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View Full Version : Help select 6.5" 2 way components for $300



IronCityGuy
06-25-2006, 07:26 PM
Just recently purchased 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5SE 5-Speed. Goal now is to add a nice front stage to the current stock speakers. I was surprised how well the stock fill was and plan to run the front door and rear deck speakers off my Pioneer Premier HU which produces 60x4 peak (Theres a switch to run it @ a lower wattage and I will probably go that route).

The New Front Stage

I will be constructing kick panels with a fiberglass baffle to house just the 6.5" woofer. I will locate the tweeters in the stock locations of the front pillars. I will be running about 150W rms to each component set. JL Audio 300-2.

So what about these components? I would like to stay in the $350 range(+- $50). Any body out there have some good input?

Just do me a favor and dont abbriviate or exclude the manufacturer. Thanks .

These are some first impressions but haven't heard any of these. Just selecting based on reputation, functionability and price range.

Focal 165KF - Focal Poly Kevlar Power Series 6.5 Component Set $379

CDT Audio CL-61-560 - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component $347

Diamond Audio S600a - Diamond Audio HEX 6.5" Components W/Aluminum or Silk Tweeter $329

Image Dynamics CXS64 - Image Dynamics 6.5" 2 Way Component System $299

Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS 6 3/4" 2-Way Component $289

M5AM
06-25-2006, 08:35 PM
I would highly consider the Rainbow SLCs. I just ordered a set from 6spdcoupe who is a Rainbow dealer and the price would beat most of what your are looking at while exceeding performance I think. I switched to them from the CDT HD line for referance. If not those then I would probaly go with the Diamonds.

mr Tibbs
06-25-2006, 08:55 PM
I just happen to have a VERY good set for sale check them out here (http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=SPX-177R). They are the Alpine type x's. Here (http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166939) is my for sale add. Do a search for reviews on here and you'll see these are very nice.

FoxPro5
06-25-2006, 08:56 PM
Goal now is to add a nice front stage to the current stock speakers.

What exactly are you planning to do??

The best advice is to invest in speakers which your ears like. Take some time and locate local shops and listen, listen, and listen some more before you buy.

theothermike
06-25-2006, 10:01 PM
boston pro 60's

rainbow slc's

type x's

mb quart premiums

oz matrix elites

diamond hex silks <--- only silks aluminums sux hard core

Those are what id consider for 300$

mike

IronCityGuy
06-25-2006, 10:03 PM
What exactly are you planning to do??


Planning to keep the stock speakers in the front door and the stock speakers in the back deck and run these from the aftermarket head unit.

Plan to remove the stock tweeters located in the pillar in front of the front door which will be replaced with the tweets from the component set.

Plan to install the component set woofer into the kick panel.

I plan to finish it off with a sub a little later as expendable money presents itself.

Last thing I plan to do is run around trying to hear all the potential sets of component speakers available in my price range. Besides most would probably be in a showroom and not in a car. Just thought that there might be some people on this forum who would share thier opinions about possible components in that price range that would work in my application.

I guess an important question is if anyone would recommend splitting up the location of the component parts. Should I keep both component tweeter and woofer in the kick panel?

dogears
06-25-2006, 10:06 PM
x2 on the Oz Audio matrix elite



The CDT CL's would not even be considered for that price

mr Tibbs
06-25-2006, 10:24 PM
Planning to keep the stock speakers in the front door and the stock speakers in the back deck and run these from the aftermarket head unit.

Plan to remove the stock tweeters located in the pillar in front of the front door which will be replaced with the tweets from the component set.

Plan to install the component set woofer into the kick panel.

I plan to finish it off with a sub a little later as expendable money presents itself.

Last thing I plan to do is run around trying to hear all the potential sets of component speakers available in my price range. Besides most would probably be in a showroom and not in a car. Just thought that there might be some people on this forum who would share thier opinions about possible components in that price range that would work in my application.

I guess an important question is if anyone would recommend splitting up the location of the component parts. Should I keep both component tweeter and woofer in the kick panel?


