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View Full Version : My guide on how to make door pods



iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:12 PM
well i see we have a kick panel guide and not a door pod guide. just went and completed this pod http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1880683#post1880683 and already have people asking questions so i thought it would be a good idea to put it all together in one thread, with some explainations. Now i'm a **** poor glasser so if you got better skills, your will turn out even better. also not gonna get into how to actually lay fiberglass. there are good tutorials where you can learn how to glass.

first you will start off by cutting a hole in you door panel. now you want to follow the same contour of you door panel. don't just cut a 8" round hole or whatever. make sure the hole is big enough though for your speaker.

since you are actually building a sealed enclosure to mount to you door, you need something to anchor it too. on the outer doorskin, i mounted a piece of wood in which the pod itself will mount to. doesn't need to be thick or mdf. i just used some 1/2" osb scrap i had. you can use aluminum or whatever. just make sure it is sturdy

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9972/img02120oj.jpg

now you want to put masking tape around the entire hole, going a good 6 or so inches out.

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/5605/img01768vr.jpg

now you can take some aluminum foil and put it in the hole and stretch it out 6 or so inches along with the asking tape and you can either hot glue or use spray adheisive to adhere it to the tape

http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/1002/img01771ng.jpg

now, preferably with the same wood, you'll use the piece of the door panel you cut out to trace onto a piece of wood, the same shape of your hole, but about 1/2 to 1 inch smaller. this will eventually be the back of your pod

now i used some fleece i picked up for walmart as the backing material. it wasn't too thick nor too thin. i measure side to side and top to bottom of the area i taped and added a few inches for inside the hole. i then took those measurements and cut out a piece of fleece. imo it's easier to handle when it is stretched tight on the back of that wood you cut.


http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1381/img01782jr.jpg

now take your wood and you can hot glue, try to get as close to the edge as possible, and glue it to the stretched fleece

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2808/img01790od.jpg

a little tip. pre drill one hole in the wood before you glue it to the fleece. then after you glue it to the fleece, cut the fleece around where the hole is. that way when you mount the wood, the screw won't rip the **** out of the fleece

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/318/img01809ui.jpg

now you mount that board in the hole. (i'm assuming you had the common sense to test fit it before gluing to the fleece. when doing these always test fit before you move on ;)) then stretch the fleece out from the back of the wood onto the door panel where you applied the foil, using an adhesive. mine started to wrinkle so i made a relief cut. wrinkles are too big of a deal since you don't see this part when you are done, but try to keep them to a minimum

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/8555/img01814qv.jpg

now trim away excess material


http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7175/img01825bi.jpg

now time for the resin. imo with fiberglass, it is always easier to do if you have a good workstation. i like to be chest level so you see i have a stool to sit on, and i set up a make-shift work bench with jack stands and plywood. all the materials i need are setup and no excess materials are there to clutter up the area

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/169/img01834kv.jpg

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:14 PM
now after you mix the resin, you wanna soak the material. basically i almost poored it on and just spread it around with the brush. don't be shy. also cover the area as this will be messy. i used 3 whole cups on this

http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/8185/img01846nj.jpg

now i let that dry. doesn't take long to dry. i then take the mold out after it has dried.

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/849/img01857lq.jpg

you can see where it hasn't been totally covered with resin. you then apply resin and put one layer of mat down

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1396/img01862sn.jpg

now you want to make sure to resin the back side of the pod. trim as much foil off as you can.

http://img476.imageshack.us/img476/9569/img01885pn.jpg

now you want to test fit the mold

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/4919/img01894yc.jpg

now taking a marker, draw along where you want the pod to be cut. be sure to leave an inch or too to create a lip

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/5605/img01908gh.jpg

i used a jigsaw to cut mine out, but if you got a dremel with a fiberglass bit, then use it

http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/5199/img01916mt.jpg

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:16 PM
now test fit your mold again. see if there is anywhere that needs adjusting. in mine i needed to takes more off the top so my power window/lock switch would fit

http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6395/img01925ae.jpg

trimmed it and it fits perfectly

http://img285.imageshack.us/img285/162/img01934bm.jpg

then i sanded it down, but didn't put too much into sanding since it won't be seen

