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iceteebone
06-05-2006, 05:45 PM
ok i'm starting this cause i have ****ed up all my other pods. what i'm gonna do is go step by step and post pics along the way. please comment if you see something getting ****ed. i got this technique from req so i assume he knows what he is doing :) anyways pic 1

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/5605/img01768vr.jpg

already had the hole cut out and mounted a board in the door so the pod will have something to mount too. taped around the opening and i'll put aluminum foil in the hole and around the edges, using hot glue to adhere it to the tape.

Johnny Drama
06-05-2006, 05:47 PM
OMG!! You are actually doing something on your stereo!!11!!!!!1!

Just kidding. Keep us updated with pics :)

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 05:49 PM
i'm eating pork chops and potatos right now so after that i'll get the next step posted.

also remember i'm in michigan and we just unthawed up here :)

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 05:56 PM
i'm gonna work a lot slower then i did before instead of rushing it.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 06:21 PM
aluminum foil applied

http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/1002/img01771ng.jpg

iceteebone's words of wisdom: hot glue is hot

Robertw813
06-05-2006, 06:45 PM
I did some doorpods myself last weekend using (pretty much) the same steps as Req. Worked fairly well for me, but I dont like how big the bastards came out so I'll be redoing them this week/weekend. Couple pieces of advice...

Take your time and get your bracing that holds the doorpod to the panel nice and strong. I was going a bit to fast and had a hell of time un-screwing myself. Also, I would recommend that you cover your bolts with some tape when you start to fiberglass the base mould. Fiberglass in the threads = a serious pain to work with.

I dont know what your panels looked like before you cut them out, but mine (F150
) actually round down a bit. When I fiberglassed the bases I got some of it under the lip which made it kind of hard to get out once it had cured. Either cut your panels so they are flush, or be careful when you are glassing the little gap between your wood and panel.

Last thing... When you go to screw down your wood to the door (the step before you apply the resin) don't tighten it all the way. By leaving it a bit loose during the glassing then tightening it down once it is dry will REALLY help you to get a nice, flush fit of the pod to the door.

And yes, hot glue is hot. I've got a couple blisters to back me up. :)

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 07:01 PM
i think one of my problems was that i didn't have the material stretched tight enough behind the wood mount, so i used some claps to hold the fleece tight. didn't have enough claps so i improvised and used jumper cables :)

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1381/img01782jr.jpg

then i measured to make sure the piece was in the center and hot glued it down.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2808/img01790od.jpg

mikey060
06-05-2006, 07:09 PM
haha ghetto

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 07:47 PM
well this where i think i ****ed the last pod. i **** at stretching the material. i had to make a relief cut. i could not for the life of me do it without cutting. i'm sure with some sanding and bondo i can smooth out where i had to piece it together. it's not perfect but this looks a lot better then my first pod so far

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/8555/img01814qv.jpg

now with the excess cut away

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7175/img01825bi.jpg

now what i think i'm gonna do is lay down 2 coats of resin and let it dry, and take the mold out of the car. down it in the corners it is really hard to get at so it'll be easier to apply the mat when it's out of the door.

iceteebone's words of wisdom: don't lie on your back underneath where you are putting on hot glue.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 07:52 PM
in case someone is actually trying to gather something from this, here is another tip. i cut out a piece of the material on the back where i drilled, to attach the back of the pod to the door. that way the screw doesn't grab the material and tear the **** out of it

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/318/img01809ui.jpg

req
06-05-2006, 07:59 PM
lookin good so far. honstly just resin on both sides of the fleece should be enough strength, but one or two coats of glass wont hurt while you are doing it eaither :p:

im glad this is working so well for you.

did you use aluminum + rivets for the back there?

CHIT0WNZHUSTLA
06-05-2006, 08:04 PM
didn't have enough claps so i improvised and used jumper cables :)
:laugh:

looking good...

James Bang
06-05-2006, 08:13 PM
makes me wanna try glassing.





...one day.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:15 PM
lookin good so far. honstly just resin on both sides of the fleece should be enough strength, but one or two coats of glass wont hurt while you are doing it eaither :p:

im glad this is working so well for you.

did you use aluminum + rivets for the back there?


there was a huge hole but i actually put a piece of wood back there and screwed it to door skin and the i mount the pod to the piece of wood. it's pretty sturdy.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:21 PM
now for the resin. i set up my work area using a pair of jack stands and a piece of plywood. it akes it easy when everything is right next to the work area.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/169/img01834kv.jpg

now i applied the resin. went pretty heavy like i was busting a nut on my ex-girlfriends face :)

http://img471.imageshack.us/img471/8185/img01846nj.jpg

now i'll let that dry. it gets dark at 9 here so i'll pop that out and continue work in the garage. until then i'll bs with teh thread ****** :)

iceteebone's words of wisdom: when doing work on the door, and having it open for an extended period of time, good idea to disconnect the battery

req
06-05-2006, 08:22 PM
sweet then!

its the same idea. you might want to try some kind of larger 8mm or 10mm selftapping screw tho, small ones like that tend to wiggle out.