The Type X's have a great x-over that has alot, and I mean alot, of adjustment just for that reason!;)

addisdar
06-25-2006, 10:27 PM
x2 on the Oz Audio matrix elite



The CDT CL's would not even be considered for that price

X3 on the OZ

camry_tuner
06-25-2006, 10:31 PM
well, if you are considering anything from cdt, you could get a lot better pricing from a cdt dealer, djdilliodon. he has pretty good prices, and for the amount of money you have to spend, you could get the HD or ES lines. Also, i agree, the Rainbow SLC's (soundline, IIRC)are very good for their money. Good midbass, and smoother tweet than most others. if you have a bit more money to splurge... 450, i know its out of your range, but you could consider the Rainbow Germaniums. But im running a set of Focal Polyglass 165v2, im running the mids and the passive xovers /w a set of rainbow cal25 tweets, and they sound pretty good. Just go out and try to demo as many different sets as you can. The best choice of components are those that please your ears, because its your car, not ours

FoxPro5
06-25-2006, 11:03 PM
Planning to keep the stock speakers in the front door and the stock speakers in the back deck and run these from the aftermarket head unit.
Probably not a good idea. Running the stock mids in the doors in addition to the comp set in the kicks will cause cancellation and basically sound like do-do. Either ditch the stocks and run the mids in the doors or put the comps in kicks. You will probably also find that the rear speakers do more harm then good [see: rear fill debate].

Gary S
06-26-2006, 11:06 PM
You should be able to find Focal 165K2P for around $ 430.00

alteraudiousa
06-27-2006, 12:24 AM
if you want to add to the stock speakers get something like a 3 or 4in driver to add more mid to it. I would suggest the Hybrid Audio Legatia L3 for a small midrange driver that will do much better in a tight spaced kickpanel than a 6.5 driver will. As for the CDT's, i wouldn't pay that price for the CL-61 at all. Pm me if you want a good price on them.

2LouDFoRThiS
06-27-2006, 12:33 AM
pro 60's

Kickerkitty
06-27-2006, 11:54 PM
pro 60's

:word::word::word:

jacka
06-27-2006, 11:57 PM
if you want cdt's, i suggest the hd-62, you can get them for around 320 from djdilliodon, i'd suggest rainbows SLCs, save yourself some money.

6spdcoupe
06-28-2006, 12:02 AM
if you want cdt's, i suggest the hd-62, you can get them for around 320 from djdilliodon, i'd suggest rainbows SLCs, save yourself some money.

^^ I like this guy. :)

IronCityGuy
06-30-2006, 12:11 AM
Ya I like the idea of these Rainbows. I also like the idea of going Germanium. These this look sweet! Instead of saving some money, I should save more money. :naughty:

Anyhow I'm one of those hopless believers in rear fill and wanted a complete surround sound stage at will. Alot of people talk about only front stage if you want to satisfy yourself. Some feel the addition of rear fill will help thier passangers enojoy the tunes. I wanted to propose the idea of sticking it to society.

My coupe days are over and my sedan has the urge to open the rear windows and reach out to everyone else sharing the roads. I have the ability to shut down channels from my head so If I didn't want the rear fill at the time then *poof* its gone. I could run just the front stage and subs, when I get em, and blow my ears out. But If I had some friends in for a road trip, or if I get a monitor to play movies in dash, the rear fill might be useful. Or if I wanted to peev all the mommies and daddies off sitting in traffic beside me.

Anyhow right now I'm leaning to the following for front stage.

Rainbow Germaniums after saving some more cash. 6

Diamond HEX soft domed

Focal polyglass

What are the benefits and disadvantages of 3-way comps against 2-ways? Should I be thinging 3-way. I'm about to throw out the stock all togeather. So much for not fixing something that isn't broke.

konechiwa
06-30-2006, 12:28 AM
2-Way vs. 3-Way

In a perfect world, we'd have a single speaker that could reproduce all frequencies perfectly, 20hz to 20khz. Unfortunately for us, such speaker does not exist…..so, we need to break the frequency spectrum down and play it through multiple speakers (mids, tweeters, subs, etc). This is where we get "2-ways, 3-ways, 5-ways, etc" from.

In co-axials, a 2-way speaker is a speaker that contains only a midwoofer and a tweeter…..the midwoofer playing the lower frequencies (down to around 80hz or so), the tweeter playing the higher frequencies (around 3khz or 4khz and up). 3-way co-axials typically have a midwoofer, tweeter and "supertweeter", with the supertweeter being designated to handle the very, very high frequencies only. Co-axials can go as high as 5-way (midwoofer, midrange, smaller midrange, tweeter and supertweeter). For all intents and purposes, anything more than 2-way in co-axials is a marketing gimmick. Going with 3-way co-axials or higher usually does not increase performance much, if at all.