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5161/img01943dr.jpg

now the back mold is completed

now you gotta make a speaker ring/baffle. doesn't need to be perfect round but can't be butchered. i used the same wood for the ring as the rest of the pod. made it freehand with a jigsaw

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3553/img01953lt.jpg

now make sure your speaker fits the ring

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3750/img019623qe.jpg

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:19 PM
now it is time to mount the baffle to the mold. i try to use as thick of wooden dowls as i can. what i did was cut 2 at 3" using a chop saw, and 2 more at 3.75. now the depth totally dependson your door and speaker. the short ones i hot glued 1 on the top and one of the side closest to the passenger. the 2 long ones went on the bottom and back side. i did this so when i place the baffle in the pod. it'll angle it towards the passenger

use lots of hot glue when mounting the dowels to the baffle. you can see i used some thick dowels

http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/3493/img01973di.jpg

now glue that to the mold.

http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/277/img01983al.jpg

test fit the speaker to make sure the magnet doesn't hit the dowels

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4775/img01999bm.jpg

now time to put the fabric on the front. it's best to use a thin stretch material. i used polyester wich isn't stretchy but worked. i glued the baffle to the material, but you can use spray adhesive under the lip on the top of the mold and stretch the material over the front and getting out wrinkles. less wrinkles equal smoother finish and less bondo and sanding. here is mine stretched which isn't very good. had to make a relief cut as well.

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/5828/img02020ua.jpg

now i cut away the excess

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/466/img02038ct.jpg

now you wanna put down fiberglass. 2-3 layers. as you can tell i have some air bubbles. the pod is pretty strong so i didn't worry about them. it means more bondo and sanding

http://img331.imageshack.us/img331/5530/img02046wg.jpg

before sanding and bondo, i trim all the excess stuff from along the edges

next you gotta sand down the fiberglass. a power sander is your friend. use gritty sand paper, 40-60 grit. then apply your bondo and sand. i did 2 layers of bondo and it still has indentations. if you stretch your material better, the surface will be smoother.

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/3179/img02053ya.jpg

trimed any excess material along the edge and primered it

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/6749/img02066kl.jpg

now you can cover your pod however you want. since mine isn't too smooth, i'll likely use vinyl or something to cover it. here i sprayed it black and you can see the imperfections.

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/1131/img02075me.jpg

next i cut out the hole for the speaker.

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/4967/img02081ty.jpg

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:20 PM
speaker fits perfectly

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7487/img02095vg.jpg

now try it in the door

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/116/img02104hj.jpg

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9382/img02112ad.jpg

now you'll cut a hole to insert your speaker wire and make sure to seal it with silicone. now through the speaker hole, you can tighten the screws to the brace you made in the door. hook up your speaker and you are all done.

now this project took me 2 days for just 1 pod. lots of materials and tools were used. here is run down of what was used

container of resin
lots of tubes of liquid hardner
tube of cream hardner
can of bondo
bondo spreaders
lots of cups, paint brushes, and disposable gloves
scrap wood
wooden dowels
hot glue
fiberglass mat
jigsaw
chop saw
drill
electric sander
sanding block
sand paper

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:33 PM
i'm new to fiberglassing and if i can make it then ayone can. i know there are many different ways to do it, but after almost 3 years and 17k posts i might as well contribute something usefull to the forum :crap:

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:39 PM
also post if you think this is helpful. if not i'll just have it deleted. can't find out if the thread is a good idea or not unless you post it :)

ramos
06-07-2006, 12:41 PM
Good idea, you guys just go about some things wierd :)

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:42 PM
Good idea, you guys just go about some things wierd :)


my high school counselor said i wasn't normal :)

what is weird about it?

psych0ticnemes1
06-07-2006, 12:43 PM
looks strong and sturdy, well built... but how could you make one look ****?

