View Full Version : Need ideas to get magnet clearance....

10-21-2002, 01:24 PM
Ok, I'm building a ported box to go behind the seat of my truck for the two L7's. Its 3.5ft^3 after taking away port and woofer displacement. The only problem is that the port(which comes out of the top) goes down in the box so far that the magnets of the subs are going to hit that back board. Could I cut out a square piece of wood and mount the speaker to it, screw through this "spacer board" and into the original box front? If I use screws, wood glue, and silicone would this hold up? Its the only way I can get them to fit. Also does anyone have experience with cutting out the square holes for solo barics, but instead of cutting squares, turning it some and making them look like diamonds? Any difference in sound?

10-22-2002, 12:24 AM
No experience doing that ehre but would look phat as hell


10-22-2002, 05:09 AM
making an mdf spacer held with glue and screws will work or you coul make 1 to fit around the sub and fibreglass it to be curved to fit but it will add a small dit of volume but shouldn't be noticed

Night Pirate
10-22-2002, 08:27 AM
The spacer idea is a good one and will fix the problem as long as you have the room to play with in front of the box. I also think the diamond idea sounds cool.


10-22-2002, 11:00 AM
i had to add a spacer to my box when i went from c-v subs yo the fosgates i have now. idid just what you are talking about, mdf (1/4"), wood glue and screws. been close to a year with some heavy use, lots of picking the box up to show the subs and no air leaks or problems yet. the internal volume gain is minimal, so it shouldn't make a difference, at least for the average guy.

10-22-2002, 01:31 PM
Ok, fiberglass definitly sounds like a great idea to improve the looks. How would I go about doing this though? Do I get the mat, form it to the shape for the spacer and start applying layers of resin to it, on the box itself so it will be bonded to the wood? Can you drill holes in the fiberglass once it is finished? How many layers coatings of resin would I need for it to be strong enough? Give me some ideas. Thanks.

10-22-2002, 02:58 PM
Here's what I would do. I would go ahead and use a 3/4" MDF spacer. Cut it in a circle about 1" larger than the sub. Then mount your sub with the spacer. Take some thin cardboard (the kind cereal boxes are made out of) and make a ring around the sub right against the sub itself. Next take the sub back out. And center the cardboard ring on the spacer and glue it. Mount the spacer ( with the cardboard ring attached) to the box with the same screws and holes to used to mount the sub. Then just use some bondo hair and fill in the void. Fill the area around the cardboard ring so that when the sub is mounted it will be flush with the finished surface. Then taper from there to the enclosure itself. Some sanding, maybe a little filler. And finish the enclosure however you would like .:)

Please excuse my crappy paint skills :D

something like this

The red part is the enclosure
The blue is the spacer.
The pink is the cardboard spacer
The yellow would be the bondo hair.

10-22-2002, 10:02 PM
yea I get what you are saying. Thanks. This weekend there is a competition so I may just have the MDF spacer, but next week I'm planning on using the glass technique. I looked on Alpine's website at their show car. It actually gave a few of their secrets to fiberglassing(using the carpet first then layering matt and resin on top of that) I think I am going to give it a try to improve the looks of my box. Thanks again!

10-24-2002, 10:58 PM
Whats the best way to get out the air bubbles before the fiberglass and mat dries? I'm glassing it tomorrow night, didn't really have another choice in order to get magnet clearance. Thanks.

10-25-2002, 07:31 AM
Originally posted by F150Matt
Whats the best way to get out the air bubbles before the fiberglass and mat dries? I'm glassing it tomorrow night, didn't really have another choice in order to get magnet clearance. Thanks.

A fiberglass roller is the absolute best way. Somtetimes you can brush them out but it's difficult. :)

10-25-2002, 10:49 PM
Well I got the fiberglass cloth layer on and dried, and put on the first layer of mat, I got most of the air bubbles out, I think it is gonna work, I sure hope so, it sure takes a whole hell of a lot of work to get it done, now I see why shops charge so freakin much to do glass...:eek:

10-30-2002, 08:11 PM
Good news, I hookedup the box today, the fiberglass held up fine, only had one or two small airleaks in the seams of the box. I'll fix them soon with some silicone. It hits MUCH harder on some songs than before. I'm assuming thats because those particular songs bass frequencies are close to what the box is tuned for right?

10-31-2002, 07:15 AM
Your just experiencing the difference between ported and sealed enclosures :)

07-23-2005, 01:19 AM
as long as the screws are long enough to go through the spacer and into the box. and ive tried stuff like that with solobarics and it doesnt make any difference in the sound... but its possible to position the subs differently to get the max spl in your car. test with an apl meter and different box positions.

07-23-2005, 01:20 AM
edit ^ test with an spl meter*

07-23-2005, 01:23 AM
dude, old freakin thread

Mr. Opportunist
07-23-2005, 02:30 AM
edit ^ test with an spl meter*
im sure his **** has been built for the last 8 months.

07-23-2005, 02:39 AM
yea well i needed this. hehe im just gonna 3x baffle

07-23-2005, 07:18 PM
ugh i always search for **** and then i end up getting so into the thread that i forget that i have no clue when it was all posted