For component speakers, a 3-way system includes a dedicated midbass (generally plays around 60hz-350hz), a dedicated midrange (generally plays around 350hz-6500hz or so), and a tweeter (generally 6500hz and up). Whereas a 2-way system is only a midwoofer (playing around 60hz-4000hz or so) and a tweeter (4000hz and up). Ideally, for a 3-way system, you'd want to put the midbass in your door, and have kicks built for the midrange & tweeter. For a 2-way component set, kickpanels or door mounting will suffice with generally good results.

General advantages of a 3-way component set:

1) There isn't a crossover point in the middle of the midrange frequencies (which are generally the most important to imaging and tonality), and they aren't being split up between drivers like they sometimes are in a 2-way setup. In a 3-way, they will be played by mainly one speaker, which is the dedicated midrange.

2) In a lot of cars, the mids will need to be flipped out of phase to help correct some midrange frequency phasing problems. In a 2-way system where one speaker plays midrange & midbass, running one of them out of phase will decrease the midbass impact. By running a 3-way, the midrange can be flipped out of phase and it has no effect on the midbass since it is being played by a separate driver.

3) The midrange and midbass frequencies in a 3-way may sound "cleaner" since each speaker has more of a limited bandwidth to play.

Disadvantages of a 3-way component set:

1) Tuning and aiming the speakers can be a much bigger pain the *** with 3-ways. Installation, tuning, phasing and aiming speakers will be much easier/quicker to perfect with 2-ways.

2) Room. It can be much more difficult find the room to fit all of the speakers. In some cars, kickpanels are simply out of the question.

3) Money. 3-ways are normally considerably more expensive than 2-ways.

As you can see, 3-ways aren't necessarily better than 2-way. It's more of a personal preference. Some ppl would rather have a 3-way (for the advantages above), some ppl would rather have a 2-way (easier to tune, less room is occupied, etc).

The speaker FAQ. Ingenious thread.

IronCityGuy
06-30-2006, 02:56 AM
Very good information. Thankyou.

Seems that if you have the money and the room then only setting the 3-ways up positionally will be the biggest task. I have a 2006 Altima and the midbass would have to go into the door. Now there are stock locations for a tweeter about half-way up the door pillar (the one between the front window and the door itself), *such a newb*. Would it seem resonable to place the 3-way tweeter there while building a kick for the midrange only or should I keep those two togeather?

I hate to start throwing curveballs at everyone who has been very helpful so far but I have to consider another option. Changing gears from 2-ways to 3-ways, keeping me in the $500 or lower range for 3-way components, where should I look?

JL Audio XR Series 653 CSi $350

OnYrMrk
06-30-2006, 11:32 AM
From the modified list, I would choose the Diamond Hex series first, then the Rainbow Germs (price wise), but IMO, the Polyglass comps aren't in the same category as these. If anything the 165KP's...the KF's are good, better than the polyglass, but the tweeter is the TN47 and it is Shrill, the KP's have the new TN52 and that tweeter is much, much better. Same tweeter in my K3P's.

konechiwa
06-30-2006, 08:24 PM
you could get the Rainbow SLC 365 Kick, which i think is about 400 bucks.

6spdcoupe
06-30-2006, 08:53 PM
From the modified list, I would choose the Diamond Hex series first, then the Rainbow Germs (price wise), but IMO, the Polyglass comps aren't in the same category as these. If anything the 165KP's...the KF's are good, better than the polyglass, but the tweeter is the TN47 and it is Shrill, the KP's have the new TN52 and that tweeter is much, much better. Same tweeter in my K3P's.


I would put the HEXs in dead last. Their recent decline in product quality earns them that rank. If we're comparing prices, please base it fairly. As you put the HEXs ahead of the Germs "price wise" When both of them share comparible SRP.

IronCityGuy
06-30-2006, 10:59 PM
Thanks for the honesty 6spd, I read in another thread that since the company Eaton stopped making the HEX line of Diamond they have slipped a bit. I know your biased toward Rainbows but who can blame you to throw props to what seems to be the hottest thing on the market.

The SLC 365 KICK @ $400 is the best recommendation I've heard yet but I have two questions.

1) What set-up will have them function at thier best? Can I put the midbass in the door, tweet in the door pillar and the midrange alone in the kick for above average results? That would be my most resonable set-up for my ride.