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:44 PM
looks strong and sturdy, well built... but how could you make one look ****?


do a better job of stretching the material. mine wasn't stretched well but if you stretch it better it would be a lot smoother

once i cover it in vinyl it'll look better. i left it kinda open at the end for you to cover it however you want

LoudCrownVic
06-07-2006, 12:55 PM
Looks pretty sweet man! Why didn't you go infinite baffle? Why did you use kind of a sealed enclosure?

ramos
06-07-2006, 12:57 PM
my high school counselor said i wasn't normal :)

what is weird about it?


The way you stretched your material is wierd to me. I know your gonna do it a different way next time. I just have never seen anybody go about it that way with the clamps and such :)

psych0ticnemes1
06-07-2006, 12:58 PM
do a better job of stretching the material. mine wasn't stretched well but if you stretch it better it would be a lot smoother

once i cover it in vinyl it'll look better. i left it kinda open at the end for you to cover it however you want

oh ok, nice work... now im me sometime ;)

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 01:00 PM
The way you stretched your material is wierd to me. I know your gonna do it a different way next time. I just have never seen anybody go about it that way with the clamps and such :)


lol i just felt it was easier to stretch it that way. last time i didn't stretch it tight enough and there was slack and it made it harder to stretch onto the panel. i did sealed caues i figured it is sturdier and rather easy to do. also if i would've glassed it to the actuall panel and **** up, then the panel is ruined

LoudCrownVic
06-07-2006, 01:02 PM
The way you stretched your material is wierd to me. I know your gonna do it a different way next time. I just have never seen anybody go about it that way with the clamps and such :)

I liked the jumper cables, lolz.

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 01:08 PM
oh ok, nice work... now im me sometime ;)


tis on the aim now ;)

dont_smokerocks
06-07-2006, 05:37 PM
Looks pretty sweet man! Why didn't you go infinite baffle? Why did you use kind of a sealed enclosure?

X2 is it better to go sealed? What cu.ft. would those pods be? Do they need to be any certain size or does it not really matter with comps?

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 11:18 PM
X2 is it better to go sealed? What cu.ft. would those pods be? Do they need to be any certain size or does it not really matter with comps?


it's more for looks, but since it is sealed you can always add polyfill

OCURIEL
06-08-2006, 12:06 AM
Fudge that's allot of work. I started a small fg enclosure for my 12" & have gained a new respect for people that do this for a living. it's some messy sh*t.

Looking good though. Can't wait to see it covered in vynil.

helotaxi
06-08-2006, 04:15 AM
Thanks for kicking my brain into gear. I'd been pondering how to redo my doors and get it all firmly mounted and hide the seam with the door. I should be getting to work on my new system interation here shortly. This time there will be more pics.

wgsj_fortvalley
10-29-2008, 07:30 PM
i saw where you cut the door pannel? how do you do it w/p cutting the door pannel? these honda pannels are 486.00$ each and im not cutting them for nothing.

ngsm13
10-29-2008, 07:36 PM
Just tape the panel then, and make the back mold on top of the door...

nG

wgsj_fortvalley
10-29-2008, 08:51 PM
Just tape the panel then, and make the back mold on top of the door...

nG

got that part but after its all said and done how do i attach the whole thing to the door pannel????

ngsm13
10-29-2008, 09:18 PM
Got pics of your door panel?

If you don't make them too heavy... you could use silicone... but that takes 24hours to cure.

nG

gsxrjjordan
10-31-2008, 03:55 AM
got that part but after its all said and done how do i attach the whole thing to the door pannel????

Best way is to do what he OP did... remove the door panel, sneak some large piece of wood into the inner skin (make sure your window can still come all the way down), and anchor to that - screwing/bolting the back of your pod to that anchor will sandwich the door panel in there, so it won't rattle/etc. I've always still used some little self-tapping screws to screw the pod onto the outer door panel/skin anyway, just so everything stays put.

It is completely possible to do it without cutting the door panel though, but not advisable because you can't get the depth you need for a 6.5" speaker without sticking waaaaaay out or pointing straight into the tranny tunnel.