MAKE SURE you put the screws in a place where you can get them out thru the speaker hole tho LOL.


ALSO! when making the speaker ring, make a flushmount one, and TRY to get the face of the ring flush with the door panel. aim it up and over JUST A BIT, but try and keep it as flush as possible but make sure its further out than the door panel by like 1\2" or it wont stretch right., and make the "lip" from that red fleece that goes over the door panel like 1\2"

it will make it look nice and smooth.


*nother tip

put some plastic between under the door pod and the door jamb and into the floor of the car. that way you wont spill tons of resin all over the ground and the car like icetee did eehhe :D

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:25 PM
sweet then!

its the same idea. you might want to try some kind of larger 8mm or 10mm selftapping screw tho, small ones like that tend to wiggle out.

MAKE SURE you put the screws in a place where you can get them out thru the speaker hole tho LOL.


ALSO! when making the speaker ring, make a flushmount one, and TRY to get the face of the ring flush with the door panel. aim it up and over JUST A BIT, but try and keep it as flush as possible but make sure its further out than the door panel by like 1\2" or it wont stretch right., and make the "lip" from that red fleece that goes over the door panel like 1\2"

it will make it look nice and smooth.


there isn't as much room as it appears so i have to come out about an inch to make sure i got plenty of clearance for the speaker. i don't know how to make flush mount mdf rings.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:25 PM
also that screw was used just to hold the wood so i could stretch the fleece

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:26 PM
*nother tip

put some plastic between under the door pod and the door jamb and into the floor of the car. that way you wont spill tons of resin all over the ground and the car like icetee did eehhe :D


lol my floor mat is ****ed

req
06-05-2006, 08:29 PM
how big is that opening?

pic with ruler next to it?

and how big are your speakers (overall diamater and mounting diamater)

bumpin_blazer
06-05-2006, 08:30 PM
haha i was about to say

bumpin_blazer's words of wisdom : move floor mat and place down tarp before using resin;).

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:31 PM
how big is that opening?

pic with ruler next to it?

and how big are your speakers (overall diamater and mounting diamater)


well toward the back of the door it is 4" deep and towards the front it is only about and inch. overall they are 6.5 and mouting dimater is 5 5/8

psych0ticnemes1
06-05-2006, 08:32 PM
keep it coming T, you da man!

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:32 PM
haha i was about to say

bumpin_blazer's words of wisdom : move floor mat and place down tarp before using resin;).


it is a walmart mat and i didn't like it anyways.

i got a sunburn on my neck :(

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:33 PM
i'm gonna clean up the **** i don't need while the resin is drying

bumpin_blazer
06-05-2006, 08:34 PM
ok then:

bumpin_blazer's new words of wisdom: man from michigan hardly expose neck to sun, man from michigan who does not wear sunblock, become's a literal red neck:D.

req
06-05-2006, 08:46 PM
heres where id recommend cutting (green outline)

a flushmount circle is this, cut TWO circles with the OVERALL diamater is 1\2" larger that the overall diamater of the speaker. so in your case, the speaker is 6.5" (measure it first) - you would make two rings that are 7".

in the first ring, you cut out the overall diamater of the speaker, so the first ring would be 7" on the outside, and 6.5" on the inside.

the second ring, instead of the overall diamater of the speaker cut out, you cut the mounting diamater out. so the second ring would be 7" outside and 5-5/8 on the inside.

then you glue them together, so the speaker sits "down inside" the two rings. i like to use some good plywood as screws bite to it better and absolute strength is not as nessicary in a doorpod as a 1000w sub box. and you can buy 1\2 plywood in 2'x4' sheets.

then you mount this inside your pod as shown;

http://i6.tinypic.com/11tlmjq.jpg

rocky 59
06-05-2006, 08:51 PM
hey req do you have the directions you gave icetee avaible in a pm for me lawl

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:56 PM
hey req do you have the directions you gave icetee avaible in a pm for me lawl


lol this was like a couple hour aim convo with some follow up pm's.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:57 PM
ok i took the mold out and i can see where i need more resin. i also took a lot of tape and foil with me.

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/849/img01857lq.jpg

so i'll do a coat of resin front and back and a layer of mat and call it a night

req
06-05-2006, 08:58 PM
if you dont mind the threadjack teeman.

http://i6.tinypic.com/11tlyte.jpghttp://i6.tinypic.com/11tlz6d.jpg

he has WAY more depth than i did. so his will be eaiser and wont have to build out as much. it all dependson the car and the size hole you cut :)

http://i6.tinypic.com/11tlzsn.jpg

you can see the REALLY THIN and SUPER STRETCHY material i used, thats a MUST. if its too thick, then the lip on the back where it overlaps the hole you cut out will not be flush with the door (because you will soak it in resin)

i think its pretty self explanatory. just make sure the wood piece you mount inside the door is like 1~2 inches smaller than the actual hole you make in the door panel, otherwise you wont be able to slide the whole pod in when you are done :p:

i also suggest rounding the edges of the baffle you make with a router. it would look much much better- too late for me however :laugh:



*icetee*

also pull all the tape and foil off and try to resin the back side too. id put glass there before the inside. eaiser to apply!!