2) "**System has to be used with an 80 Hz (12 dB/Oct.) high pass!
System needs approximately 10 hours running in time for optimal sound reproduction." I understand the second part of this statement, break-in time. But the 80hz high pass, does this come with it? Where to get it and how to hook it up (newb)?

Of course my rear fill need against most saying no! The SLC 265 in the rear deck? $229

6spdcoupe
06-30-2006, 11:17 PM
Thanks for the honesty 6spd, I read in another thread that since the company Eaton stopped making the HEX line of Diamond they have slipped a bit. I know your biased toward Rainbows but who can blame you to throw props to what seems to be the hottest thing on the market.

The SLC 365 KICK @ $400 is the best recommendation I've heard yet but I have two questions.

1) What set-up will have them function at thier best? Can I put the midbass in the door, tweet in the door pillar and the midrange alone in the kick for above average results? That would be my most resonable set-up for my ride.

2) "**System has to be used with an 80 Hz (12 dB/Oct.) high pass!
System needs approximately 10 hours running in time for optimal sound reproduction." I understand the second part of this statement, break-in time. But the 80hz high pass, does this come with it? Where to get it and how to hook it up (newb)?

Of course my rear fill need against most saying no! The SLC 265 in the rear deck? $229


Its Eton*, they only made the midbasses, the tweets were LPGs.

Im not biased due to being a dealer for Rainbow. As I also carry and stock Diamond among various others..Morel,Dynaudio,Arc,DLS,etc..

1) that would work fine. I know the 3rd gen altis quite well. Ive worked on several and my wifed owned one for a few years.

2) That would be driven/controlled from your HU or Amp.

If you must have rear fill, a simple set of coaxs will suffice. No need to drop $230 on a set of comps.

6spdcoupe
06-30-2006, 11:17 PM
Where on the East coast are you?

IronCityGuy
07-01-2006, 12:50 PM
I guess I'm not really on the coast line. A little bit more inland. I live in the South Hills of Pittsburgh.

Since you know the Alty fairly good do you think the SLC 365 KICK or the GERMANIUMS are the way to go? You can see I'm willing to dump a little money here and the differance would be about $50.

What type of issues may I run into with depth of the midbass in the stock door location? And what are the size of the front door speakers. By the looks of the grille on the outside of the door they look 5 1/2 but I'm sure I'll find a 6 1/2 inside. No biggie either way, I can build and install my own baffle but its depth that worries me. A friend and I noticed that the doors are a bit on the thin side.

Lastly, what model coaxle would do the think? Of course I'd like to stay brand worthy thru and thru.


Anyone else wanna put up a fight against the Rainbows. I know this thread started off as 2-ways for $300 but It's gone to about $550 - $600 for 2 or 3 way front comps and a rear coax.

6spdcoupe
07-01-2006, 01:15 PM
I guess I'm not really on the coast line. A little bit more inland. I live in the South Hills of Pittsburgh.

Since you know the Alty fairly good do you think the SLC 365 KICK or the GERMANIUMS are the way to go? You can see I'm willing to dump a little money here and the differance would be about $50.

What type of issues may I run into with depth of the midbass in the stock door location? And what are the size of the front door speakers. By the looks of the grille on the outside of the door they look 5 1/2 but I'm sure I'll find a 6 1/2 inside. No biggie either way, I can build and install my own baffle but its depth that worries me. A friend and I noticed that the doors are a bit on the thin side.

Lastly, what model coaxle would do the think? Of course I'd like to stay brand worthy thru and thru.


Anyone else wanna put up a fight against the Rainbows. I know this thread started off as 2-ways for $300 but It's gone to about $550 - $600 for 2 or 3 way front comps and a rear coax.


Theres tons of choices within your price range, but two way and three way is what it would need to be narrowed down to before proceeding.

The stock door front and rear are 6.5s, Although Ive been able to fit 8s in there with monor modifications. Suprisingly the Altis are very well sealed on the door panel/skin area. The only hole in there is for the midbass driver, all else is sealed. So a big plus already.

SL or KX 165s would fit nicely, but would depend on what your powering them with.

To narrow down choices a bit..
what are your musical preferences?
Do you typically play loud?
What amp(s) will you be using?
Im guessing youll be running passive?

theothermike
07-01-2006, 02:21 PM
id say go powerline cmx rainbows and then a decent pair of rears. Do u plan to run a sub, if not i suggest some 6x9's for some lows and decent mids.

