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View Full Version : Fiberglass help. Yes, I read the tutorials.



Finleyville
04-21-2006, 11:54 AM
Anyway...

I am attempting to build dash pods for my Trius' mids. This is the first time I am glassing anything. I read several tutorials and purchased all that was needed.

Everyone says to follow the manufacture's instructions regarding the resin and hardner. 14 drops of hardener per 1 oz of resin in this case. My problem is after I do that with a 8 oz batch of resin to work with, the resin starts to gel on me after about 5 minutes. I thought I had more time! I already wasted about 16 oz of resin/hardener. Should I reduce the amount of hardener to give me more time to lay up?

Plus how do you avoid creating bubbles?

Thanks all!

dkguitarist
04-21-2006, 11:57 AM
use less hardener.

and use a smooth edge object to get rid of any air bubbles (like they do with window tint).

2loud4u
04-21-2006, 12:01 PM
Yes you can adjust the mount of hardner you use.
Really warm out side use less hardner
Cool out use more.

Tip. only mix enough resin that you can work with before it gels


To avoid air bubbles stab the mat or cloth dont just paint it on.
Also if you just slap on alot of resin it will create little air pockets.

ramos
04-21-2006, 12:07 PM
5 minutes is about the norm with polyester in warmer weather. Like was said reduce the ratio by a couple drops.

You can also dab at the mat with a bristle brush to work the bubbles out. Or you can use a good old fiberglass roller. :)

maldecido33
04-21-2006, 12:17 PM
if you don't have a roller, take whatever bristled paint brush you're using. cut the bristles to right at 1 inch long. stab the resin into the mat. don't glob on a ton of resin at once, just enough :-)

ramos
04-21-2006, 12:23 PM
Also if your working on areas that have dips and troughs. Save the low areas for last. The resin from the other areas will run into them. Work that in first, then add a little more if needed. It will keep you from having pools in the corners, which are brittle spots :)

req
04-21-2006, 12:55 PM
also, do yourself a favor, and if you are glassing on an already dried spot, SAND IT DOWN BEFORE YOU LAY MORE GLASS!!!

at LEAST get all the stray hairs and bumps off, or you will end up with TONS of air bubbles and its a huge pain in the ***.

nother tip, try to keep one hand for holding the cup and getting resin on, and one hand for using the brush and placing glass.

nother tip, use chop mat, and tear pieces off in small segments to fit the area you are working with, i usually coat the area im going to work on with a layer of resin, and tear a bunch of small (like 3x3) sections of mat and stick them (overlapping all the edges) and then i get resin and i jab it in unitl its soaked, then i repeat the process omitting the first coat of resin, because its already drenched.

i also do my best to get as many layers down as needed before it dries because it ends up being stronger that way.

vorgath
04-22-2006, 02:12 AM
Use acetone to thin out the resin. Before I added acetone, heck I went through tons of resin, and it was hard to work with too, resin thinned out with acetone will saturate the mat, soak through it, which is what you want.

Psyence
04-22-2006, 02:30 AM
Use acetone to thin out the resin. Before I added acetone, heck I went through tons of resin, and it was hard to work with too, resin thinned out with acetone will saturate the mat, soak through it, which is what you want.

x2

req
04-22-2006, 04:01 AM
not x2

thinning out resin makes it even more more brittle than it already is and not as strong. technically, fiberglass resin is a very brittle material, the cloth in the fleece and the fiberglass cloth is what adds strength - but making the polyester resin even more brittle is not a good idea.

let it soak it up in its own fashion. thats what makes it stronger.

blue93corsica
04-22-2006, 09:26 AM
not x2

thinning out resin makes it even more more brittle than it already is and not as strong. technically, fiberglass resin is a very brittle material, the cloth in the fleece and the fiberglass cloth is what adds strength - but making the polyester resin even more brittle is not a good idea.

let it soak it up in its own fashion. thats what makes it stronger.


x2 on this, there is no need to thin out the resin, resin alone isn't a thick consistancy and can be used perfectly the way it is, no need to thin it out at all

vorgath
04-22-2006, 11:47 AM
Maybe it's a different kind of resin. I know when I've been working on my ramair hood, as well as repairing deep holes in one of our fiberglass boats, the resin isn't really that thin.

Can you over thin it ? Of course, but thinning it out a little bit to make it more workable, not a bad idea.

The mat I'm using reminds one of some kind of dense armour, not real thick but it takes something to soak through it real good.

req
04-22-2006, 02:09 PM
well remember, on very detailed projects, the thicker the glass the harder it is to work with. and dashpods are one of those detailed projects. get some 5 ounce chop mat and tear small pieces off.

use very thin and incredible material (like pantyhose, maybe a little thicker than that) and then put a few layers of glass on (try to do it in one sitting) and then lightly sand it down and bodyfill it. i would defintly cover in vynl if thats what your dash has on it.

do you have any pictures of your dash board and what kind of mids you are planning on putting there and where they are going?