 10:42 PM
So . . . if I'm biamping with a four channel, I have FL, FR, RL, RR . . . obviously + and - on each. So . . . In a biamped setup, am I correct in saying that each tweeter and each woofer are its own channel? If so, on say the right side, would I run the tweeter off FR and the woofer off RR and so on a so forth for the left side? That's the only way I can see this working . . . thanks for the help!

headless
07-03-2006, 10:53 AM
So . . . if I'm biamping with a four channel, I have FL, FR, RL, RR . . . obviously + and - on each. So . . . In a biamped setup, am I correct in saying that each tweeter and each woofer are its own channel? If so, on say the right side, would I run the tweeter off FR and the woofer off RR and so on a so forth for the left side? That's the only way I can see this working . . . thanks for the help!

You got it right, that's how you'd do it with a 4ch amp. You'll lose some power in doing so (bridged to 2channel operation pushes more power in general, and allows the speakers to split it as needed whereas the woofer can never get more than 85w in a 4ch setup 85wx4)

AphexTwin
07-03-2006, 07:49 PM
Bi-amping in a car enviroment is so stupid. Honestly do you ever see any 1 in competitions bi-amp. And out of all the company's that make components like 2 offer bi-amping. Waste of speaker wire and amp chan's.

spudracer326
07-03-2006, 07:53 PM
Bi-amping in a car enviroment is so stupid. Honestly do you ever see any 1 in competitions bi-amp. And out of all the company's that make components like 2 offer bi-amping. Waste of speaker wire and amp chan's.


you my friend are a moron.....




/story



on a side note just biamp, mine are very happy biamped off my 4150xxk;)

AphexTwin
07-03-2006, 08:35 PM
And i quote from axiom audio

"Bi-amping, or biamplification, is used mainly in professional sound reinforcement applications, where extremely high levels of loudness are required. Here big, separate amplifiers powering the low frequencies, and smaller amps for the midrange will increase overall output. Sometimes they will use a separate outboard electronic crossover (the speaker's internal crossover is disabled or bypassed entirely) so the operator can vary and adjust individual crossover frequencies, tailor the “slope” of the crossover to match the strengths of each set of drivers, and also adjust the relative sonic balance of bass, midrange and treble to suit the environment. This is important for huge auditoriums or outdoor events where separate arrays of treble and midrange horns are operating with big “bass bins,” but such systems have no place in domestic home theater systems in normal rooms or in car audio enviroments. Additionally, it puts control of the relative smoothness and tonal balance into the hands of the sound system operator, a dangerous tool for all but the most experienced sound reinforcement experts. It also partly explains why the live sound at so many concert events (not all, mind you) is so awful."
On to the good stuff.
"Will it sound any different if you biwire? Some users think it does, but I've never heard any differences, nor have any of our laboratory measurements or scientifically controlled double blind listening tests ever demonstrated there are audible differences. Axiom includes the extra terminals as a nod to those enthusiasts who believe that biwiring results in audible benefits and for the bi-ampers."


STFU K-thx

spudracer326
07-03-2006, 08:56 PM
What is described there is called running your components active, it and biamping passives are two diferent things....when running active you control the crossovr points and tonal balances with a seperate processor...when biamping passives you are simply running a channel into the tweeter input on the speakers passive crossover and a channel to the midwoofers input on the speakers passive crossover...then letting the passive crossover use its fixed points adjust where the speaker is crossed at....and it is not wortheless...go to a local competition and see how many people are running one input passives and how many are running active/biamped...you might be suprised that your so called waiste of wire is the most common as it gives the user greater control over what there speakers are doing....resulting in tonaly(sp) supperior performance....


now you can stfu and gtfo....noobx....

SuperBlack350z
07-05-2006, 11:06 PM
Well, they're in. My girlfriend is out of town and I'm surprising her with the install when she comes back. My first impressions are pretty good. I went with the biamped configuration. The one thing I didn't even think about, since I'm biamping with a 4ch, is that when i fade it front to back it fades between the woofers and tweeters (and also the stock rears which are still running off the deck). They haven't really been tuned up since I'm waiting for my g/f to tune them to her ears, but I'm thinking the stock rears are really interfering with the sq of the Germs. She doesn't want to go without rear fill (we've had this discussion), but I think this may let me convince her to disconnect them. They're just 5 1/4's very low in the rear doors, so they don't add much in terms of volume, but I really think they're taking away in terms of sq. Any opinions? Also, how long is the typical break in period for these?