Uhhh or you could go germaniums 2 ways with a 2nd woofer in the rear spot?

Mike

IronCityGuy
07-01-2006, 09:06 PM
To narrow down choices a bit..
what are your musical preferences?
Do you typically play loud?
What amp(s) will you be using?
Im guessing youll be running passive?

I listen to hip hop mostly.. OutKast, Gnarls Barley as of late. I have a wide range of taste from Rage against the Machine to Incubus. SUBLIME might be the greatest band of my day. I think if I had to select a type of music to hone my speakers to it would be a jazzy hip-hop where the instruments can be bright but not too bright. I like to feel the incorporated drums but don't want the lows to overcome the mids and highs.

I play my music at an above average level. Normally I miss calls on the mobile. Man I need a BlueTooth HU.

I think if I run Both stages the I'll be trading the JL 300.2 to a JL 300.4. The 300.4 should put out 75RMS per channel X4 and has fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable-slope LP or HP (12 or 24 dB per octave). I'll just have to turn the gains lower on the rear stage. I'll have a dedicated JL 500.1 for the sub when I add on.

Crossing the set-up over is where I start to loose knowhow. I'm good to fiberglass, run and connect all the wires but understanding crossovers is kinda a blurr. I have an extra battery to run in the trunk (Yellowtop Optima).


id say go powerline cmx rainbows and then a decent pair of rears. Do u plan to run a sub, if not i suggest some 6x9's for some lows and decent mids.

Uhhh or you could go germaniums 2 ways with a 2nd woofer in the rear spot?

Mike

I will be running a sub eventually and will have the ability to shut down any channel from the HU. But I would think that a 2 or 3-way for the front and a coax in the rear(prolly around a 6.5") should give me a wide range of frequencies. It better for the $600 or so I spend on just speakers. I just expect to be a little short on the <150HZ ones.

Fix me up 6 you got me on a roll! Hate to have you crunch the numbers for me but I see a Rainbow in my future. Or two for that matter. I'm headin up the lake thru the fourth so I'll get back with ya when I return.

HAPPY 4TH! ENJOY YOUR INDEPENDENCE

Trey803
07-02-2006, 12:28 AM
SLC ftw but if you have a powerfull 2 channel amp go with the Pro60's I opted for the SLC because my Alpine amp wont fully power the pro 60's and I LOVE them!

cam5860
07-03-2006, 02:16 PM
I would get the polkmomo's they are hard to beat for the money.

RPM
07-04-2006, 03:56 AM
eh image chameleons if u can find em

IronCityGuy
08-07-2006, 11:17 PM
Broke the bank for some yummy Rainbows. Germ's to be specific. So much for the comps @ $300 post. Now need to select the proper amp to power them. Want to bi-amp and would like the amp to perform parallel duty. Something in the 75x4 rms range. Looking to keep it under $350USD. Any ideas or offers?

Leaning towards a JL 300/4 and match it up with a 500/1 to push the RE SX 12.

Thieroff
08-07-2006, 11:20 PM
ygpm ironcity

2LouDFoRThiS
08-07-2006, 11:24 PM
pro 60's .. you will not be dissapointed..

6spdcoupe
08-07-2006, 11:26 PM
pro 60's .. you will not be dissapointed..


already posted...


Broke the bank for some yummy Rainbows. Germ's to be specific. So much for the comps @ $300 post. .

6spdcoupe
08-07-2006, 11:26 PM
Broke the bank for some yummy Rainbows. Germ's to be specific. So much for the comps @ $300 post. Now need to select the proper amp to power them. Want to bi-amp and would like the amp to perform parallel duty. Something in the 75x4 rms range. Looking to keep it under $350USD. Any ideas or offers?

Leaning towards a JL 300/4 and match it up with a 500/1 to push the RE SX 12.


I thought ya already had an amp coming? Gimme a call tomorrow if your still in need. ;)

IronCityGuy
08-07-2006, 11:38 PM
I thought ya already had an amp coming? Gimme a call tomorrow if your still in need. ;)

Still have the inside on a 300/2 but was reading about bi-amping and like the added flexibility. Have everything I need for install on its way except for amps. Sure would like them to match brand wise without busting my budget. Call ya in the morning. Thanks