BIG TIP!!!

SHOOT YOUR ALUMINUM FOIL, and tape with spray adhesive and wait till it tacks- then aply it. then do the same with the other side of the aluminum foil and the backside of the fleece - its WAY eaiser than hot glue this way. and you can pull up the fleece and stretch it more without ripping the foil and having small lumps from the hot glue :p:

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 08:58 PM
the only thing is i don't have a router to cut perfect circles. can anyone recommend and an affordable one and how do i use it?

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 09:02 PM
tommorrw when i'm in town i'll get a thin material for the front. also i might pick up a router at home depot. could always use one cause i make sub boxes all the time.

req
06-05-2006, 09:06 PM
to draw the circles on the wood, get some cardboard, a screw, and a pencil. measure the RADIUS of your cut onto the cardboard, and poke your pencil thru the end. screw the screw into the middle. (put all the radius's you will use on the cardboard while you are at it with a ruler) then just use the screw as a pivot and trace your circle :)

just get a nice sharp new jigsaw blade and go real slow. small circles are nigh on IMPOSSIBLE to do with a router unelsss you have a template and a router table.

just cut with a jigsaw (cut the inner circle first!!!) then cut the outer one.

i did a good job, just take your time. and use a new blade.

1\2" 3+ layer plywood is my favorite for midbass\midrange baffles

http://homegarden.move.com/homegarden/homeimprovement/howtos/smarttips/smarttips_3/plywood_strength/plywood_strength.gif

rocky 59
06-05-2006, 09:09 PM
to draw the circles on the wood, get some cardboard, a screw, and a pencil. measure the RADIUS of your cut onto the cardboard, and poke your pencil thru the end. screw the screw into the middle. (put all the radius's you will use on the cardboard while you are at it with a ruler) then just use the screw as a pivot and trace your circle :)

just get a nice sharp new jigsaw blade and go real slow. small circles are nigh on IMPOSSIBLE to do with a router unelsss you have a template and a router table.

just cut with a jigsaw (cut the inner circle first!!!) then cut the outer one.

i did a good job, just take your time. and use a new blade.

1\2" 3+ layer plywood is my favorite for midbass\midrange baffles
do you mean 1/2'' mdf or 3+ plywood sheets together for baffles?

req
06-05-2006, 09:11 PM
no PLYWOOD is made of multiple layers of thin sheets of wood and the grain is rotated 90 degrees each time a new piece of wood is glued down.

1\2" plywood with at LEAST 3 layers of wood is what i use. [see picture in above post]

rocky 59
06-05-2006, 09:14 PM
oo okay i thought you meant like three layers of 3+layer plywood. i was like man thats a huge thick *** piece

PESteele
06-05-2006, 09:22 PM
im confused and never made door pods but am experienced with fiberglass. What is the purpose of the wood is that the back of the pod or is it a placeholder

req
06-05-2006, 09:26 PM
its an easy way to make a beginning strong mount. its also there to hold the fleece in place so you can do the 'reverse stretch' that i invented. well, im sure somone has done it before me, but nobody taught me how to do it. :p:

technically you could make a flat piece of fiberglass to save more airspace and use that to hold the fleece back, but wood is stronger than glass when flat. and its eaiser to just get a piece of scrap wood and jigsaw it than use your glassing materials.

so thats all :)

PESteele
06-05-2006, 09:40 PM
ok so hes just making a base to put the mdf ring on

req
06-05-2006, 09:56 PM
thats what he has so far, yes. he also is making the back side of the pod sealed and NOT infinite baffle. the "wood + stretchy material" is just an easy + quick + cheap + effective way to make the rear part of the enclosure.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:01 PM
did a layer of glass and now i'm out of supplies

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1396/img01862sn.jpg

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:03 PM
i'm thinking i might make a jig to cut out the circles.

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:05 PM
there is still some foil on the back that looks like it won't come off so i might just resin over it

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:09 PM
so the props i use for the baffle should mount to the sides of the enclosure and not the back piece of wood?