MrSector9
07-05-2006, 11:11 PM
unhook the sotckers :)

dont tlel her

OR attenuate them down VERY low.

6spdcoupe
07-05-2006, 11:13 PM
Well, they're in. My girlfriend is out of town and I'm surprising her with the install when she comes back. My first impressions are pretty good. I went with the biamped configuration. The one thing I didn't even think about, since I'm biamping with a 4ch, is that when i fade it front to back it fades between the woofers and tweeters (and also the stock rears which are still running off the deck). They haven't really been tuned up since I'm waiting for my g/f to tune them to her ears, but I'm thinking the stock rears are really interfering with the sq of the Germs. She doesn't want to go without rear fill (we've had this discussion), but I think this may let me convince her to disconnect them. They're just 5 1/4's very low in the rear doors, so they don't add much in terms of volume, but I really think they're taking away in terms of sq. Any opinions? Also, how long is the typical break in period for these?


Why are you using front and rear preouts to run your fronstage?

SuperBlack350z
07-06-2006, 12:04 AM
How else would I do it with a 4 channel? I have the tweeters on the front L & R channels and the woofers on the Rear L&R channels.

6spdcoupe
07-06-2006, 12:10 AM
Front from the HU to Y splitter on the amp, or most likely depending on the amp itll have a parallel switch.

SuperBlack350z
07-06-2006, 12:14 AM
So the front preouts from the deck to a y splitter to the amp? Would I need two splitters? One for left and one for right? It'd still be plugged into the rear channel input though, right? Sorry . . . as simple and step by step as you can make this will really help me.

6spdcoupe
07-06-2006, 12:15 AM
So the front preouts from the deck to a y splitter to the amp? Would I need two splitters? One for left and one for right? It'd still be plugged into the rear channel input though, right? Sorry . . . as simple and step by step as you can make this will really help me.


That correct. But first check your amp for a parallel input.

6spdcoupe
07-06-2006, 12:16 AM
Actually, wait...just tell me/us what amp it is. ;)

SuperBlack350z
07-06-2006, 12:17 AM
Eclipse PA5422

6spdcoupe
07-06-2006, 12:21 AM
IIRC it does have a parallel input switch.

SuperBlack350z
07-06-2006, 12:22 AM
Is this just one switch or one switch for each channel? There's a switch on each channel for Mono(L), Stereo, or L+R

6spdcoupe
07-06-2006, 12:26 AM
Just checked, doesnt have it, the Y splitters would be your best bet. Single Female to double Male for each side.

SuperBlack350z
07-06-2006, 12:27 AM
Alright, thanks for all the help. Now I have to take the @#$$%@ car apart again =) Will this make a difference in sq or just return the fader to normal?

6spdcoupe
07-06-2006, 12:28 AM
you can also just call me tomorrow if you find it easier...

SuperBlack350z
07-06-2006, 12:32 AM
I'll probably mess with it on Sunday. Thanks for the offer, I think I know enough to be dangerous now. I'll keep it in mind though. ;)

6spdcoupe
07-06-2006, 12:55 AM
lol GL, and you can still call me if need be.

3.5Max6spd
07-06-2006, 09:42 AM
How else would I do it with a 4 channel? I have the tweeters on the front L & R channels and the woofers on the Rear L&R channels.

Bro, you DONT want the speakers on one side of the car to be in stereo with one another. YOU WANT one side of the car to be in stereo with the other side of the car. L& R. You need ysplitters it sounds like for inputs, and you want to wire left side tweeter with channel Front Left, left side mid on channel Rear L, right side mid /tweet on the respective Right channels. Good luck.

headless
07-06-2006, 10:27 AM
IMO just unhook the rear speakers and leave the preouts hooked up as is...you don't need fade without a rear set of speakers and the germs should get way louder than needed...those rear 5.25's aren't worth bothering with IMHO :) I think when you turn it up some you will agree. I unhooked the rear 6x9's in my camry when i installed the germaniums and never looked back (my experiences here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149933 )...give it a try, i expect the GF won't even be able to tell the 5.25's are unplugged.