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:12 PM
man i'm ****ing filthy. time for a shower. sorry no pics :(

req
06-05-2006, 10:15 PM
ice, try and get all those little hairs covered in resin, you dont like sanding, so get em flat.

jigs are fine. jigs are fun. go for it. dont worry about the foil or tape. it will be on the back, noone will see that part. resin right over it. but dont put any glass on the backside of the lip you made. and the props can mount anywhere you need them to. as long as they dont get in the way of the speaker motor or the stretched material.

good so far man :)

honestly, glass was prolly not needed on the rear part. that fleece was pretty thick, but it cant hurt :p:



WHA WHA WHHHATT?? NO PICS OF YOU+SHOWER :furious:

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:29 PM
ice, try and get all those little hairs covered in resin, you dont like sanding, so get em flat.

jigs are fine. jigs are fun. go for it. dont worry about the foil or tape. it will be on the back, noone will see that part. resin right over it. but dont put any glass on the backside of the lip you made. and the props can mount anywhere you need them to. as long as they dont get in the way of the speaker motor or the stretched material.

good so far man :)

honestly, glass was prolly not needed on the rear part. that fleece was pretty thick, but it cant hurt :p:



WHA WHA WHHHATT?? NO PICS OF YOU+SHOWER :furious:


most of them are on the end and i'm gonna trim it down and those will get cut off

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:30 PM
i hope my components are worth the time i'm spending in door pods :laugh: i'm thinking i may make tweeter pods in the kick area. sound good? or else i'm thinking the dash

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 10:43 PM
now i think i might mount my tweeter with my mid.

Starky
06-05-2006, 11:06 PM
on the dash...you want your soundstage to be ear level

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 11:07 PM
on the dash...you want your soundstage to be ear level


but i think it may sound better on axis rather then off axis

Starky
06-05-2006, 11:12 PM
well all I know is that mine are on my dash and they sound **** good

FoxPro5
06-05-2006, 11:14 PM
i think one of my problems was that i didn't have the material stretched tight enough behind the wood mount, so i used some claps to hold the fleece tight. didn't have enough claps so i improvised and used jumper cables :)

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1381/img01782jr.jpg

then i measured to make sure the piece was in the center and hot glued it down.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2808/img01790od.jpg

LMAO!! :hilariou:

iceteebone
06-05-2006, 11:16 PM
LMAO!! :hilariou:


hey man it worked :D wish i would've done that on my last pods. i know for sure i'll do that on my other pod

FoxPro5
06-05-2006, 11:22 PM
hey man it worked :D wish i would've done that on my last pods. i know for sure i'll do that on my other pod

I know...pure genious...might as well put those clamps to work...those are strong bastards too...prolly could crush your finger!! :)

Keep up the work...love to see threads like these.

We need a section for this type of stuff don't y'all think??? Aheeem Admin...Mods!!

req
06-06-2006, 01:22 AM
ya ice, i would really recommend NOT putting tweets in your lower doors. tweets sound real good off axis up in the A pillar. if you put them in the doors with the mid, chances are that your leg will be blocking\absorbing a lot of the higher frequencies and it will be muddy as a result.

i would put the crossovers under the dash, and put the tweet in the A pillar.

what components do you have by the way?

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 01:23 AM
ya ice, i would really recommend NOT putting tweets in your lower doors. tweets sound real good off axis up in the A pillar. if you put them in the doors with the mid, chances are that your leg will be blocking\absorbing a lot of the higher frequencies and it will be muddy as a result.

i would put the crossovers under the dash, and put the tweet in the A pillar.

what components do you have by the way?


well i got all the wires run to the trunk cause i was gonna go active so i'll just mount the xovers in the trunk. i have the pioneer rev series

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 01:28 AM
i tried them out in my bad pod off the headunit and they seemed decent. for $110 can't go wrong

James Bang
06-06-2006, 02:02 AM
I would suggest placing the tweets near the kicks

JAZN
06-06-2006, 03:29 AM
Can't say this enough...use double-sided sticky tape and find out what the best placement for the tweeter is. Different cars, different tweeters, different preferences, too many variables to say what's best for you.

req
06-06-2006, 08:50 AM
x2 on jazns comments.

from her on out tee, its all you. take it easy guys.

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 10:50 AM
well time to head of to walmart. so much construction i have to take the long way so it'll take literally over an hour to go to walmart and back. i hate small towns :crap:

DarkFox
06-06-2006, 10:59 AM
Try living in the Mojave desert... the nearest Walmart is 40 miles away.

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 12:57 PM
well got my supplies and resined the back of the pod

http://img476.imageshack.us/img476/9569/img01885pn.jpg

bumpin_blazer
06-06-2006, 01:10 PM
looks ugly, that means it'll sound ****:D

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 02:14 PM
now i took the mold and mounted it back in the door

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/4919/img01894yc.jpg

now i traced an outline of where i wanted to cut it

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/5605/img01908gh.jpg

now this **** is hard to cut out with a jigsaw. missed the line especially at the top.

http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/5199/img01916mt.jpg

did a test fit and at the top where i missed the line i got to trim it down just a hair so my power window/lock switch will fit back in

http://img453.imageshack.us/img453/6395/img01925ae.jpg

trimmed it down and it fits perfectly

http://img285.imageshack.us/img285/162/img01934bm.jpg

now i sanded it down. didn't worry too much about the inside since it won't be seen. you can see the bump where i made the relief cut. if i wanted to i could bondo that in, but you won't see it so i'm not gonna bother.

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/5161/img01943dr.jpg

now i'm gonna try to make my baffle

Shyne151
06-06-2006, 02:17 PM
Hehe I couldn't imagine trying to cut that with a jigsaw. Angle dye grinder or airsaw ftw :)


why aren't those speaker wires in the boot ;)

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 02:19 PM
in some of the pics it doesn't look flush but that is because it isn't screwed down.

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 02:20 PM
Hehe I couldn't imagine trying to cut that with a jigsaw. Angle dye grinder or airsaw ftw :)


why aren't those speaker wires in the boot ;)


lol i tried like hell to get them in the boot and couldn't and said **** it. been like that since december with no problems

Shyne151
06-06-2006, 02:23 PM
lol i tried like hell to get them in the boot and couldn't and said **** it. been like that since december with no problems


Easiest way i've found to go thru them is with a zip tie.... just tape the wire to the end and feed it thru. Works alot better than a coat hanger.

But they're lookin good man, keep it up!

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 03:02 PM
well this is the very first ring i have ever made. just decided to do it freehand with the jigsaw.

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3553/img01953lt.jpg

speaker opening was a little small so i trimmed it and now the speaker fits perfectly

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3750/img019623qe.jpg

rocky 59
06-06-2006, 03:10 PM
use a coat hanger or fish tape to run wires through the boot. and the mids look nice cant wait to see this done so i can try it.


maybe:scared:

snb778
06-06-2006, 03:29 PM
so I have a quick question on positioning....if you do BOTH door pods AND kicks, and your using components...would it sound alright to put all 4 tweets on the dash? If not,...where would you reccomend placing them?

rocky 59
06-06-2006, 03:31 PM
so I have a quick question on positioning....if you do BOTH door pods AND kicks, and your using components...would it sound alright to put all 4 tweets on the dash? If not,...where would you reccomend placing them?
2 tweets on the dash is what i like

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 03:33 PM
mounted the props to the baffle. used a lot of hot glue. these *****es aren't going anywhere

http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/3493/img01973di.jpg

mounted the baffle to my mold

http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/277/img01983al.jpg

did a test fit with my speaker. all that is holding it up is hot glue and it doesn't even wobble with the speaker in.

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4775/img01999bm.jpg

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 03:34 PM
so I have a quick question on positioning....if you do BOTH door pods AND kicks, and your using components...would it sound alright to put all 4 tweets on the dash? If not,...where would you reccomend placing them?


your running 4 tweets? i was originally gonna run some xxx mids in the doors, some midranges and tweet in kicks but scaled back and i'm just gonna run a set of comps

psych0ticnemes1
06-06-2006, 03:38 PM
hella nice, keep it up

psych0ticnemes1
06-06-2006, 03:38 PM
then make me some for 200 ;)

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 03:39 PM
time to get a drink then i got some thinner material to use on the front. so far this pod is 100 times better then my last one. here is a pic of what my last one looked like

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/6969/img01754hu.jpg

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 04:43 PM
got my clamps back out again :)

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/4771/img02000vd.jpg

mounted pod to the material

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/2360/img02016ba.jpg

stretched the material. this is where i ****. got some wrinkles but hopefully with some sanding and bondo, i can smooth it out. not to worried about inside the circle

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/5828/img02020ua.jpg

excess cut away

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/466/img02038ct.jpg

jd_man_90
06-06-2006, 04:43 PM
very good so far the only thing i think could improve is the speaker baffle, what did you use to cut it out? i don't think i've ever seen this exact technique used but it looks like it's working quite well for you.

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 04:44 PM
very good so far the only thing i think could improve is the speaker baffle, what did you use to cut it out? i don't think i've ever seen this exact technique used but it looks like it's working quite well for you.


i freehand it with a jigsaw :)

snb778
06-06-2006, 04:50 PM
your running 4 tweets? i was originally gonna run some xxx mids in the doors, some midranges and tweet in kicks but scaled back and i'm just gonna run a set of comps

yes...4 tweets...2 sets of comps...i think all 4 tweets up on dash will sound better though...but the other 2 are in the kick...dont want to take em out.

lookin good man...keep at it. I want to try some in the near future

rocky 59
06-06-2006, 04:51 PM
yes...4 tweets...2 sets of comps...i think all 4 tweets up on dash will sound better though...but the other 2 are in the kick...dont want to take em out.

lookin good man...keep at it. I want to try some in the near future
id love to hear how you t/a that and how much distortion it has.

suggestion-take the tweets out of the kick and leave the 2 on the dash or vis a versa and see how much better it sounds

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 06:43 PM
got dones putting on 2 layers of glass. most likely gonna do 1 more. it's gonna need some good sanding and bondo

http://img331.imageshack.us/img331/5530/img02046wg.jpg

JAZN
06-06-2006, 06:48 PM
Are those air bubbles?

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 06:50 PM
Are those air bubbles?


yea it's where the material wrinkled on me a little. hoping that i can sande them down and bondo them.

forceofwill
06-06-2006, 07:33 PM
Lookin good. I put mine in to test them out, but I still need to finish them up and make em look purdy. I put my tweeters in the kicks, here's some pics for an idea.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h84/allonsvites/DSCF1308.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h84/allonsvites/DSCF1307.jpg

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 07:36 PM
sanded out the air pockets and bondoed it. waiting for the bondo to dry then i'll sand it and post pics.

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 07:36 PM
it seems pretty strong. i was pressing down on the speaker baffle with all my weight and it didn't budge or flex

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 08:02 PM
sanded it down but still needed more bondo

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 09:00 PM
finished with the bondo and sanded it.

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/3179/img02053ya.jpg

trimmed excess off the edges and put on a coat of primer

http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/6749/img02066kl.jpg

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 09:18 PM
sprayed it black but you can see the imperfections. gonna get some vinyl and cover it. i really **** at it but i'll give it a try.

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/1131/img02075me.jpg

dbornotdb
06-06-2006, 09:35 PM
Whats with everyones wires showing in the door jams??

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_10.gif

iceteebone
06-06-2006, 09:38 PM
Whats with everyones wires showing in the door jams??

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_10.gif


you try getting them *****es through on a december night in northern michigan. ;)

AllStar1500bd
06-06-2006, 09:43 PM
Subscribed. ;)

AllStar1500bd
06-06-2006, 09:44 PM
Double post, sorry.

ssj2xxgotenxx
06-06-2006, 10:19 PM
Bless your soul iceteebone.

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:52 AM
so no vinyl to be found so i had to settle for carpet. should have it completed tommorrow

MadAudio
06-07-2006, 01:03 AM
you try getting them *****es through on a december night in northern michigan. ;)hahahaha
hell its hard enough in april nevermind december
btw looking good ice

THUNDERBIRD
06-07-2006, 01:03 AM
u really dont need to strech the fleece before u wrap it. just start at one side and staple it in or glue it, and strech and work it from there until most wrinkles are gone

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 01:08 AM
u really dont need to strech the fleece before u wrap it. just start at one side and staple it in or glue it, and strech and work it from there until most wrinkles are gone


hmmm, i just got an idea i'm gonna do on the other pod. i'll glue the one of the material on the top side of the mold under the lip and stretch it over the baffle and onto the other side instead of gluing it to the baffle and then stretching it

AllStar1500bd
06-07-2006, 03:51 AM
Looking forward to seeing some pics. :)

ramos
06-07-2006, 08:09 AM
got my clamps back out again :)

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/4771/img02000vd.jpg

mounted pod to the material

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/2360/img02016ba.jpg

stretched the material. this is where i ****. got some wrinkles but hopefully with some sanding and bondo, i can smooth it out. not to worried about inside the circle

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/5828/img02020ua.jpg

excess cut away

http://img467.imageshack.us/img467/466/img02038ct.jpg




What kind of material is that ? It doesn't look very stretchy, which is why you got the wrinkles. Try it with some lycra based swimsuit material. betcha don't get any wrinkles with it :)

ramos
06-07-2006, 08:12 AM
hmmm, i just got an idea i'm gonna do on the other pod. i'll glue the one of the material on the top side of the mold under the lip and stretch it over the baffle and onto the other side instead of gluing it to the baffle and then stretching it


super 77 ftw my brother. Work one edge at a time, if you have to pull the material back up. Spray it, and the edge with some more glue. Work your way all around pulling any and all wrinkles out as you go. :)

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 10:03 AM
it's actually polyester lol. i'm gonna try a different technique on the next one.

ramos
06-07-2006, 10:08 AM
it's actually polyester lol. i'm gonna try a different technique on the next one.


Looks like it doesn't stretch much at all . :)

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 10:42 AM
well i cut the hole out for the speaker

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/4967/img02081ty.jpg

speaker fits perfectly

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7487/img02095vg.jpg

now to test fit it in the door. fits perfectly

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/116/img02104hj.jpg

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9382/img02112ad.jpg

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 10:43 AM
thinking i might try some more bondo and paint it again

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 10:44 AM
i think i might take all the pics and start a new thread with a guide on to make them.

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 10:48 AM
my first pod http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=117925 looked worse in person then in the pic

Beat_Dominator
06-07-2006, 11:44 AM
Ok I have to ask. What happens between this pic:

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/2360/img02016ba.jpg


...and this pic??

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/5828/img02020ua.jpg

Beat_Dominator
06-07-2006, 11:45 AM
Hmm I think I got it, in the 1st one are you glueing the ring to the fabric?

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 11:50 AM
Hmm I think I got it, in the 1st one are you glueing the ring to the fabric?


yes the first one i glued the ring to the fabric, but i'm not gonna do it that way next time

Beat_Dominator
06-07-2006, 11:52 AM
Gotcha ;)

Dozy_production
06-07-2006, 11:53 AM
what will you do next time then?

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:02 PM
what will you do next time then?


gonna glue it under the lip on the top and pull it over the front and glue it underneath the lip all the way around

ngsm13
06-07-2006, 12:25 PM
Need to stretch the fabric A LOT more ;)...

Also, what's the point of the large piece of wood INSIDE the pod, that essentially just takes away from internal volume?

Crazy people and making tutorials the first time they attempt something ;)...

heheheheheheheh

nG

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:31 PM
Need to stretch the fabric A LOT more ;)...

Also, what's the point of the large piece of wood INSIDE the pod, that essentially just takes away from internal volume?

Crazy people and making tutorials the first time they attempt something ;)...

heheheheheheheh

nG


see if a first time dunce like myself can make it, then anyone can ;) also what piece of wood are you talking about? the piece of wood is the back of the pod

i think we all came to the conclusion it wasn't stretched well ;) gotta new idea and i'm gonna try a different material. this one came out pretty good so i' happy with it. just needs some sort of covering

ngsm13
06-07-2006, 12:47 PM
see if a first time dunce like myself can make it, then anyone can ;) also what piece of wood are you talking about? the piece of wood is the back of the pod

i think we all came to the conclusion it wasn't stretched well ;) gotta new idea and i'm gonna try a different material. this one came out pretty good so i' happy with it. just needs some sort of covering

Yeah. Well you already had the piece of wood that is actually in the door itself right? Then the other piece of wood is that back of the door pod, so two layers of wood?

I'm sure it'll work great... not criticizing at all... just lost out on some volume if there is indeed two layers.

nG

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:49 PM
Yeah. Well you already had the piece of wood that is actually in the door itself right? Then the other piece of wood is that back of the door pod, so two layers of wood?

I'm sure it'll work great... not criticizing at all... just lost out on some volume if there is indeed two layers.

nG


i used the wood in the door so i can mount it too the door. without the wood there would just be a hole. i know req said he used aluminum bars, it was just easier to use wood.

also the wood was mounted inside, the door skin

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9972/img02120oj.jpg

DarkFox
06-07-2006, 12:55 PM
I think he did a good job.. I have never done one of these before, but the way he showed prety much every step made me alot more confident that I can do it too. His might have not come out perfect, but it shows his steps well and lets people perfect it for them self. Keep up the good work.

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 12:57 PM
I think he did a good job.. I have never done one of these before, but the way he showed prety much every step made me alot more confident that I can do it too. His might have not come out perfect, but it shows his steps well and lets people perfect it for them self. Keep up the good work.


if i wrap it in vinyl you wont even see the imperfections. the black paint show the imperfections, but the shape and fit of the pod is pretty good. i'll post more pics when i get it covered

ramos
06-07-2006, 12:59 PM
if i wrap it in vinyl you wont even see the imperfections. the black paint show the imperfections, but the shape and fit of the pod is pretty good. i'll post more pics when i get it covered

Need to do a lot more sanding brother man, if your gonna vinyl . Imperfections will show through vinyl almost as bad as paint :)

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 01:02 PM
Need to do a lot more sanding brother man, if your gonna vinyl . Imperfections will show through vinyl almost as bad as paint :)


i'll figure something. i ran out of cream hardner so i quit with the bondo. i'm gonna try to find grittier sand paper

AllStar1500bd
06-07-2006, 07:14 PM
Just a few things I noticed going through this thread again...

Did you put any deadener on your doors?

So essentially, the pods are going to be sealed?

Also, what is the wood and how is the piece of wood secured in this picture...

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9972/img02120oj.jpg

yne721
06-07-2006, 08:32 PM
i'll figure something. i ran out of cream hardner so i quit with the bondo. i'm gonna try to find grittier sand paper

the lower the number of sand paper(grittier) the more imperfections there will be.

if you want a smooth 'show finish' kick, you should be doing the last sand with around 800 grit. but 500 would be just fine for your application. also, if it were me, i would prime it before i paint it, because then you can really see any extra scratches or gouges and fill them with bondo before you prime for the second time, then paint.

this is how i would do it(but i'm an automotive painter)

fiberglass
bondo.
sand 150 grit
bondo small cracks and dips
sand 220 grit or so
prime(first coat)
at this point there shouldn't really be any bondo needed, but if so, just wipe the bondo tight, don't leave hills
sand 320 grit
prime(final prime)
sand 500
paint.


just some food for thought, obviously it's your project and you'll do it how you like. but as soon as i get some money and buy my 2 8'' assassins and fiberglass some boxes for them i'll post some pics of the whole process as well.

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 11:17 PM
Just a few things I noticed going through this thread again...

Did you put any deadener on your doors?

So essentially, the pods are going to be sealed?

Also, what is the wood and how is the piece of wood secured in this picture...

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9972/img02120oj.jpg


i put deadener on the plastic door panel. the pods are sealed. the wood is hekd in with screws that can't be seen in the pic. in the lower right hand corner you can see a screw

iceteebone
06-07-2006, 11:35 PM
the lower the number of sand paper(grittier) the more imperfections there will be.

if you want a smooth 'show finish' kick, you should be doing the last sand with around 800 grit. but 500 would be just fine for your application. also, if it were me, i would prime it before i paint it, because then you can really see any extra scratches or gouges and fill them with bondo before you prime for the second time, then paint.

this is how i would do it(but i'm an automotive painter)

fiberglass
bondo.
sand 150 grit
bondo small cracks and dips
sand 220 grit or so
prime(first coat)
at this point there shouldn't really be any bondo needed, but if so, just wipe the bondo tight, don't leave hills
sand 320 grit
prime(final prime)
sand 500
paint.


just some food for thought, obviously it's your project and you'll do it how you like. but as soon as i get some money and buy my 2 8'' assassins and fiberglass some boxes for them i'll post some pics of the whole process as well.


i was thinking about that cause i was realizing i was sanding away the bondo and not really filling in the holes.

James Bang
06-08-2006, 02:16 AM
i don't know if you've already done this or going to, but i suggest putting a good 1/4" layer of soft clay inside the walls. I just did so w/ my kicks and it's gotten much clearer and detailed. less resonance.

yne721
06-08-2006, 02:37 AM
i was thinking about that cause i was realizing i was sanding away the bondo and not really filling in the holes.

well now that you know how, i hope to see the reflection of your camera in the second one :D

ramos
06-08-2006, 07:33 AM
the lower the number of sand paper(grittier) the more imperfections there will be.

if you want a smooth 'show finish' kick, you should be doing the last sand with around 800 grit. but 500 would be just fine for your application. also, if it were me, i would prime it before i paint it, because then you can really see any extra scratches or gouges and fill them with bondo before you prime for the second time, then paint.

this is how i would do it(but i'm an automotive painter)

fiberglass
bondo.
sand 150 grit
bondo small cracks and dips
sand 220 grit or so
prime(first coat)
at this point there shouldn't really be any bondo needed, but if so, just wipe the bondo tight, don't leave hills
sand 320 grit
prime(final prime)
sand 500
paint.


just some food for thought, obviously it's your project and you'll do it how you like. but as soon as i get some money and buy my 2 8'' assassins and fiberglass some boxes for them i'll post some pics of the whole process as well.


I'm with you after the 150. But it really helps to use some 80 grit to sand with first
. Especially the bondo hair. Sand it smooth, then use the filler to fill in the dips. THen start on the filler with 120-150. And go on from there. :)

iceteebone
06-08-2006, 10:37 AM
i don't know if you've already done this or going to, but i suggest putting a good 1/4" layer of soft clay inside the walls. I just did so w/ my kicks and it's gotten much clearer and detailed. less resonance.


i got some spectrum coming today i was gonna shoot inside of the pod

James Bang
06-08-2006, 11:01 AM
sweet, that should have the same effect, and be much easier to apply. it was a ****** applying all that clay into that weird shaped pod.

DarkFox
06-08-2006, 11:18 AM
Are you using a block to sand? Just wondering cause if you just use your hand its gonna sand away all the bondo(even in the cracks) while its soft and leave anything hard behind..

iceteebone
06-08-2006, 11:20 AM
Are you using a block to sand? Just wondering cause if you just use your hand its gonna sand away all the bondo(even in the cracks) while its soft and leave anything hard behind..


electric sander, hand, and block

iceteebone
06-14-2006, 03:14 PM
well finished it. you can see the imperfections but this one fits a lot better and is pretty strong. once y fiberglass skills increase, it'll look a lot better

http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/3474/img02186lf.jpg

Beat_Dominator
06-14-2006, 03:41 PM
Vac. your car out man!

Lookin' better, hows the sound?

iceteebone
06-14-2006, 04:52 PM
Vac. your car out man!

Lookin' better, hows the sound?


don't have my amp hooked up yet. it's hard to keep it clean with a dirt driveway :crap:

MrSwiss
06-14-2006, 06:22 PM
hey tee looks great! personally i would sand that ****** until i could see my face in it but thats just me lol. u should combine the pics a single thread.

this weekend i would like to try to fiberglass a 15" enclosure but it looks like a lot of work hehe

iceteebone
06-14-2006, 07:26 PM
hey tee looks great! personally i would sand that ****** until i could see my face in it but thats just me lol. u should combine the pics a single thread.

this weekend i would like to try to fiberglass a 15" enclosure but it looks like a lot of work hehe


i did make a single thread.